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Old 07-18-2019, 08:23 PM   #1
DubsChops
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Default $50.00 to the person that solves this PayPal. motor swap no crank!

quick recap. I bought a smashed 2010 sti with a built motor. I have started the smashed car and heard it run. the motor has the TVG and air injection removed

Then I bought a 2011 still that was running but had the motor removed upon purchase.

I now have the 2010 motor in the 2011.

I cannot for the life of me get the car to crank over. Also of note, the access port will not recognize the car.

Trouble shooting I have done based on my ability to google search,.

1. checked engine grounds. I have the bottom of the passenger rail connected to the exhaust heat shield. I have the bottom of the driver side frame rail connected to the valve cover bolt. the engine harness ground was never removed and still connected to the top of the intake passenger side. The starter has 12v power and the ground is connected there to the bell housing as well. I have also connected a ground from the top of the passenger rail to the bolt right beside the engine harness ground on the intake. the ground from the battery to passenger fender by fusebox is also hooked up

2. I have tried both Keyes that came with the car. Both Keyes will lock unlock the car but not get it to turn over.

3. I swapped the engine ECM with the red car just to see if anything would change. Still no crank.

possibly important details.
1. I can hear what I believe a started relay clicking
2. Accessport will not connect to the car to load the tune from the red car (I had the original tuner email me a file converted to the serial of the AP of the blue car for the new car)
3. starter will turn over if I jump the signal wire to 12v
4. I never hear the fuel pump turn on and prime the system
5.diff lock light and S light flashing when key on
6. lights dim when I try to crank and I hear the relay
7.I tried another battery from another vehicle with the same result.
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Old 07-18-2019, 08:30 PM   #2
2slofouru
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Hopefully you have the clutch switch hooked up at the pedal and on the trans end. The crappy thing is you never know what condition the ignition/immobilzer parts inside the vehicle are, unless you actually saw it running just before they removed the bad engine.

Does the immobilizer light on the dash flash? Some vehicles have to have the ecu programmed separately from the keyless, which is how I believe yours should work. The key can be programmed to the keyless module, even if the immobilizer setup isn't programmed to the engine ecu. I'm unsure whether or not that subaru will preven the starter from turning over if the immobilizer isn't programmed though.

Last edited by 2slofouru; 07-18-2019 at 08:59 PM.
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Old 07-20-2019, 10:37 AM   #3
Fozymandias
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Did you swap over the ignition barrel on the steering column as well - in some cases there’s a transponder in there that needs to recognize the chip in the key.
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Old 07-20-2019, 10:42 AM   #4
Fahrezz
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2slofouru View Post
Hopefully you have the clutch switch hooked up at the pedal and on the trans end. The crappy thing is you never know what condition the ignition/immobilzer parts inside the vehicle are, unless you actually saw it running just before they removed the bad engine.

Does the immobilizer light on the dash flash? Some vehicles have to have the ecu programmed separately from the keyless, which is how I believe yours should work. The key can be programmed to the keyless module, even if the immobilizer setup isn't programmed to the engine ecu. I'm unsure whether or not that subaru will preven the starter from turning over if the immobilizer isn't programmed though.
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Old 07-22-2019, 08:05 PM   #5
ascendr
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If you pull F/B Fuse 21 you should no longer hear the click that you believe is the Starter Relay. If you *do* still here the click then the click is not the starter relay and you should look at that fuse and clutch switch.

edit: it's not an immobilizer issue, if it was the car would crank but not start.

Last edited by ascendr; 07-22-2019 at 08:32 PM.
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Old 07-30-2019, 10:54 PM   #6
DubsChops
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this was solved by a FaceBook member. it was a fuse behind the glove box I had no idea about. thanks for all the help though.
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