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Old 05-01-2017, 03:26 PM   #1
Midnite8
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Default 2015+ Rear Control Arms?

Hello all, I just ordered some Fortune Auto 500 coilovers and will need to get some rear control arms for my 2016 WRX. I see a bunch that are $400+(RS*R, Voodoo, Cusco, etc) and a few that are $200+(Whiteline/SPC). Is it safe to go with a "close to oem" one like the whiteline or SPC? This is a daily and I'm not sure if I need all that extra adjustment from the doubled price tag LCAs. Any input?
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Old 05-01-2017, 04:03 PM   #2
uofime
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Midnite8 View Post
Hello all, I just ordered some Fortune Auto 500 coilovers and will need to get some rear control arms for my 2016 WRX. I see a bunch that are $400+(RS*R, Voodoo, Cusco, etc) and a few that are $200+(Whiteline/SPC). Is it safe to go with a "close to oem" one like the whiteline or SPC? This is a daily and I'm not sure if I need all that extra adjustment from the doubled price tag LCAs. Any input?
The cam type work fine. They're more of a pain to adjust, but as a DD you probably won't be doing that too much.

Someone on here had a bushing on their SPC ones fail (get contaminated and start clunking) after a year, so maybe look at the whiteline or super pro.

Also if you want to go to less than about -1.6deg camber you need to get new toe links as well because the stock ones run out of adjustment range.
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Old 05-03-2017, 02:32 AM   #3
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Originally Posted by uofime View Post

Also if you want to go to less than about -1.6deg camber you need to get new toe links as well because the stock ones run out of adjustment range.
I read a general rule to start is that one should start about a -.7 to -1 degrees less than the fronts. If the Whitelines are only able to get it back to -1.6 and I would like to run roughly -1.5 to start with in the fronts, should I consider getting something else other than the Whitelines?

Originally I was hoping to order the Whiteline adjustable front tophats and their rear lca. I am currently running RCE Yellows.
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Old 05-04-2017, 10:52 AM   #4
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Originally Posted by bunz559 View Post
I read a general rule to start is that one should start about a -.7 to -1 degrees less than the fronts. If the Whitelines are only able to get it back to -1.6 and I would like to run roughly -1.5 to start with in the fronts, should I consider getting something else other than the Whitelines?

Originally I was hoping to order the Whiteline adjustable front tophats and their rear lca. I am currently running RCE Yellows.
They'll adjust further than that, but you'll need to get new toe links. That isn't a limitation unique to the whiteline product, you'll have that same issue with all LCA's.

I've never heard some one suggest a full degree less rear than front, that would be very lively. For my car that I do AutoX and track days I went to 0.5deg difference (-2.0R, -2.5F).

For a daily driver, just keeping it in factory specs would be OK.

Depending on how low you make the car you can easily keep it to less than -2.0deg.

If you're worried about cornering balance and want less understeer than the stock alignment gives you you should just crank more camber into the front with the camber plates the coilovers come with. As long as you keep toe near zero you wont' see much irregular wear all the way up to -2.5deg.

or you can push the rear camber as far down as you can keep toe zero and do something like

-1.7R, -2.2F

That's probably the best option for a daily that you want to have some fun with and keep costs in check.

Last edited by uofime; 05-04-2017 at 04:00 PM.
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Old 05-04-2017, 03:11 PM   #5
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I'm dropped approx. 1" lower than stock (Konis with 2011 STI springs), and am really happy with SPC LCAs. They come with new adjustable toe link bushings to give you additional toe adjustment. These took me from about -1.7 to -1.2. I didn't have to use the toe bushings, but you probably will if you're dropped lower.
Plus, I'm pretty sure the SPCs are much cheap than the others.
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Old 06-27-2017, 08:07 PM   #6
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I don't mean to jump on your thread Midnite8, but I am interested in the same thing. How does the SuperPro/Whitline style LCA's compare to the Cusco LCA? Is there any performance difference or just adjustability differences? Also uofime, I was under the impression that to reduce understeer you would increase rear negative camber? I'm not knowledgable on this so I'm just trying to make sure. I probably have been misinterpreting that.
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Old 06-28-2017, 12:25 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by trabadoor22 View Post
Also uofime, I was under the impression that to reduce understeer you would increase rear negative camber? I'm not knowledgable on this so I'm just trying to make sure. I probably have been misinterpreting that.
You can do a few things to reduce understeer:
Dial in your front camber @ - 1.7 to -2.2 to get better grip up front.
Rear camber should be -1.0 to -1.3 or so.
Upgrade your rear sway bar (to 22mm) and end links.
...and learn to trail brake. It really helps the car rotate...but do so carefully.

Last edited by kingsalami; 06-28-2017 at 12:40 PM.
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Old 06-28-2017, 12:49 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by trabadoor22 View Post
I don't mean to jump on your thread Midnite8, but I am interested in the same thing. How does the SuperPro/Whitline style LCA's compare to the Cusco LCA? Is there any performance difference or just adjustability differences? Also uofime, I was under the impression that to reduce understeer you would increase rear negative camber? I'm not knowledgable on this so I'm just trying to make sure. I probably have been misinterpreting that.
There's nothing wrong with the "cam" style adjuster rear LCAs. They are a bit more difficult to adjust and they're also not shiny and blue. On the plus side they're cheaper, lighter and likely more durable. They are also serviceable, you can replace the joint, while to the best of my knowledge you can not get replacement rod ends for the cusco,

Alignment wise:

Increasing rear (-) camber is quite the opposite of what you want to do.

Understeer is the condition of having less grip at the front than you do at the rear. (over steer is the opposite)

To a point, adding camber increases grip (while cornering, it does reduce it in a straight line)

Therefore it should be clear that to solve understeer you have two choices: increase front grip or decrease rear grip.

Obviously if your goal is to actually go faster (as opposed to just having fun, which is of course OK!), you would prefer to not decrease grip at either end, but there are practical considerations of course as far as increased tire wear and what parts it will take to achieve your desired alignment specs.

senor Salami's specs would be great for a daily driver.
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Old 06-28-2017, 10:55 PM   #9
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Anyone have experience with ISC lower control arms for WRX?
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Old 06-29-2017, 11:43 AM   #10
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Originally Posted by tramp View Post
Anyone have experience with ISC lower control arms for WRX?
I've heard some "third hand" claims of them failing with significant (track) abuse, but a whole lot of people seem to run them.

I've heard nothing but good things about the Voodoo13 ones though and they're similarly priced new, though far more scarce used.
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Old 12-01-2019, 04:17 PM   #11
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I confused after reading this. So is it good to have negative camber in the back or not good. if I remember right I'm around 2.2-2.6 negative camber, and 2-3 negative in the front. I'd like to take out negative camber in the back. it's a daily driver and autocross car. with feal 441+ and stock sway bars. 2012 impreza NA.
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