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Old 03-29-2013, 01:14 AM   #26
Cody
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Member#: 42048
Join Date: Aug 2003
Chapter/Region: BAIC
Location: Sonoma County
Vehicle:
03 WRX Wagon
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dficken View Post
I also have a 2002 wrx wagon with this problem. It's possibly the fob because one is sort of flaky and the other has a jacked up connection where the battery goes. Downside is that I bought a replacement fob but cannot get the car to go into program mode. I even took it to the dealer after I gave up and they couldn't get it into programming mode either. I am not sure if it has to do with me having a protune with the access port... I am going to try and unmarry the access port and try the programming mode things just in case. But if that doesn't work then my only other option would be to replace the remote module in the car (which the dealer thought was the issue but I am not so sure). With all of that said, if I were to just go to best buy and get a remote start kit installed with new fobs, alarm, etc, would that bypass the factory system all together? I figured it would be silly to pay 100 or 200 for new module when that could go towards a new remote start system with new fobs and such. I wasn't sure if that would override current system or piggyback off of it.
Let us know if your successful after unmarrying the AP. My car has had a Protune for years longer than I've had this issue, but it's worth a try.

I can usually get my fobs to program if they aren't being super flaky during programming mode, and when they work, they work fine. However, most of the time, the LED stays on either halway dim or full bright after pushing one of the buttons and I end up just button mashing for a while. If I can push one of the buttons 8 times without the LED acting weird, then it will start working but after a few minutes, it will require a bunch of button mashing to work again. It's super frustrating which is why I just give up every time. Pushing a button 8 times is what you're supposed to do to reinitialize the fob to the car after replacing the fob batteries.

I've tried new batteries in the fobs, and a new control unit in the car, but the fobs are both still flaky and both started acting weird at the same time. I couldn't believe replacing the control unit and remarrying the fobs to the car didn't fix it!

Quote:
Originally Posted by GDA_Matt View Post
If everything fails and you end up getting a new remote, system etc go encore I have it installed in my 04 super reliable and the remote start is awesome if you are MT it will work
How much? This would work with the locks and everything?
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Old 03-07-2014, 09:28 PM   #27
N/A_junkie
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Member#: 99961
Join Date: Nov 2005
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: Columbus, OH/Ashland, KY
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03 Super Obnoxious
Wrx. A rare blue one.

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Well huh...

This started happening just the other day...replaced the battery...still junk the light will stay on until I squeeze the fob body.

Guess it's time for a new fob

Oh yeah...old bump.
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Old 03-25-2014, 12:06 PM   #28
scooby_Larz
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Join Date: May 2007
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Location: Seattle, WA
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2002 RS
BRP

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Old thread with a recent post!

I am running into the same intermittent issue--when I press Unlock/Disarm the light will stay lit (and sometimes dim). I've even tried to get the alarm into Valet Mode so I can access my car without tripping the alarm, but that requires a fully functioning fob.

While not a solution, if I press the button enough times it will eventually operate normally. However, it may require me to push the button 5 times or 50 times.

Simply, is there a solution or is it time for a new fob?
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Old 03-26-2014, 12:38 AM   #29
Cody
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Both my fobs started doing it at the same time and changing the controller under the dash didn't fix it. I gave up and still don't have keyless entry. :|
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Old 04-27-2014, 12:21 AM   #30
SilverSuby891
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I'm having the same problem, 2003 WRX, the LED stays on dim and I've notice as soon as the red LED messes up, with that constant dim light, the remote 'un-marries' itself from the car and will work again after 6 button presses (the procedure for marrying it in my car). I figured it was losing proper connection to the battery (brand new) so I took out the circuit, having read about people finding solder connections on the battery housing broken. I couldn't find any bad solder connections, but when the LED would come on dim, lightly torquing the circuit board with my fingers would make it work right with almost no pressure, lighting fully after pressing buttons. I tried holding the battery down too, but it didn't seem to change much, though like I said the connections looked solid. This leads me to believe there may be a faulty component on the circuit board, so I might just have to buy a new one
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Old 04-27-2014, 04:37 AM   #31
Guzzi 1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ostrowrx View Post
remote might be worn on the inside.
This was my thought as well.

Have you replaced the remote, or borrowed one from someone to see if it works any better? I would be looking more closely at that than the unit under the dash.



