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View Poll Results: What should I do next?
Continue with Meth Kit 15 22.06%
Intercooler Spray 3 4.41%
Screw the 2.5iT, swap it for a WRX or STI (Or motor swap) 41 60.29%
Nothing, anything further is going to push the internals too far 9 13.24%
Voters: 68. You may not vote on this poll

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Old 02-22-2012, 09:22 PM   #1
Tafkars
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Default 2008 2.5iT AVO Turbo Kit

Unfortunately, I did not do a write up while I was installing because I was borrowing a friend's storage unit and didn't have much time. However, I did want to mention the particulars about AVO Turbo Kit incase anyone is interested in doing the install.

Please note:
I have never done a forced induction swap before, additionally I must add, that my 2.5i is my first scoob. For anyone who thinks some of the information that I am about to provide is a "no-brainer" please understand, I am posting this for those who may attempt to do this with the same starting knowledge as I had as well as to help myself vent.

Additional note:
If at any point it sounds as if I am speaking negatively against AVO Turboworld, I AM NOT! I am very happy with their products and service, and would recommend them to anyone!


To begin:
The 10+ hour project went very well. The instructions that came with the kit were pretty good. Most of the time working on this was spent trying to figure out what size wrench I needed next. (I would like to stop momentarily to mention, if you are doing this, or about to do this, or are ever working on your car and are not familiar with the full project and the instructions do not cover the WHOLE process, it is best to take your time and do it right, so that you do not break a clip that holds your front bumper skin on so that it is permanently stuck slightly askew.) The instructions could have included the wrench sizes for each part AND ALSO I WISH THE INSTRUCTIONS THAT CAME WITH MY KIT WERE IN COLOR! (If you get a kit, please contact AVO and have them email you the instructions so you can print them in color. The instructions point out specifics in the directions using "color coding" however my instructions were black and white, this really hurt with the wire harness routing) and I wish I had done the write up so that this could have been covered.

THIS IS NOT A WRITE UP!

I wanted to talk about, but unfortunately I had to cover the above first as to help any make a very informed decision, is the "additionals" that aren't brought up, and by "additionals," I mean what I have had to do thus far.

After the whole kit was installed, it was time to take it to a tuner. Luckily I had spoken to one prior to starting the install and had made the tune time with just a couple hours to spare. The first problem we found was the MAP sensor on our cars will not register boost. This was another $100+ that needed to be added. During the tune, a small hair-line fracture was discovered on the block, again, this was my fault, DO NOT RUSH! We had originally thought that the oil supply line was the incorrect line and when the wrong one was reconnected, it was over-tightened, why admit fault to this? To help solidify the point that you need to take your time doing this. Cobb, at the time, did not have a base map for the tuner to work on the car, something was discovered but time was running out so we opted to just do an ECU flash, looking back I wish that I had spent the extra time to work with Cobb. You'll see why below.

Noticing that the main wire harness was very close the very warm turbo, I had purchased a turbo blanket. After about two weeks of casual to heavy driving, the tune and the car ran great. I had purchased the BOV (tuned to recirculate, not atmospheric release) if you forget to tighten the nut down on the top of this, it will rattle loose, and off. Cheap part to replace, but waste of time and money to go find a new nut.

After installing the turbo blanket we decided to run it a little hard again to see how efficient the blanket worked. We made it through the entire 5 mile run and as we were cruising back to go wash our cars, my 2.5iT finally had enough. It stalled out doing 40 mph in 4th gear and I had to immediately pull over. It would not start and it being dark out, I could hardly see anything in the engine bay. Having to work 50+ hours a week I decided to just tow it to the tuner and let him try to diagnose the issue. A call a few days later stated the worst, I needed a new ECU! One of the circuits was clearly fried! Another $580 to add to the list. A few days later with it installed, it was time to tow it to the dealership to get the keys reconnected. Another $45. Still doesn't run. $450 to diagnose at the dealership. Main wire harness (mistakenly run underneath the downpipe as opposed to over top, the instructions were not clear, and we didn't take the time to see if there was another way than underneath) was fried at one point and grounded itself on the DP which is what shorted the ECU in the first place. $300 to fix the wires and re-route them. So showing the break down:

$3200 Turbo kit
$500 Blow off Valve
$450 Tune
$100 Map Sensor
$580 New ECU
$45 Key Program
$450 Electrical Diagnoses
$300 Electrical Fix

$5625 Total cost for my bolt on forced induction

15-20 Total gained whp


$5000+/- Cost for a new STi engine swap

140+/- Total whp gain.




