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Old 12-22-2011, 02:52 PM   #6576
Bimmer2Subie
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ruzicka View Post
We had a foot of snow last night. The Yokohamas were not doing too well, so I took the car (delivered yesterday) to a local tire store chain and had them swapped for Conti DWSs. While not as good a dedicated snow tires, I do believe the snow traction/driveability is now better with the DWSs.
how much did that cost???
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Old 12-22-2011, 03:50 PM   #6577
53x12
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Originally Posted by ruzicka View Post
We had a foot of snow last night. The Yokohamas were not doing too well, so I took the car (delivered yesterday) to a local tire store chain and had them swapped for Conti DWSs. While not as good a dedicated snow tires, I do believe the snow traction/driveability is now better with the DWSs.
Sounds like a very wise decision.
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Old 12-22-2011, 04:14 PM   #6578
Amelia Bedelia
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I ordered a Camelia red Limited sedan with moonroof and NAV. It is finally here but can't get to the dealer until Saturday. Since I haven't test driven or even seen one in real life, I don't have any obligation. My husband and I will go test drive it, and I REALLY hope I like it, because I don't want to have to wait any longer.

My old car was totaled in an accident where we hydroplaned (husband was driving 65mph on the highway), and since then I am totally paranoid about driving in the rain. I drive a lot on highway and country roads. Does AWD make that big of a difference for rain? For those of you who have gotten your car already, how does it do in the rain? Thanks!
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Old 12-22-2011, 04:25 PM   #6579
bg18947
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AWD will help you with traction when you are moving or accelerating. It won't help with braking. Tires make all the difference with hydroplaning, as well as affecting traction and braking. Remember the term "where the rubber meets the road." I would suggest you review Tirerack to see what surveys show about different tires that fit your requirements. You need to decide what you expect to encounter and choose what fits your needs. I swear by a set of winter treads, and then swapping back to 3-season (all-season) tires for most of the year.

I remember driving in my Odyssey minivan at high speed on the highway, and the stock Michelin Symmetry started hydroplaning (they had plenty of tread). I eventually replaced them with with the Michelin HydroEdge, and it made a big difference. But, when the tires start to lose its deep grooves, it doesn't evacuate the water like it used to. But, the tread design still does a better job than the previous tires. They also helped a lot when cornering in the rain.

Last edited by bg18947; 12-22-2011 at 04:34 PM.
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Old 12-22-2011, 04:28 PM   #6580
53x12
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Originally Posted by Bimmer2Subie View Post
what exactly is the 1K down? cap cost reduction? initial payment?

mine was $1180 initial payment (fees + approx $150 cap cost reduction + 1st month)
$299/month (Nj tax included)
42 months 12K miles


'12 Impreza Limited Sedan sold @ $21,000 + $495 subaru warranty & $495 5yr tire&rim insurance

(free all weather mats, wheel locks & trunk tray)

Still doesn't make financial sense to me if you know you are keeping the car after the lease:

Finance Purchase

Invoice $20517
T/T/L: ~$2000
OTD: ~$22500
Down payment $4000
Loan amount $18500
Loan rate 1.49%/48
Monthly payment: ~$397.26
Loan amount over life of loan: $19068.26
Total expense over course of purchase: $19068.26 (loan) +$4000 (down payment)= $23,068.26


Lease to purhcase

Purchase price: $21000
Initial payment $1180 (incl 1st month)
$299/month lease for 42 months
Over 42 months lease pay $13,439
At end of lease buy back of $14,000 and change
Total expense over course: $13,439 (monthly lease payments) + $14000 (buy back)= $27,439

Looks like you are leaving at least $4,500 on the table. At the end of your 42 months you either need to pay $14k cash to get the car or take out an auto loan at that time to pay the remainder. Or you could have put the $4k down and paid an extra $100/month and owned it outright at the end of 48 months.
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Old 12-22-2011, 04:56 PM   #6581
Zeeper
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fyi for the person who wants a picture of a white sport you can build one on Subaru's main site and see the color with the sport alloy wheels.

Not much, but at least its sumpin!
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Old 12-22-2011, 05:10 PM   #6582
2subiesinyard
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So the wifie got her 2012 last night. Not to shabby. Its got no balls next to my WRX, but is does sip gas. Handles great. Better than the WRX when it was new.

The brakes are horrible. I'm going half way to the floor with each stop. It feels like they left some air in the master cylinder when they changed it out.

