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Old 04-12-2018, 09:51 AM   #1
danscomp
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Default New power steering reservoir

I had a previous designed PS resi, but I was having issues with the pump whining. I think my mistake was that although the volume was correct, the orientation was wrong. It was a long and wide rectangle, but the height was low, so there was lots of opportunity for aeration.

This version I've got a 12" long, 3" od, 1/16" wall alu tube as the body. To stop excessive sloshing up, and reduce a venturi effect from the return I've got a 0.04" aluminum mesh (which welded AWFULLY) with end caps.

Standard 3/4" out with 3/8" in to match existing lines from the pump and cooler. Cap is vented to ensure I don't put this system under vacuum.

Biggest thing about this project was it was my first time using the manual lathe with no oversight. Not perfect (I can't seem to figure out the boring bar yet...) but a good first start.


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Old 04-12-2018, 10:32 AM   #2
rtv900
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Quote:
Originally Posted by danscomp View Post
I've got a 0.04" aluminum mesh (which welded AWFULLY) with end caps.

Biggest thing about this project was it was my first time using the manual lathe with no oversight. Not perfect (I can't seem to figure out the boring bar yet...) but a good first start.
yeah that weld up top there looks a little rough.
Is that your weld on the bottle to the right? That one looks great.
Why did the ends weld so bad? Is that mesh just super thin or are you also new to aluminum?

What issues are you having with a boring bar on a manual lathe?
What were you boring?
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Old 04-12-2018, 11:46 AM   #3
danscomp
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Originally Posted by rtv900 View Post
yeah that weld up top there looks a little rough.
Is that your weld on the bottle to the right? That one looks great.
Why did the ends weld so bad? Is that mesh just super thin or are you also new to aluminum?

What issues are you having with a boring bar on a manual lathe?
What were you boring?
The top was bad since the rings were 1/8" 6061 and the mesh is 0.04" random material. Plus with the perforation it couldnt take ANY heat.

The rest of the welds came out nice. I'm not new to aluminum but I'm also not a welder/fabricator. Usually looks like the picture below.

It kept squealing like crazy. No matter the depth of cut or RPM. I THINK it may have been the cutter being better suited to steel based on the chip ejection angle, but thats just a guess. The top and bottom caps I bored out 2" dia x 1/8" deep for "weight savings" (aka I just wanted to try boring haha)

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Old 04-12-2018, 12:29 PM   #4
rtv900
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.040!!!!!! Dang, well you certainly have an excuse for bad welds. It's tough enough welding drastically different thicknesses, but .040 WITH holes is ridiculous.
I do one job with material that thin but both pieces are that thin, and it's a nightmare. I think I use 1/16" electrode and maybe 40 amps, it's like threading a needle.

For the boring, if it was screaming no matter how much you were taking you probably weren't on center or had an insert raked way off piling up chips. Plus aluminum likes tons of coolant and super high rpm so if it's an old dog manual lathe I'm sure the coolant supply isn't the greatest.
If the bar was really thin that always makes it suck too, but taking less of a cut would typically solve it.

Those welds in the pic above look nice.
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Old 08-10-2018, 05:56 PM   #5
Marblized
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Looks good man. No shame on a shifty weld. We’ve all been there! Any issues with whining from the pump with the new setup?
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Old 08-11-2018, 12:25 PM   #6
Homemade WRX
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Why so big on the volume? Also, why did you insulate it? I'd think the fluid would be hotter than the engine bay...unless you're running a cooler, then it makes sense.
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Old 08-13-2018, 09:37 AM   #7
danscomp
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Big volume was just based on wanting less chance of airation and more heat capacity of the system. The gold tape is meant to reflect heat, but I'm also running a PS cooler.

The pump was whining before, seems to have gotten better (Before I was running v1 of my design and it wasn't ideal)
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Old 08-13-2018, 10:03 AM   #8
Charlie-III
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What year and model car?
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Old 08-13-2018, 01:05 PM   #9
Wayne Suhrbier
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A trick to welding very thin to thicker is to never have the arc from the electrode hit the thin material. Either let the puddle flow over and melt the thin stuff or put the arc on the filler rod and use that as a heat sink.
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Old 08-13-2018, 08:08 PM   #10
danscomp
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Charlie-III View Post
What year and model car?
04 RS (but its boosted with a rotated turbo setup and rwd and etc...)

Quote:
Originally Posted by Wayne Suhrbier View Post
WhA trick to welding very thin to thicker is to never have the arc from the electrode hit the thin material. Either let the puddle flow over and melt the thin stuff or put the arc on the filler rod and use that as a heat sink. :
I will definitely try that next time. I've got some 0.04" solid alu I need to weld up soon. No more perforated thankfully. Thanks
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