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Old 08-04-2015, 11:46 PM   #2926
Edgardo
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Also if I ran a better oil then shell rotella t6 which is what I was using for example torco sr1 5w-40 will that help reduce engine temps? Seems like cylinder 3 ran HOT and blew the rod since it's right next to the turbo.
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Old 08-05-2015, 01:12 AM   #2927
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Originally Posted by Edgardo View Post
Ok so I pulled my oil pan today when I got home from work. Turns out cylinder number 3 broke a rod .. That's the cylinder right next to the turbo correct? So many pieces everywhere..
The motor is seized won't even budge at all.. Could it be that too much heat plus the heat being right next to the turbo plus the mileage that I had caused it to snap? I checked the oil pick up tube for any signs of cracks but couldn't find any. Any advice guys?
If the piston is intact and the rod is in pieces it's nothing to do with anything with the tune or e85. It was just it's time. Usually it's the bolt that breaks first. An oiling issue might cause something like this, but I'm not familiar with the oiling system on the boxer, so I can't say more than: not enough oil to the piston or bearings could cause it to bind/seize.

Keep us posted. Sorry for your loss.
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Old 08-05-2015, 01:18 AM   #2928
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Originally Posted by StiLimited View Post
If the piston is intact and the rod is in pieces it's nothing to do with anything with the tune or e85. It was just it's time. Usually it's the bolt that breaks first. An oiling issue might cause something like this, but I'm not familiar with the oiling system on the boxer, so I can't say more than: not enough oil to the piston or bearings could cause it to bind/seize.

Keep us posted. Sorry for your loss.
Thanks for ur advice StiLimited. Will keep u posted once the new used motor is in.
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Old 08-06-2015, 02:38 AM   #2929
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Just found this:

Quote:

A: The EJ-series motors are good motors, and we would not call them "weak" per se. On a stock motor, the two primary weaknesses are the stock cast hypereutectic pistons and oiling to the rod bearings. The pistons (particularly on the EJ255 and EJ257) will crack if subjected to knock/detonation events. Obviously, with proper ECU tuning the engine can be kept away from the knock threshold, making the pistons not as much of an issue.

Oiling to the rod bearings is the other primary issue. We typically don't see very many problems with the EJ255 and EJ257 in this respect, but do see it more on the older EJ205. Fundamentally there isn't a big difference between the 2.0L and 2.5L motors in terms of the design of the oiling system but the EJ205 is at least 5 to 9 years old now and some have not been treated to regular maintenance with quality fluids. From the factory, the allowable range of bearing clearance is pretty broad and if you don't use quality synthetic oil and change it often it can lead to problems. The same can be said of any motor, so while not a strong point of the EJs, it should not be painted as a "bad motor" because of it.
http://www.superstreetonline.com/how...s-engine-tech/

So when you put the new engine in, pay attention to your oiling system.
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Old 08-10-2015, 03:29 AM   #2930
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Originally Posted by StiLimited View Post
Just found this:

http://www.superstreetonline.com/how...s-engine-tech/

So when you put the new engine in, pay attention to your oiling system.
StiLimited, I just got done swapping in my new motor. Motor feels reall strong and healthy. Started about right away after I primed everything. 20 hg Mercury. The only problem is I was tuned for 20 psi and the needle jumped to 25psi!!! I blipped the pedal real quick just to see what it would hit. Freakin crazy! Guess I need to take her back to the dyno..
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Old 08-10-2015, 11:12 PM   #2931
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I actually found my problem. Waste gate line popped off now I'm hitting 20 psi which is what is suppose to be hitting. Afr is 11.2
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Old 08-11-2015, 04:14 AM   #2932
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I actually found my problem. Waste gate line popped off now I'm hitting 20 psi which is what is suppose to be hitting. Afr is 11.2
Great to here it. Who is doing your tuning?
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Old 08-11-2015, 09:48 AM   #2933
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Originally Posted by StiLimited View Post
Great to here it. Who is doing your tuning?
Works Motorsports did my tune. I'm running the same tune that my last motor blew on. Tuner said everything is dialed which it shows on the accessport. Steady 11:2 afr at wide open throttle and a stead dam of 15/15. I thought dam went up to 16 but it only shows 15/15 for some reason ? Fine knock learning is 0 and Feedback knock is 0 as well. I feel like I don't need the retune. It'll just be a waste of money. What do u think stiLimited?
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Old 08-12-2015, 02:47 AM   #2934
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Originally Posted by Edgardo View Post
Works Motorsports did my tune. I'm running the same tune that my last motor blew on. Tuner said everything is dialed which it shows on the accessport. Steady 11:2 afr at wide open throttle and a stead dam of 15/15. I thought dam went up to 16 but it only shows 15/15 for some reason ? Fine knock learning is 0 and Feedback knock is 0 as well. I feel like I don't need the retune. It'll just be a waste of money. What do u think stiLimited?
If your CR, bore/stroke, head/deck did not change and if you are running the exact same piston configuration, I'd think you are okay.

