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Old 08-03-2012, 10:05 AM   #51
JarHarms
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While waiting on parts to arrive I am tinkering on an improved install of the DCCDpro unit.
I remounted the G sensor to a modified STi G sensor bracket which is bolted under the center console. I was not thrilled with the directly cemented down method since that is kind of hard to remove the G sensor (if required). I broke off the 8mm bolts (dang rust) so had to drill them out and get replacement bolts.
Have been brainstorming on cleaning up the wiring to appear more factory installed. I am trying to remount the DCCDpro unit to the back of the glove box (like OEM). With some extra parts I should be able to integrate the power circuit into the fuse box as if it was factory installed. Also working on piecing together another wiring related project for later on. Also thinking of a possible use for those dumb s/n plate holes in the center console.
Pulled off skirts and aero panels to do some cleaning out of the collected road debris. These collect more junk than you would think. Broke off a few of the panel clips and will have to get new ones. I also found my prior alignment guy. He resurfaced in a nearby town so I have to get my butt over there and see if he has equipment to align the WRX.
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Last edited by JarHarms; 07-01-2013 at 10:26 PM.
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Old 08-07-2012, 01:54 PM   #52
JarHarms
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Oil pickup and oil pan are installed. While Killer B's oil pan is a beautiful part, it is a PITA to get those 4 rear bolts installed as everyone says. Being allen sockets doesn't help either. I would rather them be plain hex flange since I have a nice snap-on 10mm swivel socket. The allen sockets are probably used for their smaller head diameter. Just have to tighten up the exh manifold related bolts tonight and then on to pulling the 6MT back out.


Learned that the front diff bolts are external torx bolts with a very small engagement. Since I don't touch euro cars much, I do not own any of those sockets. Ordered an inexpensive set since I will end up grinding the end of the E20 down to fit the bolts better.
Wiring projects are on hold while I move forward on the front diff work. Probably a good break since I am kind of hindered by not being able to start the engine for my circuit checks. Plus I am planning a new power circuit to feed the DCCDpro so I'll need dedicated focus on that. I am pretty excited about the used parts I found to harvest parts from (fusebox, switches, harness connectors, etc). A bit spendy but I like wiring to appear as OEM as possible.

Last edited by JarHarms; 07-01-2013 at 10:26 PM.
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Old 08-07-2012, 09:40 PM   #53
96accord
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Nice updates. Keep them up!
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Old 08-09-2012, 09:00 AM   #54
JarHarms
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Well it's out and opened up. I was planing to benchmark the original side retainer locations but ended up looking at the wrong mark I made. So I will be starting from scratch upon reassembly. At least I will learn something useful. The front case is easy to remove and obviously do-able without entirely disassembling the 6MT. I mean, it's not impossible look at it here.


Today I'll look for some arbors of the right size to press the new bearings onto the new differential. Should be able to get the VSS gear and bearings installed tonight. Waiting on the right E20 socket for the ring gear swap, probably later this week. Then on to learning how to set the backlash, preload, and check pattern.

Last edited by JarHarms; 07-01-2013 at 10:27 PM.
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Old 08-18-2012, 09:08 PM   #55
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Speedo gear, diff bearings, and ring gear are installed to the new diff carrier. I tried heating the bearings (mapp gas) before going to the press. They dropped right in place. In fact I would use the heating method over the press any day. Just don't forget the speedo gear first. The ring gear transfered over easily.


I ground down the E20 socket to get more engagement to the ring gear bolts. Although I am not sure why Subaru does not use shouldered bolts that fit tighter to the carrier. Actually that is kind of 'effing stupid not to do so.


I did not have any test indicators to borrow so I ordered up an inexpensive set for my tool collection. Next step is to get the diff assembly back into the clutch housing and move onto setting the backlash, preset, and check pattern. Getting time to work on the WRX is much much tougher now.
Found new oil leaking on the garage. Dang, looks like a problem with the oil pan. Will have to revisit that again.

