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Old 03-04-2014, 02:07 PM   #26
Asharus
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while we're on topic. im installing a Defi oil pressure gauge before i get tuned for E85.

best place to install the sensor is under the alternator where the factory oil pressure gauge is, correct?
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Old 03-04-2014, 02:10 PM   #27
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Yep. And before this issue I've always used the spot mentioned above with good results if you don't want to mess with the stock sensor.
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Old 03-04-2014, 02:35 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Asharus View Post
best place to install the sensor is under the alternator where the factory oil pressure gauge is, correct?
Correct.

Quote:
Originally Posted by TyranosaurusWRX View Post
Yep. And before this issue I've always used the spot mentioned above with good results if you don't want to mess with the stock sensor.
Try moving it. Pressure will be reduced the further from the source you are. For example, it's not uncommon to see oil pressure half as much at the turbo feed line vs the front port. The rear port will read less than the front. This may be your issue.
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Old 03-04-2014, 02:47 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KillerBMotorsport View Post
Correct.



Try moving it. Pressure will be reduced the further from the source you are. For example, it's not uncommon to see oil pressure half as much at the turbo feed line vs the front port. The rear port will read less than the front. This may be your issue.
It's worth a shot..maybe something changed that I'm not seeing. But I've used that spot for a few different incarnations and it's always worked Anything is worth trying at this point.

Another thought I've had in the back of my mind is if the o-rings in the block halves got pinched somehow or maybe warped by excess sealant on the mating surface, if that would affect pressure....
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Old 03-04-2014, 04:14 PM   #30
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I doubt it's that seal. You'd likely notice if the block haves were not going together well. Even if the seal was left out, it would only bleed a wee little bit.
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Old 03-04-2014, 04:21 PM   #31
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Originally Posted by KillerBMotorsport View Post
I doubt it's that seal. You'd likely notice if the block haves were not going together well. Even if the seal was left out, it would only bleed a wee little bit.
I was kinda thinking the same thing, just want to cover all my bases.
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Old 03-09-2014, 01:52 PM   #32
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hi i have been having the same problem with my 06 sti, i got stock internals and bigger turbo, tbe, intake, fuel pump, injectors, tgv deletes, mishi rad, mbc, GS crosspipe manifold not pnp'd, external wastegate uppipe 44mm tial, killer b pick up, checked the oil pump o ring was pretty messed up so replaced it and oil pump had a scratch fixed it and used it. and i got the defi oil pressure gauge i dont know where my friend hooked it up to but he said i was having low oil pressure its 80 at cold start on idle and 12-14 on warm idle and if i rev it to about 5500 to 5800 it goes to 64psi and also i have not been tuned yet.
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Old 03-29-2014, 10:08 AM   #33
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Im also experiencing some odd pressure differences with my 04 WRX. Its been very very VERY consistent throughout its life and would run around 90psi at load, and nearly spot on 40psi at idle (after warmup). But now its running about 25psi at idle and about 75psi at load (after warmup). I checked for any leaks, saw nothing, and I also replaced the sensor and gage, still no change. So im starting to think that the pickup tube might be the problem. Its probably about time to have it changed anyways, so im just gonna go ahead and change it.

Anyone have any additional thoughts? Its got bolt-ons and accessport only, no internal changes. I always use purple 5w-30, so the viscosity shouldnt be a problem.

Thanks!
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Old 03-29-2014, 01:30 PM   #34
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There's certainly something going on. The biggest red flag for an oiling system is an observed change in feedback, which is exactly what you've got. Best thing to do is troubleshoot before it gets drastically worse, causing damage.

There's really just a couple things it could be; oil pickup or pump. When the pump wears it tends to change over a longer period of time. When the pickup fails it rapid.
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Old 03-29-2014, 02:09 PM   #35
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That's kinda what I was thinking. Thanks for the reply!

