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Old 06-13-2019, 09:19 PM   #26
BRSUWRX
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cougar4 View Post
I suspect the vacuum line was used to run the air vents.
that's a new one
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Old 08-08-2019, 10:55 PM   #27
cianuro
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Mine started doing this a couple months after replacing the clutch:
https://youtu.be/5DmbC6-mlAs

The car runs fine, no idle issues and no electronics are going off or crazy. Hereís my original thread if youíd like more info: https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2857013

I havenít been able to solve this issue yet and it started in 2017. Any updates on your side of things?
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Old 11-19-2019, 08:44 PM   #28
bach415
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Hi, my friend and I are trying to diagnose the same type of problem. He just bought the car from a private sale and issues started happening the day after. His car essentially will start up sometimes, then dies after about 2 minutes (cold start), temp gauge pegs to hot, tachometer pegs to 8k, and relays from passenger side are constantly clicking. Once it dies, it refuses to start back up for a while and persist w/ the pegging and clicking even after you turn off the vehicle, remove the key, and attempt to start it up again.

I read that it maybe a ground problem but everywhere I searched, I can only seem to find three-four common ground locations (starter, intake manifold, near vcd module, and the two from the engine to the bottom of the chassis). We have fixed the starter ground location (was not in the right place) What are the other grounding points I should look for (possible diagram or picture location will help a lot).

Also if grounding is not the issue, what can be possibly the problem causing it?
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Old 11-20-2019, 12:14 PM   #29
cianuro
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Originally Posted by bach415 View Post
Hi, my friend and I are trying to diagnose the same type of problem. He just bought the car from a private sale and issues started happening the day after. His car essentially will start up sometimes, then dies after about 2 minutes (cold start), temp gauge pegs to hot, tachometer pegs to 8k, and relays from passenger side are constantly clicking. Once it dies, it refuses to start back up for a while and persist w/ the pegging and clicking even after you turn off the vehicle, remove the key, and attempt to start it up again.

I read that it maybe a ground problem but everywhere I searched, I can only seem to find three-four common ground locations (starter, intake manifold, near vcd module, and the two from the engine to the bottom of the chassis). We have fixed the starter ground location (was not in the right place) What are the other grounding points I should look for (possible diagram or picture location will help a lot).

Also if grounding is not the issue, what can be possibly the problem causing it?


Whatís odd in your case is the tach pegging to 8K. None of the issues mentioned here show that symptom. In your case Iíd check for loose grounds under the dash apart from the engine bay. Iíd also recommend getting a scanner that can read the other systems: ABS, VDC, BIU, etc. The codes you get with those systems are not P codes, so thatíll give you more info as to what system could be causing the issue. In the factory service manual thereís a list for each systemís codes and how to diagnose them.

In my case, I got the combination of 2 codes, U1221 and C0047. First one for CAN communication and second for ABS system. The FSM states that a combo of those codes together means the possibility of a faulty ECU, which I will be replacing during the next few weeks. Now, this is my case, so yours could be different, which is why Iím recommending a different scanner.

There are many shops that carry the Snap-On scanner, which can do this, but you can also get one that does the same from ebay. Mineís an iCarsoft HNMII. It wasnít until I got this that I could identify my issue as no P codes were ever triggered, so a regular scanner, nor the Accessport would tell me anything.

Another thing, since the car was bought used, you might wanna check what mods, if any, were done to the car. In terms of mods, Iím not only saying engine related, so check radio, gauges and any other thing that could relate to wiring.
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Old 11-22-2019, 08:00 AM   #30
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A faulty ground shouldn't cause relays to be clicking, even with the ignition OFF. I would guess it is the Main Relay you are hearing as it should be in the passenger side kick panel area. The relay is controlled through the ECU. Hopefully the wiring hasn't been modified by someone in the past.

Make sure that the engine TEST connectors aren't connected together.
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Old 11-22-2019, 12:04 PM   #31
cianuro
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If you remove the main relay and put the ignition to ON, itíll create the condition of the temp gauge pegged to hot, no crank or start, and VDC/ABS lights on. That relay has constant 12v from the battery, even with the car off. Once you turn the key to ON, pin #23 from 3rd ecu plug (left to right) triggers that relay and outputs 1V. If it is the main relay, pin #23 will show 12V with the ignition key ON.

That relay controls fuel pump and ignition coils. If voltage is tested and performs as it should, then he would need to check elsewhere. One of the guys here commented about finding a loose ground in the engine bay, which when jumped to ground, got everything working again. Then again, this thread mentions nothing of tach pegged at 8K, so his problem has to be something else.

When my ac was worked on, they left that relay block hanging from its wires, so I took out the dash completely to inspect a couple other grounds mentioned in the FSM that relate to the ecu, said relays and other systems like ABS and VDC. As far as I could access, I found no loose grounds, but seeing as the issues started the day after he got the car, might be worth a shot.

Still, I do recommend again the scanner I mentioned, or a similar one. Different combo of codes means different causes for symptoms.
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Old 11-22-2019, 03:08 PM   #32
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Lets verify the grounding to the combination meter since it seems to indicate there is a problem with that by the action of the gauges. My data shows that pin C8 of connector i12 (green 14 pin connector going to the CM) supplies ground, passing through a couple of other connectors, and ties to ground via ground lug G1, which should be behind the AC compressor, near the top of the engine. Check the resistance of pin C8 using the negative battery post as your reference point for the test. You should have less than a few ohms of resistance if the connection to ground is good.

