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Old 09-10-2018, 10:31 AM   #26
smoky
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On pump most people will say to stay under 8.5, but on E85 people suggestion vary and higher CR seems to work quite well. Waiting to see how response feel on autocross event. If response is good, I might try higher CR on my next build, if not that great I'll get back to a 2.5. I'm experimenting over the years.

On a Cobb 20g turbo with a 2.5 a friend of mine was running 8.75 and got back to 8.2 on his latest rebuild. He loss almost 500rpm spool on the dyno, but he gained some power and was able to run more boost on pump (94 octane canadian fuel). It also makes the build safer, expecially if you have high IAT.
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Old 09-29-2018, 09:25 AM   #27
Daggernomad55555
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Somebody knows water meth injection with higher CR

Last edited by Daggernomad55555; 09-29-2018 at 09:32 AM.
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Old 10-01-2018, 01:48 PM   #28
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Yeah, more cylinder pressure always narrows the safety range for timing.

Bugbomb and Konkilr (Mike and Jake) Suxass car is running 14:1 on E85. I drove the car back in it's 10:1 autox set up and still 28 psi on an FP green IIRC...the throttle was a light switch.

The 14:1 switch was supposed to come with a larger turbine to mellow out the lightswitch a bit in lieu of more power. I ought to call them and see where the car is now. I know the old chassis died in a wreck (street driving) and they bought and swapped to a new chassis.

The TIC car lives on ethanol now and is a 10:1 2.5 bottom end, living on a mellow 32 psi from a GTX3582R. So it doesn't have the lower RPM high cylinder pressure issues. It wasn't at peak torque until ~4100 RPM IIRC. Then again, it's a TA car, so top end is much more of a concern.

I think most people are afraid of higher CR with boost, or are tuner limited.
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Old 10-10-2018, 11:57 PM   #29
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Quick update, turbo response on the track is very good. Powerband is also very nice, getting up to the end at 8k. Quick video of the last event of the year:
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Old 10-11-2018, 10:58 AM   #30
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It does sound like good response time on the throttle. Looks like another option potentially on the market
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Old 10-11-2018, 03:50 PM   #31
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I'm still curious to see what the next size up G-series will look like. Should be a nice fit for my 2.43 (4" bore) destroker.
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Old 10-11-2018, 05:47 PM   #32
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I'm curious as well. Currently looking into options for a larger turbo on my FA20.
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Old 10-18-2018, 01:10 AM   #33
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I run an AWIC, previously with a EFR 6758 and now with a 6258. It's been great.

Very little weight difference, and the heavy stuff is where I want it (tmic location AWIC, and resiviour in the trunk)

https://www.iwsti.com/forums/gd-memb...-ftd-time.html
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Old 10-19-2018, 12:25 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Krang View Post
I run an AWIC, previously with a EFR 6758 and now with a 6258. It's been great.
Didn't realize you'd changed turbos. I just got four more of the IRL 0.64 AR 6758s if you want to switch back
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Old 10-20-2018, 04:02 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smoky View Post
Quick update, turbo response on the track is very good. Powerband is also very nice, getting up to the end at 8k.
Nice run! Smaller diameter wheels = lower inertia = good response
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Old 11-26-2018, 11:26 AM   #36
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A few updates on the build:
- Oil pressure is dropping (to 60psi @ 8000rpm) when oil is reaching around 230 with both Gulf racing 5w50 and Motul 300v 15w50. Uprading to a 11mm pump over winter.
- Still haven't found what's limiting the tune at 8000rpm. A few tuners have confirmed that it should be possible with 04 ECU, could be the tune itself. Also had another theory on cam sensor gap, need to investigate further on that side
- Decided to try A2W intercooler to reduce IAT. In discussion with Frozenboost for the setup
- Might upgrade the injectors to 1700 and have the tune adjusted for a few more psi in spring
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Old 11-26-2018, 12:51 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smoky View Post
A few updates on the build:
- Oil pressure is dropping (to 60psi @ 8000rpm) when oil is reaching around 230 with both Gulf racing 5w50 and Motul 300v 15w50. Uprading to a 11mm pump over winter.
- Still haven't found what's limiting the tune at 8000rpm. A few tuners have confirmed that it should be possible with 04 ECU, could be the tune itself. Also had another theory on cam sensor gap, need to investigate further on that side
- Decided to try A2W intercooler to reduce IAT. In discussion with Frozenboost for the setup
- Might upgrade the injectors to 1700 and have the tune adjusted for a few more psi in spring
Weird that the tune cuts out. From my arm chair, that sounds like a lack of fuel and/or an issue with the ECU's capability. Are you running MAF or speed density?