Last edited by JarHarms; 09-03-2012 at 09:08 AM.
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Old 08-31-2012, 03:17 PM   #56
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Finally!!! I have a front diff living inside the clutch housing again. The Quaife carrier is slightly larger than the Subaru helical carrier. It hits the case before dropping into place. The VSS needed removing so the speedo drive could be pushed upwards for extra positioning room. After that the Quaife dropped right into place. I used some lube on the side retainer threads and installed those without the o-rings for now. Just have to get enough time to figure out the backlash, pre-load, and pattern checks. I might have this trans back in before too long.


Oil pan is indeed leaking from what I suspect was a poor sealant bond at the rear of the pan flange. At first it almost looked like it was leaking from the new rear main oil seal. Crap, the exhaust manifold will have to come back down. I'll take that opportunity to cut the 1/2npt port a little deeper. I might cut down the hex key socket I used for the last oil pan install. That might make the re-install a bit easier?

Some little things. I changed the hazard switch to a red version and installed some S204 HVAC dials (silver with red indicator). I was getting some other parts and thought why not. Looks alright. Aero under panels are back in place with a few new clips. I have been getting rid of some leftover parts to clear up some garage space. LOOK......RED.....OOOOH



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Old 09-02-2012, 05:34 PM   #57
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very impressive build my man. great eye for detail
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Old 09-02-2012, 06:42 PM   #58
sc00ter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JarHarms View Post
...
The pile of parts I have been collecting:
used APS turbo inlet - NASIOC user
used VF48 - NASIOC user
Process West TMIC - Rally Sport Direct
TGV deletes - Grimmspeed
EBCS - Grimmspeed
(undecided) injectors
DM300 pump - Rally Sport Direct
EL header - Boston Motor Sports
Invidia v2 cat-less downpipe - Rally Sport Direct
GpN engine mounts - Rallispec
GpN comp trans mount - Rallispec
new steering rack - Q-Rack
used PS cooler - NASIOC user
I have a very similar setup and wanted to mention that my tuner actually recommended keeping the stock injectors for the VF48. At 19psi I put down 308whp and 327ft-lb TQ and my max injector duty cycle is only 85%. So if you plan on getting tuned on pump gas I'd say upgrading the injectors is not a necessity. However, if you plan to move to e85 that definitely changes things.

Looks like you are moving in a great direction with the car. Keep it up!
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Old 09-03-2012, 08:52 AM   #59
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ROCK WHITE View Post
very impressive build my man. great eye for detail
Thanks for the kind comments.

Quote:
Originally Posted by sc00ter View Post
I have a very similar setup and wanted to mention that my tuner actually recommended keeping the stock injectors for the VF48. At 19psi I put down 308whp and 327ft-lb TQ and my max injector duty cycle is only 85%. So if you plan on getting tuned on pump gas I'd say upgrading the injectors is not a necessity. However, if you plan to move to e85 that definitely changes things.

Looks like you are moving in a great direction with the car. Keep it up!
Thanks for the suggestions. I had read the posts about your build awhile ago, it was very helpful. At first I was going to stay with the oem injectors but since I will have the top end apart for the TGVs, inlet, etc it is easier to swap the injectors out then. I am thinking of trying E85 after the initial tune is sorted out. After awhile I "may" replace the VF48 with a 18XT-R, 20XT-R, or similar.


I got a little further setting the backlash but uncertain of the FSM wording -vs- what actually needs to be done. I will try again asking for some suggestions but I expect it to fall on deaf ears (question). I'll be able to see better once I get the test indicator on it.

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Old 09-05-2012, 08:55 AM   #60
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Hmm well last night didn't work out as expected.
I had the zero backlash position then set backlash and tried measuring with a dial test indicator (DTI). The DTI measurement is a pain on it's own. Once I took the clutch housing off I noticed that the diff rotates with a "clunck" "clunck" "clunck" which means the retainers are too loose. I am going to have to rethink and try again. I guess I am learning something here.

Last edited by JarHarms; 10-01-2012 at 08:47 AM.
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Old 09-14-2012, 12:20 AM   #61
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Ah ha. I think I have it. Back lash is within spec, preload is good on the carrier, and the pattern check looked right. Cleaned up the sealing surfaces and plan to bolt the clutch housing back on tomorrow after work. If things work out I should have most of the trans, front axles, driveshaft, etc back in place over the weekend. Very pleased. I found this alternative orientation was easier for me during the backlash measurements.


