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Old 02-16-2008, 03:37 AM   #1
dremersvision
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Default Bee*R limiter install

Please note:That this is only a how-to on installing the Bee*r limiter. Because it was so hard for me to find information on installing this thing on a suby i decided to do a write up.If you have any questions i will not mind answering them if i know the answer, have any comments please PM me, but i consider myself a newbie still when it comes down to this thing so i will try my best to help anywho
thanks eastcoastbumps(pete) for posting the link to the ecu diagram, that was a lifesaver. if needed here it is

http://www.msu.edu/~briggsj7/ecu.html

tools required
flat screw driver
phillips screw driver
10/12MM socket
solder/soldering wire
crimper
electrical tape
double sided tape etc.

1)first thing you need to do is disconnect the positive battery terminal
2) the ecu is located on the passenger side directly where your foot would rest if you were sitting down.
3) there are three screws that need to be removed in order to get to the ecu. One is located on the left side and the other two are are located on the right. These can be removed with a flat head screw driver.

two screws on the top right side.


screw to the left side



Once removed the carpet can be pulled back. A metal case will be exposed,underneath this cover is the ecu location.remove enough of the carpet so that you will have space to work. you need to remove 3 (12mm )bolts holding the cover and then there are 2 additional (12mm bolts) holding the bracket of the ecu itself.

cover


brackets of the ecu
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Last edited by dremersvision; 02-16-2008 at 04:33 AM. Reason: more info
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Old 02-16-2008, 03:58 AM   #2
dremersvision
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once you have removed the ecu from its location. the order is like this
right to left A,B,E,C,D
left to right D,C,E,B,A
If you are still having some issues figuring this out you can just count the pins
slot a=22 pins, slot b=28 pins, slot c=24 pins, d=31 pins and e=17 pins



series of pics with the wires connected






Last edited by dremersvision; 02-16-2008 at 04:35 AM. Reason: more info added
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Old 02-16-2008, 04:12 AM   #3
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the beer limiter? i think my limit is around 6-7 beers. dont need to install anything on my car to tell me how much to have

actual wtf you talkin about? some stand alone system?
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Old 02-16-2008, 04:19 AM   #4
dremersvision
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bee*r wires =========ECU wires-----pin
RED=12 volt---------> yellow/blue----d2/d3
Black=ground--------> black/white---c17/a22
Yellow=RPM/tach---->Green--------->C9
Green=ignition-------> Red---------> B1






after doing all of this check your wires, re-check your wires, did i mention that you should re-check the wires? go re-connect the battery.
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Old 02-16-2008, 04:22 AM   #5
ponamy
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im trying to figure out what your talking about, i comprehend your talking about the wires.....what does this "mod" do for you? what does bee*r stand for? wtf does it limit? clue me in
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Old 02-16-2008, 04:23 AM   #6
dremersvision
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set the bee-r to zero on rev one. by doing this the car will not let you rev over 2,5k rpm and the light on the device should be blinking.

if all works then. go back and put everything the way it was before you messed with it.

should look like this when you are done



this is where i have mine installed and that is because of the limiting amount of wire you get with this device.
NOTE: i used velcro to stick that together because just ordinary double sided tape did not work.


Last edited by dremersvision; 02-16-2008 at 04:26 AM. Reason: more info
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Old 02-16-2008, 04:31 AM   #7
dremersvision
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rev one determines your rpm 0-2,5k then goes up by 500rpm increments
rev two is for your launch control
gain 1-9 would be ==papapapapapa the letters would be pann----pannn(BANG)

NOTE: do not be close to the exhaust when doing this
a) flames do pop out.
b) the bang is louder then a gun shot.

i was told that this unit dont work until 5k rpm but i have found that that it will work even at 3k rpm, meaning you will still get the bang and popping noise.


hope this helps and if anyone have any questions please feel free to pm me.