About the A2W, I have been running a frozenboost Type 14 intercooler in the stock intercooler location in conjunction with a Type 100 heat exchanger mounted where my AC condenser used to be. It's been a pretty solid setup.
It fits after I trimmed about 0.5 inches off the discharge so it would clear my strut tower brace, the heat exchanger fit after I cut off the neck and welded up the hole. I have used it at about 280 whp in autocross for about 1.5 years and never had any heat soak issues.

My own G25 build isn't done yet, but the turbo/intercooler system is. pics attached for some ideas. In order to handle the extra hp I have added a 3.5 quart reservoir in the trunk.

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Old 11-26-2018, 01:34 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smoky View Post
A few updates on the build:
- Oil pressure is dropping (to 60psi @ 8000rpm) when oil is reaching around 230 with both Gulf racing 5w50 and Motul 300v 15w50. Uprading to a 11mm pump over winter.
- Still haven't found what's limiting the tune at 8000rpm. A few tuners have confirmed that it should be possible with 04 ECU, could be the tune itself. Also had another theory on cam sensor gap, need to investigate further on that side
- Decided to try A2W intercooler to reduce IAT. In discussion with Frozenboost for the setup
- Might upgrade the injectors to 1700 and have the tune adjusted for a few more psi in spring
if you are going through the trouble why dont you go with an aftermaket ecu?
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Old 11-26-2018, 01:41 PM   #39
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****, I need to get into the garage and finish up my darn project. I miss having a fun car.
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Old 11-26-2018, 02:34 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smoky View Post
A few updates on the build:
- Oil pressure is dropping (to 60psi @ 8000rpm) when oil is reaching around 230 with both Gulf racing 5w50 and Motul 300v 15w50. Uprading to a 11mm pump over winter.
- Still haven't found what's limiting the tune at 8000rpm. A few tuners have confirmed that it should be possible with 04 ECU, could be the tune itself. Also had another theory on cam sensor gap, need to investigate further on that side
- Decided to try A2W intercooler to reduce IAT. In discussion with Frozenboost for the setup
- Might upgrade the injectors to 1700 and have the tune adjusted for a few more psi in spring
Oil pressure dropping is likely due to stock crank oiling at high rpm or bearing clearances opening up. Mine used to do that, then I switched to a billet crank and it held better, but still dropped some to redline. I run the sensor off the back galley on the block so the pressure is after it's gone through everything.

If the engine starts breaking up for no reason then it's likely the cam sensor gap. Both cam and crank sensors have a spec for gap and once you go outside of it (common on aftermarket cams) you get a poor home signal. I fought it for a while before figuring it out.

Also, I have a Haltech Sport 2000 that's coming up for sale soon too if you're interested
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Old 11-26-2018, 03:38 PM   #41
subaru_gc8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tsrapophis View Post
Weird that the tune cuts out. From my arm chair, that sounds like a lack of fuel and/or an issue with the ECU's capability. Are you running MAF or speed density?

About the A2W, I have been running a frozenboost Type 14 intercooler in the stock intercooler location in conjunction with a Type 100 heat exchanger mounted where my AC condenser used to be. It's been a pretty solid setup.
It fits after I trimmed about 0.5 inches off the discharge so it would clear my strut tower brace, the heat exchanger fit after I cut off the neck and welded up the hole. I have used it at about 280 whp in autocross for about 1.5 years and never had any heat soak issues.