**I rechecked it in the FSM suggested position and it was still good to go. If I was to do this again I would try mocking up a cradle to rest the trans on its topside, this way pinion shaft drop is no issue and the inspection port is easy to read from.







Result of that Thread ------------------------------------------------------->
Note this is 6MT perspective only! 5MT and AUTO may share some of the procedure but I am not intermixing them. It just gets confusing to weed out what applies and what does not. So I ask you to refrain from polluting this thread with anything other than 6MT related posts.

I suggest you pre-mark and count sundial turns before you start just in case you need a start over point of reference. Even if you are changing parts out, it cannot hurt to have the measurements handy.

Some nomenclature terms
Clutch housing = bell housing
Side retainers = sundials
Hypoid gear = ring gear
Drive pinion = pinion gear

Supplies
Secure way to position 6MT assembly
Hand tools and tq wrench - 14mm mostly
LHS retainer tool and RHS retainer tool
....modified oil filter wrenchs are cheaper than the Kent-Moore tools
....a blunt pin and hammer works in a pinch as well just use caution
LHS and RHS axle shafts (or axle stubs)
Drive shaft
Dial indicator/test indicator, mag base, steel plate
Gear pattern compound – GM yellow is excellent or get some from Ebay
New side retainer o-rings
new axle seals (optional but recommended)
Illuminated bore scope
Patience.......a lot of it.

Picture beginning with the components disassembled. The clutch housing is removed without having to fully break down the 6MT. I have done this before sans having to set backlash and preload. This is sort of the order you are working in.

Install diff carrier
Starting with clutch housing separate from the 6MT.
Remove o-rings and apply oil to threads on both side retainers.
**I instead opted for copper based anti-seize.
Hold 6MT diff inside clutch housing.
**If you are installing an aftermarket diff it might not drop into place like the oem diff. In this case remove the VSS sensor and push the VSS drive shaft/gear upwards. That will give you enough room to swing in the diff. Just make sure you put the VSS components back as they belong.
Install side retainers to both sides but RHS retainer should be threaded in slightly further than LHS.
**This keeps the ring gear from being too close and binding on the pinion as you bolt the clutch housing to the 6MT.

