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Old 07-28-2018, 08:48 PM   #51
00_imprezaoutback
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Originally Posted by CarmelValleyWRX View Post
you can buy some plugs from rockauto for about 8 bucks. i dont think iridium is worth the money. its a good idea to change the plugs once in a while on a modded out car anyway so iridium lasting 100k miles doesn't matter for us.
But youíd recommend one step colder? The only mods as of right now are the full 3Ē turbo back exhaust (cobb). Also did the wrx come standard with a short throw shifter? Also I desperately need a new shift knob and possible steering wheel or I was thinking of getting some gun grip stuff my aunts a cop and used it on her pick-up truck cause the leather on the steering wheel was I guess peeling off. Iíd rather get a new wheel with I guess a quick release hub nothing flashy or ďfast and furiousĒ 90ís themed wheel lol. I looked at this spec-d momo wheel itís a 320mm I donít know I just canít stand the steering wheel peeling off on my hand every time I turn the damn thing.
[url="http://https://www.sparktecmotorsports.com/sw-106rs.html?utm_source=googlepepla&utm_medium=adwor ds&id=384670177862&gclid=Cj0KCQjwnNvaBRCmARIsAOfZ q-2CjSJH4MmWXxSNI1UZaXJun6_Peu5jo6GSYpodAggonv0QDDEX CckaAhN0EALw_wcB"]
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Old 07-28-2018, 08:54 PM   #52
snow_bound26
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There's people that you can buy new leather wrap for your steering wheel from. Can't remember company names though. Found through google myself. I'd recommend a shift knob from Lathewerks. Great stuff. Anarchy Motive is another option. I have one myself but have had issues with the powder coat chipping. But it's heavy and shifts smooth. Short throw shifter was an option. If you get an after market wheel you'll need to disable the SRS system. I'm sure there's a write on here somewhere for how to do that
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Old 07-28-2018, 09:08 PM   #53
CarmelValleyWRX
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run the stock heat range for now. once you up the power output a bit colder plugs are good.
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Old 07-28-2018, 09:15 PM   #54
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There's people that you can buy new leather wrap for your steering wheel from. Can't remember company names though. Found through google myself. I'd recommend a shift knob from Lathewerks. Great stuff. Anarchy Motive is another option. I have one myself but have had issues with the powder coat chipping. But it's heavy and shifts smooth. Short throw shifter was an option. If you get an after market wheel you'll need to disable the SRS system. I'm sure there's a write on here somewhere for how to do that
Sweet thanks. I think the srs in the steering wheel is already disabled one because the srs/air bag lights on and two because it feels, and looks like the airbag isnít in the center lol weird cause Their was no accident with this car I was really thinking of going with a new wheel that one I found is like $40 bucks and I figure Iíd have to get a hub for it to work. I gotta look more into it. I know it sounds cheap but could I just get some generic universal weighted or heavier shift knob off amazon or eBay? I know the shifter is a M12x1.25 or 1.5 I have it in my notes. I found one on amazon I liked that was a little taller and says itís heavier.
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Old 07-28-2018, 09:16 PM   #55
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run the stock heat range for now. once you up the power output a bit colder plugs are good.
Ok then Iíll just grab four off rock auto prolly just platinum. Also I assume rock auto is the best bet on new coils? Meaning not get charged through the roof and having to put up my first born kid as payment lol
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Old 07-28-2018, 09:19 PM   #56
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@snow_bound26 I take what I said back I’m definitely going to spend the dough and get a lathewerks knob! Their effing dope
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Old 07-28-2018, 09:25 PM   #57
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Originally Posted by 00_imprezaoutback View Post
@snow_bound26 I take what I said back Iím definitely going to spend the dough and get a lathewerks knob! Their effing dope


