Welcome to the North American Subaru Impreza Owners Club Thursday October 18, 2018
Home Forums WikiNASIOC Products Store Modifications Upgrade Garage
NASIOC
Go Back   NASIOC > NASIOC General > Car Care & Detailing

Welcome to NASIOC - The world's largest online community for Subaru enthusiasts!
Welcome to the NASIOC.com Subaru forum.

You are currently viewing our forum as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community, free of charge, you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is free, fast and simple, so please join our community today!

If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact us.
* Registered users of the site do not see these ads. 
Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 11-21-2017, 04:59 PM   #51
cramerox
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 447443
Join Date: May 2016
Chapter/Region: BAIC
Location: CALIPORNIA
Vehicle:
2011 WRX
SILVER

Default

The holding tank size would depend on how fast you would use the water up and how fast your RO filter can make you more water. The system is pointless if its too small and you dont have enough water.

I would filter RO water and run it through DI filter then into the holding tank. From the holding tank I would attached the sprayer pump.

A system can be as simple or complicated you want it to be. Shoot you can even make drinking water while you are at it. Dual purpose.

Ive linked some things to give you an idea.

http://a.co/i7SVEYk
* Registered users of the site do not see these ads.
cramerox is offline   Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
* Registered users of the site do not see these ads.
Old 11-28-2017, 05:16 PM   #52
PrimoSub
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 478409
Join Date: Nov 2017
Vehicle:
'10 ImpOutbackSport
Blue/Silver

Default DI Systems

This information great! I had no clue this was available to DIYers.
PrimoSub is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-19-2018, 04:34 PM   #53
pyrokidd89
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 424316
Join Date: Jun 2015
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: IN
Vehicle:
2016 WRX Limited
Pure Red

Default

so how do you figure out how much flow you can get out of the 10" or 20" filters? I have a pressure washer that flow just about 2 GPM and want to make sure the filter system I make can handle it.
pyrokidd89 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-30-2018, 12:40 PM   #54
whiplash willy
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 424843
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: Portland, Or
Vehicle:
2016 WRX Limited 6MT
ISM

Default

I had my first real issue with the DI system this weekend. My makeshift stand's cheap wood had rotted to the point, where it collapsed and broke the right hand side pvc output piece.



I ended up rebuilding the part, however, when I went to start using it again, I noticed my output TDS was high (50 TDS), and what was really weird is that it is higher then my input TDS, which reads around 30 TDS.

I am not sure why my output would be higher then my input, but my best guess is that either:

1. MY TDS Probe is damaged
2. My DI Media is exhausted (but why would that cause the water to be dirtier on the output)
3. I didn't let the PVC glue dry long enough before use (I let it dry about 18 hours)

As I started troubleshooting this, and thinking about it more, I started wondering how well my probe setup is working to accurately detect the water quality. I may have been using my system with depleted resin because the probe isn't reaching the water stream. The probe doesn't even stick out of the John Guest fitting, let aloe into the reducer bushing, and then into the T, where the water flows.

I think I am going to try a different setup for the probes, like what ColdSoda posted about earlier in this thread, which seems like a much better and simpiler design!

https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/sho...1&postcount=15

Here are some of his pics, in case anyone can't see them because of photobucket:





I still don't think that the probe will stick directly into the stream, but it will be much closer then the setup I have now. And maybe not having any PVC Glue will help.

I may also get a handheld TDS Meter so I can compare the readings between my inline probe, and the handheld meter.

Finally, I think I will also order new resin. I am sure it is time for a refill, and I don't think I have been packing my resin properly. So hopefully, after all of this, things will be good again! I will post my findings, along with pics of my new setup. I ended up rebuilding my stand with cedar and reinforcing it in certain areas I was having issues with, and now that is solid. I am glad I re-read through this thread and found ColdSoda's post about the fittings, it was a great post!

On a side note...my electric pressure washer also decided to take a dump over the weekend, so I ended up having to wash the car with un-pressurized city water! Hopefully that will be a quick fix as well!
whiplash willy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-01-2018, 06:56 AM   #55
Notch 8
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 355254
Join Date: May 2013
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: Columbus, Ohio
Default

Coldsoda needs to post some pictures of his new setup.
Notch 8 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-01-2018, 11:10 AM   #56
ColdSoda
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 200545
Join Date: Jan 2009
Chapter/Region: SWIC
Location: Phoenix, AZ
Vehicle:
2002 WRX
2008 SPEC B

Default

Thanks for the kind words Willy (and for the picture help...lol)

Here's a picture of the whole setup with the two 20" resin tanks:




I was running through resin like crazy with my input TDS of 650-710. The two 20" tanks only hold 0.33 cubic ft of resin combined and I was replacing it every 2 months. With CR Spotless changing their power user exchange program, I search for an alternative.

