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Old 02-23-2015, 11:50 AM   #1126
xluben
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The other day I swapped the cap on my TurboSmart FPR from blue to black.

Started with this (cap screws already loosened):


Going to be swapping on this black cap:


Everything all taken apart:


Here it is with the black cap and dual inputs (for parallel fuel rails):




And here is with a single input (for series fuel rails):




Blue cap for sale if anyone is interested!
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Old 02-23-2015, 12:05 PM   #1127
xluben
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Over the weekend I worked on getting the fuel rails and lines setup. The IAG lines do not have the SS braided layer under the nylon braid so it was very easy to cut and get setup with the fittings. I set the rails up for series fueling. They are arranged 4-2-3-1. This is the opposite of the firing order. There is a LOT of debate on fuel line routing but Dom at Maxwell Power has some good points for going with the opposite of the firing order.

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=1934936
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=2162858

I also pulled off the TGV housings (I have the plastic ones) and cleaned them up, as well as cleaning the injectors and replaced the top o-rings. I assembled the TGV's, rails, and injectors. It is a great benefit of aftermarket lines/rails that they're not tied to the intake manifold at all so they can be assembled off the car and then installed.















I picked up this adjustable wrench from Harbor Freight. It is cheap, but much better quality than the other cheap adjustable wrenches I have been using. Adjustment is very smooth and the jaws are very thin (even compared to the AN fitting specific wrenches). The best thing is that it comes with plastic covers for the jaws so it won't mar the fittings. The covers aren't a perfect fit, so you can't put a ton of torque on with them, but so far so good.

http://www.harborfreight.com/2-in-1-...nch-67128.html





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Old 02-24-2015, 09:06 AM   #1128
xluben
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I did some work last night. I re-did the crankcase vent lines and then finished installed the TGV's, fuel rails, fuel lines, and intake manifold. I also hooked up the turbo oil feed to the AVCS banjo. The little Mr. Heater was able to get it (barely) above freezing in my garage.

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Old 02-24-2015, 02:25 PM   #1129
WRXt4cy
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Thanks for the info you posted up about the oil sump setup. Didn't realize it would need to breathe but that makes perfect sense.

Looks like you should be ready to rock when the weather warms up. What is left to do?

PS - you need a Reznor or similar gas heater in your garage. Should be pretty easy to plumb in with your exposed framing. With as much time as you spend out there I figured you'd have something to keep it warm. We just built a new home so I was able to get gas heat, 220 and accommodations for a lift in place up front. I relied on a Kerosene heater in my old garage and it kept it warm but the fumes were too much.
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Old 02-24-2015, 02:45 PM   #1130
xluben
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WRXt4cy View Post
Thanks for the info you posted up about the oil sump setup. Didn't realize it would need to breathe but that makes perfect sense.

Looks like you should be ready to rock when the weather warms up. What is left to do?

PS - you need a Reznor or similar gas heater in your garage. Should be pretty easy to plumb in with your exposed framing. With as much time as you spend out there I figured you'd have something to keep it warm. We just built a new home so I was able to get gas heat, 220 and accommodations for a lift in place up front. I relied on a Kerosene heater in my old garage and it kept it warm but the fumes were too much.
It is getting really close. I hit two minor hiccups.

First is that I was shipped the wrong scavenge pump and I am having a hard time trying to return it because it has been so long. Hopefully I can get that figured out soon and then order the correct one. Then once I get that I need to mount it and do the wiring.

Second is that I need a new radiator. Mine was always slightly leaking so I am going to order a new one and then I need to install that. One other thing I've been putting off is hardwiring the fuel pump. After that it's just filling/burping coolant and filling/priming oil.

Here's my basic list:
  • Install Radiator
  • Install Oil Scavenge Pump
  • Wire Oil Scavenge Pump
  • Wire Fuel Pump
  • Fill and Burp Coolant
  • Fill and Prime Oil
It's not a whole lot of work left but it will probably still be a couple weeks at least due to waiting for parts to arrive. I am hoping to do some of the wiring while I am waiting for parts so that it will all be quick drop in's once things arrive.

