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Old 04-27-2009, 11:43 PM   #151
2slofouru
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Well I have an update that will probably get more replies than my progress has so far, lol. I'm wondering what this noise is and why its been there since the first start and hasn't gotten louder. Crank was checked and polished by a machine shop and new bearings were in spec. Here's a vid for all of the ej20k haters. For some reason it sounds way louder on video than in person:




I'm going to pull the timing covers and check with them off to see if it could be from something in there but everything is new so its doubtful. It sounds kind of like lifters with too much clearance but a hair lower pitch. A friend at work thinks its bottom end so now I'm worried. Looks like I might be riding the bike to work for quite a while now.
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Old 04-29-2009, 09:28 PM   #152
2slofouru
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I've done several hard pulls and the Power FC shows knock as practically non existent. The noise hasn't changed as far as I can tell. How long does it take a spun bearing to become obvious.. really loud? Also, while running the power FC there is a slight hesitation when revving it a little from idle, right at the beginning of rpm increase. It runs fine throughout the rest of the rpm range.
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Old 05-01-2009, 07:30 PM   #153
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What model of Power FC do you have... I was looking for one for my EJ20K, and was unsure which to buy.

Looks like a fun build...At the very least reliable!

thanks,
Stephen
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Old 05-01-2009, 07:57 PM   #154
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wishicoulddrift View Post
What model of Power FC do you have... I was looking for one for my EJ20K, and was unsure which to buy.

Looks like a fun build...At the very least reliable!

thanks,
Stephen

I believe its 414AF005, it also has GC/GF8 D-E printed on the sticker.

I hope its fairly reliable... just have to find the source of the noise before I go crazy. The lack of responses to my question actually surprises me, lol. I would expect someone coming in and dumping on my k for one reason or another. I'm hoping to change the valve cover gaskets and pull the timing cover to check around after work tomorrow, short work day luckily.
Its been SO fun driving though and if something happens to a rod bearing I'll swap in a phase 2 crankshaft and get new pistons and rods to match.
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Old 05-01-2009, 08:43 PM   #155
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Its hard to distinguish exactly what's causing the sound from the video. Maybe it's the a/c line under the dog bone rattling...Maybe
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Old 05-01-2009, 09:31 PM   #156
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ckcadavona View Post
Its hard to distinguish exactly what's causing the sound from the video. Maybe it's the a/c line under the dog bone rattling...Maybe

Thanks for the suggestion but I wrapped the line with rubber hose so its doubtful. Would have been a good guess though.
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Old 05-02-2009, 12:13 AM   #157
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Looking Good...I'm looking forward to doing one myself
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Old 05-02-2009, 08:04 PM   #158
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Got the gaskets changed almost two hours ago. I'm trying to let it dry for a couple of hours. I really think the valve cover/head design on this model is the crappiest design ever. The head slopes towards the valve cover so whatever you do oil keeps seeping fom above and going over the lip. I cleaned the heck out of everything, so much that the cams were dry and had to grease them.... and oil was still seeping out of the lifter buckets. If this crap keeps leaking I'm going to pay Subaru to do it next time. I used the toyota black gasket maker on the half circles and the corners of the cam caps. I also put a thin strip of it along the bottom, but that probably won't matter since oil kept coating it. Hopefully the subaru gaskets are tighter and won't need the sealant. They did look a little thicker but that could just be because they haven't been compressed and heat cycled yet. I'm crossing my fingers it won't leak.. AGAIN.

Also found some crappy yet good news.

This:


and this:


That might explain why its been running weird the last couple of days, maybe the clutch wasn't actually slipping. Either way, PVC FTMFL! I can't WAIT until my new silicone hoses come in. Hopefully they're tighter as well.
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Old 05-14-2009, 10:21 PM   #159
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Checked compression today. 2-130, 4-130, 1-150, 3-145. I'm wondering if 2 and 4 were higher because the maf was not connected to the intake when I was testing them. Also, when testing 2 it went to 130 at first. After revving a little it wouldn't go over 60.???? Then after relieving pressure on the gauge and just starting and idling normally it went back to 130. ???? I'm really starting to wonder about the head surfacing job the shop did, whether he shaved too much off on one head or too much on both and caused me to bend valves. I'll have to take the cam covers off tomorrow evening to check cam and crank alignment again, but it was ok last time. Wish SOMEONE could tell what the noise is by listening but none of the experienced mechanics at my job will even attempt to listen.


