My 04 WRX STi slow build thread - Page 4

anirban0 · 11-05-2019, 10:55 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dash_Martino

Hey man thanks! Yeah I used a jug of distilled water just to be on the safe side. I'm sure the short amount of time you have garden hose water in your heater core wouldn't cause any big problems but I was being extra cautious. Good luck with your build!

just to clarify, you literally just poured it down into the core right? like through a funnel and the inlet hose? I was thinking you somehow were able to pressurize the water into it. I guess if you keep pouring enough water into the inlet hose it will start coming out the outlet? thanks again and yah what a clean build! did you actually replace all the coolant/oil/pcv/fuel/vacuum hoses? or did everything just look that good on your car?

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Dash_Martino · 11-05-2019, 08:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by anirban0

just to clarify, you literally just poured it down into the core right? like through a funnel and the inlet hose?

- Yes. The pressure of the water seemed to just push it through the core. Your old coolant should push out followed by eventually clean water. If that doesn't work I think you can borrow a flush hose nozzle from autozone's loan a tool program.

Quote:

Originally Posted by anirban0

did you actually replace all the coolant/oil/pcv/fuel/vacuum hoses? or did everything just look that good on your car?

- I replaced a descent chunk of it. When I bought the air oil separator most of the PCV hoses got replaced anyway. A descent chunk of the coolant hoses got replaced, some of which I bought from subaru because they had odd bends in them, and some I just bought coolant hose from autozone. Fuel hoses under the intake manifold got replaced, the fuel hoses from the fire wall to the top of the intake manifold were good so I didn't replace them. I may need to get some evap hoses in the back end of the car as some days I smell some fuel vapors.
It's best to take your time and replace what you can while you have access to it. Auto part stores sell all different size hoses and you can buy what you need and just replace as you go through different steps.

wheresJerZ · 11-05-2019, 10:13 PM

Man those little details are beautiful. Can’t wait till I manage to pick up my own Subaru to work on.

Dash_Martino · 11-10-2019, 06:26 PM

A little update. Car is doing well, 500 mi completed since first fire-up. A few minor hiccups, now that it's cold, some of the clamps I originally tightened loosened on my coolant hoses creating small leaks. Had to tighten them up.

Also, I've been following my tuner's recommended oil change intervals. Change at first startup, then 100 mi, then 250, 500, and then 1000. At the 100 and 250 mi marks, I had maybe 0.25 to 0.5 qt low. Just changed the oil again today at 500 mi.
Not a single drop burned or lost. 4.5 qts in, 4.5 qts out.
What a good feeling!
https://i.imgur.com/v8TK9Qt.jpg

anirban0 · 11-12-2019, 10:23 AM

So glad to hear that! my engine bay will look exactly like yours except for the brand new alternator which I was wondering why did you get a new alternator? My rallyspec block is back so I am about to put my heads back on cant wait to get to where you are. I have questions about your driving style for your break-in, seems like your break in was perfect due to no oil loss.

JDMJNKY · 11-15-2019, 12:42 AM

Love the resto maintenance sir, keep up the great work.

Dash_Martino · 11-15-2019, 06:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by anirban0

So glad to hear that! my engine bay will look exactly like yours except for the brand new alternator which I was wondering why did you get a new alternator? My rallyspec block is back so I am about to put my heads back on cant wait to get to where you are. I have questions about your driving style for your break-in, seems like your break in was perfect due to no oil loss.

I got a new alternator just because the car was running on the original alternator and figured for around $130 bucks it wasn't a bad idea to replace. I'm pretty sure this is the one I picked up:
https://www.maniacelectricmotors.com/11058.html

As for my break in, I kept it under about 4.5K RPMs. I never went wide open throttle but I'd do a little accelerating here and there, careful not to go overboard on the boost. Everything I read said that engine braking is a good way to seal the rings, and so far that seems to be true. Lots of hills in my area so I can easily do that. It seems if you make the motor work hard without going overboard you get a good break in,

Dash_Martino · 11-15-2019, 06:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by anirban0

So glad to hear that! my engine bay will look exactly like yours except for the brand new alternator which I was wondering why did you get a new alternator? My rallyspec block is back so I am about to put my heads back on cant wait to get to where you are. I have questions about your driving style for your break-in, seems like your break in was perfect due to no oil loss.

