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Old 07-05-2009, 11:09 PM   #201
2slofouru
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Bump for any info on the legacy/tribeca 3 liter coils. I'm going to make sure they bolt in properly tomorrow but still haven't found wiring information. Anyone with a six cylinder legacy or tribeca care to test their coilpack plugs for pinout?
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Old 07-06-2009, 12:40 AM   #202
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2slofouru View Post
Bump for any info on the legacy/tribeca 3 liter coils. I'm going to make sure they bolt in properly tomorrow but still haven't found wiring information. Anyone with a six cylinder legacy or tribeca care to test their coilpack plugs for pinout?
The part numbers are different between the 3.0 and WRX coil pack. Without having them next to each other it would be hard to guess what the differences are.

-Rob
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Old 07-06-2009, 08:49 AM   #203
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rob View Post
The part numbers are different between the 3.0 and WRX coil pack. Without having them next to each other it would be hard to guess what the differences are.

-Rob
I was aware the p/n was different when I bought them but they appear to be the same externally. Going outside to verify that in a few. I just need to be sure of the pin order before soldering. Hopefully someone has access to a six cylinder legacy or a tribeca.
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Old 07-06-2009, 10:34 AM   #204
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rob View Post
The part numbers are different between the 3.0 and WRX coil pack. Without having them next to each other it would be hard to guess what the differences are.

-Rob
the part numbers between the STI and WRX are different aslo. but both work...

remember Lego's. if i get a chance i will look up wiring today at work.

-=Suberdave=-
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Old 07-06-2009, 01:05 PM   #205
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Quote:
Originally Posted by suberdave View Post
the part numbers between the STI and WRX are different aslo. but both work...

remember Lego's. if i get a chance i will look up wiring today at work.

-=Suberdave=-
True, but I know between WRX and STI, they have the same valve covers. I don't know what the six cylinder covers look like.

-Rob
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Old 07-06-2009, 03:16 PM   #206
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legacy H6 3.0 coils are 100% the same thing
and at the local wrecking spot are cheaper as they have less TURBO about them

work just fine - done 3 cars like this here and cause theres less demand for the legacy i got the harness tossed in free
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Old 07-06-2009, 08:53 PM   #207
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Quote:
Originally Posted by suberdave View Post
the part numbers between the STI and WRX are different aslo. but both work...

remember Lego's. if i get a chance i will look up wiring today at work.

-=Suberdave=-
Thanks, that would be awesome

Quote:
Originally Posted by rob View Post
True, but I know between WRX and STI, they have the same valve covers. I don't know what the six cylinder covers look like.

-Rob
I bolted it on today for fit and it seemed perfect. The bottom sits flat on the head and the bolt lines up and threads in easily. I need to measure the distance from the spring in the boot to the end though because it seems like my normal wire boots have the clamp a little closer to the end. Either way I could stretch the spring a little I guess. I had someone measure his wrx coil boot and it was the same length as my legacy/tribeca coils so that's good news

Quote:
Originally Posted by 3barboost View Post
legacy H6 3.0 coils are 100% the same thing
and at the local wrecking spot are cheaper as they have less TURBO about them

work just fine - done 3 cars like this here and cause theres less demand for the legacy i got the harness tossed in free
Sweet, so the pin positions are in the same spots? 12v+, ground, trigger...starting from the boot side?

Last edited by 2slofouru; 07-06-2009 at 10:45 PM.
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Old 07-21-2009, 12:23 AM   #208
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so the issue i ran into is that my ingitor box does not look like the one displayed...my is labelled j144 and has no other writing, identical wire arrangment other then colors...should i just follow the directions still!?
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Old 07-21-2009, 08:44 PM   #209
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 93GC8Dub View Post
so the issue i ran into is that my ingitor box does not look like the one displayed...my is labelled j144 and has no other writing, identical wire arrangment other then colors...should i just follow the directions still!?
Do you have any pics? Sometimes the suby colors are different but order is the same.

Update on mine, got the legacy coils wired in 7/9-Thursday and they're working totally fine. I also have them individually molex'd at the previous coil location so they can be unplugged to diagnose miss problems.
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Old 08-24-2009, 04:53 AM   #210
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Eatoniashoprat View Post
I agree with everything Rob said, I just used a big gun cus I have one, and I don't have a small iron.

In other news, here are some pics of making these coil packs work with legacy ej20g heads/valve covers!!!

