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Old 04-16-2018, 10:32 PM   #1
trixunlimited
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Default Buying WRX with STI Swap and Work done need help with Issues

Hey everyone I need some help here and I am not exactly sure what is wrong with this car that I am looking to buy.

Car is an 02 wrx with an sti 6 speed swap

It has 3 check engine lights currently 1 for MAF (p0102) 1 for IAT (p0113) and another for Bank 1 sensor 1 O2 sensor (p0031). (I have attached screenshots for reference).

The car also has a "built motor" as it says in the cobb with a 2.5 bottom end and a 2.0 top end.

THE ISSUES OUTSIDE THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT

When you plug the MAF in the car goes to turn off, almost instantly. When you turn the car back on it will run a bit but SUPER rough. I am thinking the car was tuned without the MAF being used on speed density, but then that leads to another issue. When I test drove the car the car gets into boost (showed 15psi on the boost gauge) but the car felt like it was slower than stock. So I am a bit lost as to why this would happen.

Is there an underlying issue within the motor that seems to be bad?

I didnt see any coolant in oil/ or vice versa. Under the oil cap seemed clean with no residue of coolant. And the car ran so smooth without the MAF plugged in it was mind boggling. So I am thinking something else is wrong, but I guess that is why I am here looking for the community to help.

This guy is looking for a response from me by tomorrow, so if anyone can help it is appreciated and I can throw a couple bucks your way on venmo or paypal for help if anything.

I have also attached a video below on youtube for everyone to hear and see. Sorry for the poor sound quality my phone cannot pick up loud sounds well.

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Old 04-16-2018, 10:40 PM   #2
trixunlimited
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Also to note, I did search up my specific issues and I could not find a good answer with the search function.

Any help is again appreciated!
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Old 04-16-2018, 11:15 PM   #3
trixunlimited
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also from separate searches I have found this

"Thanks for the input guys. I found that the hose from the pcv valve to the intake manifold had not been connected. It was very hard to detect. Was tucked under throttle body."

The thread below goes over the O2 sensor Relay location and its importance to the car running properly

https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/sho....php?t=1784439


Still looking for any additional info or help to diagnose this tomorrow
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Old 04-16-2018, 11:55 PM   #4
D-Rodman
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Walk away dude, why buy somebody else’s headache.
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Old 04-17-2018, 12:14 AM   #5
trixunlimited
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Quote:
Originally Posted by D-Rodman View Post
Walk away dude, why buy somebody else’s headache.
when I tell you this car is cheap, it is CHEAP ill message you
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Old 04-17-2018, 09:20 AM   #6
A-man07
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If he wants more than $3K and you aren't prepared to put at least $5K into it then forget it. It looks like a ****box. Much work and money ahead but that doesn't mean it can't be your fun project it's just going to cost some change.
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Old 04-17-2018, 10:03 AM   #7
rtv900
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Quote:
Originally Posted by trixunlimited View Post
when I tell you this car is cheap, it is CHEAP ill message you
ok now I'm curious
just post how much he's asking?
it damn well better be cheap by the looks of that thing and the nightmare operating issues
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Old 04-17-2018, 11:06 AM   #8
berge56
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I'll start with the CEL's.

Okay so for the CEL's, P0102 and P0113 are more than likely related to the MAF being unplugged. Clean it or get a new OEM MAF. You need to have that to drive the car as that is crucial. If that car is speed density tuned I have no idea how they are measuring Air temp as you usually have an aftermarket sensor installed within 12 inches of the throttle body. You also usually have an upgraded omni bar sesnor which is not present on your throttle body either.

The P0031 is a bad front o2 sensor. Buy a new OEM sensor and you should be in business.

Now with that out of the way, I would do compression test before you do anything to get an idea of motor health. The test should come back to each cylinder being 5-10% off from each other and anything over 140 is decent. I would also find out if they had the heads machined to match the quench area of the bigger 2.5l block. I know back in the day people would just run extra thick head gaskets which usually caused the engine to be knock prone as it was a band aid fix.

Like others have said, be careful, and the car better be cheap as you could end up dumping thousands into this car.

And do not drive the car until the MAF is fixed. You could cause damage to the engine. O2 sensor should also be fixed ASAP as well.
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Old 04-17-2018, 09:59 PM   #9
trixunlimited
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Well, I went to go finalize looking at the car today and the guy sold it out from under me.

The car was up for 6k and he confirmed 4500 for me, which to be honest I think was a steal. O well i guess its one less headache I have to deal with.

Thank you Berge56 and others who reached out, it is appreciated and it doesn't go un noticed!
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Old Yesterday, 06:15 AM   #10
rtv900
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Quote:
Originally Posted by trixunlimited View Post
The car was up for 6k and he confirmed 4500 for me, which to be honest I think was a steal.!
that's why when someone says "its CHEAP" you still gotta ask, because "cheap" is way too relative.

Seeing that box of garbage, my definition of 'cheap' would have been $600.
I can't believe that imbecile had the nerve to ask $6000, and worse yet somebody paid close to that, poor guy.

You dodged a bullet whether you know it or not.
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