Backlash Adjustment
Set 6MT upright, resting on the oil pan, and securely support from tipping over.
Install clutch housing (diff equipped) to 6MT and torque bolts to 50Nm spec. **I did not tighten each bolt, maybe 5-6 evenly around the housing.
I need to work on this wording, it is not to my liking yet..............
Loosen RHS retainer slightly.
**I worked 1 tooth at a time.
Tighten LHS retainer until pinion and ring gears make slight contact.
Turn drive pinion shaft several revolutions.
**In this situation you will be turning the drive shaft while connected to the 6MT output shaft.
Can LHS retainer be tightened more? Yes – repeat steps, No – stop repeat steps.
** Although it will take a few times doing this cycle, so don't just stop after the 1st one.
[repeat] Loosen RHS retainer.
[repeat] Tighten LHS retainer until pinion and ring gears make slight contact.
[repeat] Turn drive pinion shaft several revolutions.
Can LHS retainer be tightened more? Yes – repeat steps, No – stop repeat steps.
[repeat] Loosen RHS retainer.
[repeat] Tighten LHS retainer until pinion and ring gears make slight contact.
[repeat] Turn drive pinion shaft several revolutions.
Can LHS retainer be tightened more? Yes – repeat steps, No – stop repeat steps.
[repeat] Loosen RHS retainer.
[repeat] Tighten LHS retainer until pinion and ring gears make slight contact.
[repeat] Turn drive pinion shaft several revolutions.
Can LHS retainer be tightened more? Yes – repeat steps, No – stop repeat steps.
**Let's assume at this point you are there.
Tighten RHS retainer until inner and outer bearing races make slight contact.
**By "make slight contact" I mean the bearing is touching without any load. The best way to check this is when you take the clutch housing off the 6MT you should be able to easily rotate the diff without any "clunk" "clunk" "clunk" noises. If it is hard to rotate, then loosen the RHS retainer. If you hear "clunk" "clunk" "clunk", then tighten the RHS retainer.
The current condition is “zero” backlash.
Temporarily mark these positions on both side retainers.
**I used a permanent marker to save this position.
Yep it's not complete..........adding to this as I go
**I tried the following steps a few times with the 6MT resting on its oil pan and the clutch housing hanging over the edge of the bench. Eff that PITA, watching the dial indicator was tough and I am neither young or a gymnast. I found it way easier to sit the 6MT on its engine mating side with the extension case pointed strait up. Makes everything nice and easy to set up and see. There is some concern that it impact the pinion position. Either way I initially set up vertical then final test with the trans horizontal.
Loosen LHS retainer 3 teeth.
Tighten RHS retainer 3 teeth.
**By doing this you are attempting to move out from the zero backlash position enough to place you close to the specified backlash range. Note at this point there is still no pre-load on the diff bearings.
Install both axle shafts.
** Since the 6MT has an LSD diff you may only need one axle shaft to rotate the assembly due to internal pre-loading. Other diffs may require both axles shafts to rotate the assembly. I think maybe using axle stubs is easier to manipulate than full axle shafts, but I did not have any laying around.
Fix the drive pinion shaft so it may not move.
**The point is to hold the pinion gear firmly in place so it can not move and skew your backlash readings. Since I did not have the back portion of the 6MT disassembled this was hardly possible. Instead I used a illuminated bore scope to watch the pinion gear and make sure it did not move while I took backlash readings.
Use dial indicator, mag base, and plate to measure backlash of ring gear. Spec is 0.13 – 0.18mm
Move axle shafts by hand to rotate diff back and forth during your measurements. You must do this without moving the pinion gear.
If backlash is out of spec, adjust LHS and RHS retainers the same turns to adjust.
If backlash is in spec, move on to setting bearing pre-load.

Diff bearing pre-load
Tighten the RHS retainer 1.75 teeth to set pre-load.
I suggest retesting your backlash measurement to make sure it is still close to the spec 0.13 – 0.18mm.
**I figure backlash should be close after setting pre-load, if grossly off then something may have been wrong when initially setting backlash. Go back and check that out before progressing.
Set the 6MT back down on its oil pan.
Remove the clutch housing from the 6MT.
Rotate the diff with your hand, it should rotate smoothly without too much effort. But must have enough resistance to stop rotation as soon as your hand is removed from the diff. Subjective.

Tooth Contact Adjustment
Since the clutch housing is already removed, go on to the pattern work.
Apply gear pattern compound on both sides of 3-4 ring gear teeth. Avoid globs of compound since that tends to smear and can keep you from getting clear pattern marks.
Install clutch housing to 6MT and torque bolts to 50Nm spec.
Add some load to the diff carrier.
**This helps ensure clear pattern marks to look at. Although in this 6MT design it is pretty hard to use the traditional methods. I opted to install the drive shaft and have it add a little resistance.
Rotate drive pinion shaft right and left several times through compound. (drive shaft output splines)
Remove clutch housing from 6MT and inspect tooth pattern on both the coast and drive sides.
**Keep in mind that the drive side is the convex (outside of the shell) surface and the coast is the concave (inside of shell) surface.
If face to flank pattern is not in spec use only the side retainers to adjust.

If heel to toe pattern is not in spec you have to adjust the pinion shims and then side retainers to adjust.
Spec no-load tooth contact is 50% between face and flank and 50-60% from center towards toe side. Loaded operation will move tooth contact towards the heel side resulting in centered contact.
**Since this thread does not go into the pinion shim aspect I'm not even going to cover this step.

If pattern is in spec, remove clutch housing assembly, and clean off compound.
Mark the side retainer positions.

Retainer o-rings
Remove the first retainer while counting the rotations.
**I have not found that starting with LHS or RHS makes a difference.
Install new o-ring to retainer, add some clean oil, then return retainer the same rotations to the marked position.
Remove the second retainer while counting the rotations.
Install new o-ring to retainer, add some clean oil, then return retainer the same rotations to the marked position.
Reinstall clutch housing and diff to 6MT.
Done.

