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Old 09-25-2008, 04:08 AM   #1
Treefolk
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Default Whiteline Roll Center Adjustment Kit? Do you like it?

Hey all

I am kind of interested in getting the RCA kit for my car.
But I am not sure if this kit really help that much to worth the money...

So if you have this kit, I really hope you can share your thought and experience with us. Since I've searched but seems like not a lot of information around.

Somesay they love this kit, it make the car roll less and handle better.
But somesay they couldn't really feel the difference.

For $200, do you think this kit worth the price?

Thanks!
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Old 09-25-2008, 08:22 AM   #2
TurbojonLS
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I talked to a few locals and they said there was no difference unless really pushing the car - one is a track car, the other autocross.
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Old 09-25-2008, 11:12 AM   #3
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I disagree. I live in Chicago, home of some of the crappiest roads know to man. One thing i noticed is that when turning through a bumpy corner the car was less prone to bounce or skip over the bumps and it actually handled them. I felt like my turn in was sharper too but it might have just been in my head.
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Old 09-25-2008, 04:59 PM   #4
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I felt nothing. Plenty of track days too. I've had the ball joints walk out of their pockets in the knuckles too. Not enough to pop out but, enough to notice and fix.
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Old 09-25-2008, 05:34 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MasterKwan View Post
I felt nothing. Plenty of track days too. I've had the ball joints walk out of their pockets in the knuckles too. Not enough to pop out but, enough to notice and fix.
Question:

Does the ball (piviot) of the joint and the tie rod change relative to the knuckle?

Does just the lower control arm and rack arm just sit flater with a spacer effect?

Edit: Answered my own question...

Last edited by Web Foot STi; 09-28-2008 at 12:05 AM.
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Old 09-25-2008, 06:16 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MasterKwan View Post
I felt nothing. Plenty of track days too. I've had the ball joints walk out of their pockets in the knuckles too. Not enough to pop out but, enough to notice and fix.
This has been happening to me on my track car as well. I think I'm going to sell them and just be done with it. It's done it on two different sets of front spindles.

Duncan
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Old 09-25-2008, 08:54 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MasterKwan View Post
I've had the ball joints walk out of their pockets in the knuckles too. Not enough to pop out but, enough to notice and fix.
I experienced this as well. After re-seating them and retightening the pitch bolt, they seem to have finally stayed in place. But it bothers me.

In addition, my steering seems somewhat more vague since the install. I'm wondering if there's more flex in the extended tie-rod ends. Anyone else notice this?

Quote:
Originally Posted by ripvw View Post
more precise steering, better steering feel -
Yeah, my experience has been exactly the opposite on those two counts.

_Jeff
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Old 09-25-2008, 06:16 PM   #8
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Oh, and to answer the original posters question, I couldn't really feel a difference when I installed these.

Duncan
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Old 09-25-2008, 07:16 PM   #9
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That's funny, I'm selling mine too. I found a set of the castor adding control arms and just installed them. I also don't run that low.

I really think the factory balljoints are just a smidge larger than the WL ones. I should measure. I noticed the WL ones pop right in and out of the knuckle whereas I needed to work a little to get the factory ones in. It's either that or the added height allows more torque to be applied to the BJ.

WL seems to extend the body of the ball joint so the pivot is in the same relative position compared to the knuckle. The taller body spaces the control arm away from the knuckle so, at the same ride height, the control arm should have more angle towards the ground on the wheel end.

Last edited by MasterKwan; 09-25-2008 at 07:21 PM.
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Old 09-25-2008, 07:31 PM   #10
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We took a look at them the other day, and then flat spot above the bolt recess on the factory balljoint is taller. That seems to make them less susceptible to the rocking.

Duncan
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Old 09-25-2008, 08:50 PM   #11
ripvw
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I definitely feel the difference during daily driving - quicker turn in, more precise steering, better steering feel - all pro, no con. one of the best mods for the buck IMO - would buy them again...

suspension mods here:

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show...&postcount=214
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Old 09-25-2008, 09:16 PM   #12
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Oh yeah - and one more thing: BOTH of my tie rod boots have failed. Whiteline's sent me replacements, but I haven't bothered to replace them yet. Trying to decide what I want to do with this setup....

_Jeff
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Old 09-25-2008, 09:28 PM   #13
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Melted? I've heard of track WRX's melting the boots on the tie rods.
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Old 09-25-2008, 11:34 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MasterKwan View Post
Melted? I've heard of track WRX's melting the boots on the tie rods.
No, Ripped. They seemingly tore because they wouldn't flex enough under lock-to-lock turning.

Car hasn't seem anything that would qualify as "hard braking" by NASIOC standards.

_Jeff
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Old 09-26-2008, 12:32 AM   #15
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Well, I've got some new popping noises up under there and this thread might suggest why, so I'll have to check that out.

My take on them is that they keep the front end a little more planted and a little more consistent in feel throughout a turn. In other words, the front end feels the same and entry, apex, and exit rather than changing feel as it loads up when stock.
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Old 09-26-2008, 08:04 AM   #16
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I've gone through two tie rods as well. I had assumed they were melting since it's a track only car, but this makes me want to take a close look at them to see if they ripped.