Can any of you folks chime in about new brake pedal feel. Every new car I've ever gotten has had great brakes when new. I feel as though I should be able to "big toe it" gently to get her to stop a "normal " stop. I don't think going 1/2 way to the floor is ok.

Its going back to the dealer next week to have them peek at it.

I have an extra set of 09 WRX brakes kicking around ....11.4 dia rotors vs the stock 10.6. hmmmm
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Old 12-22-2011, 05:13 PM   #6583
2subiesinyard
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oh by the way....the dealer took our picture for a calender. Can't wait to see it. Me throwing up a shocker and the wife looking like....
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Old 12-22-2011, 05:21 PM   #6584
Benchmark
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2subiesinyard View Post
So the wifie got her 2012 last night. Not to shabby. Its got no balls next to my WRX, but is does sip gas. Handles great. Better than the WRX when it was new.

The brakes are horrible. I'm going half way to the floor with each stop. It feels like they left some air in the master cylinder when they changed it out.

Can any of you folks chime in about new brake pedal feel. Every new car I've ever gotten has had great brakes when new. I feel as though I should be able to "big toe it" gently to get her to stop a "normal " stop. I don't think going 1/2 way to the floor is ok.

Its going back to the dealer next week to have them peek at it.

I have an extra set of 09 WRX brakes kicking around ....11.4 dia rotors vs the stock 10.6. hmmmm
My brakes felt excellent.
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Old 12-22-2011, 05:32 PM   #6585
G-Omaha
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BL2

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Just got a phone call that my car has arrived at the dealership. I'll take a look at it tomorrow and then do the paperwork and pick it up on Wednesday the 28th. Happy Happy......
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Old 12-22-2011, 05:50 PM   #6586
Zeeper
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2subiesinyard View Post
So the wifie got her 2012 last night. Not to shabby. Its got no balls next to my WRX, but is does sip gas. Handles great. Better than the WRX when it was new.

The brakes are horrible. I'm going half way to the floor with each stop. It feels like they left some air in the master cylinder when they changed it out.

Can any of you folks chime in about new brake pedal feel. Every new car I've ever gotten has had great brakes when new. I feel as though I should be able to "big toe it" gently to get her to stop a "normal " stop. I don't think going 1/2 way to the floor is ok.

Its going back to the dealer next week to have them peek at it.

I have an extra set of 09 WRX brakes kicking around ....11.4 dia rotors vs the stock 10.6. hmmmm
Excessive brake pedal travel was the specific reason for the master cylinder recall. Why not call the dealer tomorrow and tell them there is a problem -- I wouldn't feel comfortable having my wife tooling around in an impreza with the brake pedal issue unresolved.
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Old 12-22-2011, 05:57 PM   #6587
C.H.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Amelia Bedelia View Post
I ordered a Camelia red Limited sedan with moonroof and NAV. It is finally here but can't get to the dealer until Saturday. Since I haven't test driven or even seen one in real life, I don't have any obligation. My husband and I will go test drive it, and I REALLY hope I like it, because I don't want to have to wait any longer.

My old car was totaled in an accident where we hydroplaned (husband was driving 65mph on the highway), and since then I am totally paranoid about driving in the rain. I drive a lot on highway and country roads. Does AWD make that big of a difference for rain? For those of you who have gotten your car already, how does it do in the rain? Thanks!
About ten years ago I was driving home late at night during a torrential downpour and watched a car in front of me hydroplane and spin around 180 degrees on the highway, it was surreal. The driver must have thought it was sunny and dry outside because he flew right past me and was going at least 60 mph. I was only going about 35 mph because there was so much rain hitting my car's windshield I couldn't see much even with the wipers on high. Needless to say I made it home safe and sound in a front wheel drive Camry. I don't think AWD will make a difference, especially if your tires are worn, the tires should have plenty of tread to allow water to escape, maybe rain tires like Michelin HydroEdge might make a difference but they're probably not that great for dry conditions. My two cents.
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Old 12-22-2011, 06:09 PM   #6588
ALafya
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ruzicka View Post
We had a foot of snow last night. The Yokohamas were not doing too well, so I took the car (delivered yesterday) to a local tire store chain and had them swapped for Conti DWSs. While not as good a dedicated snow tires, I do believe the snow traction/driveability is now better with the DWSs.
Could you get a credit for the Yokohamas?
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Old 12-22-2011, 06:16 PM   #6589
2subiesinyard
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Benchmark View Post
My brakes felt excellent.
Thanks