Last edited by JarHarms; 06-03-2014 at 02:23 PM.
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Old 09-15-2012, 06:49 PM   #62
JarHarms
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And we're going back in. 6MT that is.

That creeper sucks and I think I have used up its last leg.

The oil pan was removed for re-sealing. I tried out removing it without dropping the exhaust manifold. Sad to say it is not an option since the oil pan gets wedged between the cross member, oil cooler, and cross pipe flange. So I decided to try out just removing the cross pipe, which worked out well with some additional "rubix cube contortionist" work on the oil pan. So as long as I can remember how to get the oil pan back in this will only cost me two new cross pipe gaskets.

Also my opinion on the 3M Ultraseal (Fugi bond equivalent) is questioned. I am not sure if it is an adequate equivalent or if oil possibly got on the sealing surfaces during initial install. The oil pan came off way to easily suggesting low adhesive properties or oil contamination being a factor. I will be re-installing with Ultra Gray since I have always had good results and will clean the beejesus out of the surfaces.
The 6MT clutch housing and extension housing were both sealed with 3M Ultraseal and seem to be holding up fine. Time will only tell if any leaks develop and require re-sealing with something better.

Also picked up a 3.90 R180 in good shape. Figured that I might like to upgrade to an R180 a little later on. Just have to decide on the SpecB/WRX hybrid axles, 5x100 STi rear knuckles, or full 5x114 conversion.

Last edited by JarHarms; 03-27-2013 at 05:21 PM.
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Old 10-01-2012, 08:44 AM   #63
JarHarms
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SMY dual meter bezel installed along with a brand new cluster lens. Looks pretty good. >REVIEW LINK<


Oil pan is back in place and waiting for sealant to get a good cure. Will fill with oil and leak check before lowering the engine and bolting the other parts back on. I pulled off the LHS exhaust elbow since it made re-setting the oil pan easier. New Grimmspeed crossover gaskets arrived a few days ago.
Have to take a short break on the WRX since my "fleet" grew by another car. I'm running out of parking room so I need to ready my daily beater for it's new owner. Although the new daily beater I am being passed down is not really my favorite but it gets good gas mileage. Taking one for the family I guess. I tried for a Forester but the Subaru salesman pissed the wife off. Although not a Subaru, I do like our new Rav4 but I won't get to drive it much. Ordered another want-list item and later that night finally found a complete USDM STI steering wheel assembly I have been casually looking for. At least there is no swapping airbags as I needed with a JDM GDB-e/f/g wheel.


"What" could it be? Smell that japan air?


Went to help test drive a very clean bugeye for a friend. Heck, if I had the extra space I would have bought it just to save for a project. It was very nice considering it has lived in IL.

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Old 10-01-2012, 11:25 AM   #64
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Very cool build man. You have quite the eye for details. I'm jelly... I should have found a premium. Darn TR!
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Old 10-01-2012, 12:14 PM   #65
JarHarms
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Thanks.
I wouldn't be bummed with a TR over a Ltd, the differences are not that much. Looking back I'd rather not have a moon roof since I lost just enough height to make wearing a helmet mildly annoying. Although the TR seats are meh but easy to switch out.

Last edited by JarHarms; 10-03-2012 at 10:24 AM.
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Old 10-08-2012, 09:14 AM   #66
JarHarms
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Was blessed with some time to work on the WRX yesterday and possibly tonight. I might get it back on all 4 tires this week which leaves me with some wiring work to do. Then I'll try some test cycles to check for leaks and operation prior to the first drive on the new gear ratios. My garage looks trashed.....
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Old 10-19-2012, 09:31 PM   #67
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It's off the jack stands and on the tires. Going through my gambit of checks but so far it all looks good. Might be able to start some test drives before the weather goes to crap. Just need to re-wire the DCCD controller and recheck fluid levels. Although the DCCD wiring it might take a bit longer than I'd like.
Casually collecting 5x114.3 conversion parts for next summer's project. I've done more than a few of these but now why not on my own car.