Do you happen to offer nasioc discounts for your oil pickup tubes? I'm gonna need one asap for a 04 wrx 2.0L
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Old 04-02-2014, 08:44 AM   #36
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Just a quick update:

I had the oil pressure checked with a mechanical gauge. it seems that my problem is the exact opposite of what I originally thought... my pressure is WAY TOO HIGH! I am running at about 95 psi idle, and 115 psi at 5000rpm (per the Subaru dealer). So im thinkiing that its time for an oil pump change, since from what ive heard the relief valve can cause high pressures. Any thoughts?

Also, as a side note, since im gonna have my timing belt off, i might as well change the water pump (im at 140k miles). I was just gonna go OEM for both the oil and water pumps, but ive also seen other brands (paraut, gates, etc) which seem to be comparable and a little less pricey. Any thoughts on part brands?

Thanks for all the help!
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Old 04-02-2014, 08:47 AM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SubieAddict_2.5rs05 View Post
Just a quick update:

I had the oil pressure checked with a mechanical gauge. it seems that my problem is the exact opposite of what I originally thought... my pressure is WAY TOO HIGH! I am running at about 95 psi idle, and 115 psi at 5000rpm (per the Subaru dealer). So im thinkiing that its time for an oil pump change, since from what ive heard the relief valve can cause high pressures. Any thoughts?

Also, as a side note, since im gonna have my timing belt off, i might as well change the water pump (im at 140k miles). I was just gonna go OEM for both the oil and water pumps, but ive also seen other brands (paraut, gates, etc) which seem to be comparable and a little less pricey. Any thoughts on part brands?

Thanks for all the help!
95 psi at idle? Relief valve or not I don't see how a engine spinning at idle can generate that amount of pressure with warm 5w30 oil.
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Old 04-02-2014, 08:53 AM   #38
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95 psi at idle? Relief valve or not I don't see how a engine spinning at idle can generate that amount of pressure with warm 5w30 oil.
I thought that too, but the dealer said they used 2 different mechanical gauges and achieved the same result.

You got me thinking that I could have bigger problems than just an oil pump. My idle has been increased to 850rpm, but yea 95psi seems a bit on the insane side.
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Old 04-02-2014, 09:13 AM   #39
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Keep us posted.
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Old 04-02-2014, 11:35 AM   #40
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95 psi hot? You'll see that at idle cold no problem, but not hot. I've not seen them all, but more than many, and I've never ever heard of a bypass malfunction causing pressure to go up. It's always the opposite.

Does this car have the original OEM pump?
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Old 04-02-2014, 01:09 PM   #41
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Originally Posted by KillerBMotorsport View Post
95 psi hot? You'll see that at idle cold no problem, but not hot. I've not seen them all, but more than many, and I've never ever heard of a bypass malfunction causing pressure to go up. It's always the opposite.

Does this car have the original OEM pump?
I think it was probably done at cold, but im not 100% sure. I should probably have asked that. I just know that 115psi at 5000rpm is probably not good for my engine.

Yep. The pump is still the factory original. I plan on having it changed with a Parault version very shortly. Its probably about due anyways.

From what I have read on other forums, high oil pressure problems have been resolved by a change to the oil pump, so at this point that's the best shot i've got. Unless you have any other advice?
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Old 04-02-2014, 03:20 PM   #42
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Ill chime in too. Im seeing a lower oil pressure than I used to kinda like what KillerB said......"if its the pump, it usually wears slowly"

Used to read....
100psi at start up
50-60psi while driving
25psi while at idle

NOW it reads....
75psi at start up
50-60psi while driving
below 25 psi at idle

So my start up and idle pressures are lower but while driving the gauges acts EXACTLY the same, I dont get it and I am also hooked into the back galley plug (below the IC and using a relocation kit due to the AutoMeter sender size) And I have always used Rotella 5w-40 and either a wix filter or Purolator Pure One filter (mainly the Puro has been used tho).


Its been like this for quite some time now. I gotta hook a pressure gauge into my braided line and see what that reads. Here is my thread that I started. I will report back any news.

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=2584610
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Old 04-02-2014, 04:52 PM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SubieAddict_2.5rs05 View Post
I think it was probably done at cold, but im not 100% sure. I should probably have asked that. I just know that 115psi at 5000rpm is probably not good for my engine.

