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Old 07-25-2011, 12:05 PM   #1
kornfeld
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Default AEM UEGO Install/Review

I finally installed a wideband O2 sensor in my car late last week and figured I'd put up a quick review. I was debating between an Innovate LC-1, an Innovate MTX-L, and an AEM UEGO.

I was going between these three because I needed it to connect with RomRaider for datalogging, and these three can all do that. I decided to go with the AEM UEGO after reading a bunch online for three reasons: I read a bunch of complaints about Innovate reliability, I read a bunch of complaints about Innovate having garbage customer service, and finally, because I read a bunch of glowing reviews about aemonly.com's customer service. Yes, there are bad reviews and good reviews about pretty much everything, but there were a few too many bad ones about Innovate and plenty of good ones about AEM.

And I can verify that aemonly.com's customer service was great...I called and emailed a few times with questions as I was researching and then when I was installing, and they were super friendly and knowledgeable.

The install went smoothly, and the instructions were well written. I also followed these two videos that aemonly.com put out:

(Note: these videos have disappeared unfortunately... They aren't mine, and I don't have copies! Bummer.)


(The second video isn't for the same gauge I bought, but the video is still helpful in regard to wiring. You'll also notice they have a sweet coupon code showing at the bottom of that video!)

Here's where I put the sensor in the downpipe:





I wish it ended up a little further from what I think is an A/C line coming out of the firewall (which is my fault), but I think it'll be fine. As for wiring, I wired it into the clock for all power stuff, and the wiring is explained in the video.

Now that it's up and running, it works great! It responds crazy fast. The display also has a light sensor above the numeric display that allows the gauge to auto dim and brighten depending on how bright it is outside:


Anyhow...I highly recommend it.
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Last edited by kornfeld; 04-21-2014 at 08:41 AM.
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Old 07-25-2011, 12:12 PM   #2
Phatron
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agreed.

I used to recommend the LC-1 but after going through a bunch of them and innovate doing nothing but blaming the wiring, grounds, etc i switched over to AEM.

So much easier to wire. No calibrations necessary.

win win.

the lc-1 can lick my ballz
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Old 07-27-2011, 12:18 AM   #3
nevin95 LSi
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I also love my AEM's. I have them on two of my cars. I can echo the ease of installation. I recommend them to everyone who asks me.
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Old 07-27-2011, 02:13 AM   #4
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Dang, is LC-1 that bad? Is it the sensors that goes out or the unit itself?
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Old 07-27-2011, 02:15 AM   #5
nevin95 LSi
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It's not that the LC-1 is bad. It's just that the AEM is just so easy to setup, user-friendly, as well as a decent price.
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Old 07-27-2011, 11:00 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by samo22 View Post
Dang, is LC-1 that bad? Is it the sensors that goes out or the unit itself?
go read all the problems on innovate's forum

and i have personally gone through 3-4 controllers....
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Old 07-27-2011, 11:58 AM   #7
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I was in the same boat trying to make this decision. I went with the LC-1. Mine has lasted quite a while and works flawless, but I've read others like Ron who go thru a few controllers. Hooking up the LC-1 is not hard if you know electronics/schematics. I liked how easy it was to log as well, trouble free!! At least until the controller goes out lol
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Old 07-27-2011, 12:04 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wgr73 View Post
I liked how easy it was to log as well, trouble free!!
from my experience...you're in the minority.

all the people i etune with lc-1's have problems.

hooking up the lc-1 logging either shuts down their RR or blue screens windows, or somehow switches the LC-1 from the gasoline setting to some other setting like methanol. And i have had all those problems a gazillion times in both my cars.

lots of issues.

The uego has never done any of that.
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Old 07-27-2011, 12:09 PM   #9
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AEM - so much easier to set up / no cal needed.
Easy to log.
Nicer gauge to.
FTW
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Old 07-27-2011, 02:29 PM   #10
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I'm trying to use the 12v ignition switch wire straight from the ignition wire under the driverside dash and found a wire that is 0v when key is off, 12v on but engine off, and around 13-14v when the engine is running. Turning on headlights doesn't have affects.

It says 12v ignition switch, but it is normal for the wire to see up to 14 volts when the car is running, right? I wish I could pull power from the clock, but mine is an old gc8 dash and has no clock.
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Old 07-27-2011, 03:02 PM   #11
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Sounds like you have a wire that will work fine. The alternator puts out around 14v when the car is running, so that's why that wire sees 14v as well. Unless it has some type of voltage regulator on it, any wire connected to the battery directly or indirectly (like through a relay) will see 14v when the car is runningl.
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Old 07-28-2011, 01:05 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Phatron View Post
from my experience...you're in the minority.

all the people i etune with lc-1's have problems.

hooking up the lc-1 logging either shuts down their RR or blue screens windows, or somehow switches the LC-1 from the gasoline setting to some other setting like methanol. And i have had all those problems a gazillion times in both my cars.

lots of issues.

The uego has never done any of that.
Dayam son! I guess I'm in the minority as well. LC-1 been good to me since 2008. Only issue I had was it switched to a methanol setting once, and it was because the serial connector came loose while I was logging.