**just starting to collect some of my info here**
Some thoughts that might help, I tried to list chronologically and in terms of the more cost-factoring considerations to make. Also dumped a bit more of the choices in case it helps someone wanting to go a slightly different route. There is more than one path to take on this conversion.
Are you opting for the 1) BCD (PCD) change, 2) front bearing change, 3) result of an R180 install, 4) of some combination of these?


2005+ STI front knuckle assemblies (LHS & RHS) will bolt to your existing lower control arm via the same lower ball joint. Your outer tie rods will also bolt to these knuckles.
The strut clevis (thickness and bolt spacing) is different so it will require either:
1) Modifying 2005+ knuckles by reducing clevis thickness, fill/weld the upper hole, and replace with proper location hole from 5x100 type knuckles. Will probably require machinist and welder.
2) Purchase of pre-modified 2005+ knuckles which 6gun and LIC offered. *6gun is gone and LIC "might" still have these.
3) Use the 2005+ knuckles as-is which requires 5x114 type front struts.
**Using as-is nd change to 2005+ front struts seems like more cost. However it does offset the knuckle modification cost or premium price of pre-modded knuckles. Cost could be a wash between the two. It DOES offer the fact that you are not running some one-off part that could be a pain to replace if damage ever occurred. Unmolested OEM parts are easy to get at the local dealer, your favorite online parts supply, or used. I tend to think of that as a sizable advantage.**


The BCD is (obviously) different between the 5x100 and 5x114 hubs. Sucky part is there is no OEM 5x100 hub/bearing units that will bolt to those 2005+ knuckles so it requires either:
1)Modifying hub/bearing units by pressing the units apart, reducing hub OD to 124mm, offset drilling 5x100 bcd, clearance the stud flanges, reinstall studs, and then press back together. Will require machinist experienced in properly drilling bcd's and it really isn't cheaper unless you are the machinist. At least you could repack with HP800 grease while they are apart.
2)Purchase of pre-modified hub/bearing units which LIC offered. I will warn you they look pretty spendy at first but the cost comes out as a wash if you buy new hubs and then pay a driveline specific machine shop to do the work.
3)Use the hub/bearing units as-is which will require you to change to 5x114 wheels, spare tire (everyone forgets to mention that), and a REAR conversion.
**It DOES offer the fact that you are not running some one-off part that could be a pain to replace if damage ever occurred. Insert all the 6gun users that have been asking for these modified hub units for the past few years. Unmolested OEM parts are easy to get at the local dealer or your favorite online parts supply.**


ABS sensor placement is different so it requires either:
1) Modifying your existing axles with LIC ABS tone wheel spacers. There are two sizes (6mm and 8mm) so remove the ABS sensor and measure the thickness of your tone wheels before ordering. The spacer installation is well within your means. Just don't give away your spacers with a core if you ever have to replace one of the axles. Also not that I found my 2006 WRX axles would slightly rub their dust shields against the bottom side of the 2005+ knuckle assembly. I just cut those shields off and now no more noise.
2) Swapping out your axles for 2005+ STi front axles...Plug and Play.


The brake dust shield is different between the 5x100 and 5x114 knuckles primarily due to the hub/bearing unit attachment and the OD of STI brake rotors.
If you are sticking to WRX sized rotors:
1)Run without them.
2)Run them untrimmed. They will poke out around smaller WRX sized rotors but who cares.
3)Trim down the OD to about the OD of WRX rotors. Then hit them with some paint so they don't rust up right away.
If you are moving to STI sized rotors:
1)Run without them.
2)Run the 2005+ shields as-is.


Brake calipers
1)Use your 4pots.
2)Change to Brembo calipers. Not really a functional change for a DD so I doubt you are going that route.


Brake rotors have some bcd and OD considerations.
1)If going the 5x100 route then the WRX rotors will work or you can use the STI gravel spec rotors (5x100 bcd versions). Dave Rallispec can source them for you. Or you can get the ones from KNS brakes (DBA) which are dual drilled.
2)If going the 5x114 route then you will need the STI gravel spec rotors (5x114 bcd versions) to fit over the larger OD hub flange. Dave Rallispec can also source those for you. Or you can get the ones from KNS brakes (DBA) which are dual drilled.
3)If for some reason you are adding in Brembo calipers then all you need is 2005+ STI front rotors. At least then you can get Centric Premiums at a reduced cost. But your brake pads are going to cost more.