Thanks

Henry
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Old 02-16-2008, 04:35 AM   #8
ponamy
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so it does nothing cept limit your revs to 2500 rpm aand makes a big bang?

this is what kind of mod? a noise maker/nothing doing for your carerer?

thanks for wasting my breath, that was an in depth explanation of a mod that does nothing. you just got me 3 posts
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Old 02-16-2008, 04:39 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ponamy View Post
the beer limiter? i think my limit is around 6-7 beers. dont need to install anything on my car to tell me how much to have

actual wtf you talkin about? some stand alone system?
Dude why dont you google BEE*R limiter.
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Old 02-16-2008, 04:42 AM   #10
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This is a How-To for those that will know what they are looking for. I am not a F'kin teacher nor will i spoon feed you. if that is what you are looking for then you are in the wrong place. there is freaking computer in front of you, use the thousands of search engines available.
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Old 02-16-2008, 04:43 AM   #11
ponamy
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why didnt you explain it in your uber description when i asked twice?

i was asking what it does, im a newb to the beer limiter and you dont want to help me....is this not the newb section? my take is it does nothing but make your car backfire at a certain rpm...yes or no?

Last edited by ponamy; 02-16-2008 at 04:56 AM.
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Old 02-16-2008, 04:58 AM   #12
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Old 02-16-2008, 06:10 AM   #13
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You came off as a total smart a that's why I posted that.

bee*r is used a lot by the nissan camp, many seem to use it overseas also. When you hit your rev limit on your car it cuts fuel, but bee*r cuts ignition while you still get fuel. In theory this is safer because "supposedly" harm won't be done to your engine and also the loud popping noise and after fire.

While looking it up I only heard of two or three stories of someone using it and their engine blowing but I read forums where people have been using this for well over a year and no problem, don't mistake this for an anti-lag unit because this is not anti lag.
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Old 02-16-2008, 10:08 AM   #14
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So heres the deal . . . we all know afterfire is horrible for your cats (if you have them) and your muffler, as it can break loose and bust up the media inside your muffler/cats. Its also pretty well known (at least from my research anyway) that a fuel cut is safer than an ignition cut, as there isn't unburnt fuel just chilling in the chamber or being forced out through a hot turbo causing it to ignite randomly.
If you want launch control and don't want obnoxious and dangerous fireballs shooting out of your exhaust, look into a fuel cut system, like what TinyWrex developed . . . and oh yeah, its free, and you dont have to splice into your ecu. my .02
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Old 02-16-2008, 12:43 PM   #15
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How is fuel cut better? Wouldn't that lean you out tremendously? I leaned a car out before and it was 2k dollars for to fix it. But hey whatever.
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Old 02-16-2008, 01:15 PM   #16
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Props for this write up.
Fuel cut not for any performance, Fuel cut is an enemy.
Launch control uses ignition cut but to a lesser extent then other devices such as the Bee*R rev limiter. However, the more "pops, bangs and fire" typically means the car is creating more boost while revving.
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Old 02-16-2008, 01:24 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dremersvision View Post
How is fuel cut better? Wouldn't that lean you out tremendously? I leaned a car out before and it was 2k dollars for to fix it. But hey whatever.
You're right that leaning out the engine can melt stuff, but cutting off ALL fuel will not make the car lean out, it will completly cut off combustion, which makes things cooler. Also, it is not usually a good idea to have fuel sitting in the combustion chambers not being burnt, this will tend to wash the thin oil coating off the cylinder walls, increasing wear. I'm not sure how much cylinder washing this device would allow to happen, but I could see some possible at least. The factory rev limit on all the cars i have dealt with use fuel cuts, if there was a great reliability advantage to the ignition cut some engineer would have implemented it long ago and we'd all have them. Also, you say that you've only heard of a couple blowing up there engine's with this thing, that would be reason enough for me to stay away from it! I've never heard of someone blowing there car up by hitting the fuel cut...that wasn't sitting on the rev-limiter for so long that they starved the engine of oil, or some other catastrophic event occurred.

From the little research I did on this thing, it seems like someone's attempt at making a poor man's anti-lag system that includes rev-limiting because it can. It has been said quite a few times before that if you are here looking for info on installing an anti-lag system, you most likely don't need one. They cause all kinds of damage to turbos, exhaust manifolds, and even engine heads in some cases. If you really do have a need for one, chances are you are part of a race team and have access to purpose built systems and people that have dealt with them before.