If any of those changed, timing might need to be adjusted. Mostly for a gain of power or to be on the safe side, but I doubt you are on that close of a tune.

However you did pop an engine, so I'd side with caution and try to budget a tune to be sure. But before I did that, I'd buy an e85 meter so you know your exact content of e85. Search for e85 quick test and you'll find them all over the place for $20. Just test your fuel to see the consistancy from one batch to the next and tune either for the high/low or the high and the you'll run rich on the low. But the main thing to know is what the fuel is when you are tuning and to see how much your fuel changes from what your tune was on.

Also did you do anything with the oiling system? sti pan/pickup?

And of course religious oil changes.

Also there is a company Blackstone Labs that you can send away and test your oil from time to time. It's just one of those things that if you had been doing it might have warned you of a pending problem. that's a big IF I know, but it's generally pretty cheap intel. Might even be fun to test the old oil if you have any and can spare the $$.

I think the consensus with your situation was that you just got to the fatigue point of the rod or rod bolts. With the slight chance of an oiling issue. Did you save your old rod and main bearings and inspect for material transfer? That would be an indication of an oiling problem. (A Blackstone test would confirm this if it was the case if you can test some old oil) Absent that, you'll probably be good for another 160K miles. :-) (assuming 0K on the new shortblock)

Good luck. I see you as a fellow e85 warrior out there so keep up the good work. :-)

Last edited by StiLimited; 08-12-2015 at 02:47 AM. Reason: typos
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Old 08-12-2015, 03:22 AM   #2935
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Originally Posted by StiLimited View Post
If your CR, bore/stroke, head/deck did not change and if you are running the exact same piston configuration, I'd think you are okay.

If any of those changed, timing might need to be adjusted. Mostly for a gain of power or to be on the safe side, but I doubt you are on that close of a tune.

However you did pop an engine, so I'd side with caution and try to budget a tune to be sure. But before I did that, I'd buy an e85 meter so you know your exact content of e85. Search for e85 quick test and you'll find them all over the place for $20. Just test your fuel to see the consistancy from one batch to the next and tune either for the high/low or the high and the you'll run rich on the low. But the main thing to know is what the fuel is when you are tuning and to see how much your fuel changes from what your tune was on.

Also did you do anything with the oiling system? sti pan/pickup?

And of course religious oil changes.

Also there is a company Blackstone Labs that you can send away and test your oil from time to time. It's just one of those things that if you had been doing it might have warned you of a pending problem. that's a big IF I know, but it's generally pretty cheap intel. Might even be fun to test the old oil if you have any and can spare the $$.

I think the consensus with your situation was that you just got to the fatigue point of the rod or rod bolts. With the slight chance of an oiling issue. Did you save your old rod and main bearings and inspect for material transfer? That would be an indication of an oiling problem. (A Blackstone test would confirm this if it was the case if you can test some old oil) Absent that, you'll probably be good for another 160K miles. :-) (assuming 0K on the new shortblock)