My own G25 build isn't done yet, but the turbo/intercooler system is. pics attached for some ideas. In order to handle the extra hp I have added a 3.5 quart reservoir in the trunk.

that awesome, I kinda wish i went that route instead of the fmic i have now
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Old 11-26-2018, 06:13 PM   #42
tsrapophis
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Originally Posted by subaru_gc8 View Post
that awesome, I kinda wish i went that route instead of the fmic i have now
Thanks, I'll be posting some data and build info when it's done.
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Old 11-26-2018, 09:53 PM   #43
smoky
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Quote:
Originally Posted by subydude View Post
If the engine starts breaking up for no reason then it's likely the cam sensor gap. Both cam and crank sensors have a spec for gap and once you go outside of it (common on aftermarket cams) you get a poor home signal. I fought it for a while before figuring it out.
Tx for the info. Anybody have the spec somewhere, can't seem to find it in the manual
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Old 11-27-2018, 10:53 AM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smoky View Post
Tx for the info. Anybody have the spec somewhere, can't seem to find it in the manual
It's for a later year, but the target gap is 1.26-1.35 mm between sensor and tooth.
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Old 05-23-2019, 10:21 AM   #45
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Any updates
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Old 05-23-2019, 07:07 PM   #46
smoky
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New A2W setup works well. Gain a bit of HP by increasing fuel pressure on last tune and with improved intercooler, now at 461whp. The WRX plastic intake manifold and heat wrap gained me 300-400 rpm of spool. Pictures: https://photos.app.goo.gl/jxYyhW7itFwMbkBY6
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Old 05-27-2019, 10:49 PM   #47
CEEBEE
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Welcome to the A2W club! Love your setup! A 2.35l would be great fun..
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Old 09-20-2019, 01:22 AM   #48
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More info on the a2w setup pls
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Old 09-20-2019, 12:52 PM   #49
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Most parts for the A2W are from frozenboost. I have the type 26 intercooler in front, type 100 radiator in the back with 2 "cheap" 10 inches fan. Pump is a Jonhson CM90. All piping is 3/4 silicone hoses. System has about 12L of water in it.

Whole setup weight around 60-70lbs including water. But I only have about 20lbs in front of the car and the intake track is very short. You can check my pictures.

Typical autocross run rise temperature by around 10-12C and it takes about 10min. for the fan to cool it down back to ambient between runs. Ice is required on hot day or if you need to do 2 runs in a row. It take quite a lot of ice, more than 1kg between each run to drop water temp to ambient. Staying on the rev limiter really heat the water a lot.

My IAT sensor is heat soaking so it's hard to give precise result on IAT, but I think it stays bellow 130F on very hot day.

I'm planning on adding a small radiator in front of the car for next year to help reduce temperature and try to be able to run the car in lapping on low boost setting.
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Old 09-20-2019, 01:40 PM   #50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smoky View Post
Most parts for the A2W are from frozenboost. I have the type 26 intercooler in front, type 100 radiator in the back with 2 "cheap" 10 inches fan. Pump is a Jonhson CM90. All piping is 3/4 silicone hoses. System has about 12L of water in it.

Whole setup weight around 60-70lbs including water. But I only have about 20lbs in front of the car and the intake track is very short. You can check my pictures.

Typical autocross run rise temperature by around 10-12C and it takes about 10min. for the fan to cool it down back to ambient between runs. Ice is required on hot day or if you need to do 2 runs in a row. It take quite a lot of ice, more than 1kg between each run to drop water temp to ambient. Staying on the rev limiter really heat the water a lot.

My IAT sensor is heat soaking so it's hard to give precise result on IAT, but I think it stays bellow 130F on very hot day.

I'm planning on adding a small radiator in front of the car for next year to help reduce temperature and try to be able to run the car in lapping on low boost setting.
have you tried like water wetter?
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