Quote:
Originally Posted by Zeeper View Post
Excessive brake pedal travel was the specific reason for the master cylinder recall. Why not call the dealer tomorrow and tell them there is a problem -- I wouldn't feel comfortable having my wife tooling around in an impreza with the brake pedal issue unresolved.
Don't think I'll have to...Took it for another ride when she got home just a few minutes ago. Bedded the brakes in a little. They seem to work much better now. I think thats all they needed was a little bedding in. The pedal is still a little soft, so I'll keep an eye on it.
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Old 12-22-2011, 06:21 PM   #6590
ALafya
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Amelia Bedelia View Post
I ordered a Camelia red Limited sedan with moonroof and NAV. It is finally here but can't get to the dealer until Saturday. Since I haven't test driven or even seen one in real life, I don't have any obligation. My husband and I will go test drive it, and I REALLY hope I like it, because I don't want to have to wait any longer.

My old car was totaled in an accident where we hydroplaned (husband was driving 65mph on the highway), and since then I am totally paranoid about driving in the rain. I drive a lot on highway and country roads. Does AWD make that big of a difference for rain? For those of you who have gotten your car already, how does it do in the rain? Thanks!
AWD makes a difference, though not that big as you might think.
A vehicle which gets torque to all wheels *all the time* is less prone to understeer associated with FWD, or oversteer associated with RWD.
However, Subarus do understeer.
You'll be wise to invest in good tires, with excellent 'wet' performance, they are much more important than AWD.

You'll also be wise to understand reasons why you can get to hydroplane situation and avoid them in the first place, e.g. no abrupt wheel turning, taking turns slower, etc.

There are some YouTube videos, mostly made for Subaru PR, that show this:

On demand or real-time AWD/4WD is not the same as Subaru's AWD.
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Old 12-22-2011, 06:25 PM   #6591
coelement520
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grey

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A local dealer got a demo model in so i went and test drove it earlier. I ended up putting a deposit on a red sport premium hatch with a stick that is expected in on jan 18th. Much better build quality then my 08, especially the interior, the one i drove had the leather interior and it was nice.
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Old 12-22-2011, 06:27 PM   #6592
bg18947
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2008 Infiniti G35xS

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I think the brakes are fairly smooth and even (good modulation), especially compared to my 00 Legacy which was known for spongy brakes. Some cars have overly sensitive brakes which can have its drawbacks. I always had problems when I switched cars going from a car with firm brakes to that Legacy. Changing to a different brand of brake pads didn't help in the Legacy (tried Akebono and Hawks made no difference).
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Old 12-22-2011, 06:40 PM   #6593
SleepNMnky
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2subiesinyard
So the wifie got her 2012 last night. Not to shabby. Its got no balls next to my WRX, but is does sip gas. Handles great. Better than the WRX when it was new.

The brakes are horrible. I'm going half way to the floor with each stop. It feels like they left some air in the master cylinder when they changed it out.

Can any of you folks chime in about new brake pedal feel. Every new car I've ever gotten has had great brakes when new. I feel as though I should be able to "big toe it" gently to get her to stop a "normal " stop. I don't think going 1/2 way to the floor is ok.

Its going back to the dealer next week to have them peek at it.

I have an extra set of 09 WRX brakes kicking around ....11.4 dia rotors vs the stock 10.6. hmmmm
My brakes feel very tight, I could easily "big toe it". I'd bring it back ASAP.
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Old 12-22-2011, 06:42 PM   #6594
imprzya
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Quote:
Originally Posted by G-Omaha View Post
Just got a phone call that my car has arrived at the dealership. I'll take a look at it tomorrow and then do the paperwork and pick it up on Wednesday the 28th. Happy Happy......