Good luck. I see you as a fellow e85 warrior out there so keep up the good work. :-)
Thanks StiLimited. I feel like I know a ton of **** about my car now after spending the whole weekend getting her done. I think I will need a retune because my afr learning b is hitting a 13.6% where I've been reading that it should be within +/-5.. And that's afr learning B. A,C, and D are with +/-5. My inlet did crack as I tightened the clamp down to the turbo. I wonder if that's causing B to read so high ?
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Old 08-12-2015, 03:31 AM   #2936
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And yea I upgraded to the Sti oiling system complete.
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Old 08-19-2015, 02:10 PM   #2937
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News update. Just got my ej205 protuned again. The motor is running like a champ! Made 280wtq on a conservative tune injectors pretty much maxed out lol. Motor is spooling faster and just seems to pull healthier. It was well worth the work and patience. ^_^
E85 FTW!!
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Old 08-19-2015, 04:40 PM   #2938
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Are you guys replacing your oil filter at every oil change (~3K miles), or every other change?
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Old 08-19-2015, 05:06 PM   #2939
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:facepalm:
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Old 08-19-2015, 05:38 PM   #2940
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Are you guys replacing your oil filter at every oil change (~3K miles), or every other change?
Yes. Always replace that it on every oil change.
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Old 08-21-2015, 12:13 AM   #2941
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Originally Posted by fiatlux View Post
Are you guys replacing your oil filter at every oil change (~3K miles), or every other change?

No need to replace it man, just run some fresh oil through it to "rinse" it out and slap er back on there.
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Old 08-21-2015, 10:40 AM   #2942
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No need to replace it man, just run some fresh oil through it to "rinse" it out and slap er back on there.
Gonna have to disagree here, unless your being sarcastic. Why use a $7 quart of oil to rinse out a $5 filter?
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Old 08-22-2015, 06:33 PM   #2943
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Gonna have to disagree here, unless your being sarcastic. Why use a $7 quart of oil to rinse out a $5 filter?
You guys change your oil? Weird.
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Old 09-05-2015, 09:51 AM   #2944
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Subscribed
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Old 10-07-2015, 10:54 PM   #2945
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QQ: Can too little timing cause knock? I'm getting some indicated knock with FBKC and timing under 10 most of the time. Sometimes I'll see it when timing is up to 16/17....
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Old 10-08-2015, 07:04 AM   #2946
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QQ: Can too little timing cause knock? I'm getting some indicated knock with FBKC and timing under 10 most of the time. Sometimes I'll see it when timing is up to 16/17....
running e85 too rich can be noisy, like richer than 11.5 (gas scale)
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Old 10-08-2015, 10:24 AM   #2947
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running e85 too rich can be noisy, like richer than 11.5 (gas scale)
So yes then. Correct? (Side note, my car runs a little lean when not under boost)

Last edited by TheRedStig; 10-08-2015 at 11:29 AM.
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Old 10-08-2015, 01:57 PM   #2948
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Too little timing, no i dont think so. Knock is usually created when there are two or more sources of ignition in the cylinder, and the two flame fronts collide uncontrollably creating a massive pressure spike in the cylinder.

Your prbably picking up some engine noise, like a loose bracket, exhaust leak or something
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Old 10-08-2015, 03:01 PM   #2949
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Too little timing, no i dont think so. Knock is usually created when there are two or more sources of ignition in the cylinder, and the two flame fronts collide uncontrollably creating a massive pressure spike in the cylinder.

Your prbably picking up some engine noise, like a loose bracket, exhaust leak or something

Facinating info...Guy here in town who's tuned his own subaru says my timing looks really low. I've posted in the ecu forum here with no responses over the past few days....still trying to figure it out.
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Old 10-08-2015, 03:34 PM   #2950
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peak torque timing is similar for gas and e85, you just cant get to it on gas before knocking. I run about 18-21 at peak torque tapering up to 30ish by redline. So ya 10 low for E85 but its only at 10 becasue your knock sensor is picking up noise, sounds like your tuned for 16/17 which is a safe ideal for a 2.5L.

I dont know what area your in but its also pobbible that your getting into a lower class "E85" and tuned for 85% ethanol, if thats the case, if your pumping 70% ethanol and tuned for 85% your may be seeing noise from that too

Last edited by no694terry; 10-08-2015 at 03:41 PM.
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