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Old 02-21-2012, 01:25 PM   #151
aboothman
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KNS Brakes (a vendor here) told me that they will be announcing a time sert service in the near future...
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Old 02-21-2012, 11:21 PM   #152
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vision.dynamix View Post
IMO, retapping it the same size is compromising safety for the sake of a couple bucks and some work.
meh...no big deal if he did it right and re-installed the bolt properly
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Old 02-23-2016, 09:45 AM   #153
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Just broke a bolt in my rear caliper last night. Not looking forward to doing the repair. Mostly not looking forward to bleeding the brakes after I get it fixed.
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Old 02-23-2016, 10:30 AM   #154
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While difficult, you can actually get it done without breaking open the brake lines. If you unbolt the brake line from the strut, you might be able to get the caliper on the ground so you can drill it out and tap it for the helicoil.



This is the only picture of the process I have. In it, I am definitely really excited and not giving my caliper the finger.
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Old 02-24-2016, 09:10 AM   #155
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Originally Posted by JiveMasterT View Post
While difficult, you can actually get it done without breaking open the brake lines. If you unbolt the brake line from the strut, you might be able to get the caliper on the ground so you can drill it out and tap it for the helicoil.



This is the only picture of the process I have. In it, I am definitely really excited and not giving my caliper the finger.
Well, as exciting as that sounds, my brake system could use a good fluid flush. My dad has a drill press also, which will make the drilling easier. What year is yours? Was it '08+ that they went to black?
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Old 02-24-2016, 09:11 AM   #156
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Also, for anyone wondering. The front bolts are M12x1.50 pitch... The rear are M10x1.50 pitch. Don't be a goober and order the wrong helicoil kit like I did. And the wrong drill bits to drill the bolt and drill for the helicoil tap. Like I did.... Cause that's gooberish.
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Old 02-24-2016, 10:49 AM   #157
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Originally Posted by ilarson007 View Post
Well, as exciting as that sounds, my brake system could use a good fluid flush. My dad has a drill press also, which will make the drilling easier. What year is yours? Was it '08+ that they went to black?
Mine is currently a 2011 STI but I had to do the same thing on the rear of my 2007 STI. That was actually a little more difficult and I wound up taking it off the car but ultimately did most of the work with a hand drill. I bled the brakes afterwards with a Mity Vac. In retrospect, if you have a second set of feet, I would just have someone pump the brakes when doing the bleed.
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Old 03-15-2016, 04:07 PM   #158
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Originally Posted by aboothman View Post
KNS Brakes (a vendor here) told me that they will be announcing a time sert service in the near future...
So glad you posted this here! Had this issue with one of my 2015 STI calipers and need a fix that doesn't cost $1k+. Getting KNS to help out! Thanks again for posting this!!
Subaru basically said F$(# you and told me they wouldn't help out with the problem under warranty. only 32k miles.
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Old 03-16-2016, 08:38 AM   #159
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So I have a 09 (70K miles). The front rotors were replaced about 18months ago by a shop. The rear calipers have never been removed as far as I know.

After some research on how common this issue is. I'm pretty convinced this is going to happen if I tried to remove the calipers (daily driver, but salty winters). Given the amount of effort required to fix, I rather just bring it to a shop and have them deal with it.

That said - do shops do anything different to avoid this? Or would they just potentially strip/snap the bolt, tell me, and then I'd have to pay them to repair? Or would they even just refuse the work because of this potential?
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Old 03-17-2016, 07:50 AM   #160
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Quote:
Originally Posted by macroy View Post
So I have a 09 (70K miles). The front rotors were replaced about 18months ago by a shop. The rear calipers have never been removed as far as I know.

After some research on how common this issue is. I'm pretty convinced this is going to happen if I tried to remove the calipers (daily driver, but salty winters). Given the amount of effort required to fix, I rather just bring it to a shop and have them deal with it.

That said - do shops do anything different to avoid this? Or would they just potentially strip/snap the bolt, tell me, and then I'd have to pay them to repair? Or would they even just refuse the work because of this potential?
Unless the shop was familiar with the issue (or you prepared them) they would find out once the tech showed the bolt full of AL threads to the boss who would scratch his head, curse and then call you as you would now be the car taking up lift space. Not great for anyone.

PB before hand might help but steel on AL = corrosion which binds the threads and leads to the failure. Clean bolt threads well prior to re-install. Although I doubt it's recommended if I ran in winter I would use anti-seize on the bolts.

Time certs are better than heli-coils but both will work.

