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Old 09-05-2017, 02:41 PM   #29701
DieselDorf
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Thought it would be easier. I'm not putting it on 24 as of now so just need to get to a cigarette lighter.
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Old 09-05-2017, 02:50 PM   #29702
supertoast
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I was able to put it on the 12/24V fuse box circuit with a hardwire kit I picked up on Amazon (basically a much smaller power adapter with an add-a-fuse). Converts down to the 5V requirement for the camera. There are a few empty spots on the box, I found one tied to the accessory key.

You might be able to just tuck it behind the pillar like the head liner, but I found it too difficult without popping the cover off.
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Old 09-05-2017, 04:33 PM   #29703
DieselDorf
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I just thought going through glovebox to the center would be easier than drivers side.

I'll probs do drivers side in case I want permanent power later on.
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Old 09-05-2017, 05:05 PM   #29704
CalTech87
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DieselDorf View Post
I just thought going through glovebox to the center would be easier than drivers side.

I'll probs do drivers side in case I want permanent power later on.
If youre set on coming down the windshield then the suggested method is probably best. I routed my bluetooth microphone along the headliner then down the A pillar, through the dash, etc.

Good luck!
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Old 09-05-2017, 06:47 PM   #29705
DieselDorf
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So what's the procedure for a pillar removal? Just rip? Which side should I start pulling from?

Don't want to break anything.
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Old 09-05-2017, 07:46 PM   #29706
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The plastic cover? Just pull. You'll need the speaker grille off though.
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Old 09-06-2017, 12:34 AM   #29707
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DieselDorf View Post
I'm getting a dash cam in this week and wondering if anyone has routed theirs to either of the 12v outlets.

I'm wondering best way to get to them without wires dangling or showing.

So headliner is easy but should I go through glovebox to the center console?

Also how do I remove the a pillar without messing with the airbag, or can I just tuck the wire under the side without removing the a pillar?
I hardwired mine directly to the fuse box with an add-a-fuse. It will be MUCH MUCH easier than routing it to either 12v outlets.

The little side panel (
) number 4, will pop right off, giving you easy access to the fusebox, and a place to manage your wiring.

On the a-pillar, there's a little plastic square cube thing near the top. Pry it with a plastic credit card, and it's a, I believe, 10mm bolt. Unscrew it and pull the a-piller trim up and away from the a-pillar. Now you can route your wiring.

You can tuck the wiring in, but I would be concerned about the wire being in the way of the airbag if it were to ever deploy.
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Old 09-06-2017, 01:28 PM   #29708
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Quote:
Originally Posted by theoutbackdream View Post
On the a-pillar, there's a little plastic square cube thing near the top. Pry it with a plastic credit card, and it's a, I believe, 10mm bolt.
You don't actually need to pry that out, the base will twist and you can spin it around to undo the hook holding the a pillar cover.

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Old 09-06-2017, 03:11 PM   #29709
DieselDorf
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Perfect vid thanks for that.
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Old 09-08-2017, 01:59 PM   #29710
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How much weight do you guys think you could save on a 2012-2014 2.0i if you went all out and shed every ounce you could without removing difficult-to-impossible to replace components?

You'd save many pounds to start by removing the inner door panels and the speakers. A few more pounds by removing floor mats, a few more by removing rear seats, a few more by removing the rear cargo area carpet board (referring to hatch only here in this post), a few more by removing all unnecessary plastic panels around the cabin, probably 15-25 by removing the spare tire plus all related equipment in the trunk area, 42+ pounds by only ever running the tank half full max when possible, remove the muffler and replace with a bent pipe at the end who knows maybe 10 pounds?

I'm not sure what changing from say a 25 pound steel wheel to a 16 pound forged/cast aluminum wheel would do. The wheel companies like to claim every pound saved on the wheel is like 20 pounds or some ridiculous **** from the body of the car, but I don't believe that for a second. Let's say it's like saving maybe 50 pounds to go from super heavy steels to quality forged race wheels?

I could see 200-300 pounds out of the car if you remove everything possible without getting into insane **** like window motor removal or HVAC removal. Probably would shave a fifth of a second off the 60 and give you an extra 2 hundredths of a lateral g on handling tests... probably not worth it.
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Old 09-08-2017, 03:11 PM   #29711
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drpoop View Post
How much weight do you guys think you could save on a 2012-2014 2.0i if you went all out and shed every ounce you could without removing difficult-to-impossible to replace components?

You'd save many pounds to start by removing the inner door panels and the speakers. A few more pounds by removing floor mats, a few more by removing rear seats, a few more by removing the rear cargo area carpet board (referring to hatch only here in this post), a few more by removing all unnecessary plastic panels around the cabin, probably 15-25 by removing the spare tire plus all related equipment in the trunk area, 42+ pounds by only ever running the tank half full max when possible, remove the muffler and replace with a bent pipe at the end who knows maybe 10 pounds?

I'm not sure what changing from say a 25 pound steel wheel to a 16 pound forged/cast aluminum wheel would do. The wheel companies like to claim every pound saved on the wheel is like 20 pounds or some ridiculous **** from the body of the car, but I don't believe that for a second. Let's say it's like saving maybe 50 pounds to go from super heavy steels to quality forged race wheels?

I could see 200-300 pounds out of the car if you remove everything possible without getting into insane **** like window motor removal or HVAC removal. Probably would shave a fifth of a second off the 60 and give you an extra 2 hundredths of a lateral g on handling tests... probably not worth it.


