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Old 06-23-2007, 08:06 AM   #951
Aquamist
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When you solder the resistor onto the circuit board. please ensure the body does not touch the circuit to avoid heat-aging to the circuit board. The original resistor comes with two ceramic stand-offs for this puepose.
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Old 06-23-2007, 08:41 AM   #952
InsaneSplash
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Ok, Ill make sure the resistor doesn't touch the board and give it some space as well. I will see if I can find some heat protective material to insert between the 2 to shield it.

How hot will it get, any concern in melting the board's plastic box?
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Old 06-23-2007, 08:49 AM   #953
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It doesn't get hot unless it is on boost and under the failsafe activation period. The maximum power dissipation is about 2 Watts, at 100***37; Duty cycle. I am sure it will be fine inside the box.

A 3W resistor is good. Heat "aging" rather than heat "burn" is my concern.
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Old 06-23-2007, 08:52 AM   #954
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Ok, I have the 3W 39R resistor, nice fat green one

What is the difference between aging and burn? (Excuse my ignorance)
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Old 06-23-2007, 04:02 PM   #955
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aquamist View Post
Please send me an email, I think I have sorted out the spam filter. We have a great deal to catch up.
do you filter out hotmail accounts?:

Quote:
This is an automatically generated Delivery Status Notification. Delivery to the following recipients failed. [email protected]
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Old 06-23-2007, 05:15 PM   #956
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Quote:
Originally Posted by djerickd View Post
do you filter out hotmail accounts?:
When did you send your email to the [email protected] mailbox?

My local filter dosen't filter out hotmail. Perhaps pm me for the time being. I have sent any email to you today, did you receive it?
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Old 06-23-2007, 05:48 PM   #957
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aquamist View Post
When did you send your email to the [email protected] mailbox?

My local filter dosen't filter out hotmail. Perhaps pm me for the time being. I have sent any email to you today, did you receive it?
I have not recived anything and I tried right before I posted above. I'll PM you!
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Old 06-23-2007, 08:10 PM   #958
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Hi guys....

Long time lurker, first time poster. Been posting on Aquamist and mailed Richard.....no replies....

Wondering how this HFS system is lined up in the product range..? Is it above the 2D/2S.....?

My tuner recommends a 2D, though by his admission had not seen a 2S. I like the 'Plug and Play' plate mount that would seem to cut down installation problems too. Though not seen much about it, apart from the picture on the Aquamist site.

I have a Forester STI, which I intend to swap turbo and have a MD321H in place, so around 400 crank HP (or more..)

Any suggestions would be most appreciated...

Thanks,

Mark
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Old 06-24-2007, 11:19 AM   #959
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Well personally I have used the 2C, then modified this so as to be come a hybrid 2D. I have used the new bracket which helps with getting the components located. I have not used the Perrin kit but given that its Aquamist I'm sure you would be happy with it....I assume this is what you are referring to as the plug and play kit.

If your in England and you not looking at a radical 100***37; methanol setup stick with what your tuner is familiar with. IMO this would be the 2D, DDS3, and the new mounting bracket, maybe include a priming pump......talk to you tuner usually these people are your best resource.

The HFS kits have a couple of things going on. The HFS-X kits use the 150 Aquamist Shurflo pump, All HFS-X kits contain the DDS3 as part of the kit, the HFS kits do better with high methanol injection because of the pumps capabilities, by using the Aquamist Shurflo pumps shipping to the USA is lower, the cost of the Aquamist Shurflo pump is less then the cost of the Aquamist race pump.
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Old 06-25-2007, 08:59 AM   #960
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Yeah, it was the new mounting bracket that I was on about when I referred to the 'Plug and play' system. It is on the Aquamist site, but I cannot link as I am too noob! (< 8 posts)
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Old 06-26-2007, 03:17 PM   #961
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Ok, I installed the 39R resistor tonight and it made no difference to the CEL (engine) light. I noticed that even when I turn the WL clockwise and the B LED goes off, (engine light goes on) the red LED on the DDS3 board stays permanently lit. If I turn the WL anti-clockwise, the B LED goes on (engine light goes off) but the red LED stays on. BTW, the resistor doesn't warm up.

