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Old 05-15-2018, 01:59 PM   #1
86Dreams
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Default Keyfob doesnt work

02 WRX v8 jdm sti ecu. The keyfob does not lock or unlock the car or have any other effect on it.

I tried replacing the battery and that is not it.
The car is not in valet mode.

I recently had to remove the ecu and reinstall it. Could I have damaged it or a wire?

Anyone have any ideas on where to begin with this one?

Ive searched to no avail.
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Old 05-15-2018, 02:29 PM   #2
Mulder
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The ECU has nothing to do with the keyless entry.
Check to see if the fuse for the keyless system is blown.
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Old 05-15-2018, 02:48 PM   #3
86Dreams
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mulder View Post
The ECU has nothing to do with the keyless entry.
Check to see if the fuse for the keyless system is blown.
Thanks, I was hoping to hear something like that. Ill check it out tonight
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Old 05-15-2018, 03:53 PM   #4
fleezy
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it's also pretty easy to reprogram a fob.

also...check the battery in the fob...
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Old 05-15-2018, 04:23 PM   #5
86Dreams
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fleezy View Post
it's also pretty easy to reprogram a fob.
As in I might have changed the programming by mistake?
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Old 05-16-2018, 08:37 AM   #6
Charlie-III
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 86Dreams View Post
As in I might have changed the programming by mistake?
With power disconnected, you may lose the pairing of the FOB to the car.
The procedure is in your owners/security manual, also look at the stickie in the "security" forum section.
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Old 05-16-2018, 08:48 AM   #7
86Dreams
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Charlie-III View Post
With power disconnected, you may lose the pairing of the FOB to the car.
The procedure is in your owners/security manual, also look at the stickie in the "security" forum section.
Thanks for the tip.
I think I tried last night, the procedure i found in the fsm to repair was to click the unlock button 6 times then click the lock button once. That didnt seem to work.

Ill look through those stickies.

in the fsm there was also a guide for diagnosing the fob itself. which may be borken. depending on what button you press and how the light should blink differently. on mine no matter what I do it always turns on then turns off in about .5 seconds.

Edit/update
OK so I found the sticky youre referring to. it is here:
https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/sho....php?t=1636339
It has a totally different procedure from whats in the FSM so Ill try that at lunch and hopefully wont set my alarm of for 20 minutes like last time

Last edited by 86Dreams; 05-16-2018 at 09:30 AM.
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Old 05-16-2018, 10:38 AM   #8
bennb
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I've heard of this happening and it being the solder joints on the board inside the fob going cold. Saw a thread on another site a while back where people would resolder the two connections on the back and regain that continuity lost.
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Old 05-16-2018, 11:37 AM   #9
fleezy
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shake the fob in your hand, is there a rattle? coulda broke something inside from dropping it
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Old 05-16-2018, 12:10 PM   #10
Charlie-III
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 86Dreams View Post
Thanks for the tip.
I think I tried last night, the procedure i found in the fsm to repair was to click the unlock button 6 times then click the lock button once. That didnt seem to work.

Ill look through those stickies.

in the fsm there was also a guide for diagnosing the fob itself. which may be borken. depending on what button you press and how the light should blink differently. on mine no matter what I do it always turns on then turns off in about .5 seconds.

Edit/update
OK so I found the sticky youre referring to. it is here:
https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/sho....php?t=1636339
It has a totally different procedure from whats in the FSM so Ill try that at lunch and hopefully wont set my alarm of for 20 minutes like last time
Yep, that be it. Note, some cars around 2001 could use one of 2 methods, somewhat depends on the shape of the FOB.
Late in that thread, I noted a car that used a different method than the year listed in post 1.

Quote:
Originally Posted by bennb View Post
I've heard of this happening and it being the solder joints on the board inside the fob going cold. Saw a thread on another site a while back where people would resolder the two connections on the back and regain that continuity lost.
I know from some other brands the battery connection to the board can crack.
Make sure the contacts to battery are clean and tight, may need to reflow the solder on the contact/board connection.
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Old 05-16-2018, 03:49 PM   #11
1ucky11
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When i bought my sti recently it didn’t come with fobs, so I order new ones off of amazon, programmed it using YouTube instructions, everything works perfect
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Old 05-16-2018, 04:56 PM   #12
86Dreams
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1ucky11 View Post
When i bought my sti recently it didnít come with fobs, so I order new ones off of amazon, programmed it using YouTube instructions, everything works perfect
What model year and what youtube? you have to be much more specific than that.
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Old 05-16-2018, 07:01 PM   #13
86Dreams
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So the instructions in that sticky worked. I have successfully re-paired the keyfob!

I think what happened was before I took out my ecu I held the brake and horn buttons to try to discharge the electrical system. apparantly it worked better than expected.

Thanks for all of the help
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Old 05-16-2018, 10:50 PM   #14
Charlie-III
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Great news, glad you got it.
Oh, and thanks for closing out this issue.

PS, do you remember which method worked?
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Old 05-17-2018, 09:51 AM   #15
86Dreams
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Charlie-III View Post
Great news, glad you got it.
Oh, and thanks for closing out this issue.

PS, do you remember which method worked?
I hate when a thread ends with no resolution!

Heres som additional information. In the engine bay on the 02 wrx the appropriate fuse is no.2, but this is for the entire 'clock room' so if this fuse was bad your radio would also not be working. In the cabin fuse box under the dash the fuse I checked was in the top row and third column from the left. Pulling this disabled the lock/unlock button on the door from being used, I dont know that it actually affects the keyless entry unit itself.

I used the following method ro re-pair my fob.

Quote:
Originally Posted by https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1636339
For 2001-2006 Models:
(the oblong remote with either 2 grey buttons or a blue and orange button)
EDIT: Replacement remotes are the newer teardrop shape, but are programmed the same way. The 'trunk' button is another way to put the alarm in and out of valet mode.

**Make sure all windows, doors, hood and trunk are closed.
**Get in and close the door.
**Turn the key in the ignition to the 'ON" position 10 times within 15 seconds
**You should hear the horn/chirp
**Open and close the drivers side door.
**Press one button on the remote
**Open and close the drives side door
**If you have other remotes, repeat the last 2 steps for all remotes
**Remove key from the ignition
**The horn should beep/chirp again
**Check remote(s)

NOTE: If you mess up during any of the steps, remove the key from the ignition, open and close the drivers side door and start over.

NOTE: You must program all remotes at the same time. Remotes not programmed at the same time will no longer work.
Also I have 0 regrets spending $7 on a new battery for the fob, I think they were CR2032 and came in a 2 pack. I dont have to push the buttons so many times to get it to respond now.

Last edited by 86Dreams; 05-17-2018 at 09:58 AM.
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Old 05-17-2018, 05:16 PM   #16
Charlie-III
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Excellent, thanks again.
On one Subie I re-paired FOB's, I had to use a slightly older version (car was a 2001 RS, factory keyless) programming.
Thus my late post in the alarm thread.

Basically, if your system is on the year cusp, try the early as well as later suggestions. Lots easier/cheaper than going somewhere.
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Old 05-18-2018, 01:44 PM   #17
R1Armadillo
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I know $7 isn't necessarily ridiculous for button batteries, but if you have a "dollar store" in your area, they usually carry these (in two packs) for, you guessed it, a DOLLAR!
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