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Old 12-06-2018, 12:53 PM   #1
TheOddOne
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Exclamation What maintenance should be done while the engine is out?

Pulling the engine from my 2004 STi, a Subbie indy shop said the cam brackets (cam carriers?) were causing an oil leak as they weren't sealed properly by the prior owner. These came loose when doing the valve cover gaskets apparently.

In any case, they said I'd need to pull the engine to reseal the cam bracket properly. Decided to do it myself to save the money as I've pulled engines before, just never subarus.

Planning to do some other maintenance while I have the engine out. Is there anything else I should include?

-timing belt, pulleys, + water pump
-4 camshaft seals, 1 crankshaft seal
-headgaskets? (I don't think they're leaking...but would it be wise to just change them out if I have the engine pulled?).
-power steering hoses (hoses were leaking onto the exhaust)
-valve cover gaskets, half-moons
-intake manifold gaskets
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Old 12-06-2018, 01:32 PM   #2
mrsaturn7085
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-timing belt, pulleys, + water pump can be done in-car just as easily
-4 camshaft seals, 1 crankshaft seal might as well
-headgaskets? (I don't think they're leaking...but would it be wise to just change them out if I have the engine pulled?). requires machine work to do properly, not recommended
-power steering hoses (hoses were leaking onto the exhaust) easiest with exhaust out, but with engine out it's trivial
-valve cover gaskets, half-moons 100% yes
-intake manifold gaskets just as easy when the engine is installed

Oil pan is infinitely easier with the engine not installed to the crossmember.
Valve clearances should be adjusted while you have the valve covers off.
Anything relating to the coolant/oil hoses on the turbo is good to do with the engine out - at a minimum, the turbo needs to be removed to get to these.

Do yourself a favor and make sure you keep your up-pipe heat shield installed to ensure long life on the new valve cover gasket seals.
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Old 12-06-2018, 03:38 PM   #3
Charlie-III
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrsaturn7085 View Post
-timing belt, pulleys, + water pump can be done in-car just as easily
-4 camshaft seals, 1 crankshaft seal might as well
-headgaskets? (I don't think they're leaking...but would it be wise to just change them out if I have the engine pulled?). requires machine work to do properly, not recommended
-power steering hoses (hoses were leaking onto the exhaust) easiest with exhaust out, but with engine out it's trivial
-valve cover gaskets, half-moons 100% yes
-intake manifold gaskets just as easy when the engine is installed

Oil pan is infinitely easier with the engine not installed to the crossmember.
Valve clearances should be adjusted while you have the valve covers off.
Anything relating to the coolant/oil hoses on the turbo is good to do with the engine out - at a minimum, the turbo needs to be removed to get to these.

Do yourself a favor and make sure you keep your up-pipe heat shield installed to ensure long life on the new valve cover gasket seals.
What he said, plus......
Rear crank seal
Check/replace oil separator plate

How many miles on engine?
If high, you can check deck warp and maybe get away with new HG's now.
If doing valve covers/half moons, do the full kit (cover seals, plug wells, cover grommet seals).
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Old 12-06-2018, 04:00 PM   #4
Fndragn
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If the intake manifold is off I’d change out the rubber hoses off the heads (balancing vents) and all the hoses associated with them, the Pcv hoses might be due also. There rubber and get brittle with all the heat cycles. I didn’t when I had my engine out and that was a mistake.
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Old 12-06-2018, 04:01 PM   #5
mrsaturn7085
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I was assuming he meant rear seal + oil plate when he said crank seal. I would not bother replacing the front if unnecessary. To be honest, I'd leave the separator alone unless leaking - the new ones are sheet metal and most arrive bent from the dealership. The older cast part is out of production and that's what you should have on everything before 2007 or so.

I'll rephrase my opinion on head gaskets as it differs from CIII:

Don't replace them. Head gaskets are good or bad, they don't wear over time. You have a better chance of the current gasket lasting forever than a new gasket lasting more than 20-30k miles - most machine shops do NOT do the work as well as OEM head/block surfacing.
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Old 12-06-2018, 06:56 PM   #6
TheOddOne
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Thanks for the input so far. The engine has 160k kms, 100k miles.
How do i check for deck warp? So no head gaskets unless they're leaky then eh?

I'll add your suggestions to my list. I was also told to upgrade the oil pick up pipe as well? Undecided on that.

I'm not too familiar with the crankshaft seal honestly, have to look at a diagram of the engine to see if it's the correct seal i'm talking about. Was just reading and told that was another item that should be done.
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Old 12-07-2018, 05:00 PM   #7
bp05obxt
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Build it if you are pulling it...
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Old 12-07-2018, 08:43 PM   #8
Charlie-III
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheOddOne View Post
Thanks for the input so far. The engine has 160k kms, 100k miles.
How do i check for deck warp? So no head gaskets unless they're leaky then eh?

I'll add your suggestions to my list. I was also told to upgrade the oil pick up pipe as well? Undecided on that.

I'm not too familiar with the crankshaft seal honestly, have to look at a diagram of the engine to see if it's the correct seal i'm talking about. Was just reading and told that was another item that should be done.
There are 2 crank seals........rear main (under the flywheel/flexplate) which should be checked/replaced while engine is out, front crank seal which can be done engine in the car. Normally done when doing a timing belt (if it's leaking) since timing belt has to come off to replace the front seal.

As to HG's, agreed, if not leaking externally or indications of leaking to the cooling system......"if it ain't broke, don't fix it".
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Old 12-14-2018, 10:37 AM   #9
TheOddOne
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Perfect, thanks for the help. I think I'll also swap out the power steering hoses and coolant hoses. Plan to keep the car for a long while so might as well get all of this out of the way.
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Old 12-14-2018, 01:35 PM   #10
mrsaturn7085
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I would recommend pulling the power steering pump off the motor and just leaving the entire PAS system buttoned-up, if you can manage to do it.
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Old 12-25-2018, 01:27 PM   #11
NighthawkSTI
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perfect time to upgrade the motor mounts and pitch stop
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Old 04-15-2019, 03:54 PM   #12
sspeed
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I apologize for necromancing this thread, but I felt it was more relevant than starting my own for the exact same thing.

'05 LGT
153k miles - near perfect compression and leakdown
Trans coming out for a noisy bearing and possible broken tooth on second
And my front main seal is leaking badly

Here's what I had considered:
11831AA210 - Oil seperator plate (but looks like advice is to leave it?)
Oil pump
Oil pump o-ring
Front main seal
Cylinder head plugs (half moons) - 11051AA070 x 2
Left and right valve cover - 13272AA140 & 13270AA190
Spark plug hold gaskets - 13293AA051 x 4
Oil cooler gasket - 21370KA001
Cam seals - 806732160 x 2 and 803742160 x 2
Rear main seal - 806786040
Re-seal oil pan
Check harmonic balancer
Machine WRX flywheel
Dominator 1.5 XT-R since turbine housing is always the hardest part to get past, why put my old BNR 16g back on?

Just had the intake manifold and such off recently, so those gaskets are good.

Should I also do those valve cover breather gaskets? Any other o-rings that will be hard as rocks that I should consider?
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