I got a new alternator just because the car was running on the original alternator and figured for around $130 bucks it wasn't a bad idea to replace. I'm pretty sure this is the one I picked up:
https://www.maniacelectricmotors.com/11058.html

As for my break in, I kept it under about 4.5K RPMs. I never went wide open throttle but I'd do a little accelerating here and there, careful not to go overboard on the boost. Everything I read said that engine braking is a good way to seal the rings, and so far that seems to be true. Lots of hills in my area so I can easily do that. It seems if you make the motor work hard without going overboard you get a good break in.

Wfosti35 · 11-21-2019, 04:51 PM

Awesome write up! I still have my 04 sti, took delivery in August of 03. She currently has around 47k on the clock but has been sitting since 13 when I got my raptor. I only put 1 1/2 winters on her in upstate ny, always got a $500 pos and prayed it would last the winter. I***8217;m thinking of pulling her out this spring after doing a water pump/pulleys and radiator. It also needs a clutch. Thank you for taking time to do an excellent write up!! It will definitely help a bunch of us here!!!

Dash_Martino · 11-21-2019, 10:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by anirban0

So glad to hear that! my engine bay will look exactly like yours except for the brand new alternator which I was wondering why did you get a new alternator? My rallyspec block is back so I am about to put my heads back on cant wait to get to where you are. I have questions about your driving style for your break-in, seems like your break in was perfect due to no oil loss.

Everything else was getting replaced so I figured why not an alternator too. Picked it up from maniac motors:
https://www.maniacelectricmotors.com/11058.html

As for the break in, I used a lot of engine braking up and down hills. A few spirited accelerations but no WOT or over 4.5K or heavy boost. It seems like if you make your engine work hard without punishing it you get good results! So avoid babying it, but avoid killing it.

Dash_Martino · 07-04-2020, 09:42 PM

Update time!

Passed the 1000 mi break in and had a few spirited runs to the redline. The car pulls just as well as it did before, if not better, very happy with the motor build and install! Will probably invest in a good re-tune just to be on the safe side before I really romp on it.

Last year when I took the car to get inspected, the shop told me that I would soon need new struts, so I got some new KYB excels:

Used stock 04 WRX springs (painted them with some red paint just to clean them up.) Roads are a little rough around here and I'd prefer a smoother ride. Also got new Group N top hats.

Dash_Martino · 07-04-2020, 09:49 PM

Unfortunately, the more I dug into the front suspension, the more I realized that all the parts are 15-16 years old. Ball joints are bad, so are tie rod ends, as well as my passenger side axles and bushings. So I decided I'd take my time and work my way through most of the wear items in my front suspension.

New tie rod ends:

Decided to get new Group N STi Front Lower Control Arm Rear Bushings. I didn't really want to alter the stock suspension with the Whiteline kit, so I went with the Group Ns.

Next up: Whiteline Lower Inner Front Bushings for my control arms.

Dash_Martino · 07-05-2020, 08:59 PM

So I installed the whiteline bushings in my control arm and tried to press my control arm back in, but the new bushings wont squeeze in between the subframe. So I got some allthread and a few nuts and some washers. I used the nuts and the all thread to expand the joint where the control arm squeezes in.

Things were still tight so I used the jack from the trunk to help squeeze it in.

Now onto my axle nut, which so far has broken two breaker bars.

Dash_Martino · 07-12-2020, 06:01 PM

Well I got my axle nut off!

After snapping 2 1/2 in drive breaker bars, I got a 3/4 inch drive from Harbor Freight, a 32 mm 1-inch drive impact socket, a 3/4-1in adapter, a 4 foot piece of pipe, and gave it hell.
I had to grind the socket down to get it to fit inside the hub so it could grab the nut:

Next chance I get, Ill get the car back in the air and get the axle off.

