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Old 05-24-2010, 05:58 PM   #76
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i pm'd him something more private.

but, no, I do not recall the depth off the top of my head.
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Old 05-24-2010, 06:04 PM   #77
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I'm just busting your bawlz.


I just ordered some Heli-Coils for my brakes. Only one stripped out on the front, but I'm going to do all four holes to ensure I don't have this happen at another time with the other holes.
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Old 06-13-2010, 03:52 PM   #78
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FYI: I bought the replacement bolts from my local dealer. They cost almost $45.00CAD (for all 8)
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Old 06-13-2010, 04:18 PM   #79
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anyone had success in eliminating this issue by applying anti-seize?
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Old 06-13-2010, 04:24 PM   #80
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I'll find out during my next brake service (after fixing the problem).
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Old 06-13-2010, 06:42 PM   #81
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I'm replacing a caliper due to this same problem right now, and am probably going to have to go the helicoil route because the aluminum threads in the caliper probably won't last too long when repeatedly taking them off to swap pads before/after track days.
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Old 06-14-2010, 10:59 AM   #82
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Quote:
Originally Posted by txl146 View Post
anyone had success in eliminating this issue by applying anti-seize?
Nope. It will still happen eventually if removed enough.

Another helpful hint is to not follow the recommended torque spec as it is way too high. I torque to about 60 ftlbs.

Tony
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Old 06-14-2010, 05:00 PM   #83
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Just to confirm, when doing my brakes, I should have 10Mx1.5 and 12Mx1.5 helicoils on hand... correct? I see some people saying that the threads are 1.5 "fine" but 1.5 is coarse... 1.25 is fine.
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Old 06-14-2010, 05:06 PM   #84
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JiveMasterT View Post
Just to confirm, when doing my brakes, I should have 10Mx1.5 and 12Mx1.5 helicoils on hand... correct? I see some people saying that the threads are 1.5 "fine" but 1.5 is coarse... 1.25 is fine.

The line between fine and coarse changes depending on both thickness I believe. I think 1.5 is fine on a M12, but coarse on a M10.
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Old 06-14-2010, 05:12 PM   #85
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The line between fine and coarse changes depending on both thickness I believe. I think 1.5 is fine on a M12, but coarse on a M10.
Gotcha. Ok so I need a 10Mx1.5 and a 12Mx1.5 right?
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Old 06-15-2010, 12:42 AM   #86
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thepigsti View Post
I'm replacing a caliper due to this same problem right now, and am probably going to have to go the helicoil route because the aluminum threads in the caliper probably won't last too long when repeatedly taking them off to swap pads before/after track days.
Some people have gone with the helicoil repair solution, but the timeserts are a MUCH more robust solution.

Those bolts are the only thing keeping your caliper from moving when you apply the brakes.

FWIW, that's my opinion, and that's why I'm using timeserts rather than helicoils.
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Old 06-15-2010, 02:19 AM   #87
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The timeserts are nice. The cost is a bit high for my tastes though. I've used helicoil on several standard calipers (non-brembos) and it has been VERY good when installed properly. I'm thinking about installing a helicoil insert into a block of aluminum and then threading a bolt into it. Then I'm going to take it to work and put it on our instron machine and measure the tensile strength to failure. I have a feeling it will end up maxing the machine out with the current load cells we have.

While this isn't a totally accurate test because in your braking application, the bolt is in shear, it will still yield (pardon the engineering pun ) some interesting info. I wish i had a way to test it in shear since that's closer to what's happening in you caliper application.
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Old 06-15-2010, 05:01 AM   #88
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thepigsti View Post
I'm replacing a caliper due to this same problem right now, and am probably going to have to go the helicoil route because the aluminum threads in the caliper probably won't last too long when repeatedly taking them off to swap pads before/after track days.
Pretty sure you can change the pads without unbolting the calipers? Do you mean the rotors?
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Old 06-15-2010, 09:29 AM   #89
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I may have posted this already but:

The torque specs for the front caliper bolts for the Brembo calipers is 80Lb/ft.

