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Old 03-22-2017, 12:02 PM   #1326
scotte30m3
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So this happened late last summer and I finally got the car back together a couple of weeks ago.

Model/Year:WRX Base 2015
Mileage: 28,9xx
EM: - Bren e-Tuning
Mods: Turboback, EBC, TGV upper, lower and head dividers deletes, EGR delete, 3.5" intake, TMIC, steam STX71
Fuel: 93 / e85 mix
Oil: Subaru 5w-30
Circumstances: logging pull, 3rd gear 5k+ RPM, spun #2 bearing and the rest followed suit.
Cause: Tired oil (4k on oil change), high heat, stock bearings

Put an OEM short block back in it... currently the car is back to stock, trying to decided if I want to reinstall all the mods or buy a different car. I have KB EWG header sitting in my garage egging me on...

As a side note, The car sat at the dealer for nearly 6 months with e85 blend in the tank. So, right after I got the car back the HPFP, LPFP and the in tank fuel control module failed. Dealer replaced the fuel system under warranty because the car was already back to stock.

I was 100% transparent with the Dealer and SOA about the status of the car. The dealer ultimately neglected to repair the car in a timely manner.
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Last edited by scotte30m3; 03-22-2017 at 06:36 PM.
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Old 03-22-2017, 12:10 PM   #1327
simpleJ
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Bearings 2 and 3 get starved of oil more easily due to the common journal, and lack of bearing oiling priority in the engine.

I would encourage 40w oil for highly modified cars and high rpm usages for this reason
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Old 03-22-2017, 12:26 PM   #1328
mishapopa
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Serious question, you start deleting ****, replacing parts, adding HUNDREDS of horsepower to the car, and driving like your ass is on fire. Your motor gets damaged.

Do you take it back to stock, tow it to the dealer and act like it blew stock (which is warranty fraud)? When I bought my car I asked my local dealer about an accessport and they said that will void my powertrain warranty, PERIOD. Don't even want to know what they'll say about a whole exhaust, intake, intercooler, chargepipe, and +100HP tune.

I mean, I wouldn't even be asking this if people weren't claiming they got a new engine under warranty. Seems like a grey area. Because I'd rather forgo my car for 6 months and get a free engine than spend thousands to get a built one shipped and go through the time, work, and cost of putting it in. And if this happens during winter, might just take almost a year.
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Old 03-22-2017, 12:58 PM   #1329
simpleJ
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That's a question of personal honesty.

That's between you, Jesus, and subaru
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Old 03-22-2017, 02:06 PM   #1330
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Quote:
Originally Posted by simpleJ View Post
That's a question of personal honesty.

That's between you, Jesus, and subaru
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Old 03-22-2017, 02:21 PM   #1331
WRXTACY
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I would not trust etunes from Bren anymore...
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Old 03-22-2017, 03:07 PM   #1332
simpleJ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WRXTACY View Post
I would not trust etunes from Bren anymore...
Subaru 5w30 on a 4000 mile OCI in a car pushing 120+ chp (probably even more) more than it left the factory with (which means more heat, which means more shear) in a motor known to have oil pressure problems at the #2 and #3 bearings with high rpm, high power usage, and you don't trust bren e-tune after one pops the #2 bearing

Huh....I'd love to hear this theory

Oil probably had a 100 cSt of like 8 when it came out of that motor
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Old 03-22-2017, 05:07 PM   #1333
Chuckable
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WRXTACY View Post
I would not trust etunes from Bren anymore...


Not really sure the basis of this statement either?
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Old 03-22-2017, 05:22 PM   #1334
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chuckable View Post
Not really sure the basis of this statement either?
statistics? though the last one was an oil related failure
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Old 03-22-2017, 05:54 PM   #1335
simpleJ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mishapopa View Post
statistics? though the last one was an oil related failure
How many bren etunes have actually failed? 3? 4?


They've done over 1500...
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Old 03-22-2017, 06:03 PM   #1336
mishapopa
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Quote:
Originally Posted by simpleJ View Post
How many bren etunes have actually failed? 3? 4?


They've done over 1500...
yes, i'm aware. i was literally asking in behalf of the guy who posted the original thing about bren. sorry if it sounded like sarcasm
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Old 03-22-2017, 06:16 PM   #1337
scotte30m3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WRXTACY View Post
I would not trust etunes from Bren anymore...
My spun bearing has nothing to do with Bren's etune... that's an unfair judgment based on my engine failure...
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Old 03-22-2017, 06:26 PM   #1338
scotte30m3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by simpleJ View Post
That's a question of personal honesty.

That's between you, Jesus, and subaru
LOL

I dropped my car off 100% modified. Then after it sat for 6 months I brought it home and put it back to stock. SOA split the cost with me because I had to take it to another dealer... it was a good faith repair because of how badly the other dealer treated me.

The fuel system just happen to go out after the fact and the car was still stock. That's why they covered it.
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Old 03-22-2017, 06:30 PM   #1339
scotte30m3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by simpleJ View Post
Subaru 5w30 on a 4000 mile OCI in a car pushing 120+ chp (probably even more) more than it left the factory with (which means more heat, which means more shear) in a motor known to have oil pressure problems at the #2 and #3 bearings with high rpm, high power usage, and you don't trust bren e-tune after one pops the #2 bearing

Huh....I'd love to hear this theory

Oil probably had a 100 cSt of like 8 when it came out of that motor
Right...

my car was pushing right at 400 to the wheels. It felt strong and logs were good. this definitely was not a tuning issue.

