Anti lift kit delivered. Any tips on install?

[Evil-Mastermind]

I've just received my ALK but before I get jiggy with it, thought I'd ask for some help.
Anything special I should know, like is it a real pain in the keister to install, do I really have to re-lube all the bushings every few months, should an average joe with not much greasemonkey experience attempt such a modification or simply look to the professionals, etc., etc., etc.....
Any info will help.

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[Basshead]

it's relatively straight forward to install...get that car high up on some stands and a nice breaker bar..also a friend to hold the entire arm up, is a must have on this install...also some large metric sockets

[Jay_UK]

You might find that the bolt holes dont always line up... this is where a file/dremel comes in.

They might be 1mm out... just enough to stop you getting the bolt in.

J.

[Rubasu]

I have been trying to get these @#!$ things on for awhile now. Getting a socket onto the bolt on the end of the arm is next to impossible because of where it is located. How did you guys get this bolt off?

[Jay_UK]

easily

J.

[Rubasu]

Ok mr. smartypants how did you get the socket on? I have tried everything short of a hammer

[This message has been edited by Rubasu (edited December 04, 2000).]

[zzyzx]

Remove the large nut you're referring with a closed or open end wrench, not a socket. I also found it useful to remove the cross-member that support the transmission/engine. It's not hard to remove, and clears some space for putting the new ALK mounts into place. I did the whole thing myself, so another person is not absolutely necessary, though it would help so 'pry' the lower arm into place to get the bolts into the mount.

I would have to say if you need to drill to accomplish this, then you took a short-cut that will untimately affect the caster/geometry resulting in unequal geometies on each side.

If you can't pry the lower arm to get things into place, consider taking off the bolt on the lower mount for the arm bar so that it drops away, and this will make things a tad easier.

You will want a 1/2" ratchet w/6" extension and 19mm socket to deal with the bolts that hold the mount onto the body. Using a breaker bar on this will help a lot. I had a harder time dealing with these bolts then any other part of the install. I used a 3/8" socket and actually broke a 19mm socket in half! Oh, think I broke by thumb, too, it's been over a week and it still hurts a lot.

- Steve


[This message has been edited by zzyzx (edited December 04, 2000).]

[P.K. Motorsports]

I would not suggest prying the control arm down as they suggest. Instead loosen the front control arm mount, this should give you enough room to wiggle the new rear mount close enough to aligned that you can get the bolts started. By the way, that also allows you to get a socket over the nut on the end, but it is TIGHT. If you don't have a lift don't even think about doing this job yourself.

[Imprezer]

Are you all guys or girls? I intsalled a set into Bluesaint's car at the auto-x in about 1 hours. No lift, no airtools, no helpers. I don't know why everyone is having so much problems. Remove the old links. Remover the stopper pin and 19mm nut that attaches the control arm to the spindle. Wack the control arm with a hammer. Install the new ALK, insrt spindle into the control arm, put the 19mm nut back and insert a stopper pin. If you are having problems alligning everyhting, simply unbold the control arm from the x-member. Simple. Very simple. I have pictures of the install. Just need to document it.

[zzyzx]

I agree with you, Imprezer. I just had bad luck with the tools. The job itself is not rocket science. A lift is outta the question, as is the need for a partner to get it done.

- Steve