Yep. The pump is still the factory original. I plan on having it changed with a Parault version very shortly. Its probably about due anyways.

From what I have read on other forums, high oil pressure problems have been resolved by a change to the oil pump, so at this point that's the best shot i've got. Unless you have any other advice?
I would find out if that was cold or hot first. If it was cold, it sounds about normal.

Quote:
Originally Posted by shamrock 05 View Post
Ill chime in too. Im seeing a lower oil pressure than I used to kinda like what KillerB said......"if its the pump, it usually wears slowly"

Used to read....
100psi at start up
50-60psi while driving
25psi while at idle

NOW it reads....
75psi at start up
50-60psi while driving
below 25 psi at idle

So my start up and idle pressures are lower but while driving the gauges acts EXACTLY the same, I dont get it and I am also hooked into the back galley plug (below the IC and using a relocation kit due to the AutoMeter sender size) And I have always used Rotella 5w-40 and either a wix filter or Purolator Pure One filter (mainly the Puro has been used tho).


Its been like this for quite some time now. I gotta hook a pressure gauge into my braided line and see what that reads. Here is my thread that I started. I will report back any news.

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=2584610
Was the pressure sensor always back there? In the back port it does read lower.
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Old 04-02-2014, 05:36 PM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KillerBMotorsport View Post
No problem. If you've got the pan off and pickup out. You might as well just replace it, If an aftermarket piece is not in the budget, replace it with a new one every 20K miles to insure you don't have this kind of failure.

Here are some pics of what to look for in the braze flux, tell tale signs of stress...





The last thing you want is this to happen...

Crankshaft says, "OM NOMNOMNOMNOMONM BEARINGS" lol
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Old 04-03-2014, 08:55 AM   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KillerBMotorsport View Post

Was the pressure sensor always back there? In the back port it does read lower.
Yes the Steel braided line running to the sender has always been located in that galley plug....before it was fine, now Im seeing lower pressure.

Heres my plan of attack.

1. unplug the oil pres gauge sender from the braided line and hook up a pressure gauge and see what the reading is...
2. Hopefully its the gauge screwing up.
3. If I am still reading the same pressure off the snap on pressure gauge, then I will replace the oil pump.
4. After the oil pump is replaced and if the pressure is STILL off...
5. I will replace the pick up tube with a Killer B pick up.

^^^^ If that all fails then I am going to push the car off a steep cliff and call it a day.


But seriously tho this is how I feel
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Old 04-03-2014, 09:11 AM   #46
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Heres what I dont understand tho.....Im seeing a loos in pressure on the gauge in start up and idle.....while driving I am seeing the exact same pressures cause the motor is revving and making the oil pump spin aka "making pressure"

BUT....if my motor "is" going bad and not producing oil pressure wouldnt I see a loose of pressure while driving as well aka-all through the rpms and not just at idle and start up? But like I said, Im not....so WTF


Like if Im driving the pressure would be lower like 25-40psi
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Old 04-03-2014, 10:09 AM   #47
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No necessarily. The pumps have excessive flow capacity. So say there is a restriction on the inlet side. Instead of bypassing 30% of the oil under normal operation, you may only be bypassing 5%. At idle when the bypass is completely close you will see the actual pump's unregulated output.

OR if the pickup has a small crack, once the RPMs climb the suction may be closing up a crack, but there is not enough suction at idle to pull the crack together. Complete speculation though, but I have had some report fine pressure at cruise, but not at idle.
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Old 12-31-2014, 11:00 AM   #48
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Bumping this because there were three different cars being diagnosed here and none of them came back to tell us what the problem was. Come on, I don't need a cliffhanger!
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Old 01-02-2015, 09:03 AM   #49
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Lol I hate that too. Unfortunately I have nothing to update. At the risk of total destruction (not unfamiliar to me) I kept driving it. It's still holding up at the same levels after 5k+ miles. I may pull it apart this winter to diagnose. I can only guess some debris nailed the bearings or something to that effect.

Disclaimer: Not a smart move folks I just don't really give a ----.
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