Dash_Martino · 07-26-2020, 06:13 PM

Got the axle out relatively easy. After hearing horror stories about remanufactured and auto-shop axles, I decided to re-boot the oem axle. It's really not too bad of a job.
Started the rebuild process using oem subaru boot:

The trickiest part of the whole re-booting was keeping the little ball bearings in place when sliding the boot back on.

Finished product:

Dash_Martino · 07-26-2020, 06:17 PM

While working on removing the axle I noticed a little oil leak on the cross member. After looking into it, it seemed to be coming from the oil return line from the turbo. It seems this is really common on turbo subarus. Since the axle was out and I had more freedom to move around and work, I decided to take out the turbo and work on an aftermarket return line setup:

I bought Torque Solution's kit with an AN fitting.

Dash_Martino · 08-01-2020, 09:28 AM

With the turbo out, I decided now was a good time to upgrade the turbo oil / AVCS line on the passenger side.
I bought the torque solutions kit. Installing the line is relatively straightforward

HOWEVER!

Removing the old AVCS / Turbo oil line is tough. I thought I would have to go through the hassle of removing the intake manifold. Thankfully, with some patience, cursing, twisting, and pulling, I was able to slide the old oil line out.
Here's some tips if you're doing the job:

-The entire hard line is held in place with one bolt buried underneath the turbo inlet. To be able to loosen it, sneak a ratcheting box wrench in underneath the turbo inlet, approaching from the back side of the motor. With a flashlight, you can see the bolt through some narrow spaces in the top of the intake manifold. Once you seat the wrench on top of the bolt, you can ratchet it off. I used a screwdriver to help turn the bolt when the bolt got too loose for the wrench to work.

-It's best to cut the line at the front of the motor and the back so you don't have the loops still on the line where they attach to the banjo bolts, giving you more wiggle room to take out the entire line.

-Once the mounting bolt is off and you have the line cut at both ends, go to the front of the motor. Push the remaining line underneath the crossover pipe, which may require a punch or screwdriver. From there, it's easier to wiggle the line out through the back side of the motor.

Hope this helps anyone who wants to take off this line without going through removing the intake manifold.

Next up, will re-do my passenger side axle seal, then start putting on the up pipe.

Dash_Martino · 08-16-2020, 05:45 PM

Up-pipe reinstalled. I used a regular uppipe to headers gasket and it didn't seal perfectly, so I bought Grimmspeed's Double Thick Up-Pipe to Headers Gakset:

This product is great. The up-pipe sealed perfectly. I ran a smoke test and no leaks!

Dash_Martino · 08-16-2020, 05:48 PM

Also installed the Get a Dom Tune Cylinder 4 Cooling Mod:

Definitely recommend a 12 mm socket with a breaker bar to get out the plug in the cylinder head. Also, even if you have the coolant drained, be prepared for some spillage when you take off the heater core line.
It's best to do this mod from under the car, much more room.

Next up: plumbing the new leak-proof and easier to manage oil return line for the turbo.

Dash_Martino · 09-20-2020, 09:17 PM

So after screwing around for almost a month with different lines and fittings, I finally finished my custom beefed-up turbo return line.

For the line itself, I used 3/4 in fuel line:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Surrounded by fire sleeve:
https://www.amazon.com/Hiwow-Sleeve-...omotive&sr=1-5

For the oil drain from the turbo:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Billet-Alum...72.m2749.l2649

Dash_Martino · 09-20-2020, 09:21 PM

Installed:

For the AN fitting:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Plugged into this fitting:

https://www.rallysportdirect.com/par...hoCTqEQAvD_BwE

Altogether I'd recommend using the stock drain with maybe a stronger rubber line with stronger clamps, as this set up was a little overkill. A lot of people have said it's hard to put an AN return line in for the stock turbo since there's not much room, and yes, they're quite right. Hoping this stays leak proof and was worth all the hard work.

Next up, plugging the axle back in.

Dash_Martino · 01-23-2021, 11:35 AM

While I have the car off the ground, working on it, I figured I would rebuild my leaking power steering pump.

