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02-15-2009, 10:48 PM | #1 |
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Ball joint cone removal
How the heck did you guys remove the cone on the ball joint?
I was installing my RCA kit and got the ball joints out...everything was ready to go, but I could not get the cone off the ball joint for the life of me. Suggestions? FWIW I used PB blaster on the cone with no luck. Kind Regards, Ryan Anyone have a set laying around I can use? $$?
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02-15-2009, 10:51 PM | #2 |
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check you post on iwsti...
anyways Use a pitman arm puller on it.. go to pep boys. pick up a pitman arm puller. it'll be off in a second. |
02-15-2009, 10:59 PM | #3 |
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I used a press. Puller looks good though.
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02-16-2009, 01:26 AM | #4 |
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That one tool will pop the ball joint out of the control arm, pop the cone off the ball joint, and pop the outer tie rod out of the knuckle. All for $15. |
02-16-2009, 02:55 AM | #5 |
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^^tried looking for that one.. couldnt find it anywhere...
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02-16-2009, 02:56 AM | #6 |
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NAPA has two kinds. A $15 one and a $45 one. The only difference is that the $45 has a ball bearing at the end of the bolt to reduce friction. Obviously, I bought the cheap one
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02-16-2009, 02:58 AM | #7 |
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^ yeah.. if you have a choice go for the one williaty posted.. I should have checked out napa..
with the pitman, if you remove the outer tie rod you'll have to remove the rotors (yes i did that) with the one williaty posted.. you dont have to, so its sooo much better. |
02-16-2009, 03:01 AM | #8 |
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My only warning is wear hearing protection when you use that tool. It'll sound like .45ACP round going off next to your ear when it breaks the joint loose.
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02-16-2009, 03:13 AM | #9 |
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02-16-2009, 03:16 AM | #10 |
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First time I popped a balljoint out of the LCA with that, I was reeeeeeaaaaly cranking on the wrench. I got worried I was going to break the tool. I stuck my head into the wheel well to be able to look behind the rotor to make sure that the tool wasn't hung up or something. I gave the tool a poke and the joint finally let go. With my head still in a confined space with it. I literally couldn't hear for ~30 minutes and my right ear rang for 4-5 days afterwards.
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02-16-2009, 08:23 AM | #11 |
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I've found that when you get it tight to the point you don't really want to tighten it any more. A couple taps on the control arm with a hammer will often unfreeze it and let it pop out. I have the ball bearing one and ball has actually gouged the arm it rests on.
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02-16-2009, 09:05 AM | #12 |
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10-19-2009, 11:13 AM | #13 | |
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Quote:
The NAPA tool looks awesome but my local shop confirmed no one in the area (including the warehouses) had it in stock. |
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06-17-2017, 10:18 PM | #14 |
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I know this is an old thread. If you are not reusing the ball joint that is stuck in the cone, put it in a vise and gently tighten it on the cone itself. Be careful that you don't damage the cone or it won't sit in the control arm like it should and you'll have to clean it up with a grinder. Get out a propane torch and evenly heat the con for 30 seconds or so and tap the threaded stud with a hammer and it will come right out. The first on I did this way came apart on its own, all I had to do is heat it. The second one just took the lightest tap with a hammer. You may burn the ball joint boot so be careful. If you are putting in a roll center kit in it won't matter. Hope this helps
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09-03-2021, 11:45 AM | #15 |
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Thank you, old reply to an even older thread. Heating the cone worked like a charm!
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09-07-2021, 09:38 AM | #16 |
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I use a 3-jaw puller
Works like a charm. If you live near a tool rental place, get the smallest one they have. |
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