The repair manual incorrectly states the torque spec at 114.3Lb/ft. Apparently the 114.3 should be Newton-Meters which converts to approximately 80Lb/ft.

This was confirmed with SOA by a member of IWSTI: http://www.iwsti.com/forums/gd-braki...per-bolts.html
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Old 06-15-2010, 10:28 AM   #90
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Quote:
Originally Posted by minifreak View Post
Pretty sure you can change the pads without unbolting the calipers? Do you mean the rotors?
On the sti nothing is required to be removed for a pad swap, save the wheel and two pins. An entire brake job can be done on the sti with a wheel wrench and some needle nose pliers. (Plus a 10mm closed end wrench for bleeding)
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Old 11-10-2010, 11:50 AM   #91
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Does anybody know the mm depth needed for timeserts on front (12x1.5) and rear (10x1.5) STI Brembos? Thanks.


They appear to be available in:

6.7
9.2
16.2
24.0
30.0 depths


for 12x1.5

and

9.4
11.0
14.0
17.0
20.0
22.0
24.5
30.0
40.0 depths

for 10x1.5
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Old 12-18-2010, 01:09 PM   #92
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I'm GUESSING 16.2mm front, since fleadog said the calipers are 20mm thick earlier in this thread, and 14mm for the rear. Those just happen to be the sizes marked in red on their website, that comes with the kits.
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Old 03-31-2011, 03:23 PM   #93
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this $hit has happened to me twice now since owning my car.first time was when i did front brakes at 45k miles.now at 69k miles i have to do a right front wheel bearing. ridiculous. both the top and bottom caliper bolts are broken.special order part from local subaru dealer. wtf!
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Old 03-31-2011, 03:34 PM   #94
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rallyracersti View Post
this $hit has happened to me twice now since owning my car.first time was when i did front brakes at 45k miles.now at 69k miles i have to do a right front wheel bearing. ridiculous. both the top and bottom caliper bolts are broken.special order part from local subaru dealer. wtf!
They are cheap enough to keep some extras on hand. Just get them from any of the online subaru parts distributors. subaruonlineparts is usually among the cheapest.

It happens once and then after that you just have the stuff on hand to fix it. Last time it happened I replaced all of the bolts and cleaned up the caliper threads.
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Old 03-31-2011, 06:25 PM   #95
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You can pick up replacement bolts from Fastenal.
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Old 04-01-2011, 11:07 AM   #96
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ordered a helicoil kit and its about $60.hopefully it arrives today so i can attempt to fix it asap.
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Old 04-01-2011, 11:14 AM   #97
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Whoa! $60?! I got mine for like $20 on Amazon.com 2 day shipped. I guess when you need to get your car on the road, shopping for prices isn't really an option.
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Old 04-01-2011, 11:16 AM   #98
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This just happened to me a couple weeks ago.

I was able to extract the bolt with a easy out, hammer, and a pick. Took 2 days.

salvaged enough of the hole that I didn't need to helicoil it. Just retapped it.

I chronicled this in a thread "what is it not ok to antiseize"
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Old 05-15-2011, 02:40 PM   #99
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This just happened to me too. Both bolts in the RF, one in the LF had to be drilled and helicoiled.

Today, I went to install speed bleeders. 7 of 8 went fine. The last one (RR, inside) has no threads left in the caliper after pulling out the stock bleeder screw.

I Fing hate these brembos. Totally not worth it.
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Old 05-15-2011, 11:42 PM   #100
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wow, it's upsetting to see that such an apparent design flaw was overlooked and has caused so much angst. I was cursing the engineers responsible when it happened to me back in 2005 and started this thread!

Believe it or not I still have my car and it's been a while since I've pulled off my calipers. I will be doing a 5x114.3 conversion in a couple of weeks and I'm putting money on the fact that I will be buying some helicoils during the process. CAN'T WAIT
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