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Old 07-06-2013, 03:29 PM   #76
loofer
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 342743
Join Date: Jan 2013
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: Michigan
Vehicle:
2002 WRX
Silver

Default

So I have close to 1500 miles on the Super Dooper Roo, so almost broken in. Yesterday while I was driving all of a sudden my radio (playing off my sd card) got fuzzy. I pulled it out and put it back in and thought that worked, but then the radio shut off completely along with my cluster gauge. The car would not allow me any boost and went into limp mode.

I got to where I need to go and let it sit for the night. It wouldn't start in the morning. The security light would flash. When I put the key in and turned it sometimes I would get no crank, other times it would crank over, but no start. I pulled the steering colmun cover off to check the ignition cylinder and I did notice a slight play on the back of the ignition cylinder where 4 wires go into the back of it. I moved that around and I would get the subie to turn over more often, but still no start.

I jumped the car and it did start up.

I need some advice on the problem here. I think it might be the ignition switch and I'll have to replace the clyinder, but I'm not sure how to test that.

Your input would be great!
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Old 10-15-2013, 12:34 PM   #77
gianttcr
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 108790
Join Date: Feb 2006
Chapter/Region: SCIC
Location: San Diego, but Im over it
Vehicle:
2002 WRX 2.2 Wagon
PSM

Default

Hey man,
Did you get this last bit sorted? If not, sounds like a classic bad alternator. As these cars begin to age, I've found that the reference wires off the alternator (green plug) have a tendency to rust up or break, causing a bad connection and blowing the regulator. The gauges going nuts and weird gremlins are a classic symptom. Great build! Mine is similar but some poor advice during the first build (was told to put 2nd ring on upside down) has caused mine to be out for issues 4X since Feb. Still LOVE it when it runs though!
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Old 02-02-2016, 10:43 PM   #78
Gary Beavers
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Member#: 355279
Join Date: May 2013
Default

Thread back from the dead... How long did this build survive? I found your video on YouTube, read this build thread and its very close to what I want. Just interested in how she held up?
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Old 02-02-2016, 10:53 PM   #79
loofer
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 342743
Join Date: Jan 2013
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: Michigan
Vehicle:
2002 WRX
Silver

Default

Yo Gary! The build is going 12,000 miles strong! I am a fan of the 2.1 after driving it for a while! A slight more responsive on the low end and still a nice high rev, just wish I slapped bigger cams in it and put new valves and guides in. The valve tick and piston chatter has dissipated since being broken in and purrs nicely now. I have been using Brad Penn 10w30 its whole life. Just before Christmas I broke 2nd gear and ended up throwing in a JDM V7 6spd with the 3.9 LSD diff. This JDM trans has shorter gears than the Usdm one, and MAN it makes this 2.1 stroker rev even quicker! It's a riot! Not sure what pistons you are thinking but I went with the Mahle 4032 forge, which, from my research should last a long while compared to other types of forged pistons. If you have any questions I'll be here!
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Old 02-03-2016, 09:35 PM   #80
dirtydevious
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Member#: 439657
Join Date: Feb 2016
Default WRX 1999, Timing belt being chewed / Running Out

Hi Everyone!

So I have a weird critical problem, after a fresh rebuild, (bottom end assembled by machine shop heads reconditioned by same machine shop). The timing belt is wanting to run forward and rub on the back of the balancer and chew out the edge of the timing belt. This would indicate an idler pulley running out or a camshaft gear, tensioner, etc. Which I have checked and replaced all except for tensioner bracket (the piece that gets bolted to the block with three bolts and then the tensioner bolted to it)

This is not a problem with timing belt guide plate or incorrect fitment clearance of the timing belt guide plate! I am 100% certain of this.

I've checked the pulleys, camshaft gears/sprockets are all straight and in line by using straight edges and even removed all camshaft gears and refitted.

All parts are genuine subaru including head gaskets, etc.

The motor was rebuilt because of the lower toothed pulley failure (see two photos in below link). Since the rebuild the belt does not sit on the cam gears properly.

My only suspicion is that the cam gears are out of alignment because of incorrect machining of the head surfaces or some other problem that I haven't thought of. If anyone could shed some light it would be great.

i'm just about to go and get a new tensioner bracket just in case that's been bent from the timing belt failure before rebuild) even though it doesn't look like it, all the bolt holes that the pulleys bolt onto are in good condition and show no signs of warping the surface have the original factory machine markings.

I am really at my wits end about this, the machine shop has had the car and can't suggest any ideas except for spacing the crank sprocket forward by using washers behind it so that the belt does not creep forward and touch the back of the balancer (not a solution in my opinion and is just a patch up for a bigger problem)

Photo's here (the photos of the timing belt are with the motor having been rotated about 10 times and that is the natural position that the belt wants to sit in which should be about 4-5mm closer to the block allowing clearance from what I've been told):
https://drive.google.com/folderview?...kk&usp=sharing
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