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Old 04-28-2014, 10:43 AM   #32
SilverSuby891
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PSM

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It's definitely a worn part on the remote inside, and ive had mine working for 2 days straight now *knock on wood*. Like I said I spent all of Saturday fiddling with the circuit inside. I looked for broken, weak, and cold solder connections, but the circuit looked fine on every connection. Like I said in my previous post the circuit would work when I torqued the board one way or another, but malfunction on occasion if I just pressed the button not holding it some special way.

So, I went on to put spacers in random places where the circuit was held down by the cover (under the small screws, where the little + shaped supports are on the top, etc...) it always worked for a few times leaving the car and coming back, but always malfunctioned again after a few times (keeping the fob in my pocket to simulate going to work, running errands, etc...) this was frustrating to say the least because every time I thought I fixed it, that dim constant light would come on meaning it just malfunctioned again and unmarried itself from my car. So this is the point where I was writing my first post, having almost given up.

HERE'S HOW I FINALLY FIXED MINE
Sunday morning I had it apart one last time, and it had that dim constant red LED again. I started prodding at components with the plastic tip of a led pencil to see if any consistently made the dim light turn off. Battery connections: nothing consistent, the LED itself: didn't do anything, random other components: nothing that pushing on the board itself wouldn't have caused anyway. Then I pushed on the large rectangular black Alpine chip (largest on the board) and it turned off, and it seemed to do so very consistently.
So I took a random plastic piece out of the bottom of my toolbox, dusted it off and put it on top of that chip, then put the cover on making sure the plastic piece was thick enough that it became wedged between the chip and the cover, in turn pushing the chip once the cover was screwed in place. I could see the cover bend slightly as I tightened the screws so I knew the piece was wedged there keeping pressure on the chip. Since doing this I have yet to see the dim light, and it has been working consistently for 2 full days out and about the town ( I've probably gone at least 30 places and left my car and come back) and I would know if it malfunctioned even once since this would unmarry it from my car requiring me to press it 6 times before it would work.

Apologies for the excessively long post, but I'm hoping this will help save someone the time it takes to troubleshoot a finicky circuit
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Old 09-15-2019, 04:21 PM   #33
mrgardiner
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Member#: 495957
Join Date: Jan 2019
Thumbs up Fix really works! pushing on Alpine chip in keyfob 2004 STI impreza

Thank you so much for sharing your trouble shooting!

I went through the tedious process of replacing battery, repairing the remote to car, inspecting remote circuit board both sides. The ONLY to fix it was adding a small cardboard wedge on top of the alpine chip on the remote circuit board. Searching for the dim light remote found this thread. Just in-case, here are the EXACT repairing instructions as well.

1. Open the drivers door, sit in drivers seat.
2. Close drivers door.
3. Put key in ignition and cycle to on 10 times within 15 seconds. (DO NOT remove till Step 7!).
4. Horn beeps once.
5. Within 45 seconds open drivers door, close drivers door, push any button on the fob. Horn beeps twice.
6. Repeat #5 for any other fobs up to four.
7. Remove key from ignition. Horn beeps three times.

Thank you again. It has been a few years since posted.
-Monterey

Quote:
Originally Posted by SilverSuby891 View Post
It's definitely a worn part on the remote inside, and ive had mine working for 2 days straight now *knock on wood*. Like I said I spent all of Saturday fiddling with the circuit inside. I looked for broken, weak, and cold solder connections, but the circuit looked fine on every connection. Like I said in my previous post the circuit would work when I torqued the board one way or another, but malfunction on occasion if I just pressed the button not holding it some special way.

So, I went on to put spacers in random places where the circuit was held down by the cover (under the small screws, where the little + shaped supports are on the top, etc...) it always worked for a few times leaving the car and coming back, but always malfunctioned again after a few times (keeping the fob in my pocket to simulate going to work, running errands, etc...) this was frustrating to say the least because every time I thought I fixed it, that dim constant light would come on meaning it just malfunctioned again and unmarried itself from my car. So this is the point where I was writing my first post, having almost given up.

