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07-05-2014, 06:00 AM | #51 | |
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Quote:
We are looking into this and yes it can be done quite easy so far as the block and sleave is concerned. The only real obstacle that is immediately apparent, is how to manage the extra length of cam belt required to accommodate a 4mm extension, it's going to require a belt at least 8mm longer and with all complication in the belt run, it's a bit tricky to calculate exactly the full effect of this on cam belt drive and adjustment. If Spiro embraces the idea, we might dummy one up and see how else we can get some slack in the belt We might move some pullies maybe or reduce size or other magic maybe? We'll see what the brains trust comes up with on this one later.
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07-05-2014, 11:58 AM | #52 |
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Join Date: Jul 2005
Chapter/Region:
MWSOC
Location: mn baby
Vehicle:04 sti white |
use adjustable idler pulleys? crawford makes them i think? has a off set hole that allows you to lengthen or shorten the belts path. not sure if you will get the 8mm you need but you will get some room.
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07-05-2014, 06:18 PM | #53 | ||
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Vehicle:03 JDM STI WRB |
Quote:
Quote:
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07-05-2014, 06:23 PM | #54 |
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Member#: 302293
Join Date: Nov 2011
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Yes we already considering these as a part of the magic . Well need to engineer the big gains but I think the off-set adjustable pullies will be good for the final adjustment.
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07-05-2014, 06:38 PM | #55 |
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07-06-2014, 01:07 PM | #56 |
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Wow that is nice man!
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07-16-2014, 05:28 AM | #57 |
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Progress Photos and Some of the CNC Renderings
Last edited by The Cowboy; 07-16-2014 at 06:54 AM. |
07-16-2014, 04:20 PM | #58 |
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Member#: 279103
Join Date: Apr 2011
Chapter/Region:
NESIC
Location: Southern NH
Vehicle:2002 WRX Hybrid |
very neat... sub'd
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07-16-2014, 06:18 PM | #59 | |
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TXIC
Location: Houston, Tx
Vehicle:2002 s256 twinscroll now with one more gear |
Quote:
Sent from my Nexus 5 using NASIOC mobile app |
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07-16-2014, 10:19 PM | #60 |
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TXIC
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Vehicle:2002 Bugeye Haltech GTX3584RS |
Any estimates on machine time required to cut this?
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07-17-2014, 02:37 AM | #61 |
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Vehicle:03 JDM STI WRB |
Wow lots of progress you guys aren't messing around!
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07-17-2014, 03:55 AM | #62 |
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07-17-2014, 12:24 PM | #63 |
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Join Date: Feb 2014
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This is awesome. Cant wait to see it in action. What kind of boost levels is this designed to handle?
Also the mains tend to warp over time with the OEM block. I'm guessing this will be much more resistant and not require line bore with every rebuild? |
07-17-2014, 12:34 PM | #64 |
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Location: Slidell, LA
Vehicle:2012 WRX SWP |
What other improvements to the design have yall made to the block? The raised deck height would be great for a better rod ratio.
What made you guys want to do this in the first place vs the stock block. Obviously the strength, but there had to be some pushing deciding factor to actually do it. Lastly, are you going to get an exact weight difference compared to a stock cast block? Excited to see where this goes. |
07-17-2014, 02:31 PM | #65 |
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Location: Southern NH
Vehicle:2002 WRX Hybrid |
This block makes me wonder why I even bother building my ej25 block... Imagine if you could make this so cost efficient, which i understand is probably impossible, that in a few years everyone was running these!?! Id like to know estimated boost capabilities as well.
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07-17-2014, 03:34 PM | #66 |
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SCIC
Location: San Diego, CA
Vehicle:2004 WRB WIDE STI COBB/TIC/CUSCO/DSS/TSSFAB |
Sure... I'll be the guy to ask the dumb questions:
-Applicability to a car that sees street duty? -Surface finishes available to reduce the possiblity of corrosion? Peace -TurboTod |
07-17-2014, 08:19 PM | #67 | |
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Quote:
The only modification you will need to make to your street car is to install external electric water pump, and the relevant hosing mods to plumb it up. We are making blocks such that they can run the STD OEM oil pump and sump. One of our demo cars is a street car, so it will be proven in both street car and race car spec before we go retail. As for coatings we can make it any colour you like with various levels of finish protection thanks to our friends at Hi-Octane Performance Coatings That service will be extra charge of course but easily do-able. |
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07-17-2014, 08:28 PM | #68 | |
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Quote:
But what most customers really want, is the ability to make 800-900hp at the fly with a substantially increased reliability factor that just can't be obtained from the OEM block, no matter what band-aids you put on it. |
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07-17-2014, 09:34 PM | #69 | |
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Quote:
Target 50psi. Components are individually chosen that are capable of 60psi but we'd like to see some conservatism in our projections, so I think 45-50psi will work well for most people. |
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07-17-2014, 09:39 PM | #70 | |
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Quote:
yes yes, look here, your mains won't be going anywhere. That's what I mean by full span main cradles. It's also pinned and more main case bolts. Have a look at how the OEM main cradles swing in the breeze and then you'll understand why there is movement and nasty irregular wear on your main bearings. That won't be happening here. |
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07-20-2014, 06:32 AM | #71 |
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How did you manage to get the coolant around the bores.
Did weld a plate in the side, after machining the chambers around the bores, and re-machine it, otherwise you can't get alot of coolant around the bores. |
07-20-2014, 01:34 PM | #72 |
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what are you doing for heads?...hope you have some billet ones
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07-20-2014, 09:38 PM | #73 |
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07-21-2014, 12:04 AM | #74 |
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Nice work! Do you know the weight penalty with the billet block? What will you use as a rev limit with that 83mm crank?
With respect to cost, I think a fully built version with dry sump will come in under $25K complete. This is a good price for a lightweight race engine with 1000 hp capability. Can anybody think of a cheaper package at this ballpark weight and hp? |
07-21-2014, 04:11 AM | #75 |
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Can't give it all away but yes we have water around the sleaves ..
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