I used mostly this thread as my guide:

https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/sho....php?t=2127419

I was able to get the pump apart, but I quickly learned some painful lessons:

1. The metal that the pump is made out of is VERY SOFT. This includes the spindle. Most of the bolts on the pump are on very tight, and on my first go-around, I put the pump in a vise. BE VERY CAREFUL IF YOU DO SO. Too much pressure will warp the metal and make it difficult to seal up the parts when putting them back together. When hammering out the spindle, USE A PUNCH and place it in the dimple on either end of the spindle. HAMMERING THE SPINDLE TOO HARD WILL WARP IT AND MAKE IT IMPOSSIBLE TO RE-SEAT OR PUT THE PULLEY BACK ON. Sorry for the all caps, but I hope it helps someone make the same mistakes I did.

2. Because of this I bought a second power steering pump to disassemble and re assemble because I warped the body and the spindle. Lesson learned.

Dash_Martino · 01-23-2021, 02:54 PM

Here is a quick visual reference for the new O-ring sizes and where they go on the pump. The original thread has imgur links so I wanted to make a good reference for anyone redoing their pump. I used the FEP encapsulated for extra security.

This is the ring behind the Allen bolt at the top of the pump

This is the fitting that connects between the hi-pressure line and the pump. Added a copper crush washer for extra security.

This is inside the body of the pump. When reinstalled, this piece will face towards the front of the car or the pulley.

Another o-ring for this part inside the pump

I bought this oil seal for the inside of the pump.

Will update as I make progress.

Dash_Martino · 01-29-2021, 02:47 PM

Oil Seal pressed in. I was able to press it in with my thumbs, used a little bit of assembly lube to get it to slide in.

The -13 o-ring goes on the sensor on the back of the pump. However, FEP encapsulated orings are very stiff and don't have the flexibility that Buna-N's do, and it makes it very hard to slide onto the sensor. I slid the -13 down the shaft of a socket extension to the part where it flares out, very slightly stretching it.

-13 FEP encapsulated oring on the sensor after stretching.

-15 for the top ring on the back of the pump body.

Dash_Martino · 01-30-2021, 01:23 PM

So as you start to put the metal rings into the center of the body, be careful. There are two extremely tiny plastic guide pieces on the top of one of the guide rings. Inset them into the groove slowly and carefully. Don't break them like I did, it seems impossible to get a part number for them. Luckily I had a backup from my spare pump.

-14 on the 19 mm spring bolt

-37 for the o-ring around the back half of the pump. Be sure to stretch it out and seat it well.

11-10-2019, 06:26 PM	#79
Dash_Martino Scooby Specialist Member#: 78728 Join Date: Jan 2005 Chapter/Region: Tri-State Location: Jim Chunk, PA Vehicle: 04 STi PSM	A little update. Car is doing well, 500 mi completed since first fire-up. A few minor hiccups, now that it's cold, some of the clamps I originally tightened loosened on my coolant hoses creating small leaks. Had to tighten them up. Also, I've been following my tuner's recommended oil change intervals. Change at first startup, then 100 mi, then 250, 500, and then 1000. At the 100 and 250 mi marks, I had maybe 0.25 to 0.5 qt low. Just changed the oil again today at 500 mi. Not a single drop burned or lost. 4.5 qts in, 4.5 qts out. What a good feeling! https://i.imgur.com/v8TK9Qt.jpg Last edited by Dash_Martino; 07-04-2020 at 09:51 PM.

01-23-2021, 11:35 AM	#97
Dash_Martino Scooby Specialist Member#: 78728 Join Date: Jan 2005 Chapter/Region: Tri-State Location: Jim Chunk, PA Vehicle: 04 STi PSM	While I have the car off the ground, working on it, I figured I would rebuild my leaking power steering pump. I used mostly this thread as my guide: https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/sho....php?t=2127419 I was able to get the pump apart, but I quickly learned some painful lessons: 1. The metal that the pump is made out of is VERY SOFT. This includes the spindle. Most of the bolts on the pump are on very tight, and on my first go-around, I put the pump in a vise. BE VERY CAREFUL IF YOU DO SO. Too much pressure will warp the metal and make it difficult to seal up the parts when putting them back together. When hammering out the spindle, USE A PUNCH and place it in the dimple on either end of the spindle. HAMMERING THE SPINDLE TOO HARD WILL WARP IT AND MAKE IT IMPOSSIBLE TO RE-SEAT OR PUT THE PULLEY BACK ON. Sorry for the all caps, but I hope it helps someone make the same mistakes I did. 2. Because of this I bought a second power steering pump to disassemble and re assemble because I warped the body and the spindle. Lesson learned. Last edited by Dash_Martino; 01-23-2021 at 02:58 PM.