I would call ahead and talk to a shop if you are concerned.
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Old 07-29-2016, 01:11 PM   #161
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Wow just read this entire thread...and am now scared to touch my calipers or ever try and remove them! I just brembos installed on my Forester about 1 year ago on my Forester....not sure if they used anti-seize on the bolts during install...do you think it's worth uninstalling the calipers to apply anti-seize??
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Old 07-29-2016, 01:35 PM   #162
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Originally Posted by Wangta View Post
Wow just read this entire thread...and am now scared to touch my calipers or ever try and remove them! I just brembos installed on my Forester about 1 year ago on my Forester....not sure if they used anti-seize on the bolts during install...do you think it's worth uninstalling the calipers to apply anti-seize??
Yes. You could just take one bolt out at a time, so you're not entirely removing the caliper. They really shouldn't move between having one bolt in and having the brake pads in. A lot of the time it's hard to get them to move if the pads are still in.
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Old 09-06-2016, 11:59 PM   #163
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would stainless steel bolts help with this issue?
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Old 09-07-2016, 12:14 PM   #164
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Originally Posted by JiveMasterT View Post
I bled the brakes afterwards with a Mity Vac. In retrospect, if you have a second set of feet, I would just have someone pump the brakes when doing the bleed.
MityVaC sucks! no matter what I did the hose on the bleeder would leak air stupid air bubbles while vacuuming bleeding...F that...I gave up and just had my wife step on the brake pedal to bleed the 4 rears.
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Old 09-07-2016, 12:19 PM   #165
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would stainless steel bolts help with this issue?
Antiseize. Not sure about SS. I know the issue is caused because of a steel bolt into an aluminum caliper. It creates this mega corrosion, and the metals essentially fuse together.
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Old 10-03-2017, 02:49 AM   #166
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I just had my rear driver side top bolt snap on my rear brembo... so pissed.

All other bolts appears to be TIGHT but I am spraying them with Kroil and they are slowly moving out. *EDIT/ Driver side bottom bolt is fused to caliper. My impact didn't even budge it. I had to use my 3' long breaker bar to snap the bolt, or else I wouldn't have been able to remove the caliper. I plan to replace with all new bolts and use antisieze.

As for the rear caliper bolt what helicoil kit and drill bits are people using. IE: What is the best brand to go with. I am going to be pissed if I have to pay $600 for a new rear caliper so wanted to try the helicoil first if at all possible.

The bolt snapped and there are only like 2 threads showing. I took the caliper off and flipped it and have kroil soaking in the bolt hole on the other side hoping it eventually creeps through and I can take vice grips and slowly get the bolt out. I'm not hopeful but since this isn't my dd I can afford to have it soaking for a week while the new bolts are on order.

Car is an 05' STi never had it's calipers off until now. 84,000 miles and has had one previous pad change.

YAY for Subaru and Brembos!








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Last edited by NewShockerGuy; 10-03-2017 at 11:06 PM.
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Old 09-16-2019, 01:16 PM   #167
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I just parted out my '04 STI and fell victim to this as well... I design and build submersible vehicles with some aluminum components and stainless hardware so dissimilar metal corrosion is a constant battle. I am amazed Subaru didn't use anti-seize from the factory...

Over the years there has been some good info in this thread. But I want to voice my opinion agianst the guys who say anti-seize will make the bolts come loose easier. It doesn't work that way. However, if you don't believe me and are still scared to use an anti-seize. Loctite thread locker functions as an anti-seize as well as a thread locker so booger up those bolts before you put them back in!

I like to use US Safety Systems Tef-Gel.This stuff WORKS. At least in the case of preventing galvanic corrosion in the presence of electrolyte and continuous wet/dry cycling. I can't speak much for Tef-Gel's heat resistance but I would bet it wouldn't burn off. I have it on the spark plug threads of the aluminum head Chevy V8 in my Jeep. If you are really concerned about heat resistance then you can use the classic Permatex silver anti-seize. Even though it contains graphite I have never had a problem using it on aluminum. Permatex also makes an anti-seize that only contains copper but copper alloys and aluminum don't play nice either. Since Tef-Gel is Teflon based you don't have these problems.

Living in NY on the coast I use anti-seize on EVERYTHING I reassemble. The salt is literally int he air... For example, I use a very thin film where the rotors contact the hubs and on the centering rings of the wheels. Just not too much otherwise it could fling around and get on the rotor surface or just make a mess on your wheels. Don't forget about the wheel studs too. I learned this the hard way as a kid as I regularly replaced wheel studs on my old truck. Just don't drop your sticky, anti-seize filled lug nuts in the dirt... That dirt stuck in the threads really likes to mung up the works.

Super old thread but I was using copper antiseize on my brembo bolts because last time they had to be drilled and re-threaded... After doing more research also found out what you said about copper and aluminium not playing nice.

Going to be picking up the Tef-Gel this week. Taking off the caliper bolts, cleaning all the copper antiseize off and redoing.

The boat and marine guys SWEAR by Tef-Gel. Since boats are in a way harsher environment and they have many steal fasteners going into aluminum, figure they can't be wrong.

-Nigel
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Old 09-16-2019, 01:41 PM   #168
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I used regular anti-seize in like 2009 or 2010 as I had to helicoil a caliper... 8 years later, it all came apart just fine.
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