I do have a 7500W ceiling mount electric heater, but it's still sitting in the box because I don't have 220V in my garage. I already bought a breaker box and a few other items, but I haven't had a chance to do any actual work (I know very little about home electrical).
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Old 02-25-2015, 04:39 PM   #1131
Delphi
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What are you doing for your crankcase venting?

I just switched to the IAG AOS and it is by far the best of the bunch on the market.
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Old 02-25-2015, 05:15 PM   #1132
xluben
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Delphi View Post
What are you doing for your crankcase venting?

I just switched to the IAG AOS and it is by far the best of the bunch on the market.
I have been looking into that one and it does look great. Do you have the Street version or the Competition version? My setup is very, very simple but it functions much like the Competition version from IAG. Here is a photo:



All I'm doing is T'ing both of the front vent ports on the valve covers into the large vent port on the back of the block. Then this is all T'd into a vent line that runs down along the trabsmission and ventd under the car (just like IAG).

The PCV port on the intake manifold it plugged and there is no routing back to the intake (just like IAG). My setup does not catch any oil or route it back into the pan in any way. The oil vapor is simply vented.

Very effective for keeping oil out of the intake tract. Not so friendly to mother nature but that's the trade off. My setup costs just a few dollars. Two 1/2" T fittings and some 1/2" fuel line is all you need.
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Old 02-25-2015, 05:32 PM   #1133
Delphi
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xluben View Post
I have been looking into that one and it does look great. Do you have the Street version or the Competition version? My setup is very, very simple but it functions much like the Competition version from IAG. Here is a photo:


All I'm doing is T'ing both of the front vent ports on the valve covers into the large vent port on the back of the block. Then this is all T'd into a vent line that runs down along the trabsmission and ventd under the car (just like IAG).

The PCV port on the intake manifold it plugged and there is no routing back to the intake (just like IAG). My setup does not catch any oil or route it back into the pan in any way. The oil vapor is simply vented.

Very effective for keeping oil out of the intake tract. Not so friendly to mother nature but that's the trade off. My setup costs just a few dollars. Two 1/2" T fittings and some 1/2" fuel line is all you need.

I got the competition one after talking with IAG and having all my PCV Issues in -30C. I am sure you've seen the horror pictures with the Crawford AOS. Basically was happening to me all the way to the crank case breather.

If you recall on your 2011 wrx the Crankcase Tee it necks down from the 5/8" barb to a 1/8" hole in the tee then it goes to the PCV and inlet off of that. That bit is critical to have after looking at it if you go with a stock or semi stock (Grimmspeed) setup. When I swapped my blown vf52 out and did TGV deletes and air pump deletes my tee ripped apart. Subaru here wanted 60 dollars for it and it was a month out. Did my own setup up and had nothing but issues since, PCV freezing/gunking up quickly, and out of norm oil usage. Since the IAG install it has been much better. Heated is the way to go in northern Canada because the gunking will happen even in spring/fall here.

How has your oil usage been with venting all to atmosphere? Because if it isn't bad you could save the $400 and stay with your setup if it is working.
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Old 02-25-2015, 08:37 PM   #1134
xluben
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It can get fairly cold around here too. We just had several days where it never got above 0F at all. I'm not driving this car though. I ran a setup like this on my 2011 as well and I did drive that in the winter and I never had issues.

On this car I do have a 2012 STI motor so it's all much the same as my 2011 was. That OEM hose adapter was swapped out on both my setups for a straight hose going into a T fitting. Nothing back to the inlet or intake manifold. The PCV port on the intakeanifold is plugged.

On this car I actually did try using small port on the OEM fitting as the vent. It didn't flow nearly enough and the car smoked on decel. Once I swapped that to a 1/2" vent it went away completely.

Oil consumption was never too crazy in my 2011. I never had to add anything between changes. This car I change it frequently for the miles I drive so it's never enough to notice. I only did 3000-4000 miles last summer and changed the oil half a dozen time. Usually before and after going to the track.

