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Old 09-16-2016, 04:49 PM   #801
MetalHat
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Yeah the gates belt came without a single mark. I guess I'll just have to send it back. I don't trust myself to count the teeth right and not screw it up. I'll feel better if I get one with marks.
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Old 09-17-2016, 09:03 AM   #802
BaronOBeefdip
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That's odd. OEM for belts.
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Old 11-18-2016, 10:01 AM   #803
Gaertner
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Hi,

Thank you very much for this guide, it's fantastic!

I have done the timing belt last Sunday in my 03 wrx , and made about 100km know ; everything seems fine , but I wanted to know if it would it be possible that I missed up something and I don't realise it yet , for example if the valves where touching the pistons would I hear it clearly?

It was my first "big" work on the car , so I'm a bit unsure .


Thanksss

Oliver
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Old 12-12-2016, 08:55 PM   #804
NorthwestWRX
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Successfully completed my first timing belt change on my 2004 WRX. Thanks for the guide Meaty!

Found my culprit that was making all the noise
Old

New


And here it is with all the new pulleys belt and Tomei belt guide installed



Could have caused some catastrophic failure glad I didn't drive it until I had a chance to dig into it and find where that terrible noise was coming from
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Old 01-13-2017, 09:52 AM   #805
javapop
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Meatbawl View Post

8. Get into the car and put the car in 3rd gear and be sure the handbrake is applied all the way. Using a 22mm socket on a breaker bar, break loose the crank pulley. Remove the screw and wiggle the crank pulley side to side until it walks off the crank. If for any reason it doesn't walk off, try hitting each side of it with a rubber mallet. If you decide to pry it off with a crowbar, be sure not to pry against the plastic timing covers!
I have heard putting a MT in 5th gear. Is this car an Automatic or MT? After belt is changed, how do you torque down the crank pulley?

Thanks!
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Old 02-01-2017, 04:49 PM   #806
subarugirl46
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I followed your video guides and just did my first timing belt/water pump change! My baby thanks you! While I was in there I did both the oil pump and thermostat since I'm sitting at 175k miles. Thanks again for the awesome video's and write up!
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Old 02-01-2017, 05:21 PM   #807
javapop
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Great thread, just changed the belt on my 2005 XT Limited with a EJ255 engine.

Had a question, how do you hold the crankshaft to torque it? I used a breaker bar to loosen it.

In your videos, you mentioned having someone put it in 3rd gear, and put their foot on the brakes. Guessing manual transmission?

Last edited by javapop; 02-01-2017 at 10:38 PM.
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Old 02-05-2017, 03:23 AM   #808
CosmoTheCat
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Beg borrow or steal a crank pulley holding tool.
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Old 02-05-2017, 08:04 AM   #809
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CosmoTheCat View Post
Beg borrow or steal a crank pulley holding tool.
So glad I found this thread this morning! I did the ¾" plywood version, worked like a charm! Moving forward now!

Last edited by javapop; 03-10-2017 at 09:39 PM.
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Old 02-05-2017, 11:33 PM   #810
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LOL

Well I guess that'll work.
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Old 02-06-2017, 01:54 AM   #811
SirRichieLee
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Haha that is amazing
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Old 03-22-2017, 07:02 PM   #812
Coreycp86
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Default Gates T-belt kits

Looking on Amazon for a Gates T-belt kit and they all have terrible reviews. People are complaining about the parts no longer being made in Japan. Should I still trust Gates? I have yet to read any reviews about failure. They are mostly complaining about parts quality.
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Old 03-22-2017, 07:29 PM   #813
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Coreycp86 View Post
Looking on Amazon for a Gates T-belt kit and they all have terrible reviews. People are complaining about the parts no longer being made in Japan. Should I still trust Gates? I have yet to read any reviews about failure. They are mostly complaining about parts quality.
I was very hesitant due to reviews as well; but did decided to try it; but did get the OEM gasket for the water pump. Would recommend getting new fasteners for the pump also. I torqued the fasteners to spec, and one of the bolts snapped off. Had to get it drilled out. My belt was clearly marked.

