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Old 06-14-2010, 12:41 PM   #51
evoeater1
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Yea, "Sick" Mine made a similar noise when i slung #3 rod
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Old 06-25-2010, 07:43 PM   #52
ScoobyDoo69er
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Strange enough, on my 04 STi it don't cut as low as 2.5k, does that mean something isn't installed right? I use it as launch control and it builds 13psi on the Defis, but no pops and bangs..

Do the resistors need to be used? On the install instructions I had, they weren't mentioned..

EDIT - I lie, I do have resistors in there, but still no pops and bangs at any revs etc.

Last edited by ScoobyDoo69er; 06-27-2010 at 03:45 PM.
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Old 10-28-2010, 11:46 AM   #53
LOWEST
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I know it's an old thread, but what's your gain set to? I assume you tried the full range.

If you rev2 set for e-break or clutch activation?
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Old 11-02-2010, 09:34 PM   #54
agryguc
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I am having issues with the ignition signal for the BEE*R wiring. The tach signal and the switchable REV 2 both work great, the blinking light works at the desired REV1 and REV2, and the gain works fine. The only problem is I cant get it to actually ground the coil and cut ignition.

Like I said I am running an EMU, so I tapped the ignition signal for the BEE*R to the ignition control out signal from the EMU (cylinders #1,2 and #3,4 group iginition) When it is wired like this the motor wont start (no spark whatsoever), but with the ignition signal wire from the BEE*R disconnected it runs fine (but obviously does not cut ignition). I think there is a grounding issue due to a shared ground (or lack thereof) between the ECU and the emanage, so right now I cannot get it to selectivley ground the coil, (when I have it hooked up the coil is always grounded and the motor will not start.

This is a ecu pinout with the signals I am using for the ignition (in the black rectange.)


Does anyone know a better place to tap the ignition signal?
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Old 04-21-2011, 12:37 PM   #55
~Touge/Wangan-
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i know this will end up reviving the thread from the dead, but. i installed my bee*r into my 2002 wrx yesterday and find that the rev no matter what the gain is at, seems wimpy and not as agressive as rsblood's wrx. i used the diode and split ignition signal method. theres a noticible change when i adjust the gain, but no fireballs, no back fires, and not as much boost is being built as i expected.

ideas guys?
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Old 04-21-2011, 12:52 PM   #56
Bo0stin5STI
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Last edited by Bo0stin5STI; 04-21-2011 at 01:06 PM.
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Old 04-21-2011, 12:56 PM   #57
Bo0stin5STI
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Oh, for those wondering, look at the exhaust housing:

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Old 04-23-2011, 02:15 AM   #58
~Touge/Wangan-
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ~Touge/Wangan- View Post
i know this will end up reviving the thread from the dead, but. i installed my bee*r into my 2002 wrx yesterday and find that the rev no matter what the gain is at, seems wimpy and not as agressive as rsblood's wrx. i used the diode and split ignition signal method. theres a noticible change when i adjust the gain, but no fireballs, no back fires, and not as much boost is being built as i expected.

ideas guys?
anyone?!
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Old 04-26-2011, 09:18 PM   #59
CorbinUSAF
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Is there anyway for someone to do a writeup for a "proper" install start to finish? I just re-read this for like the 5th time and I want to wire it up correctly the 1st time without any problems.
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Old 04-27-2011, 05:04 AM   #60
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CorbinUSAF View Post
Is there anyway for someone to do a writeup for a "proper" install start to finish? I just re-read this for like the 5th time and I want to wire it up correctly the 1st time without any problems.
The pictures made life a lot easier and i have no idea where they went. I am going to try and find the pictures. They are either in photobucket or putfile. RSBLOOD and i worked a lot together and Before i sold the car i realized that his car reacted different then my car did using the same install method. splitting the ignition wires and slapping on diodes did nothing for my setup but it worked well for his setup.