Also replaced the lame pvc hoses with actual silicone. No more stretching and popping off under boost. Silicone left, pvc right.

Last edited by 2slofouru; 05-14-2009 at 11:35 PM.
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Old 05-22-2009, 10:10 PM   #160
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A bump for Auto silicone, coastguard1975, and mandrelbends on ebay where I bought all of my tubing. Also because my car is still running despite the weird noise, lol. I triple checked the timing belt and gears and everything is correct. The tensioner is also quiet. I've checked the tubing several times and the hoses are all staying put as well. And for all of the people who haven't seen my cheezy video yet, this is why you should make sure your hoses aren't pvc/vinyl:


Last edited by 2slofouru; 05-22-2009 at 10:19 PM.
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Old 05-23-2009, 02:52 PM   #161
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Cool thread. I'm new here, but it's one of the ones I'm closely following...
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Old 05-25-2009, 10:20 PM   #162
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/\ Thanks for your comment and the support


Here is something that's been happening more recently


and the clack/tap noise that's been there for a while, its quieter after warmup but still there

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Old 05-26-2009, 06:39 AM   #163
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2slofouru View Post
/\ Thanks for your comment and the support


Here is something that's been happening more recently

YouTube - impreza turbo swap cold start idle loping

and the clack/tap noise that's been there for a while, its quieter after warmup but still there

YouTube - impreza tapping noise

check the IAC valve, you have probably get some rust or dirt that interfere the movement when the control box try to move the valve so it get stock at one or many places so you get that clack/tap noise when you rev the engine, so you know that valve is always on and working until you get past a curtain opening on the throttle valve and a curtain rpm, and on a subaru original control box so do it control the IAC valve with open lop (that mean that it have a giving value on how much the IAC should be open at curtain rpm so it doesnít compensate if it needs to open more to get right rpm or close the valve a little bit to retch the right value it is set to get to).
so you know so is that turbo engine and electronics not really match to each other , the coil configuration and the heads not a match , the heads is made for a coil settings that you have 4 coils that should be sitting on the heads where the sparkplugs are, you lose power when you use semi sequential coil timing (1 coil to 2 sparkplugs even called waste spark) instead of sequential !
donít boost that standard block you use too much now sins itís not reinforced in the cooling channels between the piston chamber wall and the engine wall like it is on the turbo engine block, you will blow a hole in the piston chamber wall for sure
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Old 05-26-2009, 09:06 AM   #164
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my MAF went bad on my OBS. it had trouble idling. not a bouncy idle like that, but would plummet and stall occasionally. IAC/IACV is the other culprit. my V4 swap had one die a month or so after i sold it to my friend.

what have you checked thus far?

--keith
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Old 05-26-2009, 06:54 PM   #165
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kheff46 View Post
my MAF went bad on my OBS. it had trouble idling. not a bouncy idle like that, but would plummet and stall occasionally. IAC/IACV is the other culprit. my V4 swap had one die a month or so after i sold it to my friend.

what have you checked thus far?

--keith
I pulled the IAC and it was very clean. Haven't pulled the maf yet but I've got a new air filter and I cleaned the maf before installing it so it shouldn't be dirty yet. Guess it could have died though. The loping quits after warmup.
I think the loping started after I sprung a leak on one of the heater hoses and it was spraying all under the intercooler. Maybe it got into the two main harness plugs, I'll have to pull the intercooler YET AGAIN and unplug them to make sure they're dry inside. I can't think of anything else under the intercooler that is sensitive to moisture.
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Old 05-26-2009, 10:06 PM   #166
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I pulled the intercooler and checked all of the plugs. All were dry and clean. I used contact cleaner just in case. Also checked as many vacuum hoses as I could. Couldn't find any damaged hoses. The maf was also still clean. I don't think its the maf because the lope stops after warmup.
I'm also not losing oil or coolant so I have no idea what's going on. I'll order new valve cover gaskets tomorrow (forgot today) and hopefully have good enough weather to check valve clearances and compression this weeked, if weather permits.

