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Old 03-15-2019, 09:24 PM   #1
JonnyD91
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Default Detailing gear refresh

I used to detail my car all the time, then I had kids and the car got old. Recently picked up a 2019 STI, so of course I want to do the first detail on it. I have a bunch of stuff, some of it is 8years old (no clue how long this stuff lasts)

I have a porta cable buffer, I think I need new pads. Pic below. Not sure what brand is good these days?

Below is what I have now, what is worth keeping?

Id rather not get into ceramic sealant. Dont want to spend the money to have someone do it or the time myself.

My plans are clay, minor correction, sealant, wax.

I think I need a good sealant and wax along with a new clay bar. (Recommendations)?

Sonax works well so Ill prob keep that.

Any other recommendations?







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Old 03-16-2019, 10:17 PM   #2
soloz2
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I'm a huge fan of CarPro. I've had excellent results with almost all their products, and they have great support.
I'm in a similar situation, but it's only been about 4 5 years for me.
I'm likely going with the following:
Iron x & tar x
Clay (already have otherwise I'd go polyshave decon)
Then I'll probably use CarPro Essence followed by Cquartz UK and DLUX with reload as a topper.
Reset for maintenance washes

I haven't decided what pads to use, but I'll pick up some carpro gloss pads to try. I already have Lake Country flat pads, but I know other pads have come out since.

I'm still in the decision phase, but I've had good luck with DLUX and CQUARTZ UK in the past with both appearance and longevity. I know there are good products out there, but I tend to stick with what I know. Griot's Garage, CarPro, and Meg's.
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Old 03-17-2019, 12:27 AM   #3
gjkrisa
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You say you have no time mequires new spray sealant you cannot beat for price,ease of use waiting for spring in Alaska to try it out but probably be using that over turtle wax ice

Shake your products for thirty seconds then spread it out on a pad if you see separation or clumps then it's bad.

Your pads look odd like you applied product and then never used it.
Sure there fine just hand wash them specially the one with lots of dirt on it maybe that one you should just throw away.

Last edited by gjkrisa; 03-17-2019 at 12:33 AM.
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Old 03-17-2019, 06:27 PM   #4
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Wolfgangs sealant, it's high price but it lasts longer than alot of other sealants I have used.
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Old 03-17-2019, 08:05 PM   #5
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Default Detailing gear refresh

Quote:
Originally Posted by ProjectN64 View Post
Wolfgangs sealant, it's high price but it lasts longer than alot of other sealants I have used.


Does it go good with the collinite 845 on top?

Im liking some of that car pro stuff too.
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Old 03-17-2019, 08:07 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gjkrisa View Post
You say you have no time mequires new spray sealant you cannot beat for price,ease of use waiting for spring in Alaska to try it out but probably be using that over turtle wax ice



Shake your products for thirty seconds then spread it out on a pad if you see separation or clumps then it's bad.



Your pads look odd like you applied product and then never used it.

Sure there fine just hand wash them specially the one with lots of dirt on it maybe that one you should just throw away.


Im just going to buy all new pads.
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Old 03-18-2019, 12:36 AM   #7
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Originally Posted by JonnyD91 View Post
Does it go good with the collinite 845 on top?

Im liking some of that car pro stuff too.
It should be good, I usually just apply after a wash if I'm up for it. There's nothing else needed so long as you apply every 3 or so months, the finish will stay looking nice.
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Old 03-20-2019, 12:56 PM   #8
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If you predict time being an issue for long term maintenance I would go with NU Finish.. over and over again I see detailers reviewing it with great success. I used it for years and haven't found anything except ceramic coating that lasts longer for beading. Everything else I used could only take a couple washes with non-pH soap (so I can actually get bugs and junk off without hard scrubbing) before they were gone. It seems lame to reccommend something sold everywhere from walmart to VIP.. but yeah.. its good stuff just dont get it on trim.
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Old 03-21-2019, 02:13 PM   #9
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The Subaru paint is very soft and I find a white pad does the work of polishing and removing swirls and light scratches. I use Menzerna 3800 with a white pad for the above.

For wax I use 1Z Einszett Glanz Wax. Very easy to apply and looks awesome. I find it lasts about 6 months.
edit: I think I actually use Wolfgangs sealant. Its been long since Ive detailed the car. I don know it lasts long and looks great.

I am now a fan of Car Pro products. I use Reload for refreshing the protection and gloss, and Perl for tires and plastics.
I haven't detailed my car in 2 years and Reload alone makes the car look brand new. Not to mention that the paint is very slick, water just slides off, easy to apply, and lasts months.

Given how good Reload has worked, I might change to using IronX prior to Reload, rather than claying only for full detail once a year.