Congrats! Earlier than expected right? Take a pic of it, i haven't seen the gray on black yet!
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Old 12-22-2011, 07:15 PM   #6595
Furiousd1983
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Finally got to drive a manual today! Car seems very peppy for only 148hp. One thing I didn't like was the ipod integration on the non-nav unit (unfortunately the unit that my car will come with. The setup on the nav system was pretty easy to follow. On this one it automatically connected to Pandora since that was the last thing played on my Ipod apparently. There seemed to be no way to tell it to change to itunes from the car controls. Finally just disconnected and started Itunes and then reconnected. That was really the only negative I could find in driving the car for 15 minutes. Can't wait for mine to show up at somepoint!
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Old 12-22-2011, 07:28 PM   #6596
Jumpem
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Originally Posted by 53x12 View Post
At the end of your 42 months you either need to pay $14k cash to get the car or take out an auto loan at that time to pay the remainder. Or you could have put the $4k down and paid an extra $100/month and owned it outright at the end of 48 months.
Don't you usually just turn the car in at the end of the lease, and move on to something else?
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Old 12-22-2011, 08:30 PM   #6597
53x12
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Originally Posted by Jumpem View Post
Don't you usually just turn the car in at the end of the lease, and move on to something else?
Sure some people do. The poster I was quoting was going to keep the car after the lease at which point it makes more sense to finance if you know this ahead of time.
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Old 12-22-2011, 08:40 PM   #6598
ruzicka
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bimmer2Subie View Post
how much did that cost???
Unfortunately, I was only able to get a $45 credit per Yokohama. So the total, after everything was added in (road hazard insurance, etc) was about $500. I figured it was a good investment though. Part of the reason I wanted this Subie was because my two daughters about almost at driving age, and knowing that they'll be using this car, I wanted something as safe as possible...including extra good tires.
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Old 12-22-2011, 08:41 PM   #6599
bg18947
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2008 Infiniti G35xS

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Since it was such a comfortable today in the NYC area, I decided to mount my Catz MSX lights. There are 4 bolts and 6 pins holding the undercover shield on. That part was easy. The impact bar is made of high-strength steel and I needed to take out the Milwaukee drill and new bit to make it easy. My cordless and old bit didn't cut it. I mounted the brackets, centered them, and then aligned the lamps in place. Most of the wiring is easy (but I'll get to the difficult part). I took my X-acto knife and stabbed the oval diamond rubber piece in the firewall and ran the wires through it. Next, I had to figure out how to best mount the switch. The panel where the dimmer and fog light switch are mounted comes off fairly easy as well as the fuse door. There was a lot of trial and error. Initially. I thought about cutting a rectangular hole through the imprint on the upper left and ended up with a bunch of drill holes (I'll replace the whole panel when it comes up for sale on Ebay in the future after a wreck). After figuring that this was kind of difficult without a good dremel cutter and trying some other things, I noticed that the dummy convex cover next to the dimmer dial was about the same size as the
Catz switch. I popped out the cover and popped in the switch. With the exception of about just over a 1/32" gap, it is a perfect fit. Much better than the swiss cheese I made of the other location.

I put the wires in a loom and started to assemble things back together. I chose to try to tap the high-beam/DRL wire for the power to the switch. Well, either I didn't tap into it correctly, or it doesn't work. I did see power on the switch LED, but the lights did not come on. I know all my grounds are good for sure (since I chose the engine ground on the bottom of the front fender and to the battery) and the lamp power wire is hooked directly to the battery terminal as well. I checked the fuse and it is intact. It's the orange switch wire that seems to be the issue. Theoretically, if I see power to the LED light up, I should be good to go, but I didn't see the lights come on when I put the car into drive and hit the switch. I'm supposed to tap off the parking light, but that looks like a bitch to get to. I may open up the foglight undercover to see if I can tap off of that cable. Otherwise, it's easy. I can't wait until I get my hands on the service manual, so I don't have to do so much trial and error.
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Old 12-22-2011, 08:44 PM   #6600
Bimmer2Subie
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 53x12 View Post
Still doesn't make financial sense to me if you know you are keeping the car after the lease:

Finance Purchase

Invoice $20517
T/T/L: ~$2000
OTD: ~$22500
Down payment $4000
Loan amount $18500
Loan rate 1.49%/48
Monthly payment: ~$397.26
Loan amount over life of loan: $19068.26
Total expense over course of purchase: $19068.26 (loan) +$4000 (down payment)= $23,068.26


Lease to purhcase

Purchase price: $21000
Initial payment $1180 (incl 1st month)
$299/month lease for 42 months
Over 42 months lease pay $13,439
At end of lease buy back of $14,000 and change
Total expense over course: $13,439 (monthly lease payments) + $14000 (buy back)= $27,439

Looks like you are leaving at least $4,500 on the table. At the end of your 42 months you either need to pay $14k cash to get the car or take out an auto loan at that time to pay the remainder. Or you could have put the $4k down and paid an extra $100/month and owned it outright at the end of 48 months.
WoW -

looking at the actual agreement,
after number crunching the Lease Vs. Finance... i will end up paying $2,825 MORE if i decide to buy out the car after the 42 month lease. the money factor must have been very high.

unfortunately i couldn't do this number crunching on a laptop as i was sitting with the finance guy. if interest rates are still low, i will probably end up buying out the car much earlier
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