Temporary Spare Tire.
No one seem to mention this regarding this conversion. I'd hate to be the guy that does all this work then is left stranded on the road with a flat.
If staying 5x100, check that your existing temporary wheel will fit over the brake calipers you are using.
If moving to 5x114.3 then you will need the 2005+ STI temporary spare wheel.

Good luck.

Last edited by JarHarms; 02-08-2017 at 10:08 AM.
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Old 12-29-2012, 06:57 PM   #68
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Got about 300 test miles in before snow dropped. So far so good, the ratio changes on the 6MT are (for my needs/wants) well worth the cost and hassle. The new Quaife front diff has also turned out to be a blessing in disguise. All this car needs now is a proper LSD in the rear which I should have sorted out in the spring with the R180 and however I plan to merge those parts to the car. The other WRX's that I have 6MT swapped all handled better but this is a nice change to that improvement. The StopTech front pads are already showing improvement over the Posi-Quiets.....rear StopTech pads are sure to follow in the spring. Strangely the D-Specs are now operating silently now.

Picked up a fairly clean set of silver BBS 5x114 wheels. Still going back and forth on new hubs as-is 5x114 or converted to 5x100. The thing is I REALLY like my MT1's but I'm not a fan of using such special parts like redrilled 5x100 hub units. Although I have used them before. There really isn't a cost savings one way or another. At least I have all winter to think it over.


I did not get the steering rack installed. So it goes on next year's list along with the steering wheel, new sport mesh grills, and hopefully a new front bumper. Once I get my plan figured for this hub conversion I'll be out of those D-Specs for good. If I can really make progress I'll get the powertrain parts installed and have this thing e-tuned. I did wrap the downpipe that has been hiding out in the basement. I usually do not use thermal wrap but this new LR type wrap is a HUGE improvement over the old FG "junk" wrap. 51' in the package, 37' for a complete wrap, and 14' leftover for something else. I'll run this wrapped for awhile, until I get enough parts lined up to send to Swain.
**Yes, yes I wrap back to front just because that is always how I have done it. I think it looks cleaner when looking in the engine bay.

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Old 01-18-2013, 01:36 PM   #69
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Well I finally decided that I'm staying 5x100 bcd. Or at very least I'm going to have the parts to go either bcd come springtime. In the past, on other cars I have had these made. It requires getting new hub units, taking them apart, sending them to a shop to machine the hubs, then I reassemble. Doable but a bunch of running all over the place and I do not have that kind of time anymore.
So LIC released these converted hub units. After a few emails with Noah I thought why not let's see if these save me some hassle for a "bit" of extra cost. >REVIEW<


Next on the list of to-do's is to get these STI struts stripped down and get the inserts off to Odi. Possibly look into stripping the strut housings and powdercoating too. Just not sure what color.....I'm boring and was probably going with industrial black. In the end I do not care what color they are just as long as the Dspecs are out.

FYI - I 'effing hate FedEX's policies. Their delivery is spot on, packaged arrive in good shape, and the drivers are friendly. It's FedEX's inflexability with the signature required. 'Eff them, you 'effers

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Old 02-28-2013, 08:23 PM   #70
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Strut inserts are being rebuilt. New ID1000 fuel injectors are in and a few other odds and ends. Once I get my garage back in the spring I should be ready to install some junk.
Now I just need to find a reputable powdercoater in the area that can apply wrinkle red, matte black, and silver. And find a Fozz to replace my dumb daily driver AT crap bucket.

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Old 02-28-2013, 10:22 PM   #71
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Enormous props for the effort and attention to detail. This thread is an amazing wealth of information.
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Old 03-01-2013, 12:02 PM   #72
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mechatricity View Post
Enormous props for the effort and attention to detail. This thread is an amazing wealth of information.
Thank you.