The only thing in my Amazon Gates kit that wasn't stamped 'Japan' was the water pump. I've put close to 6k miles on my 05 Legacy XT since doing the timing belt and water pump with no problems at all.
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Old 03-23-2017, 11:07 AM   #814
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Coreycp86 View Post
Looking on Amazon for a Gates T-belt kit and they all have terrible reviews. People are complaining about the parts no longer being made in Japan. Should I still trust Gates? I have yet to read any reviews about failure. They are mostly complaining about parts quality.
I guess I got lucky with my amazon gates kit (tho did the '04+ kit with improved idler) and all parts from the motherland (well, maybe not the gaskets, but tossing those for OEM).

Quote:
Originally Posted by javapop View Post
I was very hesitant due to reviews as well; but did decided to try it; but did get the OEM gasket for the water pump. Would recommend getting new fasteners for the pump also. I torqued the fasteners to spec, and one of the bolts snapped off. Had to get it drilled out. My belt was clearly marked.

The only thing in my Amazon Gates kit that wasn't stamped 'Japan' was the water pump. I've put close to 6k miles on my 05 Legacy XT since doing the timing belt and water pump with no problems at all.
Yeah, planning to do the OEM water pump & stat gaskets and replacement pump and stat housing bolts.

But now I'm getting bubbles in the overflow tank (147K miles)...so no belt til that gets sussed out.
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Old 03-27-2017, 03:16 PM   #815
Katsukara
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So this has probably been answered somewhere, and I also see mixed things here and there. Anyway, I'm in the middle of doing the timing itself.
I've already routed the belt over the passenger side, and aligned the marks up properly. I got the belt over the driver side upper cam (aligned the marks), then did the same with the lower driver side cam. I had my dad hold the cams in place, but as I applied tension to the cam.. I'm guessing his hand slipped, and the cam slipped off the belt, rotated slightly, but the top cam is still in alignment ..
My question is, do I need to continue rotating the lower cam CCW till it lines up?
Do I need to rotate them both slowly in their rotation direction (Top cam CW, and lower CCW), or Just rotated the lower cam CW till it gets back to placement? If anyone can answer this thanks.

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Old 03-27-2017, 03:35 PM   #816
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Katsukara View Post
My question is, do I need to continue rotating the lower cam CCW till it lines up?
Do I need to rotate them both slowly in their rotation direction (Top cam CW, and lower CCW), or Just rotated the lower cam CW till it gets back to placement? If anyone can answer this thanks.
Mine was held with a pair of clamp plyers and they slipped off, and the cams both jumped off slightly. I lined everything back up, and had no problems. It doesn't look like it went off too far. You'll need to slip the belt off again to turn it, and may need a hand or clamp to hold that top one in place again.

Be sure to manually turn by hand once the belt is back on, 3 rotations. Be sure the marks still line up. The belt marks will not; but the marks on the cams with engine should. If that looks good, you are fine. I will order the cam lock from company 23 before doing the timing belt again!

These are the plyers I used on mine:

Last edited by javapop; 03-27-2017 at 03:40 PM. Reason: added photo
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Old 03-27-2017, 03:39 PM   #817
BaronOBeefdip
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Yeah fix that immediately. Think about what the cam lobes are doing and where they are in respect to travel across the buckets and what that is imparting on the valves.....if you go back to page 30 and look at the pics I posted it should make more sense. Granted I have single AVCS and you don't, but the principles are still the same.

Basically when the manufacturer tells you to rotate only in specific directions, they are assuming you have load on the cam lobes, so this is where rotation becomes a factor and you have to pay attention to make sure the valves don't crash.

For instance, since you need to rotate the exhaust cam and we see the intake cam stayed in place, we can assume cylinder 2's intake valves are starting the lift phase while cylinder 4's intakes are shut(non-lift phase). However, when the exhaust cam is timed properly, the inverse of the intake cam is occurring - that is, cylinder 2's exhaust is in non-lift, whereas cylinder 4's exhaust is beginning its lift phase....I hope you understand.

So in a long-winded way, what I'm saying is yes it simply looks like the exhaust snapped back off the load clockwise, since cyl.4's lobe is skewed in that direction when it begins its lift phase. You should be good to rotate the exhaust CCW back into the cam marks lining up with the intake cam. You do not need to rotate the intake, just the exhaust CCW.

Last edited by BaronOBeefdip; 03-27-2017 at 04:00 PM. Reason: some words
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Old 03-27-2017, 03:46 PM   #818
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Yeah, I'm buying the tool for sure after this.. Have an 02 that needs a new belt soon. I'll rotate it back CCW, and hopefully all goes well. XD
This is the main Daily, so I was nervous going against the FSM rotation.