01-23-2021, 02:54 PM	#98
Dash_Martino Scooby Specialist Member#: 78728 Join Date: Jan 2005 Chapter/Region: Tri-State Location: Jim Chunk, PA Vehicle: 04 STi PSM	Here is a quick visual reference for the new O-ring sizes and where they go on the pump. The original thread has imgur links so I wanted to make a good reference for anyone redoing their pump. I used the FEP encapsulated for extra security. This is the ring behind the Allen bolt at the top of the pump This is the fitting that connects between the hi-pressure line and the pump. Added a copper crush washer for extra security. This is inside the body of the pump. When reinstalled, this piece will face towards the front of the car or the pulley. Another o-ring for this part inside the pump I bought this oil seal for the inside of the pump. Will update as I make progress. Last edited by Dash_Martino; 01-23-2021 at 03:02 PM.

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11-05-2019, 10:13 PM	#78
wheresJerZ Scooby Newbie Member#: 506109 Join Date: Sep 2019	Man those little details are beautiful. Can’t wait till I manage to pick up my own Subaru to work on.

11-12-2019, 10:23 AM	#80
anirban0 Scooby Newbie Member#: 334390 Join Date: Oct 2012 Chapter/Region: TXIC Vehicle: 2005 STI WRB	So glad to hear that! my engine bay will look exactly like yours except for the brand new alternator which I was wondering why did you get a new alternator? My rallyspec block is back so I am about to put my heads back on cant wait to get to where you are. I have questions about your driving style for your break-in, seems like your break in was perfect due to no oil loss.

11-15-2019, 12:42 AM	#81
JDMJNKY Scooby Specialist Member#: 253498 Join Date: Jul 2010 Chapter/Region: SCIC Location: sOuL-CaLiFoRnIa Vehicle: 02 RSTI MURK'D	Love the resto maintenance sir, keep up the great work.

11-21-2019, 04:51 PM	#84
Wfosti35 Scooby Newbie Member#: 411914 Join Date: Jan 2015 Location: Syracuse Vehicle: 2004 Sti Black	Awesome write up! I still have my 04 sti, took delivery in August of 03. She currently has around 47k on the clock but has been sitting since 13 when I got my raptor. I only put 1 1/2 winters on her in upstate ny, always got a $500 pos and prayed it would last the winter. I***8217;m thinking of pulling her out this spring after doing a water pump/pulleys and radiator. It also needs a clutch. Thank you for taking time to do an excellent write up!! It will definitely help a bunch of us here!!!

07-04-2020, 09:42 PM	#86
Dash_Martino Scooby Specialist Member#: 78728 Join Date: Jan 2005 Chapter/Region: Tri-State Location: Jim Chunk, PA Vehicle: 04 STi PSM	Update time! Passed the 1000 mi break in and had a few spirited runs to the redline. The car pulls just as well as it did before, if not better, very happy with the motor build and install! Will probably invest in a good re-tune just to be on the safe side before I really romp on it. Last year when I took the car to get inspected, the shop told me that I would soon need new struts, so I got some new KYB excels: Used stock 04 WRX springs (painted them with some red paint just to clean them up.) Roads are a little rough around here and I'd prefer a smoother ride. Also got new Group N top hats.