HERE'S HOW I FINALLY FIXED MINE
Sunday morning I had it apart one last time, and it had that dim constant red LED again. I started prodding at components with the plastic tip of a led pencil to see if any consistently made the dim light turn off. Battery connections: nothing consistent, the LED itself: didn't do anything, random other components: nothing that pushing on the board itself wouldn't have caused anyway. Then I pushed on the large rectangular black Alpine chip (largest on the board) and it turned off, and it seemed to do so very consistently.
So I took a random plastic piece out of the bottom of my toolbox, dusted it off and put it on top of that chip, then put the cover on making sure the plastic piece was thick enough that it became wedged between the chip and the cover, in turn pushing the chip once the cover was screwed in place. I could see the cover bend slightly as I tightened the screws so I knew the piece was wedged there keeping pressure on the chip. Since doing this I have yet to see the dim light, and it has been working consistently for 2 full days out and about the town ( I've probably gone at least 30 places and left my car and come back) and I would know if it malfunctioned even once since this would unmarry it from my car requiring me to press it 6 times before it would work.

Apologies for the excessively long post, but I'm hoping this will help save someone the time it takes to troubleshoot a finicky circuit
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Old 09-15-2019, 05:00 PM   #34
Ldg1017
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Member#: 453087
Join Date: Aug 2016
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by SilverSuby891 View Post
It's definitely a worn part on the remote inside, and ive had mine working for 2 days straight now *knock on wood*. Like I said I spent all of Saturday fiddling with the circuit inside. I looked for broken, weak, and cold solder connections, but the circuit looked fine on every connection. Like I said in my previous post the circuit would work when I torqued the board one way or another, but malfunction on occasion if I just pressed the button not holding it some special way.

So, I went on to put spacers in random places where the circuit was held down by the cover (under the small screws, where the little + shaped supports are on the top, etc...) it always worked for a few times leaving the car and coming back, but always malfunctioned again after a few times (keeping the fob in my pocket to simulate going to work, running errands, etc...) this was frustrating to say the least because every time I thought I fixed it, that dim constant light would come on meaning it just malfunctioned again and unmarried itself from my car. So this is the point where I was writing my first post, having almost given up.

HERE'S HOW I FINALLY FIXED MINE
Sunday morning I had it apart one last time, and it had that dim constant red LED again. I started prodding at components with the plastic tip of a led pencil to see if any consistently made the dim light turn off. Battery connections: nothing consistent, the LED itself: didn't do anything, random other components: nothing that pushing on the board itself wouldn't have caused anyway. Then I pushed on the large rectangular black Alpine chip (largest on the board) and it turned off, and it seemed to do so very consistently.
So I took a random plastic piece out of the bottom of my toolbox, dusted it off and put it on top of that chip, then put the cover on making sure the plastic piece was thick enough that it became wedged between the chip and the cover, in turn pushing the chip once the cover was screwed in place. I could see the cover bend slightly as I tightened the screws so I knew the piece was wedged there keeping pressure on the chip. Since doing this I have yet to see the dim light, and it has been working consistently for 2 full days out and about the town ( I've probably gone at least 30 places and left my car and come back) and I would know if it malfunctioned even once since this would unmarry it from my car requiring me to press it 6 times before it would work.

Apologies for the excessively long post, but I'm hoping this will help save someone the time it takes to troubleshoot a finicky circuit
Thanks so much this has fixed my remote which was driving me insane!!
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Old 03-30-2021, 07:28 PM   #35
Ant
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Member#: 33999
Join Date: Mar 2003
Chapter/Region: NWIC
Location: Seattle, WA
Vehicle:
2005 9-2x Aero MT
Black

Cool

Quote:
Originally Posted by mrgardiner View Post
Thank you so much for sharing your trouble shooting!

I went through the tedious process of replacing battery, repairing the remote to car, inspecting remote circuit board both sides. The ONLY to fix it was adding a small cardboard wedge on top of the alpine chip on the remote circuit board. Searching for the dim light remote found this thread. Just in-case, here are the EXACT repairing instructions as well.

1. Open the drivers door, sit in drivers seat.
2. Close drivers door.
3. Put key in ignition and cycle to on 10 times within 15 seconds. (DO NOT remove till Step 7!).
4. Horn beeps once.
5. Within 45 seconds open drivers door, close drivers door, push any button on the fob. Horn beeps twice.
6. Repeat #5 for any other fobs up to four.
7. Remove key from ignition. Horn beeps three times.

Thank you again. It has been a few years since posted.
-Monterey
I just did this on my 2005 Saab 9-2-x Aero, and it worked! Strangely enough, bot of my remotes started doing the exact same thing at around the same time, so I didn't think it was the remotes that were the problem, but it definitely was.

I don't think I've posted here in about 15 years. Weird
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