What I found was a monster 14" diameter mixed bed resin tank that holds 3.6 cubic ft of resin (and weighs 303 lbs). If I were to continue using about 40 gallons a month, instead of replacing every 2 months I could predict replacing after 20 months! Now with that said I have increased my usage of water because of this massive tank, so I'll probably replace the resin once a year or so (we'll see).

I don't have a picture exactly as the one above, but this will give you an idea:
ColdSoda is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-01-2018, 12:37 PM   #57
whiplash willy
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 424843
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: Portland, Or
Vehicle:
2016 WRX Limited 6MT
ISM

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by ColdSoda View Post
Thanks for the kind words Willy (and for the picture help...lol)

Here's a picture of the whole setup with the two 20" resin tanks:




I was running through resin like crazy with my input TDS of 650-710. The two 20" tanks only hold 0.33 cubic ft of resin combined and I was replacing it every 2 months. With CR Spotless changing their power user exchange program, I search for an alternative.

What I found was a monster 14" diameter mixed bed resin tank that holds 3.6 cubic ft of resin (and weighs 303 lbs). If I were to continue using about 40 gallons a month, instead of replacing every 2 months I could predict replacing after 20 months! Now with that said I have increased my usage of water because of this massive tank, so I'll probably replace the resin once a year or so (we'll see).

I don't have a picture exactly as the one above, but this will give you an idea:
ColdSoda, No problem! Your posts have been very helpful!

I would love to hear more details on that monster 14" tank! What kind of resin are you using, and how much does it cost to fill up that thing? It has gotta be crazy!

Also, what are your thoughts on the TDS Meter Probe positioning and accuracy. The TDS Meter probes typically come with a 1/4" Quick Connect Tee, that will actually put the probe tongs into the water stream. With our setup though, it seems like the 1/4" Quick Connect Probe isn't long enough to stick out further then the fitting to be placed in the water stream, which makes me wounder how accurate it is.
whiplash willy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-10-2018, 02:40 PM   #58
TheDonCT87
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 137177
Join Date: Jan 2007
Chapter/Region: Tri-State
Location: Bergen County, NJ
Vehicle:
2006 LegacyGT Stg2.5
White

Default

Awesome thread! Looking to build similar but have a few questions.

I called up the county water and asked about sediment and they said there is none. Lake water

Also looking at my Chlorine it is 1.44 at the highest.

Is it overkill to create a system with more filters such as a Sediment-> Carbon->DI

My TDS reading at my house is only 45-50

Any thoughts would be appreciated!
TheDonCT87 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-11-2018, 12:48 PM   #59
whiplash willy
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 424843
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: Portland, Or
Vehicle:
2016 WRX Limited 6MT
ISM

Default

I finally had some time to work on my filter setup, and address my issues. I ended up re-doing the output end, using some of the parts that ColdSoda used.

I was able to reduce some pieces, but still used the same fittings to connect to the filter cap, and for my hose connection. I used a John Guest 1/4 to 1/2 NPT like ColdSoda, for the probe, but the Tee I used had a 1/2 NPT threaded connection, so I could screw the John Guest fitting right into the Tee. I like the John Guest Fitting with the 1/2 end, because it creates a bigger opening for the water to come into, and hopefully will give a more accurate reading. I also positioned the probes sideways, which will hopefully give me a better reading.

Here are links to the parts, and some pics:

https://www.homedepot.com/p/John-Gue...3309/300753463

https://www.homedepot.com/p/DURA-3-4...-101/100344993





I did some testing by just running water through my system without the DI filter cartridges in there, to see what readings I was getting, to try and figure otu why I was getting 30TDS water in, and 50TDS out before. Without the Filter Cartridges, I was getting about 25TDS in, and 29TDS out, probably because the filter housings were dirty. I cleaned the housings out, and refilled my resin, and packed it well.