Again, i am going to try and find the pictures and post them up.
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Old 04-27-2011, 06:10 AM   #61
ammodawg79
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Quote:
Originally Posted by young j View Post
id rather get a real anti lag system.
I would rather know how to drive without needing gimmicks. Bet this "mod" won't garner any extra attention by the cops, ha ha.
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Old 04-27-2011, 08:21 AM   #62
RSblood
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Will update the thread on once I'm near a computer next (on iPhone).
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Old 04-29-2011, 02:11 AM   #63
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Hi, I tell you my story with Bee-R. Car is 2002 STI 2.0 litre (bug eye, european version). I wired it as stated in 3rd post, so green wire lead to CRANKSHAFT signal+. Seems it worked, it makes sometimes pops, no flames. It also makes a boost. But when I release clutch engine almost stalls, like it was overfueled or something like this. So it loose revs for a second and then it goes up again. Same story when flatshifting. When you finish shift and release the clutch there is again lag and after a second its going ok.
So I will try settings with diodes, but to be honest, it is not so clear for me how to hook it up. In my opinion cathodes should be opposite side.
So please share pictures. Thanks

Vladimir
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Old 04-30-2011, 01:02 AM   #64
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I decided to try wiring with diodes. In local store they did not have 600V, but 1000V, so I take them. It worked. Now when I change GAIN to D it cuts really fast like papapapapa. No flames or bangs from exhaust. Also it makes less boost, but now I can launch without that lag. Now it works.
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Old 04-30-2011, 11:24 AM   #65
vision.dynamix
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bo0stin5STI View Post
and this kids is why you use 4 10k lb straps per end (8 total) to strap the car to the dyno...those straps they were using looked like 1" straps...
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Old 05-06-2011, 11:11 AM   #66
RSblood
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Not sure why I keep getting PM's to clear things up in this thread for this install. It's pretty straight forward and it seems that everyone who has done EXACTLY what I did in my post has it working now.

You don't want to use Resistors, you want DIODES. To control the flow of current. Resistors will probably just make it not work as good.

Also, keep in mind that for some reason the Gain is reversed for our cars. I believe Bee*R states that 1 is the fastest and F is slowest. But for our cars, Gains E and F are the fastest.
If you want to shoot flames, try setting Gain to E or F and set REV2 to 3000 rpms, seems to dump a lot of fuel at this rpm. Although I found 4500 rpms best for building boost at the drag strip.



Quote:
Originally Posted by LadisWRC View Post
I decided to try wiring with diodes. In local store they did not have 600V, but 1000V, so I take them. It worked. Now when I change GAIN to D it cuts really fast like papapapapa. No flames or bangs from exhaust. Also it makes less boost, but now I can launch without that lag. Now it works.
Another success story from following my write up. The reason it makes less boost is because it's cutting ignition faster and has less resistance. A slower cut gives the turbo more time to spool up between ignition cuts.
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Old 05-06-2011, 11:14 AM   #67
RSblood
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Looks like you went to the dark side also and bought a red European car, nice!! Love those M3's, but the S4 is hands down better in the long run for power potential

<---- Got a wotbox (2step/LC) on the S4 now, I missed it too damn much from the Subie.




Quote:
Originally Posted by dremersvision View Post
The pictures made life a lot easier and i have no idea where they went. I am going to try and find the pictures. They are either in photobucket or putfile. RSBLOOD and i worked a lot together and Before i sold the car i realized that his car reacted different then my car did using the same install method. splitting the ignition wires and slapping on diodes did nothing for my setup but it worked well for his setup.

Again, i am going to try and find the pictures and post them up.
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Old 05-06-2011, 11:30 AM   #68
CorbinUSAF
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I got mine installed. Just follow the 1st writeup until you get to the green Bee*R wire. Then follow RSblood's portion with the diodes.
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Old 05-26-2011, 12:37 PM   #69
Adamthomas625
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I just got mine installed. Took me 2 days of messing with it to finally get it to work. I tried every way possible. I found out that I did it right the first time. But one of the diodes were bad, causing a misfire. I did it exactly the way this write up is and it worked(with working diodes). So if this didnt work for you the first time, try replacing the diodes from the green beer wire to the 4 yellow ignition wires on the ecu. the diodes do point TOWARDS the beer. lol
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Old 05-26-2011, 06:30 PM   #70
RSblood
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lol, hours and hours of translating japanese paid off i guess...
Lot's of success stories from our write ups! Post videos too!
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Old 05-27-2011, 12:27 AM   #71
WhatTurboLag?
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videos would be great


is the ECU/pinouts the same on the 06 WRX? thats my only worry so far. i havent had the time/funds/need/care to buy one yet but it is nice to know when i do get it.