I do like the look and design of the IAG but for this car I don't think I need it. If I were going to get one though it would be the IAG for sure. I just got their fuel rails and the quality is great.
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Old 02-26-2015, 09:59 AM   #1135
Delphi
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xluben View Post
It can get fairly cold around here too. We just had several days where it never got above 0F at all. I'm not driving this car though. I ran a setup like this on my 2011 as well and I did drive that in the winter and I never had issues.

I wouldn't imagine so. I tried to keep it as stock like as possible and had issues with my fix



I do like the look and design of the IAG but for this car I don't think I need it. If I were going to get one though it would be the IAG for sure. I just got their fuel rails and the quality is great.

I would highly recommend it. It is huge and just by feel it makes you think it is a quality product.

Also if User1029 sees this he will recommend it to you until hes blue in the face
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Old 02-26-2015, 10:20 AM   #1136
xluben
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Delphi View Post
I would highly recommend it. It is huge and just by feel it makes you think it is a quality product.

Also if User1029 sees this he will recommend it to you until hes blue in the face
If one of you wants to buy me one I would definitely install it in my car!
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Old 02-27-2015, 03:53 PM   #1137
xluben
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Picked up a radiator because mine was leaking. Just arrived today.











This will be swapped for OEM:



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Old 02-27-2015, 05:16 PM   #1138
toph
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They make a solid radiator, not a huge fan of their other parts or gimmicky marketing plan though. I installed mine along with a 160* thermostat and really made a huge difference in driving/idling temps.
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Old 02-27-2015, 05:18 PM   #1139
xluben
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Quote:
Originally Posted by toph View Post
They make a solid radiator, not a huge fan of their other parts or gimmicky marketing plan though. I installed mine along with a 160* thermostat and really made a huge difference in driving/idling temps.
Yeah, I think I'm about the same way. I mainly just needed something that wouldnt leak.
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Old 03-03-2015, 08:46 AM   #1140
xluben
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9.5s @ 150mph

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Last night I did some wiring for the fuel pump and oil scavenge pump. Both are going to be hardwired with relays. I did as much of the soldering as I could do outside the car. The rest will have to be done in the car.

Any suggestions on a fuse I can tap into to get a 12V signal on the ACC key position from inside the engine bay? I was thinking the rear defrost fuse would work, but my battery is dead so I couldn't check it.

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Old 03-06-2015, 05:08 PM   #1141
xluben
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9.5s @ 150mph

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Earlier this week I attempted to charge my Odyssey slim battery with a new charger I got for Christmas. Something didn't go right and the battery was bulging and very hot when I got back. The charger was set to trickle mode, but it appears it didn't stop charging when it should have. I ended up returning the charger for a better (smarter) one, and bought a new battery.

Bad vs. New


New Charger


Digital readout is much more useful than the analog gauge on the other charger.


New battery and new charger together.


Same model I had before.
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Old 03-06-2015, 05:10 PM   #1142
xluben
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Today I got the final piece of the puzzle that I need. TurboWerx Exa-Pump Mini. This is a gear driven pump and appears to be of much higher quality than the Mocal water pump that I had before. I am hoping to get it mounted and wired tonight or later this weekend.











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Old 03-08-2015, 03:25 AM   #1143
xluben
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My brother and I spent about 3-4 hours working on things last night. Got the oil pump mounted and soldered the wire leads onto the relay that I already had mostly set up. Then I soldered all the connections for the fuel pump relay. I put the battery in place and then put fuses into the power wires for the oil and fuel pump.

The oil pump came on immediately. The fuse I had tapped into was providing signal even with the car off apparently. Poked around and tried every fuse in the engine bay and they are all "hot" with the car off. Most are just a small voltage but they're enough to start the pump.

The only one that was truly off was the headlight fuse, but it doesn't show 12V until the car is on and the headlights are turned on. Not what I want. We are still seeing if there are any wires I could tap into in the engine bay, otherwise we will have to pull it into the cabin and tap into the wires that all the gauges are connected to.

After that I tried priming it to check the fuel pump. The fuel pump primed just fine. Injectors were still leaking a little so I pulled them all out and added a bumper and put them all back in. They all seem to seal up fine now.