That sounds about right. But I must say, losing a lb on wheels will have a huge impact at high speed.

Imagine running while holding a 5 gallon water bottle each hand vs strapped on ankle. Or just on waist.
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Old 09-08-2017, 04:58 PM   #29712
Ladeef
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Quote:
Originally Posted by binnkim View Post
That sounds about right. But I must say, losing a lb on wheels will have a huge impact at high speed.

Imagine running while holding a 5 gallon water bottle each hand vs strapped on ankle. Or just on waist.
Rotating weight has a greater effect on the vehicle than sprung weight, laws of physics my man. It's more evident on a motorcycle where the wheels represent more of the total weight of the vehicle.
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Old 09-08-2017, 09:11 PM   #29713
flyboy1100
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Default 2012 Impreza thread

New tensioner




Old tensioner



I should have got video of old tensioner before bearings though, it was even worse
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Old 09-08-2017, 09:16 PM   #29714
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Someone is going to call me insane but... any ideas where you could stick a smaller train horn kit in this car? I'm guessing you'd have to roof mount the true train horns from companies like Nathan, but the cheaper kits have some relatively compact horns. But still huge compared to a normal car horn.
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Old 09-11-2017, 09:29 AM   #29715
DieselDorf
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so how do I get my dash cam wire from the a pillar to the fuse box? Can I go down through the speaker hole?
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Old 09-11-2017, 10:25 AM   #29716
milkydaddy3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drpoop View Post
Someone is going to call me insane but... any ideas where you could stick a smaller train horn kit in this car? I'm guessing you'd have to roof mount the true train horns from companies like Nathan, but the cheaper kits have some relatively compact horns. But still huge compared to a normal car horn.
Maybe not insane, it can be done. My guess would be somewhere behind the bumper. A +15 STI from Cars and Coffee earlier this year had one mounted from inside the bumper, loudest horn I've heard peeling off.
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Old 09-11-2017, 12:37 PM   #29717
drpoop
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DieselDorf View Post
so how do I get my dash cam wire from the a pillar to the fuse box? Can I go down through the speaker hole?
No, well maybe but don't. Run it down the back of the pillar, pull up the weatherstripping, and just run the wire in the crack the weather stripping normally covers up. I have a few wires going through there currently.
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Old 09-13-2017, 09:03 PM   #29718
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Well ****. Apparently the shop that repaired my car several years ago did a really sketchy probably illegal job on the lower bumper brackets. Where it attaches to the actual bumper (the metal part), they broke the bolts that hold the bracket down, and drilled 2 crappy holes through the thin metal to the side of each bolt, and then proceeded to use only one self tapping screw on one side of the bracket...

Probably no way to salvage the seized and broken bolts from the bumper without having a lot of patience and a good tap set, so now my bumper cover is doomed to be eternally floppy. I guess if I wanted to make it someone else's problem I could just attach the bracket to the metal with like JB weld. No reason it should ever have to come off except in a collision, in which case they (repair place) have a lot more to worry about than a plastic bracket epoxied to a piece of metal.
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Old 09-14-2017, 09:33 AM   #29719
DieselDorf
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So I got my dash cam going and it's real nice. I went to take the micro SD card out and it launched and fell down somewhere in between the back of the steering wheel cover and the instrument cluster.

I got the cover off that is behind the steering wheel covering the wires and telescopic moving parts but I didn't see it.

So I'm thinking I might have to take the bottom plastic piece off down where the knee airbag is, anyone do this before?

I know there's a screw on the right side but I don't see anything else. I'd rather not remove this panel cause of the airbag but it looks like I have no choice.
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Old 09-14-2017, 12:07 PM   #29720
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https://www.instagram.com/p/BZAlGJ5gRSE/ autocrossing a fb20. Who is this? Dope for sure.
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Old 09-14-2017, 12:36 PM   #29721
supertoast
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Hey @Pelco, I remember reading about how you tend to lean towards driving in CVT manual mode a lot. I've found lately I lean towards M mode more often if I'm out for a short drive.

When you upshift, have you tried letting off the gas while the CVT shifts to the next ratio? I noticed it gets rid of the surge forward I get otherwise. I wonder if that also means less stress on the CVT? It's the closest I can get to the sound/feel of a 5MT, with A CVT

It's interesting how the surge doesn't happen when in D and it goes though Subaru's silly stepping program on the 2015+ MY.

I know I know, it's still an automatic. But if I'm bored, I'm bored. And it makes driving 1% more engaging. Hehe
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Old 09-14-2017, 12:45 PM   #29722
milkydaddy3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pelco View Post
https://www.instagram.com/p/BZAlGJ5gRSE/ autocrossing a fb20. Who is this? Dope for sure.
Interested to know as well. As soon as I saw that on fb20society, I followed him. Looking forward to future videos on the track.
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Old 09-14-2017, 12:48 PM   #29723
DieselDorf
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I only use the upshift paddle when going down hills for some stupid reason my car keeps trying to stay in 5th going downhill. Makes no sense
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Old 09-14-2017, 01:00 PM   #29724
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DieselDorf View Post
I only use the upshift paddle when going down hills for some stupid reason my car keeps trying to stay in 5th going downhill. Makes no sense
Do you have a tune?
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Old 09-14-2017, 01:03 PM   #29725
DieselDorf
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No, it doesn't happen all the time just at certain speeds
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