This time around I used CR Spotless's Refill Resin, because it was actually cheaper at $43, then what I was using before. Plus they use the MAG-MB resin, which is specifically for spotless rinsing. The bag was also for 7lbs of resin, instead of 5lbs. I was able to completely refill both Filter Cartridges and had a little left over!



https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

When I was refilling the Filter Cartridges, I noticed the old resin had been completely exhausted (It is color changing). I think that was most likely the cause of the higher Output TDS water I was having. With the new DI media in place, I am getting 0 TDS output water again!

Also, I was able to fix my Pressure Washer as well, all it needed was a $15 new GFCI plug, and it was good to go!
whiplash willy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-11-2018, 03:42 PM   #60
whiplash willy
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 424843
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: Portland, Or
Vehicle:
2016 WRX Limited 6MT
ISM

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by TheDonCT87 View Post
Awesome thread! Looking to build similar but have a few questions.

I called up the county water and asked about sediment and they said there is none. Lake water

Also looking at my Chlorine it is 1.44 at the highest.

Is it overkill to create a system with more filters such as a Sediment-> Carbon->DI

My TDS reading at my house is only 45-50

Any thoughts would be appreciated!
Anything you can do to reduce the TDS of the water going into the DI Filters will help extend the life of your DI Resin, which is somewhat expensive. The question is how much will a Sediment and Carbon filterer reduce your water's TDS. If you have the space, and don't mind spending a little more money up front, I don't see any reason not to add pre-filters.

CS Spotless's site has a cool page that will help you estimate how many gallons of 0TDS water you will use:

https://crspotless.com/how-many-washes/

If you are going to use two 10" x 4.5" filter housings like me, you will want to select DIC-10.

On a side note, I wouldn't think lake water would be sediment free. I wounder why/how that would be the case.
whiplash willy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-11-2018, 05:49 PM   #61
TheDonCT87
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 137177
Join Date: Jan 2007
Chapter/Region: Tri-State
Location: Bergen County, NJ
Vehicle:
2006 LegacyGT Stg2.5
White

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by whiplash willy View Post
Anything you can do to reduce the TDS of the water going into the DI Filters will help extend the life of your DI Resin, which is somewhat expensive. The question is how much will a Sediment and Carbon filterer reduce your water's TDS. If you have the space, and don't mind spending a little more money up front, I don't see any reason not to add pre-filters.

CS Spotless's site has a cool page that will help you estimate how many gallons of 0TDS water you will use:

https://crspotless.com/how-many-washes/

If you are going to use two 10" x 4.5" filter housings like me, you will want to select DIC-10.

On a side note, I wouldn't think lake water would be sediment free. I wounder why/how that would be the case.
I am getting diw 20 and 2 10x2.5 filters one for 1micron sediment and the other a carbon filter. I searched online and couldn't find anything about sediment in my area, but I agree with you, how can there not be any. The carbon from what Ive read should help eliminate other things to protect the DI resin. Also my county chlorine report is 1.44 which is low.
TheDonCT87 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-16-2018, 08:17 PM   #62
cramerox
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 447443
Join Date: May 2016
Chapter/Region: BAIC
Location: CALIPORNIA
Vehicle:
2011 WRX
SILVER

Default

A sediment filter is so cheap there's no reason to not run one.

Carbon will remove chlorine and or chloramine, which will make your DI resin last longer- which is the most expensive to replace.
cramerox is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-22-2018, 02:43 PM   #63
TheDonCT87
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 137177
Join Date: Jan 2007
Chapter/Region: Tri-State
Location: Bergen County, NJ
Vehicle:
2006 LegacyGT Stg2.5
White

Default

So I have my system set up
1micron Sediment>5micron Carbon> DI system

I ran 5 gal through the pre filters( first 2) got a ppm reading on 90 then went to 60ish. Ran to store, came back after an hour and wanted to check it again and ran another 5 gals through. The first gal was reading 360ppm then went down to 60ppm by the second-third gal. By the fifth it was around 57ppm.

I thought this was very strange, esp the first gallon of the second time running it. 10ppm higher isnt much but 300ppm higher will def have a negative effect on the system(longevity wise of DI resin)

Should I even bother keeping the prefilters? Do they just have to be flushed more?

Hose- 49ppm
pre filters- 60ppm
TheDonCT87 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump

All times are GMT -4. The time now is 03:22 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.7.0
Copyright ©2000 - 2018, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Powered by Searchlight © 2018 Axivo Inc.
Copyright ©1999 - 2017, North American Subaru Impreza Owners Club, Inc.