I guess AEM is the way to go these days...
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Old 07-28-2011, 09:43 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Phatron View Post
from my experience...you're in the minority.

all the people i etune with lc-1's have problems.

hooking up the lc-1 logging either shuts down their RR or blue screens windows, or somehow switches the LC-1 from the gasoline setting to some other setting like methanol. And i have had all those problems a gazillion times in both my cars.

lots of issues.

The uego has never done any of that.
Wow crazy. From what I've been reading as far as people having problems, the ground is likely the culprit. I think that the controller is seeing voltage even current spikes and that is causing the issues.

Maybe the uego is less sensitive to spikes, idk, but it does seem like people are having better success with those.
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Old 07-28-2011, 11:16 AM   #14
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I did extensive research myself on this very debate. I had an AEM in my SRT-4 and it worked well (at least I assume it did, never got a chance to properly dyno it before it was totaled T^T) but I wanted to see what else was out there for the WRX. Contrary to the OP, my research led me to purchase the LC-1 this time around. It also helped that I managed to snag it for the same price as the AEM w/ some gift cards I got. I have yet to install it as I'm still up in the air as to what's going on with my car, but I think after reading this I might have to do some additional research.
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Old 07-28-2011, 11:32 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wgr73 View Post
From what I've been reading as far as people having problems, the ground is likely the culprit.
thats what innovate tries to tell everyone. My neighbor (a nuclear engineer and the smartest guy i know) grounded the damn thing everyway possible. Innovate wouldnt accept that their controller arrived in non-working order.

I had another controller (bnib) sitting here and that one wouldnt work either.

They finally warrantied them and shipped out replacements....and tada they both worked grounded anywhere.

"its grounded wrong" is their blanket response to everyone.
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Old 07-28-2011, 03:59 PM   #16
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I bought one, installed it, fault found it, de installed it within 6 hours, had a DOA controller, took back to Vendor in original packaging and was told to send to Innovate for warranty. SUX, refund please.


This puts the lotion in the basket and dosnt get the hose.
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Old 07-29-2011, 09:07 AM   #17
wgr73
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Phatron View Post
thats what innovate tries to tell everyone. My neighbor (a nuclear engineer and the smartest guy i know) grounded the damn thing everyway possible. Innovate wouldnt accept that their controller arrived in non-working order.

I had another controller (bnib) sitting here and that one wouldnt work either.

They finally warrantied them and shipped out replacements....and tada they both worked grounded anywhere.

"its grounded wrong" is their blanket response to everyone.
Gotcha. That's stupid. If I ever get another WB I may end up getting an AEM just to mess around with it. The LC-1 is nice, but I wouldn't mind having a colorful moving bezel either!
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Old 07-29-2011, 09:17 AM   #18
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u could try the innovate mtx-L....its basically their copy of the uego
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Old 07-31-2011, 03:33 AM   #19
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Picked one up last night, have the serial output and serial to usb cable coming, hopefully be here by tuesday or wednesday, hoping to install the gauge monday, gotta figure out where its being mounted though. My friend has one in his GTI but its the analog gauge, still works perfectly and it was easy to install.
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Old 07-31-2011, 09:32 AM   #20
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AEM's installation instructions say to keep the sensor 36" away from the exhaust port on turbocharged applications, so the sensor won't burn up so quick. I figured that if the stock rear o2 location was good enough for subaru, it was good enough for me. So I took off my downpipe and drilled a hole just a couple inches away from the rear o2 sensor, then welded the bung there and mounted it up. Then I ran the cable from the thing through the grommet right in front of the clutch pedal. I guess maybe 02s and 04s are different, but I've never had an easier WB install than on this car. Get some zip ties to secure the sheathing underneath the car and you're good to go.

Run power from a 10a fuse, get a good ground, and you're golden.
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Old 07-31-2011, 11:48 PM   #21
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^thanks for the idea. I had been toying with removing the factory heat shield from the stock downpipe and having it welded into the top like the OP but I can just have the shop I take it to tomorrow do it right next to the stock O2 and save myself a lot of hassle.
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Old 08-01-2011, 01:04 AM   #22
nevin95 LSi
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Yeah, it's kinda on the other "side" of the pipe, and it's behind it a few inches, but it's not hard to do at all.

If you're looking at the exhaust from the back of the car looking forward and you think of the exhaust pipe as a clock, I would say the stock sensor points to the passenger side at about 1 o'clock. The one I welded in would be at 11 o'clock pointing to the driver's side. Lots of room though, and not even as close to the driveshaft as the stock sensor. Easy peasy.
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Old 08-01-2011, 01:09 AM   #23
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Now my question is won't the readings be off though, since the exhaust will have already passed through the first catalytic converter by the time it gets there?
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Old 08-01-2011, 01:50 AM   #24
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Yes they will be off, you will be leaner on gauge then you actually are running. I usually just target my AFR regardless TBH, pre or post cat placement.
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Old 08-01-2011, 12:17 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Phatron View Post
u could try the innovate mtx-L....its basically their copy of the uego
That's an idea. Hopefully the time will never come when I'd have to get another one!
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