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Old 09-02-2017, 11:58 AM   #1
Cameron Decker
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Default Aluminum Lugs for Daily Driving

I have a 2014 WRX that is a daily driver...I recently picked up a set of Volk TE37 wheels and still need to purchase tuner lugs. I have looked online and found Volk M12 X P 1.25 tuner lugs available in Forged steel as well as forged aluminum. The forged aluminum are a bit lighter and I would like to go with them if they are strong enough for a daily driver...any feedback/experience is appreciated
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Old 09-02-2017, 12:06 PM   #2
sc00by4life
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you're talking about lug nuts. and a daily. throw *lighter* out the window because a couple ounces won't help you get to the grocery store any faster.

I would *never* want aluminum lugs. Prone to galvanic corrosion and generally get destroyed pretty quickly.

theres no real other choice than steel.
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Old 09-02-2017, 12:13 PM   #3
Cameron Decker
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Thanks for the fast reply...my gut told me aluminum might be strictly for racing but wanted to make sure. Price is roughly the same for each option. Appreciate the feedback
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Old 09-02-2017, 12:40 PM   #4
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I would also add that garages, oil change shops, and tire / wheel shops will strip aluminum lug threads a lot of the time when working with them. I think titanium lugs would work as well. Don't know what your price range is but Project Kics makes some nice ones:
https://www.rallysportdirect.com/par...g-nuts-12x1-25
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Old 09-02-2017, 06:04 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sc00by4life View Post
I would *never* want aluminum lugs. Prone to galvanic corrosion and generally get destroyed pretty quickly.
Poppycock. I've run the Volk/Rays duralumin (aluminum alloy) lug nuts for years and have never had any issues with them. Well over 100,000 miles of daily driver, auto-x, and open track use, including through winters in New England and the PacNW. I didn't do anything differently to them than what I do with steel lug nuts.

With that said, there are certainly plenty of good lug nut options that don't cost anywhere near as much as the Rays duralumin lug nuts.
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Old 09-04-2017, 06:41 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Patrick Olsen View Post
Poppycock. I've run the Volk/Rays duralumin (aluminum alloy) lug nuts for years and have never had any issues with them. Well over 100,000 miles of daily driver, auto-x, and open track use, including through winters in New England and the PacNW. I didn't do anything differently to them than what I do with steel lug nuts.

With that said, there are certainly plenty of good lug nut options that don't cost anywhere near as much as the Rays duralumin lug nuts.
and you have the opposite experience as mine.

every aluminum lug I've ever used has shredded to pieces after a handful or removals. Work being the worst.
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Old 09-04-2017, 07:25 PM   #7
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i just dont get the point. even if you could somehow hold the wheel on without any lugs you would only save maybe a pound. lug nuts would be one of the last places i would look for weight savings. you could get ones that have the hole all the way through instead of an acorn nut to save some material and still have strong steel threads. lugs are the most important fastener on the car and need to be strong.
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Old 09-05-2017, 08:35 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sc00by4life View Post
every aluminum lug I've ever used has shredded to pieces after a handful or removals.
You must really be ham-fisted if it only takes you a "handful of removals" to ruin them. I bought mine while I was stationed in HI, some time in 2003 or 2004, and I still have them. I can't count the number of times they've been on and off for wheel swaps, brake jobs, suspension work, etc.


Quote:
Originally Posted by CarmelValleyWRX View Post
lugs are the most important fastener on the car and need to be strong.
They are strong. The yield strength is comparable to the steel that would be used for typical lug nuts.
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Old 09-06-2017, 04:15 PM   #9
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I'm with Patrick. Used forged aluminum (extended open-end) lugnuts on my car and never had an issue, however I did take more care (cleaning, torque-ing, etc) than I do with my steel lugnuts. I took the car to a tire shop ONE time and they asked for the lug key, I told them to take the car off the lift pronto...
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Old 09-06-2017, 04:53 PM   #10
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I have used aluminum Project Kics Leggduras on my car for years now with no issues. The only thing I could see going wrong is if you use an impact gun with them. An impact gun is to NOT be used when installing aluminum lugs. If you take your time with a tire iron you will be fine.
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Old 09-07-2017, 12:41 PM   #11
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I'd agree with Patric that they can be used on the street, but why bother. I prefer less fuss and a far less chance of cross threading with steel over aluminum.
Do you really trust a tire/wheel tech to be careful with them? I wouldn't.
In my opinion there is no advantage using them on a street car.
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Old 09-11-2017, 05:51 PM   #12
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No problem running aluminium lugs. I ran MXP opended lugs on Works and Rays wheels.

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Old 09-12-2017, 11:58 AM   #13
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Should you choose to run aluminum nuts, and your car sees winters where they use salt on the roads I will very strongly encourage you to use anti-seize on the threads. You will have to adjust torque accordingly.
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Old 09-12-2017, 12:43 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Turn in Concepts View Post
Should you choose to run aluminum nuts, and your car sees winters where they use salt on the roads I will very strongly encourage you to use anti-seize on the threads. You will have to adjust torque accordingly.
Use the anti-seize whether your car sees winters or not.
Porsche used aluminum lug nuts on most 911s. They included a small bottle of copper anti-seize and said to use it every time.
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Old 09-12-2017, 11:17 PM   #15
Cameron Decker
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Default Thanks

Thanks for all the responses...I went with aluminum lugs and torqued them by hand to spec using anti seize compound on the studs.

Last edited by Cameron Decker; 09-12-2017 at 11:31 PM. Reason: No image
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Old 09-13-2017, 07:29 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cameron Decker View Post
Thanks for all the responses...I went with aluminum lugs and torqued them by hand to spec using anti seize compound on the studs.
You might want to do it again but don't put the anti-seize on the studs.
Put it on the contact face of the nuts instead.
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Old 09-13-2017, 12:54 PM   #17
Cameron Decker
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Thx Plecain...taking it in to TIC in a few weeks for RCE Black springs/Konis/Whiteline Sway Bars/KB End Links. I will ask them to apply anti-seize to the face then. I tried to attach a photo (unsuccessfully) but I am not in love with the ride height...the gap between the tires and wheelwells looks a bit too large.
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Old 09-13-2017, 01:00 PM   #18
Cameron Decker
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Sits too high...especially in the front


Last edited by Cameron Decker; 09-13-2017 at 01:03 PM. Reason: Edit
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Old 09-13-2017, 01:01 PM   #19
Cameron Decker
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