I see that the FIA2 Trigger is linked up to my boost sensor. The question I have is, which contact does it connect to on the sensor and does it replace the original contact wire or is it added to the existing wire.

In other words will one contact remain as is and the other is replaced with the FIA2 Trigger wire?
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Old 06-26-2007, 03:28 PM   #962
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Have you followed the diagram accurately?
pin11 must go to ECU and pin12 goes to BCV. Please check again.

It appear the MAP sensor input pin17 is correctly wired. We can move onto the mAP sensor trigger after we have sorted out your CEL.

I have a question, does the CEL comes on when you switch the DDS3 off?
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Old 06-26-2007, 03:31 PM   #963
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aquamist View Post
Have you followed the diagram accurately?
pin11 must go to ECU and pin12 goes to BCV. Please check again.

It appear the MAP sensor input pin17 is correctly wired. We can move onto the mAP sensor trigger after we have sorted out your CEL.

I have a question, does the CEL comes on when you switch the DDS3 off?

Thanks for the quick reply..

Yup, As soon as I turn the DDS3 Gauge off, the CEL light comes on a second or 2 later.
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Old 06-26-2007, 03:56 PM   #964
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It appeared the pin11 and pin12 is swapped. Try switching 11/12 around.

Where in SA are you loacted? I know someone who can help you if you are in JB.
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Old 06-26-2007, 03:58 PM   #965
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aquamist View Post
It appeared the pin11 and pin12 is swapped. Try switching 11/12 around.

Where in SA are you loacted? I know someone who can help you if you are in JB.
Ok, Let me give that a go. Yes I am in Johannesburg so any help would be great! If you want I can call you? (Really desperate to get it fixed)
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Old 06-26-2007, 04:15 PM   #966
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Quote:
Originally Posted by marky9074 View Post
Hi guys....

Long time lurker, first time poster. Been posting on Aquamist and mailed Richard.....no replies....

Wondering how this HFS system is lined up in the product range..? Is it above the 2D/2S.....?

My tuner recommends a 2D, though by his admission had not seen a 2S. I like the 'Plug and Play' plate mount that would seem to cut down installation problems too. Though not seen much about it, apart from the picture on the Aquamist site.

I have a Forester STI, which I intend to swap turbo and have a MD321H in place, so around 400 crank HP (or more..)

Any suggestions would be most appreciated...

Thanks,

Mark

Hi Mark,

I also have a Forester XT (wish it was the STI like yours), and have installed a 2D with DDS3 on the plug and play bracket. It is a great setup and I think you would be very happy with the results. I run 50/50 water/methanol mix and my tuner was able to extract nearly 400 ft/lb of torque at the wheels (around 390 ft/lb to be exact) with a 1mm spray jet, priming pump and 22cc accumulator. My current engine mods are VF39 turbo, Perrin TMIC, 740cc injectors, fuel pump, exhaust, Cobb AP, etc.

HFS is supposed to flow a lot more and you can run higher mixture of Methanol to for even higher power output. As of now, I go through about a gallon of 50/50 mix per tank of gas using the stock winshield fluid bottle. Maybe I'll upgrade to this once I get a larger turbo later on.

Good luck
Peter

Last edited by singlefin; 06-26-2007 at 04:21 PM.
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Old 06-26-2007, 04:31 PM   #967
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Quote:
Originally Posted by InsaneSplash View Post
Ok, Let me give that a go. Yes I am in Johannesburg so any help would be great! If you want I can call you? (Really desperate to get it fixed)
pm me your contact number I will try to arrange someone to call you.
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Old 06-26-2007, 04:51 PM   #968
Aquamist
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Got your pm - I'd better have your name also.
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Old 06-26-2007, 07:59 PM   #969
logicalxtremes
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Iam looking to get a Aquamist kit but dont know which kit to get. Its for A Protuned AP stage 2 05 sti Thanks LX

Last edited by logicalxtremes; 06-26-2007 at 09:10 PM.
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Old 06-28-2007, 05:41 PM   #970
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Hi Richard,

Just got back from your contact (G) in JHB, Great Guy! Thanks very much for all your help in getting my system up and finally have it working the way it was designed to. You were right regarding the swapping of pins 11 and 12. Only confusing thing is it seems opposite to the diagram. Could be wrong.