Last edited by vapore0n; 03-21-2019 at 02:20 PM.
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Old 03-21-2019, 02:54 PM   #10
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I'd get new pads as well. I've used a lot of chemical guys and car pro products. I am in the process or doing my first ceramic coating. CQuarts UK 3.0. I wouldn't say it's super time consuming, especially if it lasts as long as some reviewers say. I've already done some of the car, just have rent had time to finish it. I've been doing it panel at as time. It takes less time than polishing it does.
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Old 03-21-2019, 05:46 PM   #11
JonnyD91
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Yeah still torn between ceramic and the good old sealant and wax. Plan to buy a bunch of stuff next month.
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Old 03-21-2019, 07:28 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vapore0n View Post
The Subaru paint is very soft and I find a white pad does the work of polishing and removing swirls and light scratches. I use Menzerna 3800 with a white pad for the above.

For wax I use 1Z Einszett Glanz Wax. Very easy to apply and looks awesome. I find it lasts about 6 months.
edit: I think I actually use Wolfgangs sealant. Its been long since Ive detailed the car. I don know it lasts long and looks great.

I am now a fan of Car Pro products. I use Reload for refreshing the protection and gloss, and Perl for tires and plastics.
I haven't detailed my car in 2 years and Reload alone makes the car look brand new. Not to mention that the paint is very slick, water just slides off, easy to apply, and lasts months.

Given how good Reload has worked, I might change to using IronX prior to Reload, rather than claying only for full detail once a year.


Can I use reload on a car that has traditional wax/sealant on it, or can that only be used on a car that has been ceramic coated?
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Old 03-22-2019, 11:42 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JonnyD91 View Post
Can I use reload on a car that has traditional wax/sealant on it, or can that only be used on a car that has been ceramic coated?
yes to both.

You can use Reload on top of wax, other sealants, glass, vinyl, etc.
It is very recommended to use something like Reload on clear bras too. Using wax tends to lead to deposits on the edges.

Ive stopped using waxes, as they dont last as long as sealants.
I aint got time to wax my car every other week like I used to
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Old 03-24-2019, 02:03 PM   #14
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Ok so here is where im at so far:

https://i.imgur.com/woI0Nan.png

I think I want to try one of carpros polishes. Just not sure which to get. It will be a light correction. (Mostly super light swirls from the dealer detail)

So would I get essence, essence+ or reflecT?

Still deciding on the final wax topcoat. For now I want to keep with the traditional and not ceramic.

Also found an electric blower on amazon for about 30 bucks.
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Old 03-24-2019, 02:30 PM   #15
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I would go with "Clear Cut" to get out the swirls...
CarPro Clear Cut
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Old 03-24-2019, 02:44 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by grovlet View Post
I would go with "Clear Cut" to get out the swirls...

CarPro Clear Cut


This says heavy cutting, I think that is to abrasive. I want a light polish.
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Old 03-24-2019, 03:52 PM   #17
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Essence Extreme should do the trick. Light correction ability and will prep for a coating. Skip the sealant and get cquartz or one of the other carpro coatings.
Skip that wheel brush and get wheel woolies.

Order from carpro-us. Significantly better service and faster shipping.
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Old 03-24-2019, 06:36 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by soloz2 View Post
Essence Extreme should do the trick. Light correction ability and will prep for a coating. Skip the sealant and get cquartz or one of the other carpro coatings.
Skip that wheel brush and get wheel woolies.

Order from carpro-us. Significantly better service and faster shipping.

Regarding cquartz

Quote:
Directions:

Shake well. Pour a few drops of CQuartz on a microfiber applicator pad.

Apply C.Quartz in straight lines, criss-crossing each car panel.

Wait 1-5 minutes on average, depending on temperature and humidity level. Then wipe off gently with soft microfiber towel with short looped fibers. Avoid re-using the wipe off microfiber towels because they will harden and crystallize.

Let dry for 1hour at 25 C (77 F) or 3 hours at 15 C (59 F). The coating will dry completely within 48 hours.

You have the option of accelerating the cure time by using IR lights.

Working temperature: 15- 30 C (59-86F).

** During the first 10 minutes, apply CQuartz to any spots that were missed. After 10 minutes, do not try to re-fill missing spots; it will stain the paint.

