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Old 03-08-2011, 05:15 PM   #376
EvileyeZ88
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rene2.5RS View Post
Then ask him to explain what the system is for.
I have... He said I would have cold start issues, but thats it.
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Old 03-08-2011, 05:17 PM   #377
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Maybe his concern is that someone will improperly do the 07 WRX air pump delete, cause problems, and place blame on him.
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Old 03-08-2011, 05:21 PM   #378
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And he is refusing to tune based on cold start issues alone. WOW! And based on that seems as though you know exactly what the system is used for.
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Old 03-08-2011, 05:28 PM   #379
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mechie3 View Post
Maybe his concern is that someone will improperly do the 07 WRX air pump delete, cause problems, and place blame on him.
He never said anything about being worried about an improperly done delete.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rene2.5RS View Post
And he is refusing to tune based on cold start issues alone.
direct quote from my email:

"You do not understand what the air pump system does. I would rather not tune it. Sorry and good luck with it Jim.
Clark"
^
I do understand what the system does, I have read every single one of these threads for the last year and a half.

Last edited by EvileyeZ88; 03-09-2011 at 12:07 PM.
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Old 03-08-2011, 05:40 PM   #380
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I'm not questioning you knowing what the system is for.
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Old 03-08-2011, 05:44 PM   #381
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I'm not trying to speak for clark, but you have to take into account what he is up against. You get one customer that gives a negative review and it can undo a thousand positive reviews. When you are dealing with something like engine management, there are a million things that can go wrong and cause catastrophic damage. Now add the fact that he never gets to see the car with an e-tune, and you can clearly see why he's going to reject tuning a car he's not comfortable with.

If you want a tune, you gotta play by the tuners rules.
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Old 03-08-2011, 05:49 PM   #382
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rene2.5RS View Post
I'm not questioning you knowing what the system is for.
I know your not, sorry if it seemed that way. it was more of a response to what clark had said.
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Old 03-08-2011, 06:40 PM   #383
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I have the system removed on my '08 and my tuner was fine with it. Of course he knows me and knows I'm not going to whine to the internet about a race car. But if you need a local tuner, you get three guesses who I use.
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Old 03-08-2011, 06:40 PM   #384
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Originally Posted by fast06wrxtr View Post
If you want a tune, you gotta play by the tuners rules.
I'm not saying I don't want to play by his rules, but the fact is; people are doing this mod, they have not had problems with it, and they are going to need their car tuned for one reason or another.

Why wouldn't he want to broaden his range of knowledge and expertise?
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Old 03-08-2011, 11:33 PM   #385
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Thats his call, it seems like he is just covering himself in case something goes wrong later, he will not get the blame.

Anyway, if he said no, find someone else to do it, not like there is a shortage of talented tuners on this forum!
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Old 03-09-2011, 12:50 AM   #386
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lol took my tuner 1 min to go in and turn off all the codes, about 12 or so. there were NO CEL's thrown from removing everthing which i thought was weird but there turned off now. been down to 10 degrees or so and it starts perfect every single time. its really no big deal!
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Old 03-09-2011, 12:59 AM   #387
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Quote:
Originally Posted by synolimit View Post
lol took my tuner 1 min to go in and turn off all the codes, about 12 or so. there were NO CEL's thrown from removing everthing which i thought was weird but there turned off now. been down to 10 degrees or so and it starts perfect every single time. its really no big deal!
Yeah, all my physical stuff is still in place (well, except for some fuses) and it got into the teens here - my car sits outside - and zero starting/running issues. 15 codes deleted. Don't see how (on an 06 WRX) removing the gear and putting the plates on would be any different.

Evidently for later models or STI - there's a sensor that needs to be pulled out of one valve ??? Maybe that's where Mr. Turner got confused.
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Old 03-09-2011, 01:05 AM   #388
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ya my passanger side valve needed the sensor popped off the top and i just zip tied it down. the reason i think i threw no codes was because the sensor was plugged in and the pump and drive side valve only have a two prong connector. that just means a postive and a negative. so there was no sensor to say its not working. but i dont know, really not a big deal to chuck it.
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Old 03-09-2011, 01:08 AM   #389
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Quote:
Originally Posted by synolimit View Post
lol took my tuner 1 min to go in and turn off all the codes, about 12 or so. there were NO CEL's thrown from removing everthing which i thought was weird but there turned off now. been down to 10 degrees or so and it starts perfect every single time. its really no big deal!
not sure about the 2008+ wrx's, but if it were like the STI's and you removed all the hardware, you should be getting serious boost issues. The atmospheric pressure sensor is in the driver's side air inlet valve (see pictures earlier in this thread). If you removed that valve without scavenging the pressure sensor, the ECU will not be able to calculate boost. I suspect some people are removing the pump and the codes, but not digging in behind the heads to get the solenoid valves?
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Old 03-09-2011, 01:18 AM   #390
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not sure about the 2008+ wrx's, but if it were like the STI's and you removed all the hardware, you should be getting serious boost issues. The atmospheric pressure sensor is in the driver's side air inlet valve (see pictures earlier in this thread). If you removed that valve without scavenging the pressure sensor, the ECU will not be able to calculate boost. I suspect some people are removing the pump and the codes, but not digging in behind the heads to get the solenoid valves?
its the passanger side valve and read my post right above yours.
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Old 03-09-2011, 08:55 AM   #391
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1 Lucky Texan View Post

Evidently for later models or STI - there's a sensor that needs to be pulled out of one valve ???
07 STi has atmospheric pressure sensor embedded in top of valve. Fix is a simple matter of cutting it out so the sensor can be retained when the valve is removed.