07-04-2020, 09:49 PM	#87
Dash_Martino Scooby Specialist Member#: 78728 Join Date: Jan 2005 Chapter/Region: Tri-State Location: Jim Chunk, PA Vehicle: 04 STi PSM	Unfortunately, the more I dug into the front suspension, the more I realized that all the parts are 15-16 years old. Ball joints are bad, so are tie rod ends, as well as my passenger side axles and bushings. So I decided I'd take my time and work my way through most of the wear items in my front suspension. New tie rod ends: Decided to get new Group N STi Front Lower Control Arm Rear Bushings. I didn't really want to alter the stock suspension with the Whiteline kit, so I went with the Group Ns. Next up: Whiteline Lower Inner Front Bushings for my control arms.

07-05-2020, 08:59 PM	#88
Dash_Martino Scooby Specialist Member#: 78728 Join Date: Jan 2005 Chapter/Region: Tri-State Location: Jim Chunk, PA Vehicle: 04 STi PSM	So I installed the whiteline bushings in my control arm and tried to press my control arm back in, but the new bushings wont squeeze in between the subframe. So I got some allthread and a few nuts and some washers. I used the nuts and the all thread to expand the joint where the control arm squeezes in. Things were still tight so I used the jack from the trunk to help squeeze it in. Now onto my axle nut, which so far has broken two breaker bars.

07-12-2020, 06:01 PM	#89
Dash_Martino Scooby Specialist Member#: 78728 Join Date: Jan 2005 Chapter/Region: Tri-State Location: Jim Chunk, PA Vehicle: 04 STi PSM	Well I got my axle nut off! After snapping 2 1/2 in drive breaker bars, I got a 3/4 inch drive from Harbor Freight, a 32 mm 1-inch drive impact socket, a 3/4-1in adapter, a 4 foot piece of pipe, and gave it hell. I had to grind the socket down to get it to fit inside the hub so it could grab the nut: Next chance I get, Ill get the car back in the air and get the axle off.

07-26-2020, 06:13 PM	#90
Dash_Martino Scooby Specialist Member#: 78728 Join Date: Jan 2005 Chapter/Region: Tri-State Location: Jim Chunk, PA Vehicle: 04 STi PSM	Got the axle out relatively easy. After hearing horror stories about remanufactured and auto-shop axles, I decided to re-boot the oem axle. It's really not too bad of a job. Started the rebuild process using oem subaru boot: The trickiest part of the whole re-booting was keeping the little ball bearings in place when sliding the boot back on. Finished product:

07-26-2020, 06:17 PM	#91
Dash_Martino Scooby Specialist Member#: 78728 Join Date: Jan 2005 Chapter/Region: Tri-State Location: Jim Chunk, PA Vehicle: 04 STi PSM	While working on removing the axle I noticed a little oil leak on the cross member. After looking into it, it seemed to be coming from the oil return line from the turbo. It seems this is really common on turbo subarus. Since the axle was out and I had more freedom to move around and work, I decided to take out the turbo and work on an aftermarket return line setup: I bought Torque Solution's kit with an AN fitting.

08-01-2020, 09:28 AM	#92
Dash_Martino Scooby Specialist Member#: 78728 Join Date: Jan 2005 Chapter/Region: Tri-State Location: Jim Chunk, PA Vehicle: 04 STi PSM	With the turbo out, I decided now was a good time to upgrade the turbo oil / AVCS line on the passenger side. I bought the torque solutions kit. Installing the line is relatively straightforward HOWEVER! Removing the old AVCS / Turbo oil line is tough. I thought I would have to go through the hassle of removing the intake manifold. Thankfully, with some patience, cursing, twisting, and pulling, I was able to slide the old oil line out. Here's some tips if you're doing the job: -The entire hard line is held in place with one bolt buried underneath the turbo inlet. To be able to loosen it, sneak a ratcheting box wrench in underneath the turbo inlet, approaching from the back side of the motor. With a flashlight, you can see the bolt through some narrow spaces in the top of the intake manifold. Once you seat the wrench on top of the bolt, you can ratchet it off. I used a screwdriver to help turn the bolt when the bolt got too loose for the wrench to work. -It's best to cut the line at the front of the motor and the back so you don't have the loops still on the line where they attach to the banjo bolts, giving you more wiggle room to take out the entire line. -Once the mounting bolt is off and you have the line cut at both ends, go to the front of the motor. Push the remaining line underneath the crossover pipe, which may require a punch or screwdriver. From there, it's easier to wiggle the line out through the back side of the motor. Hope this helps anyone who wants to take off this line without going through removing the intake manifold. Next up, will re-do my passenger side axle seal, then start putting on the up pipe.

