2012 Impreza thread

[Pelco]

Originally Posted by CalTech87

Anyone holding onto stock parts for no particular reason? I have:

Swaybar with endlinks / Axleback / Springs

Cleaned out my garage over the holidays and I think it may finally be time to let these go. Wife has a 16 Crosstrek that came from snow country so I may swap the axleback as hers has a little rust.

The only thing Im holding onto is the intake since I cant get e-checked (legally) in California with the CAI.

On that note if anyone picked up the Sport Mesh Grille and has their stock in SILVER laying around I'd be interested.

What CAI do you have?

I have a bunch of parts from my Impreza. Like sport wheels, struts, grille, both sway stock sway bars, and muffler.

I do however have the sunshade, rear trunk cover, and a torklift hidden hitch that I wouldn't mind selling.

I feel like I should keep the stock parts because I am always thinking of other cars. But I know I'd regret selling the Impreza because it's such a good grocery getter. All the mods and work I put into it really have made it a great and fun car.

I keep wanting to milk more performance and handling out of it, but I am out of ideas...

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[CalTech87]

Originally Posted by Invisible3mpire

I unexpectedly sold my swaybar + endlinks + bushings to someone on Instagram who had a base model and didn't care for anything stiffer than 16mm.

This is about the only thing I can think of as well. Someone with a base model and no sway bar.

Originally Posted by Pelco

What CAI do you have?

Injen. I think it was designed for our mode year. Either way, fits like a glove.

Other than audio I dont really care to "return to stock" even if I did sell the car. I plan to drive until its no longer economically viable (cost of repairs) anyhow.

[IHaveAHorse]

Does anyone know how much the front bumper/grille and one quarter panel (or fender, whatever it's called) costs to replace on a 2012-16 Impreza/XV? My friend just hit a deer and I was curious, guessing probably $2000-3000 total and knowing this person their deductible is probably higher than that, so that sounds like a fun time.

There was ice and slush on the roads and they were going the speed limit in the middle of the night anyway so... that was a great idea lol. I'm sure it could have been avoided if they were going the appropriate speed for the conditions.

Edit- hood is also bent slightly at the front, I think it could be worked back out but I know most collision repair centers deal with even a tiny scratch by replacing the panel so add that on.

[DieselDorf]

I had a bent quarter panel, someone in a parking lot hit it.

Only thing that needed to be done was bend it back and paint and it was like 1500. I’m guessing 3k or more sounds about right.

[Invisible3mpire]

+1 for 3kish. In my experience, they won't replace a panel over a scratch unless you want perfect, but they will most definitely disassemble and repaint the entire side of the car for the new paint to blend with the original—that's another reason why body work tends to be expensive.

[IHaveAHorse]

Turns out they also had a giant bulge in the sidewall of their tire so it's another $200 if he wants the same brand + probably $50 for shaving it (assuming they're competent enough to do that) and mount/balance. Although another ~$200 is gonna seem inconsequential.

Turns out he only has a $250 deductible too, so that's good news for him, that would be a painful repair if you had a high deductible.

[Grombal]

Who's got a no-bull**** wiring diagram for a '12 sport? I'm at a loss finding credible sources.

[DieselDorf]

Don’t have one but what specifically are you trying to do? Might be able to help if we know.

[IHaveAHorse]

That entire repair came out to nearly $6000 with tax&labor, not sure if they replaced both doors but definitely one, the hood, the fender/quarter panel, the front bumper, and the tire. Supposedly the guy said the small amount of tread difference, I think it was about 2/32" won't cause any damage to the drivetrain so they didn't shave it or replace all tires or anything.

[CalTech87]

Need some advice here guys, livid over some **** going on with the dealer.

Quick rundown on maintenance:

-Valve Spring Recall
-800 miles later no oil in car
-Short Block Replaced
-Smell burning oil through vents
-Dealer replaces "main seal"
-Back again, dealer replaces oil drain plug (says my fumoto bad, I disagreed)

Been SLOWLY leaking for 6 months. Today they say oil pan and/or oil level switch are a problem. Say I would have to pay because it wasnt part of last maintenance. Posting a screenshot of the shortblock replacement which included the same switch and both oil pan seals. I was already parting stuff out to see what it would cost me to do it but I called their bluff and looked at the record.

They keep saying the oil pan is dented and that could be the cause. My oil pan has probably been dented for ages but never leaked.

MAYBE IT WAS WHEN YOU TORE THE ENTIRE THING APART!?

Do I escalate this to Subaru of America just to get the ball rolling? Then contact the dealer to address the issue? Or give them the third chance upfront?

[DieselDorf]

This seems like one of those tricky spots since there isn’t any evidence that points to one person being right kind of he said she said type thing. Going to Subaru of America is probably not a bad idea either way.

Good luck.

[Cujo31]

Been SLOWLY leaking for 6 months.

From the oil pan gasket? where is it leaking from, or is it hard to tell exactly.

If it's the oil pan, I'd cut my losses at this point and buy another new oil pan & gasket myself and just do it myself in the driveway and see what happens.

You will never stop getting the runaround from the dealer; just rip the band-aid off & walk away.

[CalTech87]

It's difficult to tell where the leak is coming from but as far as I can tell it's ABOVE the oil pan and always has been. I'd assume this is why they did the "main seal" the first time. This is why I argued with the drain plug diagnosis... There's oil ABOVE the drain plug.

They want $600 for the pan and 800 for the switch. As far as I can tell I can replace both for $200 (OEM) and a couple hours of my time.