Last edited by NemesisWRX; 02-16-2008 at 01:28 PM. Reason: got my wording all screwed up!
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Old 02-17-2008, 08:58 AM   #18
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^^^^^^ completely understood, thanks for that and deffinately appreciate it.
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Old 04-02-2008, 04:37 PM   #19
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i cant believe people put this SHIIT on the cars!
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Old 04-02-2008, 04:48 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dremersvision View Post
This is a How-To for those that will know what they are looking for. I am not a F'kin teacher nor will i spoon feed you. if that is what you are looking for then you are in the wrong place. there is freaking computer in front of you, use the thousands of search engines available.
so you have a how-to but don't explain what the thing does? this is the first time i've ever heard of a bee*r limiter...and it doesn't seem interesting enough to google.

Quote:
Originally Posted by dremersvision
If you have any questions i will not mind answering them if i know the answer
maybe you should remove that from your op..
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Old 05-15-2008, 07:20 PM   #21
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Default Solution for the green wire (ignition signal)

After a lot of research and Japanese translation I was able to figure out how to wire the Green Wire in correctly so that this device works, since the camshaft signal doesnt work and the crankshaft signal will give you a ****ty rev. All this is explained below.

Rev Limiter

What you will need....
-Some 18 gauge wire
-Butt connectors
-4 (four) 600V 1a Diodes
-Quick connect wire clamps
-ECU pinouts for specific model car, www.northursalia.com has these...

Starting from the Green wire, branch of 4 more wires. These wires will be connected to the Ignition Signal on your ECU (4 yellow wires all in a row on one of the plugs, please refer to ECU pinouts for your specific model).

On EACH on these 4 wires, you need to connect in a 600V 1a Diode in the direction TOWARDS the Bee*R device. One wire goes to Ignition signal # 1 on the ECU, and so on for the rest... It's pretty simple. Use your quick connect wire clamps to make this connection.



Close up The silver stripe shows the "Cathode" or direction of Diode, In this case, the direction is too the left




Basic Diagram:



Green Wire --->--->Wire 1 with Diode (<--- ) in that direction --->---> Igniton Signal #1 on ECU
--->--->Wire 2 with Diode (<--- ) in that direction --->---> Igniton Signal #2 on ECU
--->--->Wire 3 with Diode (<--- ) in that direction --->---> Igniton Signal #3 on ECU
--->--->Wire 4 with Diode (<--- ) in that direction --->---> Igniton Signal #4 on ECU




Launch Control:

Now you can use the White wire (REV 2) to set up Launch Control. Do this by extending the White wire enough distance to reach the Clutch pedal (5 feet is good, make sure you have some slack.



Now weave the wire behind your dash (stereo,ac,etc..) and connect it to the Clutch Signal (+). There are two wires the connect to the Clutch switch above the Clutch pedal, the one on the bottom is black (-) and the one on top is Green (+) I believe (pretty dark up there, hard to tell). Use one of your quick connect wire clamps and connect the white wire to the Green wire (top).

Now that everything is wired in, check and recheck your wiring, refer to the above posts on what to do with the other wires. Set REV 1/2 to Zero (0) on the Bee*R device, it won't let you rev above 2500 rpms and the red light on the device will flash.



Launch Control can be used by setting REV 2 to your desired launch rpm (example: 4500 rpms) and REV 1 can be set to your basic rev limiter.
NOTE: This will allow you to do Flat Foot Shifting also, since REV 2 is activated when you push in the Clutch. Enjoy!



Be careful when using this, it does shoot flames, and they are loud, very very loud if you increase your gain. Watch out for police and don't use this in residential neighborhoods. Have fun and be safe with this.

-Matt
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Old 05-16-2008, 04:34 AM   #22
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This was needed and completes this install. thanks for figuring it out Matt.
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Old 10-29-2008, 12:43 PM   #23
RSblood
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Flat foot shifting FTW!!!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4qW7m7LbpsM




And Rev limiter set to 4k

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Old 10-29-2008, 01:04 PM   #24
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id rather get a real anti lag system.
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Old 10-29-2008, 01:09 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by young j View Post
id rather get a real anti lag system.
Anti-lag is much more $$$ and will kill your car around the clock
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