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Old 06-12-2018, 03:30 PM   #51
flyboy1100
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Great pictures, very clean inside! You were running 10K OCIs right?
12-13k, no extra bypass filters, Fram XG3593a
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Old 06-12-2018, 03:34 PM   #52
flyboy1100
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this a great video. my reverse grinding has always bothered me, and it has gotten much worse in the last 18mo or so, hopefully my new clutch setup helps it.




unfortunately not going to get anything done on subaru tonight, maybe oil pan but only maybe. Need to try and replace an ignition switch on my truck since it decided to stop working this morning :/ sure glad I am fortunate enough to have spare vehicles

Last edited by flyboy1100; 06-12-2018 at 03:44 PM.
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Old 06-12-2018, 09:11 PM   #53
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Great work, subscribed to this thread.
Do you plan on tearing down to the piston to examine the piston rings? Oil control rings? It will be interesting to see if it is ring wear or stuck rings.
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Old 06-12-2018, 11:32 PM   #54
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Great work, subscribed to this thread.
Do you plan on tearing down to the piston to examine the piston rings? Oil control rings? It will be interesting to see if it is ring wear or stuck rings.


Yes after the replacement engine is back in the car i will be tearing it down. Sometime in July due to work schedule. I believe it is Cylinder #4 causing my issues
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Old 06-12-2018, 11:37 PM   #55
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Well this was today, old oil pan back on, i dont like the paint i touched up on my newer pan. maybe i can get it powder coated....then have a spare



Oh, and both of these rings that clip onto the oil level sensor are broken only way i can see to get a new one is to order a whole new sensor. Not sure of an adhesive i can use. Its sole purpose is to hold the o ring in place from what i can tell. Not sure what the material is.

There are 3 tabs, 2 of the 3 are broken on both of my sensors, i was cautious on removal too and they still broke.



Edit: just rtv'd it on, may regret that if the switch fails

Last edited by flyboy1100; 06-13-2018 at 12:43 AM.
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Old 06-14-2018, 12:54 AM   #56
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Old engine bolted back together , minus the oil pan and sitting on a palette in the corner now.... I followed the procedure for putting the chains back on, everything lined up properly with colored links and marks, tried to rotate engine and something is off. Probably find out when i tear it down and hopefully I don't mess up the newer engine. I am really confused by this, it is almost foolproof unless there is a typo about which way to rotate before reassembling

Newer engine has RH side (passenger) completely resealed minus head gasket just needs plugs but that is after compression testing.

Front seal replaced.

Got my TSK1 throwout bearing kit today and installed as well as pilot bearing and pins in flywheel. I set the clutch up next to old clutch, looks like everything matches up but new setup when not bolted together sits higher than old, maybe it will release a bit more?

Anyway, pics

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Old 06-14-2018, 12:57 AM   #57
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Old 06-14-2018, 02:40 AM   #58
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Now I see what that wire on the TOB is. Mine was mangled beyond recognition so it's missing on my car now.

Got a link for that snout sleeve?

Could the chains be mixed up? I don't know if they're different.

Last edited by Commander Keen; 06-14-2018 at 03:23 AM.
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Old 06-14-2018, 08:13 AM   #59
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Originally Posted by Commander Keen View Post
Now I see what that wire on the TOB is. Mine was mangled beyond recognition so it's missing on my car now.

Got a link for that snout sleeve?

Could the chains be mixed up? I don't know if they're different.

http://sixstarbernie.com/i-23179109-...Tsk1%26go%3DGo

Showed up 2 days after I ordered it.

Which wire? The 2 clips on the sides? The retainer wire in the TSK1 is different but it still seems to work im tempted to put in a new fork too, undecided.

Also the tsk1 bearing is a bit more stout, hopefully it holds up. apparently there is a Koyo replacement out there for it as it really was just a stock TOB on toyotas in the 90's i think??

