The NASIOC Oil Selection Guide

[bluesubie]

Originally Posted by Tyjamo87

Newb Q

Today's Rotella T6 is STILL the correct specification for an '07 WRX??

Still ONE of the forums favorites? Or, at least a known adequate option?

Thanks all!

RT6 5W-40 no longer carries the API gasoline spec, however there are people that still use it. Rotella T6 5W-30 is a high HTHS 5W-30 that does carry both diesel and gasoline specs.

However, there are several xW-40’s that meet the most stringent oil specs in the world (Porsche, MB, VW) and can be bought for $25-$35 for 5 qts from Amazon or Wal-Mart.

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[bluesubie]

Originally Posted by jakesubie

Wow, this is a ton of great information.

I've been using Mobil 1. If I'm understanding, since the Mobil 1 Extended Performance has a slightly lower HT/HS than regular Mobil 1, it's technically worse? I'd never go 10k miles let alone 15k without changing the oil...

With the move to SP/GF6 Mobil 1 has dropped the HTHS from most of their data sheets, so the exact HTHS is unknown.

The EP line does have higher levels of PAO base stocks, but you need to look at specs to get an idea of HTHS. GF6 = <3.5 and ACEA A3 or C3 = 3.5+.

[Savage388]

Originally Posted by bluesubie

RT6 5W-40 no longer carries the API gasoline spec, however there are people that still use it. Rotella T6 5W-30 is a high HTHS 5W-30 that does carry both diesel and gasoline specs.



However, there are several xW-40’s that meet the most stringent oil specs in the world (Porsche, MB, VW) and can be bought for $25-$35 for 5 qts from Amazon or Wal-Mart.

I can't say enough good things about mobile 1 0w-40 euro I think your eluding to after 2 years running it summer and winter. It's still good stuff even after they changed it and added the fs label. Less than a quart per 3k change and it meets the Porsche a40 spec still.

[bluesubie]

Originally Posted by Savage388

I can't say enough good things about mobile 1 0w-40 euro I think your eluding to after 2 years running it summer and winter. It's still good stuff even after they changed it and added the fs label. Less than a quart per 3k change and it meets the Porsche a40 spec still.

Yeah, that’s one and Castrol Edge 0W-40 is another.

[Savage388]

Originally Posted by bluesubie

Yeah, that’s one and Castrol Edge 0W-40 is another.

Does castrol publish hths on their oils? I don't remember reading anything on the 0w-40 in my original oil search just the german castrol 0w-30. I'd be curious to see what grade synthetic it is as well.

[bluesubie]

Originally Posted by Savage388

Does castrol publish hths on their oils? I don't remember reading anything on the 0w-40 in my original oil search just the german castrol 0w-30. I'd be curious to see what grade synthetic it is as well.

Yes on the 0W-30 (3.5), no on the 0W-40 .

[Savage388]

Originally Posted by bluesubie

Yes on the 0W-30 (3.5), no on the 0W-40 .

Thanks for the link. Interesting what they left out, I see it's still Porsche a40 approved so I can't imagine the hths is something they wouldn't want to show. I'm not a chemical engineer by any means but the density and viscosity at 100c of the 0w-40 look very similar to the german castrol.

[pazzoduc]

Any reason to not use CK-4 oils for our older EJ engines? The necessary additives in FA-4 oils to get a little more fuel mileage isn't likely going to be a benefit, no?


Living in a high temperate location seems like the higher viscosity CK-4 oils would be a better choice for me than the FA-4 oils particularly when used in a high output modified engine?


EJ25 +/-450 HP, oil cooler, AOS, TMIC, Mishi XL radiator, E85 flex. Summer temps regularly 100f, Winter temps rarely below 40 cold start.
Have not had bearing clearance conversation with machine shop yet, so have not put that variable into the discussion yet.

[bluesubie]

Originally Posted by pazzoduc

Any reason to not use CK-4 oils for our older EJ engines? The necessary additives in FA-4 oils to get a little more fuel mileage isn't likely going to be a benefit, no?


Living in a high temperate location seems like the higher viscosity CK-4 oils would be a better choice for me than the FA-4 oils particularly when used in a high output modified engine?


EJ25 +/-450 HP, oil cooler, AOS, TMIC, Mishi XL radiator, E85 flex. Summer temps regularly 100f, Winter temps rarely below 40 cold start.
Have not had bearing clearance conversation with machine shop yet, so have not put that variable into the discussion yet.