I also found it interesting about the flow rates related to temp and how the pump needs to warm up etc. G also explained how, when on boost there is pressure back on the flow of water from the injector. When the boost decreases the flow rate increases slightly. I am going to re-eval my water by possibly adding a % of meth to it, especially for the summer season.

1 Question I raised with G tonight on the way home was that I picked up that the engine light is now very faintly glowing. It continues to glow at the same level even if I turn the gauge off or on.

Have a good evening and again thanks for all your help and to G for providing his time and insight in to helping resolve my problems.

Aquamist is an awesome piece of kit and a definite must!
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Old 06-30-2007, 06:12 AM   #971
marky9074
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Quote:
Originally Posted by singlefin View Post
Hi Mark,

I also have a Forester XT (wish it was the STI like yours), and have installed a 2D with DDS3 on the plug and play bracket. It is a great setup and I think you would be very happy with the results. I run 50/50 water/methanol mix and my tuner was able to extract nearly 400 ft/lb of torque at the wheels (around 390 ft/lb to be exact) with a 1mm spray jet, priming pump and 22cc accumulator. My current engine mods are VF39 turbo, Perrin TMIC, 740cc injectors, fuel pump, exhaust, Cobb AP, etc.

HFS is supposed to flow a lot more and you can run higher mixture of Methanol to for even higher power output. As of now, I go through about a gallon of 50/50 mix per tank of gas using the stock winshield fluid bottle. Maybe I'll upgrade to this once I get a larger turbo later on.

Good luck
Peter
Thanks for that Peter, sounds like the perfect install and set up. I have had an email from Richard, and he recommends using the HFS setup. Now I was considering the STI Spec C tank, but Jamie has suggested a different (STI) one....(damn still cant post links..)

Trouble is I have not seen this mounted, so not sure how it would fit etc...(this tank is not OEM in UK)..

Mark
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Old 06-30-2007, 12:59 PM   #972
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sorry if this has been asked before but there a LOT of pages to go through

I have a Impreza WRX, running about 1.5bar boost.



Through the diagnostics I've been noticing a bit of knock correction at certain loads, when ambient temps are high.



I obviously need to get charge temps down.



I have retained the standard TMIC as I do not want to go to a front mount intercooler and suffer lag problems. I am therefore considering water injection as a solution.



I only want it to eliminate det and not extract more bhp as I have the setup I want, I just don't want to melt a piston when it gets hotter in the summer, traffic probs etc.



The question is, what in all truth and honesty is the kit that is sufficient for my needs, and will my map need to be tweaked in order to account for the addition of the kit.
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Old 06-30-2007, 05:51 PM   #973
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Quote:
Originally Posted by InsaneSplash View Post
Hi Richard,

Just got back from your contact (G) in JHB, Great Guy! Thanks very much for all your help in getting my system up and finally have it working the way it was designed to. You were right regarding the swapping of pins 11 and 12. Only confusing thing is it seems opposite to the diagram. Could be wrong.
If you tell me which diagram you are referring to was wrong I will correct it and make an update so no more future confusion.

Quote:
Originally Posted by InsaneSplash View Post
.
.
.
1 Question I raised with G tonight on the way home was that I picked up that the engine light is now very faintly glowing. It continues to glow at the same level even if I turn the gauge off or on.
The DDS3 makes no change on your ECU/BCV connection when it is "switched on! and during normal operations. The dim CEL light is not related to the DDS3. Check your ECU pin-out connect again. The diagram I posted earlier have ECU pin# reference.
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Old 06-30-2007, 07:05 PM   #974
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bump for Richard!
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Old 06-30-2007, 07:18 PM   #975
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jaxscuby View Post
bump for Richard!
Thanks
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