EDIT:

After removal, I got a code because the sensor expects to see an increase in pressure when the blower is activated. I isolated the sensor in a tube on the blower outlet, then got a code for a stuck valve- too much pressure.

Yesterday, I passed state inspection because i created a vent in said tube so some blower motor pressure was venting to atmosphere and some was causing the sensor to see an increase in pressure, roughly 5psi ballpark.

Last edited by InfiniteMotorsports; 03-31-2011 at 05:14 PM.
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Old 03-09-2011, 09:31 AM   #392
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Quote:
Originally Posted by synolimit View Post
its the passanger side valve and read my post right above yours.
me = slow typer !

it was the passenger side valve on your wrx? it was driver's side on the sti. huh. I remember only because I have the sensor cable-tied to the driver's side intercooler bracket because that was the cleanest/coolest place I could reach with the available wiring harness length.
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Old 03-09-2011, 04:12 PM   #393
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You're doing yourself a favor deleting the air pump, because it's one more thing that can fail, and can fail with deadly results for your motor depending on how & when (if) it fails.
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Old 03-15-2011, 03:55 PM   #394
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Just a couple bits of info for anyone looking to do this on a 2011 STi (though I believe it should be the same for 08+ STi at least mechanically, the codes might be different).

There are 2 combination valves for both the WRX and the STi, though their mounting locations are different.

On the STi, the combination valve for the LH (driver's side) bank of cylinders is mounted to the back of the engine under the intercooler. The combination valve for the RH bank of cylinders has the integrated pressure sensor and is located under the intake manifold on the LH side of the engine.

On the WRX, the LH valve is located in the same place, but the RH valve is once again under the manifold, but on the RH side of the engine.

On a 2011, the codes that need to be de-activated are:

P0410
P0411
P0413
P0414
P0415
P0416
P0417
P0418
P1410
P1418
P2440
P2441
P2442
P2443
P2444

The following codes are relating to the function of the pressure sensor and I'm not positive if they need to be de-activated or not:

P2431
P2432
P2433

Last edited by msv; 03-15-2011 at 10:22 PM.
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Old 03-31-2011, 02:31 PM   #395
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so i have been searching through this thread and unless i overlooked it, i still have some questions. I have a CEL on p2441. secondary air injection system switching valve stuck closed bank 1. So if I remove this air pump assembly and everything, get the blocking plates, and delete the codes this will go away? Also, can I use a cobb accessport to remove the codes? and if so can I still go to stage 1 and stage 2 and everything with this remove? or will i need any additional tuning?
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Old 03-31-2011, 02:33 PM   #396
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also can anyone get me specific instructions for the 07 wrx? i found the guide for the sti but i read that the wrx has 2 valves or something?
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Old 03-31-2011, 02:39 PM   #397
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^Pm me

Last edited by EvileyeZ88; 03-31-2011 at 02:56 PM.
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Old 03-31-2011, 02:47 PM   #398
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zmcaspire View Post
so i have been searching through this thread and unless i overlooked it, i still have some questions. I have a CEL on p2441. secondary air injection system switching valve stuck closed bank 1. So if I remove this air pump assembly and everything, get the blocking plates, and delete the codes this will go away? Also, can I use a cobb accessport to remove the codes? and if so can I still go to stage 1 and stage 2 and everything with this remove? or will i need any additional tuning?
since it is stuck closed, you can just delete the codes and maybe pull a coupla fuses.

If you WANT, you can then remove the gear and install blocking plates.

I have no experience with the tuning part - but I see absolutely no issues that would affect that.

maybe someone else will comment.
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Old 04-02-2011, 06:07 PM   #399
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Quote:
Originally Posted by msv View Post
Just a couple bits of info for anyone looking to do this on a 2011 STi (though I believe it should be the same for 08+ STi at least mechanically, the codes might be different).

There are 2 combination valves for both the WRX and the STi, though their mounting locations are different.

On the STi, the combination valve for the LH (driver's side) bank of cylinders is mounted to the back of the engine under the intercooler. The combination valve for the RH bank of cylinders has the integrated pressure sensor and is located under the intake manifold on the LH side of the engine.

On the WRX, the LH valve is located in the same place, but the RH valve is once again under the manifold, but on the RH side of the engine.

On a 2011, the codes that need to be de-activated are:

P0410
P0411
P0413
P0414
P0415
P0416
P0417
P0418
P1410
P1418
P2440
P2441
P2442
P2443
P2444

The following codes are relating to the function of the pressure sensor and I'm not positive if they need to be de-activated or not:

P2431
P2432
P2433
08+ STI question:
So I just need to keep the bigger of the 2 plugs? Or do I need to recover both?
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Old 04-02-2011, 06:24 PM   #400
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Quick View Post
Yes, I did this exact thing when I pulled it off of my '09. It works perfectly
So the only thing you have from the Air pump assembly is the atmospheric pressure plug (big plug)? And NOT the other small plug?
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