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Old 05-08-2012, 09:42 PM   #1
paulpat
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So i saw faq about the diy fuel rail mod and i would like to do this but the supplimental threads seam lost and dead.

What is the special adapter to make the fpr work? What is the best way for the 2.0 guys?


Im doing this because i want to go stage 2 what ever that is but i would like to do a big turbo in a few years. I figure do this while upgrading injectors and tgv deletes.
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Old 05-08-2012, 10:05 PM   #2
Unabomber
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You figure wrong. The power level that this mod necessitates will blow your motor to the sky in 4 seconds and should ONLY be done after you have built your motor and are well north of 400 WHP.
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Old 05-08-2012, 10:58 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Unabomber View Post
You figure wrong. The power level that this mod necessitates will blow your motor to the sky in 4 seconds and should ONLY be done after you have built your motor and are well north of 400 WHP.
+all the points

Removing your factory fuel lines/rails requires you to remove your intake manifold. People say it can be done without removing the manifold but it doesn't sound like that would make it easier.

Turbo and injector/fuel pump swaps are done without removing the intake manifold. While installing tgv deletes does mean removing the intake mani, theres no reason to mess with the fuel system as Unabomber explained.

Stage 2 is just exhaust work and reflash.

Last edited by BBarnes1; 05-08-2012 at 10:59 PM. Reason: im silly
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Old 05-08-2012, 11:07 PM   #4
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I already have the intake manifold off and and dremeling out the tgvs. Got the IM off in 2 hours and some. I know it is not neccesary but while i have the IM off why not do it. I know its a myth about cylinder 3 but it couldnt hurt. Putting in dw 650 injectors and an ebcs.


About the trans, i just got out of school and looking for a job before im off to grad school. Anyone need a civil engineer? 5 k for a 6speed mt should be cake. Engine work will be done after i have the sti trans.

Last edited by paulpat; 05-09-2012 at 01:41 AM.
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Old 05-09-2012, 10:36 AM   #5
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Def a LOT easier with the intake manifold off. Its not something you're going to notice power from but Ive done this on several cars and agree with the cyl 3 thing for safety's sake.
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Old 05-09-2012, 11:01 AM   #6
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y not just buy an sti if that kind of money is cake? start with a better platform if ur gana build a race car. ur also gana want the brembos, and everything else an sti has over a wrx
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Old 05-09-2012, 11:28 AM   #7
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that money is going to be cake, not yet. I am still a starving soon to be grad student with a little bit of money. Besides something is just special with the bugeyes. Dont get me wrong, when I can I will buy a Aspen White sti hawkeye for my dad and drive it most of the time.
I have the brembos, h6 with the mc brace and lines.

Anyways, the DIY parralel fuel line mod...

insaneimpreza. What special fuel line adapter did you use to relocate the FPR?
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Old 02-12-2019, 01:08 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Unabomber View Post
You figure wrong. The power level that this mod necessitates will blow your motor to the sky in 4 seconds and should ONLY be done after you have built your motor and are well north of 400 WHP.
Soo... Sorry to awaken a dead thread, but if I have Manley forged internals on King race bearings and just built up my motor, am installing a bigger fuel pump and bigger injectors, in preparation for a bigger turbo in the near future (injectors might wait until I have said turbo), I still shouldn't do a parallel fuel rail mod until after all of this and only after I'm making 400+ whp? What are the downsides to running a modified and potentially safer (for cylinder 3) fuel rail set up? I don't understand how the changing the oem to parallel could hurt anything... Sorry if I'm just dumb and missing the why, but I'm legitimately confused here.
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Old 02-12-2019, 07:38 AM   #9
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Originally Posted by SleepingWrex View Post
Soo... Sorry to awaken a dead thread, but if I have Manley forged internals on King race bearings and just built up my motor, am installing a bigger fuel pump and bigger injectors, in preparation for a bigger turbo in the near future (injectors might wait until I have said turbo), I still shouldn't do a parallel fuel rail mod until after all of this and only after I'm making 400+ whp? What are the downsides to running a modified and potentially safer (for cylinder 3) fuel rail set up? I don't understand how the changing the oem to parallel could hurt anything... Sorry if I'm just dumb and missing the why, but I'm legitimately confused here.


His response was a bit hyperbolic just to make a point. 400hp can easily be done on factory fuel lines and rails. If you want to run parallel fuel rails and lines then do so. Just know it isn’t necessary. Use an OEM FPR or and after market FPR adjusted similarly to what the OEM base pressure is. Granted these changes could affect some of how the engine runs, but it shouldn’t be enough of a change to matter much. The most important point is to be sure to not change injectors until you are getting the car tuned.
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Old 02-12-2019, 09:15 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bp05obxt View Post
His response was a bit hyperbolic just to make a point. 400hp can easily be done on factory fuel lines and rails. If you want to run parallel fuel rails and lines then do so. Just know it isn’t necessary. Use an OEM FPR or and after market FPR adjusted similarly to what the OEM base pressure is. Granted these changes could affect some of how the engine runs, but it shouldn’t be enough of a change to matter much. The most important point is to be sure to not change injectors until you are getting the car tuned.
I'm changing injectors cuz my tuner maxed out my light blues at 100% duty cycle and I'm still not where I want to be. I'm talking to my tuner about whether or not I should just wait until I get the turbo or do it now. Thanks for the info
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Old 02-12-2019, 03:11 PM   #11
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to answer the question about using the OE 1:1 rail mounted FPR:

Radiumauto.com offeres an adapter that is 3/8 npt to the o-ring flange OE FPR. they also offer an adjustable FPR upgrade ($200+) that inserts inplace of the OE FPR.. every imaginable combo.

I am running the first adapter that allows me to retain the OE FPR on upgraded lines and rails.

The key difference between the typically coarse and terse NASIOC replies from back in 2012 to now? My OE hardlines on the bottom of the intake developed a cracks at a brazing points. I HAD to take the intake off to either swap/repair or upgrade no matter what. Raw fuel on a hot EJ is bad ju-ju.

I did parallel system with torque solutions rails and nylon braided lines to the OE 5/16" hard lines. I built my own custom fuel distribution blocks. I did TGV deletes, phenolic spacers, har turbo inlet, cleaned up the wiring, fixed (2) stripped block thread bosses (thanks Subaru of Plano, TX!) and a bunch of general maintanence

I look at it as growing room and overall, I spent maybe 10-15% more $$ to what it would have cost me to order all new OE hardlines, get the proper fuel barrier hose, the clamps etc. An then still have to fight it when I wanted to upgrade to bigger injectors. And then the possibility that stage 2-3+ wasn't enough? easier, cheaper, fasher and yeah I admit it, it looks cool. Sue me.

Done One time, done, move on. any upgrades I'd ever do to this 2.0L or even a 2.5L or 2.5/2.0 hybrid are totally covered, fuel wise.

~Rob
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