Duncan
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Old 09-26-2008, 09:23 AM   #17
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My boots are still in good shape. Ball joints and tie rods. I have LGT brakes and no dust shields though and even on track they just don't get that hot. That's one of the reasons I upgraded the brakes, I'd heard rumors that you could cook the wheel bearings and tie rods with stock brakes.
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Old 09-26-2008, 10:13 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MasterKwan View Post
My boots are still in good shape. Ball joints and tie rods. I have LGT brakes and no dust shields though and even on track they just don't get that hot. That's one of the reasons I upgraded the brakes, I'd heard rumors that you could cook the wheel bearings and tie rods with stock brakes.
I was running a 12.9" rotor with no dustshields. Went through two boots in two months. I've since switched to a 13.3" front rotor and will be constructing a heat shield in between the tie rod and the rotor.

Duncan
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Old 09-27-2008, 02:14 AM   #19
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There seems to be a problem with the quality of the ball joints. A track car here in Australia had one fail. There is also a number of warnings/concerns by track clubs etc if you do a Google search.

I've had mine in for nearly 12 months and in that time have been back to the suspension shop several times to have the ball joints pushed back into the knuckles and re-tightened. Most people I know with them also have problems with them staying in place. I also get small ticking/popping noises which I think is the ball joint moving in and out of the knucke at slow speed. I'm worried my knuckles may have ovalised a bit from it now.

I've been advised to remove them and go back to stock, for safety's sake at least. I had them installed with a heap of other parts so I can't comment about their effectivness alone.

Is anyone running the ZeroSports version (ball joint and tie rod ends)? I know they are about 4 times the price but I'd be interested to hear about their quality.

Chris.
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Old 09-26-2008, 10:09 AM   #20
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Ok so i have purchased this kit and now debating if i should even go on with installing this kit. I purchased this with a bunch of other parts but now i dont know. I may never even go to the track just a DD what do you guys think (dont mean to steal the thread)
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Old 09-27-2008, 02:23 AM   #21
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You know, Whiteline is also having big quality problems with the other end of that system: the camber plate. A decent number of us have had problems with the Max-C camber plates. Now problems with this part too. I'll be getting under the car sometime soon to check this out. I hope it's not a problem with the RCAs themselves as that would basically confine Whiteline to a "only safe for non-moving parts" company, which would suck as Whiteline are good people.
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Old 09-27-2008, 03:38 AM   #22
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Originally Posted by williaty View Post
You know, Whiteline is also having big quality problems with the other end of that system: the camber plate. A decent number of us have had problems with the Max-C camber plates.
I pissed off my Max-C plates about a month after I got them. Wasn't the happiest camper.

Quote:
Originally Posted by williaty View Post
Now problems with this part too. I'll be getting under the car sometime soon to check this out. I hope it's not a problem with the RCAs themselves as that would basically confine Whiteline to a "only safe for non-moving parts" company, which would suck as Whiteline are good people.
Whiteline might be good people but the quality has never been there compared to Japanese and Euro stuff (Ikeya Formula, Cusco, H&R etc etc etc). I've had to pick welding dags out of threads on swaybar mounts, re-drill holes on sway bar ends, deal with strut top and ball joint problems, even one of the lateral movement locks on my FSB was out by over 10mm. I don't think there has been a part yet that has been 100%.

I think people that believe they are good quality haven't had any of the Jap or Euro stuff to compare it with. I think the only reason they survive is because they are cheap and they cater to the mass market. That's the reason I use them - they're cheap and I'm forever changing parts.

Chris.
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Old 09-27-2008, 08:30 AM   #23
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I have to agree with you CPC. I've not been overly impressed with the quality. The only parts I bought that I thought were 100% were the subframe lock bolts and my front 27mm sway bar. All the rest had fitment problem like the locator ring on the sway being in the wrong position and this balljoint walking problem.
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Old 09-27-2008, 09:27 AM   #24
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Does Whiteline still have a presence on this forum? It appears that there are numerous people having problems with these parts. It would be good to here Whiteline's position on the issue.

_Jeff
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Old 09-27-2008, 09:06 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Portly View Post
Does Whiteline still have a presence on this forum? It appears that there are numerous people having problems with these parts. It would be good to here Whiteline's position on the issue._Jeff
hmm... I have to say that this is about the only negative Whiteline thread I've seen on this board in many months. A quick review of the Car Parts forum turned up nothing but raves for Whiteline's parts and service, which has been my own experience. Since most of you seem to be racers perhaps the Motor Sports forum is what you're referring to - a place I visit only rarely.

The other thing I will say is that a huge number of people on this board install their own parts. Not to say that they can't follow the manufacturer's directions, but I have found that knowledgeable installers know from previous experience to replace the many "one time use" components that I see others reuse on this board. I would suspect that many of the NVH problems associated with aftermarket parts are due to the reuse of these parts - perhaps some wear and tear issues as well.

The only out & out failure of any of the thousand's of dollars of aftermarket parts I've purchased was my Noltec camber plates that the Whiteline Max-C's replaced a year ago. But then again - I don't race and all the components were shop installed by locally acknowledged experts.

If your experience has been negative I strongly recommend contacting Whiteline directly - I found them very responsive to technical questions and they handled my sole Whiteline problem (shipping error) immediately. I'm a little surprised that Arnie has not commented in this thread, since he has major connections to Whiteline and usually passes on issues like this to Jim Gurief @ Whiteline. TIC and RCE have also been involved in many Whiteline threads, and if you bought your gear from either of them or Dave @ Oakos I would say let them know too, no matter how old the part is.

Good luck...
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