I kept everything separate, 2 pink links go on the cam sprockets and the blue on the crank sprocket, all alignment marks were correct, so I don't understand the bind, I didn't force it just put it away and will pull covers off too look. I have a feeling the LH(drivers side) is off 1 link/toot, will find out

Last edited by flyboy1100; 06-14-2018 at 08:18 AM.
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Old 06-14-2018, 06:37 PM   #60
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Right, the 2 clips. My new TOB didn't come with any.

Are there an equal number of links between each pink and the blue?
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Old 06-14-2018, 06:51 PM   #61
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I figured out what i did to the old engine cam timing, i needed to rotate the crank an additional 360 degrees even though the book says 200 degrees, pretty much the cams on that side are 180 off..... newer engine turned out good. Lots of pics coming to include some cam scoring im not happy about
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Old 06-14-2018, 07:41 PM   #62
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LH before



LH during for now i just put this back together as you can feel it but not really catch it. I will see how my other cams look on my old engine and i might end up swapping a cam or the whole carrier, or just leave it.....







My cam alignment tool, will drill another hole and use it as a pulley holder for water pump and crank pulley



LH timing




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Old 06-14-2018, 07:49 PM   #63
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RH timing






All done, just waiting for rtv to finish setting before installing front cover, will get that on tonight when i get home





New preheater hose, pcv hose isn't too hard so just going to leave that one alone





To do still:
1. Check other cams on old engine, kinda regret not doing that before the work on this engine. Cleaning the rtv is the hardest part, the rest is actually very quick and easy

2. Flywheel , rear main seal

3. Compression and oil pressure testing

4. Heater hoses

5. Reconnect whatever is unconnected

6. Install clutch and new clutch fork i picked up today

7. Drop engine in

8. Possibly swap new ac pulley and clutch over from newer compressor, or just swap entire compressor

9. Drive it like I stole it
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Old 06-15-2018, 01:11 AM   #64
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Wow the front cover sucks to put back on. just a few more things to do. Also found that the junk yard broke both my o2 sensor connectors where they clip onto the bracket, hopefully they come apart easily so i can change them, other it will be splice or just use my old harness :/

Oh, and the cam with some scoring is worse on my old engine, so leaving that alone, i wonder if that cam just has oiling issues as the exhaust cam looks ok on both engines

Hopefully Saturday it will be in its new home







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Old 06-15-2018, 07:19 PM   #65
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Can aluminum score cams like that?

I wonder if it's contaminants embedded in the journals.

Maybe the 0W40 will help. The things are only turning ~320 RPM at idle.
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Old 06-15-2018, 08:09 PM   #66
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Can aluminum score cams like that?



I wonder if it's contaminants embedded in the journals.



Maybe the 0W40 will help. The things are only turning ~320 RPM at idle.


I wouldn't think aluminum would score hardened iron. could be the contaminants or the cam itself chewing up the aluminum and that in turn scoring the cam. It interesting that w/o checking the other side yet that the only cam with significant damage is the LH Intake on both engines, cams are interchangeable between '12 & '13 so i wonder if '14 had some oiling changes

I think since the journals are large enough to support 0w40 it should help the wear
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Old 06-16-2018, 02:08 AM   #67
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All hoses replaced

Rear seal replaced

Flywheel installed

Crank bolt tightened

Fill with oil and new filter

Oil pressure gauge installed

Starter installed

Exhaust installed

O2 sensor plugs swapped

Pretty much ready to go for compression testing and then clutch install and drop in car. EXCEPT i failed to realize there is an additional thermostat and water outlet in the coolant pipe on top of the engine. So maybe i can find a soft plug otherwise i need more gaskets/ orings to swap my old stuff over......ARGH!!!!!

