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Old 06-02-2018, 04:39 PM   #1
smoothbagel
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Member#: 486698
Join Date: Jun 2018
Default EJ20K Stuck at 2000 RPM

Hi Guys,

I have a problem I've been stuck on for a while. I recently crashed my miata (which I bought for a grand) and traded it for an EJ20K swapped 1993 Impreza L. I received the car not running with no BOV, no O2 senor, no boost sensors, no stock cluster, the stock 1.8 NA ECU, and a mess of a harness. I knew this project would be a mission and a half so i started by getting a new intake manifold, rhd harness, and Apexi Power FC off a v4 EJ20 (should be for my motor). I made my own harness and fuse box and the main relay and fuel pump relay work perfectly. The car has a hard time starting, but it does start and idle. When I give it gas it acts normal and then I get to 2000 rpm and the car just cuts off. It seems like its almost not getting fuel.
I started investigating this issue by looking at all the fuel related things. I swapped injectors, cleaned injectors, swapped to an AEM 320 lph pump, checked fuel pressure (it is normal). I then looked to the intake and replaced the intake manifold gaskets and checked for vacuum and boost leaks (there were none). I then took apart the exhaust and removed the downpipe cat and cut and rewelded the O2 bung where the stock EJ20Ks should be. I also removed the headers and looked for an up pipe cat, but there wasn't one. I then assumed it was in limp mode and looked to the VSS. I noticed I had the stock one from the 1.8, and the ECU was looking for a hall effect off the newer cars. I went to the junkyard and bought a hall effect and modified it to fit the trans. The ECU now reads everything accurately (RPM, speed, timing, MAF, boost, battery voltage, injector duty, airbox temp, water temp, TPS, and O2). I was still running into the same problem. I noticed my timing belt was slightly off (maybe a half a tooth) and I thought it would be good replace so I tried that. At that point I looked into tuning (I have a Q45 MAF and yellow top injectors (should be stock). I brought in a tuner and he said it cant be tuned and the issue is not tune.
At that point I was thinking maybe its because I don't have the cluster so I tried adding a variety of resistors to the tach input in the ECU, but there was no result. One thing I haven't checked into too much is my alternator wiring. I saw that it was outputting good voltage to the car so I didn't think much of it. I have a bulb between the alternator output and the ignition. I will look into it more and keep you guys updated. Most people tell me to just get the stock cluster, but at this point I'm thinking about building a Megasquirt and buying an AEM wideband. Wondering if you guys have any ideas I can try.

Thank you (And sorry about the length)
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Old 06-07-2018, 07:35 AM   #2
Jaxx
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Member#: 177
Join Date: Aug 1999
Chapter/Region: NWIC
Location: Austin, Texas, USA
Vehicle:
The 93 W/EJ20K-sold
Subaru-less :(

Default

that sounds like a mess
you need to find another tuner
trying to think what would put a power fc in to limp
what about the cam sensor
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Old 06-15-2018, 07:23 PM   #3
subaru_gc8
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Member#: 29292
Join Date: Nov 2002
Chapter/Region: SCIC
Location: Orange County CA
Vehicle:
2004 WRX wagon
silver

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by smoothbagel View Post
Hi Guys,

I have a problem I've been stuck on for a while. I recently crashed my miata (which I bought for a grand) and traded it for an EJ20K swapped 1993 Impreza L. I received the car not running with no BOV, no O2 senor, no boost sensors, no stock cluster, the stock 1.8 NA ECU, and a mess of a harness. I knew this project would be a mission and a half so i started by getting a new intake manifold, rhd harness, and Apexi Power FC off a v4 EJ20 (should be for my motor). I made my own harness and fuse box and the main relay and fuel pump relay work perfectly. The car has a hard time starting, but it does start and idle. When I give it gas it acts normal and then I get to 2000 rpm and the car just cuts off. It seems like its almost not getting fuel.
I started investigating this issue by looking at all the fuel related things. I swapped injectors, cleaned injectors, swapped to an AEM 320 lph pump, checked fuel pressure (it is normal). I then looked to the intake and replaced the intake manifold gaskets and checked for vacuum and boost leaks (there were none). I then took apart the exhaust and removed the downpipe cat and cut and rewelded the O2 bung where the stock EJ20Ks should be. I also removed the headers and looked for an up pipe cat, but there wasn't one. I then assumed it was in limp mode and looked to the VSS. I noticed I had the stock one from the 1.8, and the ECU was looking for a hall effect off the newer cars. I went to the junkyard and bought a hall effect and modified it to fit the trans. The ECU now reads everything accurately (RPM, speed, timing, MAF, boost, battery voltage, injector duty, airbox temp, water temp, TPS, and O2). I was still running into the same problem. I noticed my timing belt was slightly off (maybe a half a tooth) and I thought it would be good replace so I tried that. At that point I looked into tuning (I have a Q45 MAF and yellow top injectors (should be stock). I brought in a tuner and he said it cant be tuned and the issue is not tune.
At that point I was thinking maybe its because I don't have the cluster so I tried adding a variety of resistors to the tach input in the ECU, but there was no result. One thing I haven't checked into too much is my alternator wiring. I saw that it was outputting good voltage to the car so I didn't think much of it. I have a bulb between the alternator output and the ignition. I will look into it more and keep you guys updated. Most people tell me to just get the stock cluster, but at this point I'm thinking about building a Megasquirt and buying an AEM wideband. Wondering if you guys have any ideas I can try.

Thank you (And sorry about the length)
So hope i got this straight, you had a power fc and at 2000 it like hit a wall like it just wouldn't rev anymore? Do you have access to the map in the Power fc like through a dataloggit or something? just a little FYI the power fc doesnt have a safe mode, its all or nothing to the engines demise. very basic and it doesnt have any timing control except for a blinking CEL to tell you its knocking.

My personal experience tells me that its either running very lean, or misfiring bad. I would start with the coil first.

hey if you want to stay with the Power fc there are some really cool things you can do to get it to run (google Copilot power fc tuning)

pm me if you wanna talk about it

Steven
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Old 07-03-2018, 01:00 AM   #4
smoothbagel
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Member#: 486698
Join Date: Jun 2018
Default

I checked the resistance through the sensor and it was up to spec. I also made sure the wiring was done correctly.
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Old 07-03-2018, 01:06 AM   #5
smoothbagel
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Member#: 486698
Join Date: Jun 2018
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by subaru_gc8 View Post
So hope i got this straight, you had a power fc and at 2000 it like hit a wall like it just wouldn't rev anymore? Do you have access to the map in the Power fc like through a dataloggit or something? just a little FYI the power fc doesnt have a safe mode, its all or nothing to the engines demise. very basic and it doesnt have any timing control except for a blinking CEL to tell you its knocking.

My personal experience tells me that its either running very lean, or misfiring bad. I would start with the coil first.

hey if you want to stay with the Power fc there are some really cool things you can do to get it to run (google Copilot power fc tuning)

pm me if you wanna talk about it

Steven
Hi Steven! You got it right it literally will not rev over 2000 rpm. Even with added throttle. I actually just bought an AEM Infinity ECU and am making the triggers for it when I get beck from vacation. Ill actually be able to see the output signals of the cam and crank and all that which should point me to the solution. Ill keep you all posted!
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