Somewhere in this process I happened to try priming it with the fuel pump power wire fuse pulled out. It still primed. Something wasn't right. I unplugged the relay completely and it still primed! Doing some more research I found that on the 02 WRX the black/yellow wire is for the fuel sensor. The guide I was using was on an STI and black/yellow is pump power. I believe I have found the correct schematic for my car and the black/red is power.

So tonight I hope to rewire the fuel pump and then run the oil pump wire into the cabin. I believe that is all that is left before starting it up and burping the coolant.
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Old 03-08-2015, 03:25 AM   #1144
xluben
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It's alive! I fixed the fuel pump wiring this afternoon. That's working as expected now. Unfortunately I think I fried the fuel level sensor (or possibly fuel temp sensor) when I had the relay wired up incorrectly. The dash just shows no fuel all the time now. For the oil pump my brother realized that we have 12V ACC power running to the boost gauge sender in the engine bay already, so I just spliced into that wire for the oil pump relay signal.

Once all that was done we primed the turbo with oil, fired it up, and then burped the coolant. Took it around the block and it seems to be running well. There was a little oil in the exhaust dump after the initial startup but I think it might have been from all the cranking to prime the turbo. I've done a few restarts since then and I don't see any clouds of smoke. I'll be monitoring it to see if any more oil shows up in the exhaust.

The car still needs a tune but I did take it to the parking ramp a few blocks away for some rolling shots.

Setup Shot:


Setup Shot:


Air Filter:


Velocity Stack:


Engine Bay:
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Old 03-08-2015, 10:34 AM   #1145
TheAnser
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ISM

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Rolling shots are awesome, good to see another chapter in your build complete. Excited to see what this throws down post-tune!
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Old 03-08-2015, 02:37 PM   #1146
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^ Agreed, going to be a beast.
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Old 03-09-2015, 10:56 AM   #1147
WRXt4cy
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NICE! Very impressive work on this project Ben.

When is tuning? Will it be dyno tuned on this new setup? I've love to see the power curve this setup can produce.
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Old 03-09-2015, 11:14 AM   #1148
xluben
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9.5s @ 150mph

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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheAnser View Post
Rolling shots are awesome, good to see another chapter in your build complete. Excited to see what this throws down post-tune!
Quote:
Originally Posted by RedlineFl View Post
^ Agreed, going to be a beast.
Thanks! I'm looking forward to it too!

Quote:
Originally Posted by WRXt4cy View Post
NICE! Very impressive work on this project Ben.

When is tuning? Will it be dyno tuned on this new setup? I've love to see the power curve this setup can produce.
It will be tuned whenever Nuke has time. I'm guessing we'll just do street tuning for now. I've never had a car dyno tuned, so I don't think it's really necessary, but if it's something Nuke wants to do in the future I wouldn't be against it.
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Old 03-09-2015, 11:46 AM   #1149
WRXt4cy
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02 v8 Spec C E85

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Quote:
Originally Posted by xluben View Post
Thanks! I'm looking forward to it too!


It will be tuned whenever Nuke has time. I'm guessing we'll just do street tuning for now. I've never had a car dyno tuned, so I don't think it's really necessary, but if it's something Nuke wants to do in the future I wouldn't be against it.
I guess he's probably done things that are similar enough to this that he knows where it needs to be without using a dyno. I do mostly road tuning myself due to lack of a good dyno to use (that's changing this year finally) and it works out fine. I just like to get the 500+ whp cars on the dyno as its a lot easier to find where the power stops.

Either way, can't wait to see the results!
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Old 03-10-2015, 11:53 AM   #1150
xluben
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2002 WRX - 750WHP
9.5s @ 150mph

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Quote:
Originally Posted by WRXt4cy View Post
I guess he's probably done things that are similar enough to this that he knows where it needs to be without using a dyno. I do mostly road tuning myself due to lack of a good dyno to use (that's changing this year finally) and it works out fine. I just like to get the 500+ whp cars on the dyno as its a lot easier to find where the power stops.

Either way, can't wait to see the results!
Yeah, he has done plenty with more power than this. I think the big thing is that we're not pushing it to the limit with this setup. Eeking out every once of power isn't really the goal right now. The motor would likely let go long before the turbo tops out.
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