If I could determine the exact frequency of the tapping sound I could probably divide it into the rpm and determine whether its piston/rod/bearing noise or valvetrain.
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Old 05-27-2009, 01:59 AM   #167
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2slofouru View Post
I've done several hard pulls and the Power FC shows knock as practically non existent. The noise hasn't changed as far as I can tell. How long does it take a spun bearing to become obvious.. really loud? Also, while running the power FC there is a slight hesitation when revving it a little from idle, right at the beginning of rpm increase. It runs fine throughout the rest of the rpm range.
I may be too late on this advice, but if you suspect a spun bearing, cut open your oil filter and look for bits of bearing. You can carefully cut around the shell with a hack saw, then cut the paper element with a razor blade. When you unfold the paper, any metal on the paper ridges is probably from the hacksaw, but metal that was caught when the engine was running will be pulled to the bottom of the valleys.

You might have to let the paper dry out for a couple of hours to really see the damage. This filter, from a Miata, showed bearing failure long before any noise became obvious (about 30 track hours before the noise was finally unbearable, actually)



This is what the bearings actually looked like:



-Dave
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Old 05-27-2009, 07:42 AM   #168
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I'll definately try that soon. Didn't notice any metal in the second oil change, maybe its all in the filter.
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Old 05-27-2009, 09:00 AM   #169
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my MAF was being funky for months. only at the end did it actually lope the idle. it had issues first going to baseline idle from any type of rev or driving. then it would drive fine, no issues. then it'd rev up real slow from a normal idle. after months of messing around i found it would do more of these things more often. just a thought!

i didn't check the thread, but your fuel filter is ok right? not super old or anything?

--keith
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Old 05-27-2009, 06:23 PM   #170
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Fuel filter was changed recently. Considering it runs very well when driving and doesn't lean out under boost, the filter should do ok at idle. I forgot to order the valve cover gaskets again. I may still pull the driver side valve cover to check clearances. I will check compression again this weekend.




Quote:
Originally Posted by kheff46 View Post
my MAF was being funky for months. only at the end did it actually lope the idle. it had issues first going to baseline idle from any type of rev or driving. then it would drive fine, no issues. then it'd rev up real slow from a normal idle. after months of messing around i found it would do more of these things more often. just a thought!

i didn't check the thread, but your fuel filter is ok right? not super old or anything?

--keith
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Old 05-28-2009, 08:48 PM   #171
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I plugged the power FC in yesterday and it doesn't have the swinging idle from a cold start. Apparently the power FC doesn't care enough about the engine's condition to affect idle, lol.

I also called apexi yesterday to try and find the manual in english, and the tech first told me "no apexi powerFC manuals are in english". Then after me saying "so basically you're saying "screw you" to the people who can't understand japanese?" he told me the eclipse manual was in english and I could use that as help. Supposedly he was going to email it to me but apparently he was either full of crap and just being a dick or somehow he got sidetracked. He never sent the pdf
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Old 05-30-2009, 10:25 PM   #172
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Ok, I checked compression again today. All cylinders read close to 125psi. This was with all plugs out and the throttle open. Also got a cat welded in today which helped take some stress off the exhaust by adding a couple of inches. A few people who've heard the car thinks it misses at idle. To me it sounds ok but maybe I'm missing something. Either that or they aren't used to the flat four sound. It definately doesn't miss when you're being pinned to the seat though.

plug condition


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Old 05-31-2009, 10:44 AM   #173
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loping to inline guys sounds like misfire! lol.

a miss @ idle and not during accel. or WOT would mean what if it were actually missing. i can't tell from the vid, my comp speaker are trash.

--keith
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Old 06-03-2009, 06:32 PM   #174
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Here is a video of someone testing their car with a vacuum gauge. I have the same gauge and it acts just like the one in the video. Anyone care to guess what could be causing the needles vibration, with good vacuum?

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Old 07-22-2009, 12:25 AM   #175
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2slow how did you align your timing belt?
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