08-16-2020, 05:45 PM	#93
Dash_Martino Scooby Specialist Member#: 78728 Join Date: Jan 2005 Chapter/Region: Tri-State Location: Jim Chunk, PA Vehicle: 04 STi PSM	Up-pipe reinstalled. I used a regular uppipe to headers gasket and it didn't seal perfectly, so I bought Grimmspeed's Double Thick Up-Pipe to Headers Gakset: This product is great. The up-pipe sealed perfectly. I ran a smoke test and no leaks!

08-16-2020, 05:48 PM	#94
Dash_Martino Scooby Specialist Member#: 78728 Join Date: Jan 2005 Chapter/Region: Tri-State Location: Jim Chunk, PA Vehicle: 04 STi PSM	Also installed the Get a Dom Tune Cylinder 4 Cooling Mod: Definitely recommend a 12 mm socket with a breaker bar to get out the plug in the cylinder head. Also, even if you have the coolant drained, be prepared for some spillage when you take off the heater core line. It's best to do this mod from under the car, much more room. Next up: plumbing the new leak-proof and easier to manage oil return line for the turbo.

09-20-2020, 09:17 PM	#95
Dash_Martino Scooby Specialist Member#: 78728 Join Date: Jan 2005 Chapter/Region: Tri-State Location: Jim Chunk, PA Vehicle: 04 STi PSM	So after screwing around for almost a month with different lines and fittings, I finally finished my custom beefed-up turbo return line. For the line itself, I used 3/4 in fuel line: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Surrounded by fire sleeve: https://www.amazon.com/Hiwow-Sleeve-...omotive&sr=1-5 For the oil drain from the turbo: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Billet-Alum...72.m2749.l2649

09-20-2020, 09:21 PM	#96
Dash_Martino Scooby Specialist Member#: 78728 Join Date: Jan 2005 Chapter/Region: Tri-State Location: Jim Chunk, PA Vehicle: 04 STi PSM	Installed: For the AN fitting: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Plugged into this fitting: https://www.rallysportdirect.com/par...hoCTqEQAvD_BwE Altogether I'd recommend using the stock drain with maybe a stronger rubber line with stronger clamps, as this set up was a little overkill. A lot of people have said it's hard to put an AN return line in for the stock turbo since there's not much room, and yes, they're quite right. Hoping this stays leak proof and was worth all the hard work. Next up, plugging the axle back in.

01-29-2021, 02:47 PM	#99
Dash_Martino Scooby Specialist Member#: 78728 Join Date: Jan 2005 Chapter/Region: Tri-State Location: Jim Chunk, PA Vehicle: 04 STi PSM	Oil Seal pressed in. I was able to press it in with my thumbs, used a little bit of assembly lube to get it to slide in. The -13 o-ring goes on the sensor on the back of the pump. However, FEP encapsulated orings are very stiff and don't have the flexibility that Buna-N's do, and it makes it very hard to slide onto the sensor. I slid the -13 down the shaft of a socket extension to the part where it flares out, very slightly stretching it. -13 FEP encapsulated oring on the sensor after stretching. -15 for the top ring on the back of the pump body.

01-30-2021, 01:23 PM	#100
Dash_Martino Scooby Specialist Member#: 78728 Join Date: Jan 2005 Chapter/Region: Tri-State Location: Jim Chunk, PA Vehicle: 04 STi PSM	So as you start to put the metal rings into the center of the body, be careful. There are two extremely tiny plastic guide pieces on the top of one of the guide rings. Inset them into the groove slowly and carefully. Don't break them like I did, it seems impossible to get a part number for them. Luckily I had a backup from my spare pump. -14 on the 19 mm spring bolt -37 for the o-ring around the back half of the pump. Be sure to stretch it out and seat it well.