First: pop the copper bushing out with a socket and a hammer.
Second: Cut part of the metal part off of the coil pack as shown in the first picture. You can use a hack saw or a zip disk.
Third: You need to cut off the smaller metal mounting hole on the coil pack on only two of the packs. This is because the mounting is different on the passengers side, the big hole doesn't line up with the holes. If you cut these small holes off you can run the mounting bolt along side the coil pack with a washer on it to hold it in. I didn't show a pic of this.
Fourth: Take a dremel or hand file and remove a small amount of material (plastic) where the arrows are pointing in the second picture.
Fifth: Sit back and admire your work.

When I held the packs up before cutting the metal part it looked like a lot of this plastic was going to be in the way, meaning having to cut very deep and expose the internals. Just remove a few mm on each side and corner the edges, test fitting after each small cut and you're good to go. I used a hand file because it really only needed a couple passes to fit, not really worth getting the dremel out, unless you don't have a file.

With the copper bushing out, the hole is big enough that you can use the legacy mounting bolt to secure the coil pack, no need to drill a new hole. Since this bushing is gone though, I suggest using a star washer to ensure good contact with the ground wire.





If anything is unclear let me know and I fix it.
Does somebody can post these pics again or know where to find them on the 'net'?

I made some pics yesterday, would like to see some examples before I start modifying my coils (these come from a 2004 JDM Legacy TwinScroll)








Thanks already for your help,

Bram
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Old 09-03-2009, 01:04 PM   #211
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Bump for showing these pics how to fit the wrx coils on old Legacy heads?

Quote:
It turns out the legacy cam covers have a two hole mounting scheme, so the coil mounting holes don't line up. You need to drill a new mounting hole on the coil. Also I think the size of the coil body is too big, so you also need to round down a corner a bit. Best would be to try to find the WRX cam covers.

-Rob
A friend of mine tried fitting the WRX cam covers, but informed me they didn't fit on the Legacy heads.
Any clues for me on this?
I'd prefer fitting some other valve covers so no grinding is required.

thanks for your help already,

Bram
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Old 09-03-2009, 05:12 PM   #212
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That friend was me

The WRX EJ20G valve covers do fit but you'll end up with oil leaking all over the place in the coil plug area as that is where they differ most.

Anyone here who can help Bram out? He's working on a very nice and professional swap (EJ20G into an 80s XT Turbo) and these are one of the last things he needs to finish the project.

Promise to take me for a ride when it's done!
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Old 09-19-2009, 04:09 PM   #213
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After some help and guidance from Rob I started mounting my lEgacy 2004 twinscroll mods on my Legacy I turbo EJ20G.

Upon removal of the old coils, it became clear it was about time to replace these old coils. Some broke off at the tip, other were cracked in the upper housing where the brass dowels are located. See pics.





Then using a circular template with outer diameter of about 37mm, I grinded down the edges of the coil housing. I will finish it a bit smoother later.

Then I cut down the brass bushings in the WRX coils, as they are to big for the Legacy head, and machined them to a flat surface and enlarged the hole to 9mm.
Then I took the Legacy bushings, and the side that's originally mounted in the coil, I machined to about 9,1mm. Then I press fitted the Legacy bushing in the WRX bushing, and pressed the assembly in the WRX coil. See pic.







Thanks again Rob.

Bram
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Old 09-21-2009, 11:07 AM   #214
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Nice work Bram. If you screw one up, I've got plent more of those
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Old 09-21-2009, 08:09 PM   #215
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Quote:
Next comes connecting the old connector to the new coil. You have two colors on the old pigtail, Red and Yellow (one of them might have a stripe, can't remember). Here's the tricky part of this, the only show the wiring *up to* the coil connectors. The problem is in the diagram, the yellow wire is the +12V, but after the connector, on the coil side, the yellow wire turns into the trigger signal.

** To wire the pigtail to the new coils, connect the Yellow wire to the trigger pin on the new coil and the Red wire to the +12v pin. Put a ring terminal on the center pin wire.
Rob,

using a small ('watchmakers') screwdriver, it's very easy to remove the pins/wires from the original connector, just bend away the plastic locking tabs, and out they go.
If you switch the wires and then insert them again in the connector, the 12V+ yellow wire, stays yellow wire after the connector, and then you can connect yellow to yellow, and trigger to trigger on the new coils.

pic showing a removed pin.