This is the same dealer that wanted something like $700 for a spark plug change which I was able to do for less than $100 and 1.5 hours.

Other than the burnt oil smell through the vents the leak is slower than my engine previously burned oil so I'll take it as a win. May just have to leave it at that if they don't cooperate.

[Lilyjess18]

Dealers are always tricky to deal with but if the pan is that cheap just try it yourself and see what happens. Seems like they will just keep throwing parts until they find the right one

[CalTech87]

Originally Posted by Lilyjess18

Seems like they will just keep throwing parts until they find the right one

Thats fine with me as long as its covered.

Went back today. Now its just that its out of the 12 month warranty that came along with the short block replacement. Lets say I had taken it back 5 times before: if they keep dragging their feet they could wait until warranty expiration and start charging me? Not saying this happened, its hypothetical.

Im trying to gather more information before contacting SOA now to see what can be done. For a documented issue I think they may try to help me out. Ive never had routine maintenance at the dealer.

Could anyone tell me the difference or how these Subaru part numbers work?

11136AA111
11136AA140

When I search for my VIN on the parts website, I see 11136AA111. This is the switch they currently recommend putting in.

The shortblock replaced parts has 11136AA140. For different model years maybe? Thing is, even if these are interchangeable the guy specifically said... I looked at your service history to see if it was previously replaced...

At least Ill have some stuff to copy/paste for SOA, or not if Im just ignorant about all this.

EDIT: Also, do I overestimate the problems that can occur from replacing a shortblock?

[IHaveAHorse]

215/45-17 tires should fit fine with a wheel of the appropriate offset on this car, right? Tire rack is holding my order hostage because "it's not one of the recommended sizes for this vehicle", I know the car will sit a whole 0.15" lower compared to the 205/55-16 tires I have right now but the car can also fit 225 width tires at least from what I recall, so surely 215 width tires should be fine? Picked up some winter tires after I got a damaged steel wheel from hitting a curb in the winter and the tire shop refused to remount the tires because a couple had patches in them. Getting some wheels from craigslist and bought some cheap kuhmo summer tires from tire rack.

[CalTech87]

Update on my situation:

Oil Level Switch
11136AA111 - Standard for our vehicle (if its not had a short block replacement)
11136AA140 - Used during short block replacement and should continue to be used if needing replaced

Talked to SOA. "Since its out of warranty, we'll cover $1400 as a one time courtesy." So Ill pay for steam cleaning and oil dye to check for further leaks. Probably end up going back, guess Ill find out!

[DieselDorf]

That’s not too bad take the money!

[Angelus911]

Originally Posted by CalTech87

Update on my situation:

Oil Level Switch
11136AA111 - Standard for our vehicle (if its not had a short block replacement)
11136AA140 - Used during short block replacement and should continue to be used if needing replaced

Talked to SOA. "Since its out of warranty, we'll cover $1400 as a one time courtesy." So Ill pay for steam cleaning and oil dye to check for further leaks. Probably end up going back, guess Ill find out!

That seems like the going rate for SOA - that's around what they offered me after they botched the shortblock replacement and had oil leaking onto the hot exhaust.

[motorace]

anyone have transmission problems? mine is a 2013 and feels like the transmission slips at around 20-30MPH. its like s shuttering. going to take it to dealer on thursday and just wanted to see if anyone has experienced that same then and what fixed the issue. trying to prepare my self for the "you need a new cvt and give us 7K on your car that is worth 6K"

[protivakid]

Originally Posted by motorace

anyone have transmission problems? mine is a 2013 and feels like the transmission slips at around 20-30MPH. its like s shuttering. going to take it to dealer on thursday and just wanted to see if anyone has experienced that same then and what fixed the issue. trying to prepare my self for the "you need a new cvt and give us 7K on your car that is worth 6K"

My CVT is still going well at 110k however if you search there are a lot that have had issues. It's even worse when you look at the WRX guys with the beefier Subaru CVT, they've been able to kill those in just 30k.

[IHaveAHorse]

Originally Posted by protivakid

My CVT is still going well at 110k however if you search there are a lot that have had issues. It's even worse when you look at the WRX guys with the beefier Subaru CVT, they've been able to kill those in just 30k.

They're probably also driving them like a kid who just got his first sports car so it's more likely they'll have issues. Probably less of a safety margin for power/tq on those too (maybe not, just a guess).


The only really odd thing I ever noticed about my CVT is if I'm driving on a flat, straight road at like 35mph or so, after the car has totally warmed up for like 20-30 minutes of driving, if I lift off the gas pedal then press it back down within a second or two the transmission kind of shudders a little bit like a bad shift on a manual or something. It's probably not even noticeable to someone who isn't driving but I can tell it's there.


But my car has been doing that since I bought it and now with 100,000 miles on it it's still going fine so I don't worry about it, plus I'd think a failing CVT transmission would likely show more than one very subtle specific sign at an exact speed.

[nubsub]

my CVT is fine at about 91k on the dial. i'm not sure if they changed the CVT mechanics themselves or the programming, but when they did my valve spring recall, i drove a 2019, and liked the way that CVT "shifted" much better than my 2012.

[IHaveAHorse]

I still don't like CVTs but if they can refine them for as long as they've had to refine geared autos, they'll be decent and more efficient, and hopefully not $8000 to fix/replace in the future.

[DieselDorf]

Majority of cvt issues are with the valve body solenoids, usually around 1200-1500 to replace. SOA is known to cover the cost or most of it even if out of the warranty period.

Mine is fine on my 12 at 110k.

Total cvt failures aren’t very common.

I love the cvt it’s super smooth.