I doubt i can get them tomorrow so now looking like 2 weeks before I finish this. Maybe still drop it in and just swap those parts when i get back

Also i need to wash all the oil off this one because i am still finding seeping which i am hoping is just from where i dripped/ didn't fully clean all the oil out and it just happens to be dripping to my new rtv. Time will tell i guess





5mt engine has soft plug here


CVT engine is drilled out fully, need to measure these to compare

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Old 06-16-2018, 08:56 AM   #68
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25.1mm on 5mt

29.8 on CVT

i think i will just be swapping them

Edit: picking up a 30mm freeze plug if that cant be made to work then i will be swapping them

Last edited by flyboy1100; 06-16-2018 at 10:56 AM.
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Old 06-16-2018, 01:43 PM   #69
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Success, maybe



And just because im paranoid, aviation gasket maker, chopped up thermostat and housing back in place i might even force a bolt into the outlet....


Last edited by flyboy1100; 06-16-2018 at 02:07 PM.
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Old 06-16-2018, 06:52 PM   #70
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So the CVT port is bored out further than the 5MT's?

Could it be a year to year change?
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Old 06-16-2018, 10:22 PM   #71
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Originally Posted by Commander Keen View Post
So the CVT port is bored out further than the 5MT's?

Could it be a year to year change?


Not sure, didn't check part numbers of the thermostat to see if it changed. Iwould be willing to be it is cast with the 25mm hole and then depending on 5mt or CVT application it is further machined to accommodate the thermostat and housing bolts. It is the one of the only soft plugs i can find on this engine in addition to 1 on the back of each head


I do have oil flow, i do have compression but all over the place on the stone cold engine. So i guess after i can take it for a test drive tomorrow i will pull plugs snd retest with hopefully better results, otherwise one of my 2 engines is getting new rings :/

Time to put clutch on and maybe drop it in!!! Such a busy day do other things

Last edited by flyboy1100; 06-16-2018 at 11:53 PM.
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Old 06-16-2018, 11:51 PM   #72
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Clutch installed

Plugs and coils installed, tomorrow will be dropping it in!

Dont crank engine with filter loose, oil pump works well....

To do:

Install, duh

Install Accessories and belt

Replace heater hoses

Swap new clutch fork

Fill with coolant

Rinse off my oil mess

Drive it like it's hot
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Old 06-17-2018, 05:39 PM   #73
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Such a pain to get everything lined all back up!

Still need do accessories, radiator hoses, radiator, battery, airbox, I think that is it.

My exhaust doesn't fit as well on this engine so I put it on first which made bolting it back up to the rest of the system a royal pain.

Swapped the battery cables for the newer ones that my new engine came with.

Got all heater hoses hooked up, the manual doesn't describe which is which is which so luckily i had the 2012 changes manual so i could find the coolant flow chart.

All group N mounts fit as expected with no issues



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Old 06-17-2018, 11:58 PM   #74
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New engine runs, computer didn't like it at first, all kinds of codes, but after I cleared them it idled fine for 15 minutes while doing coolant, then took it for a 10 mile test drive.

New clutch feels great, a touch heavier, but not much. Revs quickly, doesn't take much more rom start. Shifts are quick, near redline is way quicker....... downshifts are much easier ( I usually double clutch all down shifts) WHY DIDNT THIS CAR COME WITH THE 12 POUND FLYWHEEL FROM THE FACTORY?????????

I did notice if quickly shifting to reverse the bind/grind is still there, i plan to change fluid and bleed everything when i do brakes in 2 weeks after my work trip

between new flywheel and group N mounts, it sounds different during start and idle. car sounds much more Subaru like....nice rumble, a touch of vibration when AC kicks on otherwise its smooth.

When driving no extra vibration unless you bog it, not even much clutch chatter that i noticed unless bogged.... sounds more Subaru like, ie sounds like my friends ej20 wrx minus the turbo, but the rumble is louder now due to all the group N. seriously everyone should just do group N on this car.

Overall Im happy, need to clean my oil mess a bit more, and will plan on a compression test after i get a few hundred miles on it.

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Old 06-18-2018, 01:13 AM   #75
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You wrapped that up in a hurry, great work!

The flywheel really is a win. No drawbacks that I can think of for a decently skilled driver.

Do you notice any less rev hang, or did your tune clean most of that up?
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