I'm getting one this winter and selling my anarchy motive one when the time comes. Definitely the nicest knobs I've seen yet. Sometimes you get what you pay for.
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Old 07-28-2018, 09:30 PM   #58
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I'm getting one this winter and selling my anarchy motive one when the time comes. Definitely the nicest knobs I've seen yet. Sometimes you get what you pay for.
Right when I opened the site and went to the wrx knobs I fell in love. I canít decide one which one so Iím making a wish list and making all the ones I really like then going to decide once I finish as long as itís not $100 lol thanks for that lead bro I woulda never found him and woulda had some generic junk.
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Old 07-28-2018, 09:46 PM   #59
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No prob
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Old 07-29-2018, 12:09 PM   #60
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 00_imprezaoutback View Post
But youíd recommend one step colder? The only mods as of right now are the full 3Ē turbo back exhaust (cobb). Also did the wrx come standard with a short throw shifter? Also I desperately need a new shift knob and possible steering wheel or I was thinking of getting some gun grip stuff my aunts a cop and used it on her pick-up truck cause the leather on the steering wheel was I guess peeling off. Iíd rather get a new wheel with I guess a quick release hub nothing flashy or ďfast and furiousĒ 90ís themed wheel lol. I looked at this spec-d momo wheel itís a 320mm I donít know I just canít stand the steering wheel peeling off on my hand every time I turn the damn thing.
[url="http://https://www.sparktecmotorsports.com/sw-106rs.html?utm_source=googlepepla&utm_medium=adwor ds&id=384670177862&gclid=Cj0KCQjwnNvaBRCmARIsAOfZ q-2CjSJH4MmWXxSNI1UZaXJun6_Peu5jo6GSYpodAggonv0QDDEX CckaAhN0EALw_wcB"]
the only reason why you need to go with colder plugs is if you start to get detonation with the stock plugs
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Old 07-30-2018, 09:07 AM   #61
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I had the exact same issue as you, my car was "hitting redline" at 3k, barely drivable.. I replaced both 02 sensors, fuel filter, air filter, coil packs, plugs, checked for leaks, reset ecu, etc. nothing worked. Ended taking it to the local dealership and they fixed it in 2 hours. It was the camshaft position sensor throwing a timing code (scared the crap out of me, trust me). Replace that, reset ecu, should be set.
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Old 08-04-2018, 12:51 AM   #62
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The Perrin ones seems to go in the easiest from what I read. I did mine when I had the intake apart replacing gaskets so it wasn't bad. Definitely looks like a PITA otherwise. Good luck with it all. Definitely sucks when you have to fix things right away.
So I installed a new turbo inlet. I spent he money and got a damn Perrin turbo inlet the damn thing was $215 but it was totally worth it because the original inlet was destroyed mainly the end that goes onto the turbo I mean it was soft and torn really bad so thank go I replaced it. Also changed some vacuum hoses that were hard and worn out and after all tha I needed up getting between 8-10psi finally. Iím still thinking Iím losing between 4-6 psi because of a boost leak but it also could be the crank sensor even thou that code hasnít come up again and neither has the maf sensor code. The iat came up and I took it off cleaned it and put a new gasket on and seems to be fine. Tm Iím gonna go over the ground points on the intake and else where and also change the crank sensor and the crank sensor connector harness just because I have it. And Idky but I keep getting pending misfire codes for cylinder 1,3 even thou the plugs looked brand new I have no idea why they would misfire maybe the coil pack are bad. Anyone got N idea I may just get new coil packs since these ones looked old but which ones should I get just oem ones or upgraded ones.
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Old 08-04-2018, 12:53 AM   #63
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I had the exact same issue as you, my car was "hitting redline" at 3k, barely drivable.. I replaced both 02 sensors, fuel filter, air filter, coil packs, plugs, checked for leaks, reset ecu, etc. nothing worked. Ended taking it to the local dealership and they fixed it in 2 hours. It was the camshaft position sensor throwing a timing code (scared the crap out of me, trust me). Replace that, reset ecu, should be set.
When you say reset the ecu do you mean like unplug the battery or unplug the ecu?
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Old 08-04-2018, 06:05 AM   #64
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Default Power gain from stock td04 to vf39

It's an old car and as you're finding out some things will need to be replaced.

To properly reset the ecu you can disconnect the neg wire on the battery for a few minutes or do it through a scanning device or Access Port/other tuning device.

When you say the plugs look good, what do you mean? Can you post pics of them? Honestly don't judge them based on how they look in terms of working. The way plugs look tell you about what is in the combustion chamber, how hot it's combusting, and gives you an idea of what issues you might be facing. Just buy OEM coil packs if you do need to replace them. But first switch 1 and 2 then 3 and 4. If your misfire codes change as you move the coil packs then you know you need to replace them.

Did you zip tie or clamp all the vac lines you replaced? In your other post you didn't mention the turbo inlet. Make sure all your connections are clamped and the bcs lines are zip tied.

As for the boost issue. Either keep it all in this post or keep it for the other post you created so you can keep track of advice easier.
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Old 08-04-2018, 10:53 AM   #65
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It's an old car and as you're finding out some things will need to be replaced.

To properly reset the ecu you can disconnect the neg wire on the battery for a few minutes or do it through a scanning device or Access Port/other tuning device.