CK-4 oils are fine to run in an EJ.

[Atulier]

even after reading all this, I still dont understand why my car is consuming so much oil. I once had to change it at 970 miles on the oil, and just yesterday i changed it at 1150 miles on the oil. Why did i change it so soon? When i check my dip stick its dry and black. I checked the intake to see if there was oil going in there but there isnt. I use "Motul 8100 X-cess gen2 5W-40. What can be going on in there thats sucking so much oil?

[bluesubie]

Originally Posted by Atulier

even after reading all this, I still dont understand why my car is consuming so much oil. I once had to change it at 970 miles on the oil, and just yesterday i changed it at 1150 miles on the oil. Why did i change it so soon? When i check my dip stick its dry and black. I checked the intake to see if there was oil going in there but there isnt. I use "Motul 8100 X-cess gen2 5W-40. What can be going on in there thats sucking so much oil?

That doesn't necessarily sound like an oil problem but possibly an engine problem. What car is this? How many miles? Why are you changing your oil so much? If your dipstick is dry it only means that you're down one quart (or possibly more). There's no need to change your oil if it's just being consumed. Just add more oil. Has the PCV been changed? A compression and leakdown test is a good way to identify serious problems.

Oil being black isn't necessarily a problem. It could just mean that the oil is doing its job and holding contaminants in suspension.

[Atulier]

Originally Posted by bluesubie

That doesn't necessarily sound like an oil problem but possibly an engine problem. What car is this? How many miles? Why are you changing your oil so much? If your dipstick is dry it only means that you're down one quart (or possibly more). There's no need to change your oil if it's just being consumed. Just add more oil. Has the PCV been changed? A compression and leakdown test is a good way to identify serious problems.

Oil being black isn't necessarily a problem. It could just mean that the oil is doing its job and holding contaminants in suspension.

so its a '18 sti, about 46k miles on it. PCV has not been changed. i had a compression test about in sept 2020 everything seemed fine..I change oil because when i pull dipstick its dry.

[Jedi03]

These cars have rings that stick...I combat it with combination of seafoam through brakebooster hose an atf in the fuel...I have had great luck with motorcraft an have just hopped on board the amsoil train, had great results from customer cars so going to try it myself! First sti did mobile 1 an was sucking a quart between changes on brand new engine...current sti consumes no oil an doin 5k oci did 2 uoa an had great comments from blackstone, 170k miles currently an no rebuild! https://www.amsoil.com/offers/pc/?zo=30227871

[RjDeeble]

I ran ran amsoil in my 2005 rs for the first 80,000 miles. I switched to Mobile synthetic 5w30 and it seemed like it wasn’t even close to amsoil. Anyone else notice anything like this?

[GK1707]

Originally Posted by RjDeeble

I ran ran amsoil in my 2005 rs for the first 80,000 miles. I switched to Mobile synthetic 5w30 and it seemed like it wasn’t even close to amsoil. Anyone else notice anything like this?

Close how? Oil pressure?

[russovi]

Surprised I didn't see Royal Purple on the list.

[snow_bound26]

Originally Posted by russovi

Surprised I didn't see Royal Purple on the list.

Royal Purple = bad, eww yucky, stay away

[bluesubie]

Originally Posted by russovi

Surprised I didn't see Royal Purple on the list.

RP has never been that popular in the Subaru community. To get a good Royal Purple oil these days, you need to go with one of their non-certified pricier HPS line that has Synerlec. But that line has high ZDDP and high detergent levels, neither of which are ideal in a DIT (intake valve deposits and LSPI). No worries in a non-DIT though.

If you go with the API certified High Performance Motor Oil line, you are probably not getting anything any better than you'd get for $25 for 5 qts at Wal-Mart or Amazon. Their oil lineup was revised when RP was purchased by Calumet.

Royal Purple's Synerlec - BITOG

[gdzllawrx]

Rotella t4

[Bumaa]

Originally Posted by gpshumway

Band aid, nothing more.