Apply 2 layers for more durability! Wait 1-3 hours for first layer to dry before applying second layer.
** this part frightens me a bit.
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Old 03-24-2019, 10:06 PM   #19
soloz2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JonnyD91 View Post
Regarding cquartz



** this part frightens me a bit.
It isn't too bad. Watch some videos and if you can get a test panel to try it on.
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Old 03-25-2019, 10:20 AM   #20
Scooby921
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JonnyD91 View Post
Can I use reload on a car that has traditional wax/sealant on it, or can that only be used on a car that has been ceramic coated?
The ceramic maintenance coatings like Reload can be stand-alone products. You can use them as an only coating or on top of anything else. If you're washing the car monthly and applying Reload every time then you might not even need to bother with a base sealant. The Reload won't disappear that quickly. As for Reload there are plenty of reviews out there saying that it's tricky to apply. It's not. Treat it like quick detailer. Two mist sprays on a 2' x 2' area, rub it in with one side of a towel, then wipe it off with a clean side.

If you're going to use Reload on top of a base sealant then it really doesn't matter which one you use. The sealant is rarely going to be the coating trying to repel water and dirt. That's what Reload is going to do on top. Pick a coating you know and like, or one that is going to give you a nice deep shine.

Quote:
Originally Posted by JonnyD91 View Post
This says heavy cutting, I think that is to abrasive. I want a light polish.
You can mix a heavier cutting compound with a light cut or finishing pad to vary the results. If you aren't going for a show quality finish it's an easy way to only worry about a single product. Get a medium or heavy compound and a light cut pad and a finishing pad and you can likely one-step most anything you run across for paint issues. Use it with the finishing pad to deal with swirls. Use it with the light cut pad if you have a deeper scratch.

Alternatively you can look at a kit like Meguiar's newer DA microfiber buffing kit. Comes with cutting compound, finishing compound, 2 cutting pads, and 2 finishing pads for $70. I use Lake Country microfiber cut and finish pads with Rupes Quarz and Keramik compounds. Very similar in function by matching the cut compound to cut pad and finish compound to finish pad. Did a great job establishing a bright, deep shine on my brand new Jeep last spring. It was also good enough to get most of the water spots out of the paint on my Porsche.

Quote:
Originally Posted by JonnyD91 View Post
Regarding cquartz


** this part frightens me a bit.
Ceramic coatings are no harder to apply than any other sealant. Just a few tweaks to the process.

1.) Pay closer attention to where you are applying. You don't want to over-wipe and get the coating somewhere it doesn't belong. So just go a little slower.

2.) You don't let it sit for very long and flash off like you do with wax or a normal polymer coating. Work a 2' x 2' area at a time. Wipe on, wait a minute or two, wipe off, buff. The big one is throwing away the towels and applicator when you're done. When the coating dries it is glass. You don't want to reuse those towels in the future and wipe your car with glass beads. I went overboard and put a black line across each quarter of the towel as I used them and threw them in the trash when all 4 quarters on each side were used up. In reality you can use 4 towels to do the entire car and toss them when you're done.




I haven't actively tried to sell any of my less used products, but since I've been going through various products testing and finding what I like I have a bunch of stuff in my basement that is not getting used. PM me if you have any interest in some 1-2 year old, half to full bottles of product and some once or twice or potentially never used foam pads. Most of the "extra" that I'm not using is Lake Country or Chemical Guys pads and Wolfgang and Menzerna compound and polish. I also have two boxes of microfiber towels that I've decided I like less than what I'm currently using.

Last edited by Scooby921; 03-25-2019 at 10:26 AM.
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Old 03-25-2019, 04:17 PM   #21
JonnyD91
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scooby921 View Post
The ceramic maintenance coatings like Reload can be stand-alone products. You can use them as an only coating or on top of anything else. If you're washing the car monthly and applying Reload every time then you might not even need to bother with a base sealant. The Reload won't disappear that quickly. As for Reload there are plenty of reviews out there saying that it's tricky to apply. It's not. Treat it like quick detailer. Two mist sprays on a 2' x 2' area, rub it in with one side of a towel, then wipe it off with a clean side.

If you're going to use Reload on top of a base sealant then it really doesn't matter which one you use. The sealant is rarely going to be the coating trying to repel water and dirt. That's what Reload is going to do on top. Pick a coating you know and like, or one that is going to give you a nice deep shine.


You can mix a heavier cutting compound with a light cut or finishing pad to vary the results. If you aren't going for a show quality finish it's an easy way to only worry about a single product. Get a medium or heavy compound and a light cut pad and a finishing pad and you can likely one-step most anything you run across for paint issues. Use it with the finishing pad to deal with swirls. Use it with the light cut pad if you have a deeper scratch.

Alternatively you can look at a kit like Meguiar's newer DA microfiber buffing kit. Comes with cutting compound, finishing compound, 2 cutting pads, and 2 finishing pads for $70. I use Lake Country microfiber cut and finish pads with Rupes Quarz and Keramik compounds. Very similar in function by matching the cut compound to cut pad and finish compound to finish pad. Did a great job establishing a bright, deep shine on my brand new Jeep last spring. It was also good enough to get most of the water spots out of the paint on my Porsche.