Thanks btw.
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Old 03-27-2017, 03:47 PM   #819
javapop
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Katsukara View Post
Yeah, I'm buying the tool for sure after this.. Have an 02 that needs a new belt soon. I'll rotate it back CW, and hopefully all goes well. XD
This is the main Daily, so I was nervous going against the FSM rotation.

Thanks btw.
need to rotate CCW
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Old 03-27-2017, 03:54 PM   #820
BaronOBeefdip
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NO NO, go back and read what we wrote. You need to rotate CCW.
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Old 03-27-2017, 03:57 PM   #821
Katsukara
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I fixed it.. I meant CCW. But again thanks guys.
I'm still new to the EJ's, so I'm just going with caution.
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Old 06-03-2017, 07:46 PM   #822
BeignetsAllDay
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I just replaced the timing belt on car today for the first time and had anxiety after the drivers side cams spun, even though, it's said to be normal. I've been a mechanic for quite a few years and done timing chains on 5.0 supercharged rovers but for some reason this worried me more.

This write up was amazing and when I finished the car it started right up and purred smoothly. I have a 99 2.5rs with a 2003 V8 sti swap so I came across a situation that I couldn't find here. I have AVCS and therefore had to use a couple different tools to line up my intake cam because there is no bolt in the middle to utilize for turning. I didn't relize the situation till I had the belt off. There is a tool you can buy http://www.company23.com/501 for around 50. I used a second pair of hands and a carefully situated prybar as well as a ratchet on the 8mm AVCS cover for holding tension while turning the cam clockwise. That was nerve racking and I didn't want to do it but it worked great.

I used a gates belt kit which included all new pulleys and tensioners that I purchased from a local shop in Montreal.

That's my .10 and hopefully helps people with this type of swap.

Last edited by BeignetsAllDay; 06-03-2017 at 07:47 PM. Reason: Noob to links (sorry if this violates the links option) just wanted the picture for reference
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Old 06-06-2017, 12:19 AM   #823
BaronOBeefdip
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It SHOULD worry you....these are interference engines, haha! The situation you're talking about is exactly what we're talking about in this thread though. Yes, we know that Company23 tool exists, haha.

Though I'm not entirely sure why you'd use any sort of torque on the cam cover to hold it in place. Sounds to me like an easy way to bend/break the cover, or maybe I'm not getting the picture you're painting here....

And it's been said here before, but for pulleys and tensioners, OEM is really what you should be using, but to each his own...it's been known that Gates timing components, other than the belts, have not been consistent over the past couple years.
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Old 06-11-2017, 11:02 AM   #824
BeignetsAllDay
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BaronOBeefdip View Post
It SHOULD worry you....these are interference engines, haha! The situation you're talking about is exactly what we're talking about in this thread though. Yes, we know that Company23 tool exists, haha.

Though I'm not entirely sure why you'd use any sort of torque on the cam cover to hold it in place. Sounds to me like an easy way to bend/break the cover, or maybe I'm not getting the picture you're painting here....

And it's been said here before, but for pulleys and tensioners, OEM is really what you should be using, but to each his own...it's been known that Gates timing components, other than the belts, have not been consistent over the past couple years.
I had installed the tensioner and used a small pry bar on the tensioner housing as a pivot point and rotated the cam gear like adjusting drum brakes. Another guy I was with suggested the ratchet just to keep it from spinning backwards. I didn't like the idea and had the same thoughts as you but couldn't get it in the correct place without it spinning all the way around again. I apparently missed the picture above but ended up using needle nose vice grips to keep them ligned up. Question: Can you remove that cover without causing any issues?

I did read a lot of posts on the inconsistency over the past few years. To me it seemed as though most of the issues were dealing with proper installation rather then the actual product. That was my take on the gates inconsistency reviews at least for the tensioner.

Last edited by BeignetsAllDay; 06-11-2017 at 11:10 AM. Reason: question
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Old 06-13-2017, 01:41 PM   #825
RicardoPT
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Please help .
Did the timing belt, and now the car occasionally shakes on idle, sometimes it throws a cell or two.Car runs fine in any rpm range.
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