That same ground also ties to the ECU on pin A22(connector B134) and pin C17(connector B136) so you should verify those pins also. The wire color is blk/wht for both of the pins. Another quick way to check the ground is to connect a temporary jumper to one of suspect pins (with things normally connected up) and tie the other end of the jumper to a known good ground point.

Last edited by Cougar4; 11-22-2019 at 03:45 PM.
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Old 11-24-2019, 05:20 AM   #33
cianuro
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Something like this was mentioned earlier, but I believe that if it was a problem with the combination meter, car would still run. The meter receives data from the ecu, not the other way around. They would probably have wrong readings or weird behavior from the needles, but this wouldnít prevent the car from running.

From the FSM and some google searching, I found that the meter has a method of showing you when something is wrong by the position of the needles. For example, Temp gauge pegged to Hot with ABS, VDC and Hill Assist lights On means that the ecu went to ďfailsafe modeĒ to prevent damage to the engine. Thereís a service bulletin with this symptom and a diagnostic procedure, which I found by google searching the codes U1221 (which is the same as B0221) and C0047 together. This issue has been going on since 2005 models and they still havenít figured it out. After all diagnostics were performed, last flow diagram point says ďtemporary unstable communication phenomenaĒ, so just reset the codes.

He would need to check if there are any wires tapped to the ecu wiring, but until he gets the other systems scanned as mentioned before, testing stuff wonít do much.

Iíve been dealing with this issue for over 2 years now, and everything Iíve tested and replaced hasnít done a thing, which is why Iím replacing the ecu.
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Old 12-02-2019, 04:46 AM   #34
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Thanks for all the information guys! Late response due to holiday break and us going out to have fun instead. Found the three issues (two of em ended up fixing the idle and driveability of the car, details below). Also, after that day I made the post and checking out the car during the day, we noticed that the engine may have been replaced at one point prior to my friend purchasing the car and might explain why certain things are in proper places/missing.

1st issue was that the VCD ground wire (passenger side engine bay) was not properly grounding. It was suggested to try extending the different grounds to see if it temporary fixes the start up issues and turns out it was the VCD ground wire (unable to fit it with the ohmmeter due to size of the tester tips). Hooked up a 10 awg from the vcd ground (after testing others) to the battery and the car started and was idling fine consistently but once it started driving, short time later issue came back with it bogging and dying. I think he fixed the issue by cleaning up the grounding wire as well as the chassis to where it grounded.

2nd issue was the main harness (08-14 wrx/sti known for that bad ground in the main harness right before the plug that goes into the firewall). We decided to solder the hell of out those ground wires there just to see what happens and it ended up fixing the random bogging/stalls. Went for a 30 minute test drive and the issue has not came back yet. We will do a longer test when we have the time and the weather is not bad (raining like crazy at the moment and bad alignment due to switching back to oem coils).

3rd issue is that we are experiencing c0047, c0054, and c0057 (did not have any other codes nor the U1221 mentioned prior). Had a friend at subaru to try to clear the codes with ssm but it still comes back/does not erase. So far it has not affected driveability (based on our 30 min drive). Might just be abs sensors being dirty/bad based off of what we read before (and it's possible that it may have been damage due to the different panels of damage the car has).

Last edited by bach415; 12-02-2019 at 04:52 AM.
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Old 12-02-2019, 09:57 AM   #35
cianuro
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Can you show me the main harness ground you mention? Iíve messed around with plenty of grounds, polishing and reseating them, so it doesnít come to mind. Iíd like to have another look.

As for the VDC, I believe all 3 C codes you have are CAN comm errors, and theyíll stay on until you fix the connection thatís actually causing the issue. Meaning, there could be another loose ground/connection you mightíve missed.

As for the U code not showing in your case, it probably means your ecu is not the problem. The FSM states that having C0047 and U1221 together, without any other codes, means a faulty ecu, which is my case.

The way to test abs sensors is to get a scanner like I mentioned before that can read them live and see if the speed output from all sensors is the same.
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Old 12-02-2019, 03:17 PM   #36
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The error code C0054 refers to the BLS or brake light system. Here is a link that may help you fix the issue.

https://subaru.oemdtc.com/334/revise...08-2016-subaru

Last edited by Cougar4; 12-08-2019 at 06:44 PM.
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Old 12-05-2019, 02:23 PM   #37
bach415
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@Cianuro it wouldn't let me quote your post without having issues

For the main harness ground, it was related to this topic:https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/sho....php?t=2550077 or https://www.wrxforums.com/forums/10-...range-fix.html. Both the same topic but the 2nd link has a clearer picture of the issue. It was a misfiring issue for the OP there but also for some reason fixed our idle/driving/bogging/dying issue.

It could still be the VCD ground that is having issues. All the other grounds in the engine bay looks good so far. We will attempt a grounding mod for it and see if it fixes the problem.

@Cougar4 thanks for the link. My buddy and I will attempt it possibly tomorrow and see if our other friend can reset via SSM and see if it goes away.
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