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Old 03-15-2018, 01:49 AM   #1
Stickers
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Default Need help: Making a baseplate

Hey guys,

I'd like to make a custom baseplate for carbon mirrors, similar to ones like these (Link here).

I'm hoping to use aluminum so I don't have to deal with rust, and cut it with aviation snips rather than a jigsaw.

If anyone has recommendations on gauge of aluminum to use, preferred brand of snips, tips and tricks for drilling the holes, etc etc, I would appreciate it!

Will post up pictures when the mirrors arrive, this will probably become my thread of possible mishaps in doing my first metal fab work.
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Old 03-15-2018, 10:28 AM   #2
Homemade WRX
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You'll note the first ones you can view on there are also using countersunk fasteners, which looks much nicer. To be able to do that correctly, you need to use a material thick enough for the fastener size. The countersunk fastener data can easily be googled for the bolt size you'll need.

If you can't do that, you can get countersunk 'washers' and use a thinner plate, and allow for a cleaner install. Lots of options there.

https://www.google.com/search?q=alum...w=1600&bih=922
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Old 03-15-2018, 11:25 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Homemade WRX View Post
You'll note the first ones you can view on there are also using countersunk fasteners, which looks much nicer. To be able to do that correctly, you need to use a material thick enough for the fastener size. The countersunk fastener data can easily be googled for the bolt size you'll need.

If you can't do that, you can get countersunk 'washers' and use a thinner plate, and allow for a cleaner install. Lots of options there.

https://www.google.com/search?q=alum...w=1600&bih=922
Yep, part way down from post 1, looks more like 1/8" or so aluminum plate. NOT something "snips" are cutting.
If you go thin, the dang mirrors will wobble at any speed above about 40MPH, not ideal.
So, do it right, do it twice or live with wobble?!?!
Your choice.

I would suggest 1/8" or 3/16" aluminum plate, use a jigsaw with a metal blade, files edges smoother, then drill holes. Yes, you can use a belt sander to smooth the edges as well.
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Old 03-15-2018, 12:10 PM   #4
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I'd go 3/16" and put a nice chamfer on the upper edges. Would allow that M6(?) countersunk head to sit flush.

Quick fastener guide at my desk shows 3.72 mm (0.1465") for an m6 countersunk fastener.

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Old 03-15-2018, 08:10 PM   #5
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Thanks guys!

Iím trying to figure out how to get access to tools / workshop area now. Itíll be a lot easier than fudging around with a pair of snips in my carport.

Expecting my shipment next week. Weíll see what happens after they arrive and I get a good look at them.
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Old 03-16-2018, 11:26 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stickers View Post
I’m trying to figure out how to get access to tools / workshop area now. It’ll be a lot easier than fudging around with a pair of snips in my carport.
perhaps you should look into some sort of maker space, to learn how to use their equipment?

a quick googlez and i found this one in LA:
https://www.hexlabmakerspace.com/
looks like they have a laser cutter, which would work well for something like your base plate.

or talk to a laser/plasma cutter shop or a waterjet shop...?

are these dudes are in your area?
http://latestconceptsinc.com/5-waterjet.html

Last edited by isotopesope; 03-16-2018 at 11:33 AM.
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Old 03-19-2018, 11:27 PM   #7
Stickers
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Installed!



But in serious news, mirrors have arrived.

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Old 03-22-2018, 02:22 AM   #8
Stickers
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Sooooo....

Baseplate is one issue.

Mounting the mirror arm to the baseplate is a separate and completely different beast.

In order for the ball joint to work I need:

M12-1.0 thread pitch bolt
15mm exposed length
12mm of thread length
3mm smooth surface for set screw
Concave depression at bolt end for ball joint swivel

Solution?

M12-1 to 3AN brake fittting adapter.

12.5mm 3AN side
12.5mm M12-1.0 side
5mm hex bolt center

I plan to smooth down the hex bolt until it can fit inside the last few mm needed on the mirror side.

Then cut the hole in the mounting plate with the correct 3AN thread pitch so I can have it thread directly into the base and then put a nut and bit of threadlocker on the back side so it won’t wobble its way out.

It is raining in my area right now, but I’ll need to get the fitting piece first so I can even do that as a proof of concept before starting the baseplate side of the work.

Anyone know where I can even pick up one of these in-person? I’ve been searching online but have only found them on a few places for $12+.

Last edited by Stickers; 03-22-2018 at 12:59 PM.
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