Last edited by scotte30m3; 03-22-2017 at 06:44 PM.
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Old 03-22-2017, 06:43 PM   #1340
scotte30m3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by simpleJ View Post
Bearings 2 and 3 get starved of oil more easily due to the common journal, and lack of bearing oiling priority in the engine.

I would encourage 40w oil for highly modified cars and high rpm usages for this reason
5-w40 10, 20, which one?
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Old 03-22-2017, 06:55 PM   #1341
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WRBWRX15 View Post
Damn ... So you blew 2 engines 1 at 16k miles and your fresh built engine?? , what turbo on each setup when they blew ?
Original owner (Turn in Concepts) spun a bearing at 6k. It was re-built then. I bought the car with around 12-13k miles on it.

It has 28ish k on it now, hence 22k on the built motor.
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Old 03-22-2017, 06:57 PM   #1342
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Originally Posted by That_Boosted_Life View Post
Do you notice any amount of coolant missing from the reservoir? White smoke is almost definitely coolant so maybe a head gasket did go. How does the oil level and color look? Is it low, are there metal shavings, or does it look kind of like a milkshake?

I would also check spark plugs as one could have failed and put a hole in the piston. It would also give you an indication if there is coolant and/or oil in the combustion chamber as the spark plug itself may be coated.
Yeah there is a bit of coolant missing from the reservoir/radiator.

I drained the oil and it looked clean (used, but clean). There was no metal shavings at all and no milkshake color or consistency. It wasn't really low, normal amount came out.

I had just replaced the spark plugs a couple hundred miles earlier, everything torque'd to spec., new plugs all gapped per factory specs. Was runnin great.

Haven't taken any of them out to look though, been so busy with work. Maybe I can take a look tonight.

It actually helped me find an exhaust leak too...the flex section of my downpipe has been scraped...coolant was leaking out from that area ...lol.
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Old 03-22-2017, 07:57 PM   #1343
simpleJ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scotte30m3 View Post
5-w40 10, 20, which one?
I use 0w nov-march and 5w April-oct
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Old 03-22-2017, 08:29 PM   #1344
natman2
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Two WRX s, 335, and one STI, tuned, modded and driven. Rotella T6 5w-40 3k interval FTW. My opinion.......
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Old 03-22-2017, 09:44 PM   #1345
immortal
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Quote:
Originally Posted by That_Boosted_Life View Post
Do you notice any amount of coolant missing from the reservoir? White smoke is almost definitely coolant so maybe a head gasket did go. How does the oil level and color look? Is it low, are there metal shavings, or does it look kind of like a milkshake?

I would also check spark plugs as one could have failed and put a hole in the piston. It would also give you an indication if there is coolant and/or oil in the combustion chamber as the spark plug itself may be coated.



old close up:


new close up:


looks like i leaned out...

Last edited by immortal; 03-22-2017 at 09:53 PM.
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Old 03-23-2017, 08:00 AM   #1346
That_Boosted_Life
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Quote:
Originally Posted by immortal View Post
new close up:


looks like i leaned out...
The one on the far left definetly looks lean. That or thats the cylinder the coolant entered and cleaned the plug off, as the threads towards the bottom look really clean compared to the others. The one next to it (2nd from left) looks like it has a oily residue on the electrode. I would say the right two look about right. Curious if the left two spark plugs were on the same side of the engine
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Old 03-25-2017, 05:14 PM   #1347
immortal
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Quote:
Originally Posted by That_Boosted_Life View Post
The one on the far left definetly looks lean. That or thats the cylinder the coolant entered and cleaned the plug off, as the threads towards the bottom look really clean compared to the others. The one next to it (2nd from left) looks like it has a oily residue on the electrode. I would say the right two look about right. Curious if the left two spark plugs were on the same side of the engine
Yup, cylinder #3 was the c"lean" one. #1 is the "oily" looking one, but it must be the camera or flash because it's not oily at all in person. they are all just darkened minus cyl #3.
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Old 04-04-2017, 12:44 AM   #1348
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After reading through the thread I learned that max power at >4k RPM helps decrease cylinder pressure which causes the rods to buckle.

I see there being two options for my future build:
A. A rod buckles and then I buy a Stage 3 IAG shortblock or a Outfront closed deck and repair any other damage -or-
B. I rebuild the motor on stock Subaru case halves with new pistons, rods, and bearings

For people that have rebuilt their motor, now, in retrospect - would you have built your motor before trying to make more power? Just wondering what's most cost effective.
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Old 04-04-2017, 01:59 AM   #1349
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Has anyone had a '17 motor fail? Little worried after reading this thread about the fa motors.
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Old 04-04-2017, 09:51 AM   #1350
That_Boosted_Life
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Quote:
Originally Posted by subieXe View Post
For people that have rebuilt their motor, now, in retrospect - would you have built your motor before trying to make more power? Just wondering what's most cost effective.
I haven't built my motor, but the most common way the FA motor fails is by throwing a rod. When this happens, it takes the case halves, and most likely the cylinder head with it. Not sure what the cost of a cylinder head is (new or used), but I bet they are around $500 each.
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