---------------------------------------------------------------------------

Quote:
3. The coil fits in the early WRX heads perfectly, however there are some fitment issues with the Liberty version of the motors. The engine harness has two coil connectors for each side. The grey connector is for the front coil, the black is for the rear
Why do these coils have a grey and a black connector? The coils all have the same partnumber on them? What's the difference between a grey connector coil and a black connector coil?

---------------------------------------------------------------------------

Also found out the ignitor pin numbering are different on the EUDM Legacy Turbo's.

However, if you follow the note from Rob, that the ECU pin out is listed a the ignition sequence 1-3-2-4, as is well.

So;
ECU pin b10, colour YR, is cylinder 1
ECU pin b9, colour GW, is cylinder 3
ECU pin b8, colour R, is cylinder 2
ECU pin b7, colour BR, is cylinder 4



Also leading to bypassing wires according to:
YL -- RG
GW -- L
R -- WR
BR -- LG

bram

Last edited by bram_r; 09-23-2009 at 11:16 AM.
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Old 09-23-2009, 08:18 PM   #216
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and the final result;

driver side:


passenger side:


next weekend I will start the engine and see if I did all the wiring correctly.

bram
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Old 09-23-2009, 08:18 PM   #217
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double post

Last edited by bram_r; 10-09-2009 at 06:22 PM.
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Old 10-08-2009, 05:26 PM   #218
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Another satisfied coil conversioner! Thanks Rob!

My situation (for future help to other readers) was severe hesitation/studdering/jerking at anything above 2500-3000rpms, or even .5psi of boost. Very limiting and hard to reach 40mph. The issue happened on a very rainy day (after 2 days of solid rain). After the rain parted, and 2 days of the car in the garage, the car ran just fine. Worried about coil issues, and knowing this was a good idea anyways, I found some coils. I did the conversion and I cannot guarantee that my issue was fixed (it isn't rainy or high humidity currently), but I can guarantee that my car runs 100x better. I never thought it ran anything but perfectly...until I did this conversion. It is such a smooth feeling, and acceleration through boost is much stronger.

If you haven't done this, do it...with or without problems. I'd have to imagine this is a power gain, as well as a safety precaution.

And just for note, all 4 of my EJ20g coils looked perfect. No cracks, no tears in the boot, nothing. They looked new under the rubber boot. I will report back after a good hard rain and see if my issue has been resolved (I expect it will be).

Jason
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Old 10-08-2009, 05:35 PM   #219
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Cool. Glad to hear Jason. Man if I only I had figured a way to make royalties off each successful conversion :P
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Old 10-08-2009, 08:52 PM   #220
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rob View Post
Cool. Glad to hear Jason. Man if I only I had figured a way to make royalties off each successful conversion :P

HAHA, you would be rich! You still have royalties with me, just need to find a part I get for you that is cheaper/more feasible than the internet pricing
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Old 10-13-2009, 06:29 PM   #221
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Hey all, did the conversion on my friends car (ver.2 STi), it is better, yet he still get’s misfire. It happens (the misfire) at about 5500 and also above 6000 to redline.
The weird thing is, if the car has been sitting for some time (as in totally cold), when you start it, and run it, it will not do it for a bit. Once warmed up, it does it again. Any suggestions or idea’s?
It happens no matter what the boost level is !! even if you just creap up (as in no boost) to the higher rpm's.

It has new WRX coils, new NGK BKR6E plugs gapped to .28, and all connections have good contacts.
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Old 10-13-2009, 07:14 PM   #222
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You could have a bad solder/crimp joint. Did you get the coils used? It is possible that one of the new coils is suspect. Also, I would suggest opening up the gap to 0.032 - 0.033.

-Rob
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Old 10-13-2009, 07:47 PM   #223
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New coils as stated above, the plug gap has been tried from .34 down to .24, and all the connections are solid.
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Old 10-13-2009, 07:57 PM   #224
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Karl S. View Post
New coils as stated above, the plug gap has been tried from .34 down to .24, and all the connections are solid.
If it where me, I would double check the connections anyway (looking for cold solder joints) and ohm out the grounding at the coil pins back to the battery ground.

If all checks out, then start looking somewhere other than the ignition system.

-Rob
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Old 10-13-2009, 08:52 PM   #225
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Rob, I did all that, that's why I was asking if anyone had any other ideas (besides the ignition) that would contribute to the misfire/cutout ? problem. Heck, I even changed the crank and cam sensors twice, (and yes, they are all good) and checked the crank sprocket teeth also.
So, I am looking for something else that would cause the ignition/spark to misfire.
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