FEAL shipped my inserts back quickly, no stickers included to put on housings though The only way to tell that these inserts have been modified is FEAL fills the upper stem with black sealant. The stem where the nut holds the tophats in place, there is usually an internal hex so you can use an allen key while installing/removing that nut. Once I get the old yellow grease out of the housings, I'll have them powdercoated and install grease zerks.

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Old 03-26-2013, 09:59 AM   #73
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Wow. I can tell it has been awhile since I have had any parts powder coated. I bid out coating a few parts to three area coaters and one out of state coater. So far there is a significant swing in prep and coat quotes. This isn't rocket science were talking about here. Plus I plan to have a sizable amount of other coating done in the near future. This is sort of a compency test as well.

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Old 04-05-2013, 12:46 PM   #74
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Between family events, I was at very least able to work on one car realted project on Easter weekend. I have been meaning to get the AEM UEGO installed in the center console so I am ready come engine upgrade time. At first I wanted to graft it into the existing ashtray assembly and retain a useable lid. Hoping to cover the UEGO up when I get tired of the dumb flashing lights. I sort of looked at it and said PITA, so I ordered a SUBTLE plate. So it fits pretty good but I need to get the power socket back in there, the UEGO, maybe an AUX port, then get that powdercoated. In the end there is no lid over the UEGO. Ehhh, I waste a good deal of time, money, and frustration while I figure this stuff out.


So that weekend I figured what the heck, let's dremel the existing ashtray assembly and see what I can turn out. Eventhough I only have it roughed in there, it fits in there better than I expected. The lid still functions and looks non-modified when up. The UEGO does tilt slightly to the right due to the surfaces in the ashtray section. I could live with it since I'll mainly use it for datalogging but I may try to get it centered or tilted to the left. Compromise may win out out though. Now I just have to figure out what to fill in around the UEGO with. Some thin textured ABS panel maybe??? I was suggested to leave it as-is and may very well do just that. I'll graft the UEGO power into the same circuit my other meters are connected to.


I used the silver bezel during the fitting, will switch to the black bezel for final assembly.


Also dropped off some parts for powdercoating. I contacted 4 places, got 1 no response, and 1 absurd price quote. I tried a place closer to home to do some wrinkle red and some texture black. I was hoping the red was going to be a little darker to match better. We'll see what turns out. Honestly I'm having thoughts again about building an oven and doing this in-house from now on. Although I really want to avoid that option.

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Old 04-08-2013, 08:56 PM   #75
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I stopped by Fox Valley Sandblasting and Powder Coating today to pick up the parts. Ehh, all I can figure is that I must have lofty expectations. Or perhaps people are just generally do not care to do the best job possible but they will swear to you that they do. While these parts did not turn out "bad", there was a pricing misunderstanding which removed any sort of "consideration" I would have had in these are not absolutely perfect. Plus that valve cover has sentimental value (1st engine I ever swapped - one hell of a long time ago), I get it home to find an edge chipped off during their final finishing. That sort of twisted my balls the wrong way. The time to mask off the gasket surfaces for blasting was wasted when they got a bit careless with the abrasive wheel to remove the flashing. I would be re-cleaning everything but I do not expect to find all sorts of garbage in side the intake manifold. I would be floored if the domestic and motorcycle guys they do work for would accept this return condition. No pride I tell you.
(Corvel Robin Red Wrinkle and Black Fine Texture powder)


However I will say that Fox Valley did do a good job on the APS inlet tube. Slightly lighter color hue than the original APS red, but I knew that going in. APS's powder coating chips off so easily due to the piss-poor prep they do (or lack of) before coating them. Just need to put a polish on the APS tag and it is ready for install.


I think I will try a few other places as alternatives. I'm sure Fox Valley is fine for any future fence posts I need coated. Although I still would not hand them more of my money since it was pretty apparent that during the pickup I was not as important of a customer as I was lead to believe on the drop off day. Plus Corvel Robin Red is NOT UV stable (I contacted the powder mfg) I hate being lied to. If you do not fully understand what you are selling then simply say you do not know and you will find out the answer. So simple.

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