When you say the plugs look good, what do you mean? Can you post pics of them? Honestly don't judge them based on how they look in terms of working. The way plugs look tell you about what is in the combustion chamber, how hot it's combusting, and gives you an idea of what issues you might be facing. Just buy OEM coil packs if you do need to replace them. But first switch 1 and 2 then 3 and 4. If your misfire codes change as you move the coil packs then you know you need to replace them.

Did you zip tie or clamp all the vac lines you replaced? In your other post you didn't mention the turbo inlet. Make sure all your connections are clamped and the bcs lines are zip tied.

As for the boost issue. Either keep it all in this post or keep it for the other post you created so you can keep track of advice easier.
OK when I say the spark plugs look good I mean theyíre brand new I just bought the same exact blogs that are in the car and I match them up the gapping is the same they are both the same color theyíre not discolored on the metal or anything. I did zip ties and clamp the vacuum lines I am no I didnít mention a turbo inlet and I will keep it to this post but I bought the parent and replaced it with the old one that was ripped a hole where KíNEX the turbo also I replaced some vacuum line I also replaced the lines for the boost controller and the line that goes from the blowoff valve to the boost gauge and replace the boost gauge with my old one from my Fahrenheit itís a new south performance but when I turn the car off the needle only goes to six on the inch HG so I figure thatís where Bruce starts the school or the turbo starts to I also replaced the lines for the boost controller and the line that goes from the blowoff valve to the boost gauge and replace the boost gauge with my old one from my Fahrenheit itís a new south performance but when I turn the car off the needle only goes to six on the inch HG so I figure thatís where the turbo start to spool. I mean you can hear it start to school up way before it gets to zero Iím thinking that there is either another vacuum leak somewhere or the boost controller is bad I donít even know is that possible for the original boost controller to go bad. I plan on saving my money up to get a new access port Iím hoping that cob lets me to the V2 for V3 trade-in because that will save me a lot of money. Back to the spark plugs I just remembered there is a little discoloration on the threads of the spark plug but the tip of the plug and the I guess the hook I donít know exactly what itís called are in good shape they look like theyíre brand new almost so I think the plugs are good but there is an oil leak on the valve cover that I have to replace and Iím wondering if the oil getting in the coil pack plugs maybe making them show a misfire code is that possible?
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Old 08-04-2018, 10:58 AM   #66
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That’s what the boost gauge looks like when the cars off it’s ghetto as fu(k right now waiting on my new gauge pod to come I got the one that swaps out the black plastic around he speedo and rpm gauges.

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Old 08-04-2018, 11:56 AM   #67
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I’ve been thinking is it possible for my turbo to be dying I mean the turbo probably has 190,000 on it
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Old 08-04-2018, 11:56 AM   #68
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Iíve been thinking is it possible for my turbo to be dying I mean the turbo probably has 190,000 on it
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Old 08-04-2018, 02:46 PM   #69
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my bet is something is still wrong somewhere and the ECU is limiting boost. even a worn out turbo will able to overboost in the mid range. does the turbo make a lot of noise? if not, its probably fine.
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Old 08-12-2018, 01:42 PM   #70
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Ok all hereís a huge giant awesome update!!! After changing the turbo intel I no longer have any issues with the car besides the boost loss and the ho2 sensor code. Next week I am finally purchasing the accessport v3 well trading it in for my v2 and also getting thier intake with the air box and after maf hose, a new throttle body coupled since the one I have is hard and old, Iím getting a new y pipe and bpv/bov for my tmic (prolly mishimoto), Iím getting the Cobb 3port ebcs. Yes I understand I need a turn for it and their are ots maps that I have already downloaded onto my AP managerone is a stage 1+ and the other a stage 2+. Obviously going to start out with stage one + and hope that it fixes my boost issues. If It doesnít I will be shipping her off to the dealer to get down to the bottom of it. Now the last thing I have to figure out is why Iím leaking. Or where Iím leaking Freon from. I replaced one line that was corroded I know itís tight and good. I changed the compressor because it was seizing and found the low side hose leaking I changed out he o ring and it was fine for a day or two. But before that I had changed the expansion valve because it was stuck shut with metal shards Idky looked old thou. I still think theirs a small leak on the low side hose that connects to the compressor so I have a roll of gasket like the **** you can use to cut out a new gasket for something and Iím gonna trace that and see if thatíll fix it.
I know you guys were convinced that their was prolly something up with my wiring but I guess the issue was the old slimy nasty turbo inlet oh and the dirty a$$ iac valve lol cleaned that and put a new basket on and never saw that code again. THANKS AGAIN FOR ALL YOUR GUYS HELP!!!
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Old 08-12-2018, 01:52 PM   #71
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Turbo inlet

Old ripped oily turbo inlet
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