"Racing" applications tend to be adapted street cars, and often don't have the highest analytical standard in their design, lots of wives-tale engineering. The other thing that gets confused is that light street oils also have lower levels of traditional anti-wear additives, so "race" engines derived from old pushrod designs with stiff valve springs and flat tappet cams use 50 grade oils like M1 15w50 simply for the additive package. They need the additives, not the viscosity (generally speaking), but in street oils they come as a package deal. In pure race oils you get those sky-high additive levels in any grade you want down to 0w10.

Real race cars simply size the oil cooler to run thin oil. Joe Gibbs Racing uses pushrod engines to insane RPM and doesn't use anything thicker than 20 grade for races (at least according to their oil site), and they use straight 0w for qualifying! Remember, thick oil costs horsepower! In a street car it's not enough power to worry about, but in a race car where you're trying to shave tenths of a second per lap, it matters.

http://www.drivenracingoil.com/dro/c.../synthetichtml

The next time some BMW owner who proves the porcupine joke talks about how good 10w60 is, just smile knowing it's a band-aid BMW had to use to prevent their precious M engine from eating it's own bearings.

Interesting, RCM (Roger Clark Motorsport) Use Castrol 10w60 for their oil change kit, on all STI's. They are very reputable. And I believe Subi-Performance in Germany use 10w40 for stock internals and 10w60 for forged. Personally ill use a 5W40 for now since im living in Canada, wouldn't go thinner than that on an EJ.

https://rogerclarkmotorsport.co.uk/s...-subaru-filter

[MikesSTi]

Originally Posted by Bumaa

Interesting, RCM (Roger Clark Motorsport) Use Castrol 10w60 for their oil change kit, on all STI's. They are very reputable. And I believe Subi-Performance in Germany use 10w40 for stock internals and 10w60 for forged. Personally ill use a 5W40 for now since im living in Canada, wouldn't go thinner than that on an EJ.

https://rogerclarkmotorsport.co.uk/s...-subaru-filter

My engine builder also wanter heavier oil. 10w40 colder weather but since I live in the Southeast (Hotlanta) he recommended 15w50.

[Speed Assault]

nice article
i see its old

What happened to the Liqui Moly info?

Having great results with 2043 10w40 anti friction on Ej25 2008
able to reach 27.8 mpg highway and only burn half qrt at 4000 miles.

first bought car w 33K miles and @ 53k it Spun #4 using royal purple
driving easily from work to home.
Have now only used, Moble1, T6,

[Big-E]

I would like gear oil opinions.

Weight: 75w-90

Brands:
Motul
AMSOil
Schaeffer

I use Motul, but I no longer have access to great pricing. I don't shop solely based on pricing.

My car really just sits and if I do take it out, it's either to work in awful stop-and-go traffic, or it goes to Vermont where I can take it on a nice long ride up, there, and back.

Thank you.

[bluesubie]

Originally Posted by Big-E

I would like gear oil opinions.

Weight: 75w-90

Brands:
Motul
AMSOil
Schaeffer

I use Motul, but I no longer have access to great pricing. I don't shop solely based on pricing.

My car really just sits and if I do take it out, it's either to work in awful stop-and-go traffic, or it goes to Vermont where I can take it on a nice long ride up, there, and back.

Thank you.

One of my favorite gear oils that I used in my FXT was Mobil Delvac. Very difficult to find though. I used to get it from this Porsche shop but they're out of stock.

https://lufteknic.myshopify.com/coll...ant=1105443540

[19std]

Originally Posted by Big-E

I would like gear oil opinions.

Weight: 75w-90

Brands:
Motul
AMSOil
Schaeffer

I use Motul, but I no longer have access to great pricing. I don't shop solely based on pricing.

My car really just sits and if I do take it out, it's either to work in awful stop-and-go traffic, or it goes to Vermont where I can take it on a nice long ride up, there, and back.

Thank you.

I just put in MOTUL 300 Gear in my diff and tranny first change at 20k. It shifts like butter. Rear diff used to lock up funny on tight turns, all gone.

So in order of preference of brand i would try if Motul 300 Gear becomes difficult to find:

VP Racing 75w90ls
https://vpracingfuels.com/product/vp-hi-performance-full-syn-gl-5-sae-75w-90ls-gear-oil/

Torco RTF
https://torcousa.com/products/racing-transmission-fluid

Im mostly just praying France surrenders and starts sending us 300 gear again.

Nevermind, it's in stock at the rain forest again, at almost double the cost of the others i find, may have to try the others at this price point....