plan on having one set at 6000RPM as my actual limiter, then one on the clutch or ebrake as launch control/FFS(on clutch only)
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Old 05-29-2011, 11:23 PM   #72
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I sell these and just helped walk a member through installation and thought I could help some others. RSBlood, great write up. I hope this will help end some of the pm's you are getting. The basics, the primary on the coil get power all the time. The computer controls the ground side. The computer will ground the coil for only a few milliseconds, when the ground is released the field collapses and the secondary fires the spark plug. The bee-r keeps the coil grounded preventing the secondary from firing the plug. Older cars use one ignition signal wire (controlled ground) for the system. The wrx has coil on plug thus 4 separate ignition signal wires.
Diodes are used to keep the 4 ignition signals separate. Think of a diode as a check valve for electricity. It will allow current to flow in one direction but not the other. If you hook the green wire straight to the 4 ignition signal wires, every time the ecu grounds one wire it will ground them all. This will cause all the coils to fire every time the ecu grounds one coil, lots of misfires, poor spark intensity, etc.
The diodes are installed so current can flow to the bee-r. This enables the bee-r to ground all 4 coils to prevent ignition. At the same time, when one coil grounds under normal conditions it prevents the other coils from back feeding to that ground.
Diagnosing problems. If you wire the unit properly, like rsblood, it should work fine. If you start the car and it is skipping without being on the limiter, cut the single green wire before it is split into 4. If the car still skips you have a problem with the diodes or wires touching each other. If the car runs properly after cutting the single green wire, you have a problem with the yellow rpm signal or an internal problem with the bee-r unit. Remember, 1 bad diode will cause all 4 coils to ground every time the ecu grounds to fires that cylinder. Hope that helps, if you are interested in purchasing a unit or have other questions send me a pm.
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Old 06-01-2011, 02:03 AM   #73
BLACK-OUT
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So I installed my Bee R Limiter just the way you explained but I am running into a few issues, I am going to re check my wiring tomorrow.

I wired it like this..

Grey Wire on Bee R Box is cut.
Bee R Wire..........ECU Wire
Red Power..........D3 Yellow Blue
Black Ground.......C17 Black and White
White Switch......Green Wire above the black wire on neutral safety switch
Yellow Tach Signal...... C9 Which on Mine I think its Red?
Green Ignition... it goes..

Green Wire>>18Gauge Wire>><<Diode>>Wire>>Ignition Signal 1
Green Wire>>18Gauge Wire>><<Diode>>Wire>>Ignition Signal 2
Green Wire>>18Gauge Wire>><<Diode>>Wire>>Ignition Signal 3
Green Wire>>18Gauge Wire>><<Diode>>Wire>>Ignition Signal 4

So it all flows like it should.

Here is my issue.

I have everything set currently to

Rev1=0
Rev2=0
Gain=0

I can start the car and it runs and drives normal. The second the car is running and I turn the Gain to anything like 1 or F, the red light comes on and it kills the car and it shuts off. But if I put it back to 0 the light goes off and I can start the car again.

I am going to recheck of my wiring. I used the vampire connectors. and everything like the right up.

Maybe they didn't penetrate fully on some of them. I am not sure. Just looking for your input.

Thanks
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Old 06-01-2011, 12:50 PM   #74
BLACK-OUT
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Never mind.. I had the tach wire wrong.. all fixed and works now..
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Old 06-02-2011, 01:12 AM   #75
BLACK-OUT
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http://youtu.be/g_mCdannaow

Gain is on E, Launch Control set at 3(3000 RPMS)
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