Ceramic coatings are no harder to apply than any other sealant. Just a few tweaks to the process.

1.) Pay closer attention to where you are applying. You don't want to over-wipe and get the coating somewhere it doesn't belong. So just go a little slower.

2.) You don't let it sit for very long and flash off like you do with wax or a normal polymer coating. Work a 2' x 2' area at a time. Wipe on, wait a minute or two, wipe off, buff. The big one is throwing away the towels and applicator when you're done. When the coating dries it is glass. You don't want to reuse those towels in the future and wipe your car with glass beads. I went overboard and put a black line across each quarter of the towel as I used them and threw them in the trash when all 4 quarters on each side were used up. In reality you can use 4 towels to do the entire car and toss them when you're done.




I haven't actively tried to sell any of my less used products, but since I've been going through various products testing and finding what I like I have a bunch of stuff in my basement that is not getting used. PM me if you have any interest in some 1-2 year old, half to full bottles of product and some once or twice or potentially never used foam pads. Most of the "extra" that I'm not using is Lake Country or Chemical Guys pads and Wolfgang and Menzerna compound and polish. I also have two boxes of microfiber towels that I've decided I like less than what I'm currently using.
Thanks for the detailed explanations. This brings things into perspective.

I assume with the Ceramic as long as i work on 1 panel at a time within a 10 min. window I should get no overlap, and avoid the discoloring. The video actually makes it look easier than waxing due to no circular motion and rubbing in the wax.

Does this ceramic coating ever flake off, if it is actually putting on a layer of "glass"?
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Old 03-25-2019, 04:38 PM   #22
soloz2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JonnyD91 View Post
Thanks for the detailed explanations. This brings things into perspective.

I assume with the Ceramic as long as i work on 1 panel at a time within a 10 min. window I should get no overlap, and avoid the discoloring. The video actually makes it look easier than waxing due to no circular motion and rubbing in the wax.

Does this ceramic coating ever flake off, if it is actually putting on a layer of "glass"?
Never had a ceramic coating flake off. I haven't heard of others having this issue either. It's super nerve racking the first time you use it, but it's not bad once you get into the swing of it.
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Old 03-25-2019, 10:12 PM   #23
Scooby921
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I've never heard of a ceramic coating flaking off. Also never heard of discoloring. I didn't even think or care about that when applying to my car. I worked in small areas, not even full panels at a time. Gave it a little over a minute to bond with the paint, then gave myself another minute to wipe off and buff. Intentionally made sure to overlap by a few inches with each section to make sure there were no gaps in the coating.

Honestly, it's as easy as applying any other sealant or coating, just a lot shorter working time. Still, you have 5-10 minutes before if flashes off and becomes a major issue. If you can handle applying, waiting, wiping, and buffing in less than 5 minutes for a 2x2 area then you're done with the car in under an hour and it'll be perfect.

Or skip the ceramic coating. The ceramic coating and Reload (or other nano silicate maintenance products) end up beading water and shedding dust nearly equally. The difference is how long they last. A cheap ceramic coating will last you 3 years. A good one 5 years. A professional multi-layer closer to a decade. Reload is fantastic and lasts 3 months. As long as you wash your car quarterly you can achieve the same level of water shedding for less money and worry.

I won't do another ceramic coating. Not worth it in my opinion / experience. I will be using Polish Angel master sealant (lasts up to 12 months) and topping it with CarPro Reload. If you're doing it yourself the cost works out the same. $75 for the sealant and Reload to coat the car for the next 5+ years. $75 for a single layer of ceramic coating that should coat the car and last 3-5 years. If you start topping that ceramic coating it gets more expensive. Also, for the record, a ceramic coating is not immune to swirls, scratches, and water spots. It takes the damage instead of the paint, but you'd still need to polish the hell out of the car to get rid of bad water spots (I know this from experience on my ceramic coated car ).
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Old 03-26-2019, 08:57 AM   #24
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To avoid streaks with Reload, I spray the microfiber and wipe, then use the other side (lazy) with some quick detailer wipe.
I find that I get no streaks and the gloss seems much better this way.
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Old 03-26-2019, 11:33 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vapore0n View Post
To avoid streaks with Reload, I spray the microfiber and wipe, then use the other side (lazy) with some quick detailer wipe.
I find that I get no streaks and the gloss seems much better this way.
What's lazy about that? Any way that works is simply efficient. We don't all have the same towels for applying and removing. We don't all use the same amount of product. We aren't all working in the same ambient temp and humidity.
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