I know that I am not the only one who has done this, and I know I won't be the last. There is still more that I can do (meth kit is next) to help raise boost and gains. However, had I not been so motivated and headstrong to do it the "EASY" way, I might have realized that an engine swap is smarter.


I would like to note, that if you are doing this, and have any questions, or are about to do this, and need some help, advice, or answers PLEASE PM me! I am glad to help.


PS I would like to encourage laughter at my ignorance! I have no choice but to laugh at it now, you might as well too!

PSS I am not an english major so I may not have spelled everything correctly, and some sentence structure may not make complete sense. If you would like to me better clarify something please feel free to comment.

PSSS I will have pictures once I have my car back. Also I will add pictures of Meth kit once I have it installed!


WISH ME LUCK!
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Old 02-23-2012, 12:17 PM   #2
GEE-OTTO
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So great you went with the AVO kit however it sucks you added nearly $1600 to the project due to hastily installing things. Secondly you don't need a new MAP sensor as we have a MAF and it works fine with the kit. Third $450 tune may have been robbery, if you used Tactrix cable you could have sent the stock ECU flash to a tuner he/she would have been able to mimic the stock map from AVO to get you up and running and logging and then a final map for daily operation. Something must be askew if you only gained 15-20 hp the mild tune yields 90+ hp gains and 200 at the wheels.

I hope that you work through your issues and at least be able to enjoy your car with the kit. Several 2.5i guys have had this kit installed and reliably running for over a year and some on 7psi ! The difference i noticed is the time to install. A weekend at best simply to check for fit and finish and methodically install each piece. I would install twice: once to mock it up and see if FMIC piping needs to be lengthened/ shortened, wires moved, things trimmed, second as a final fit. You mentioned cracking the block did you drain back to the pan ? Or are you referring to the oil feed coming out of oil galley on top of the block?

Also did you install the WRX/LGT fuel pump and injectors

If the kit doesn't work out you can sell it pretty quickly on the forums but I would only ever spring for the kit if my car was paid for or you know you only want that car for the next 5-7 years or forever. If i had $5600 cash or credit and wanted to make a move, you are correct in thinking, i would swap for a EJ255/7 or a WRX/LGT/STi/FXT/OBXT

Good luck post up pics and progress as you note them!
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Old 02-23-2012, 07:22 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GEE-OTTO
So great you went with the AVO kit however it sucks you added nearly $1600 to the project due to hastily installing things. Secondly you don't need a new MAP sensor as we have a MAF and it works fine with the kit. Third $450 tune may have been robbery, if you used Tactrix cable you could have sent the stock ECU flash to a tuner he/she would have been able to mimic the stock map from AVO to get you up and running and logging and then a final map for daily operation. Something must be askew if you only gained 15-20 hp the mild tune yields 90+ hp gains and 200 at the wheels.

I hope that you work through your issues and at least be able to enjoy your car with the kit. Several 2.5i guys have had this kit installed and reliably running for over a year and some on 7psi ! The difference i noticed is the time to install. A weekend at best simply to check for fit and finish and methodically install each piece. I would install twice: once to mock it up and see if FMIC piping needs to be lengthened/ shortened, wires moved, things trimmed, second as a final fit. You mentioned cracking the block did you drain back to the pan ? Or are you referring to the oil feed coming out of oil galley on top of the block?

Also did you install the WRX/LGT fuel pump and injectors

If the kit doesn't work out you can sell it pretty quickly on the forums but I would only ever spring for the kit if my car was paid for or you know you only want that car for the next 5-7 years or forever. If i had $5600 cash or credit and wanted to make a move, you are correct in thinking, i would swap for a EJ255/7 or a WRX/LGT/STi/FXT/OBXT

Good luck post up pics and progress as you note them!


,
I'm at 200 whp. I installed the 440cc injectors that AVO shows and I've had a walbro in it for over a year. I was told anything over 4psi was creating knock which is why I ordered the meth kit already.

The oil was feed line was accidentally installed I to the wrong oil pressure sensor. And when the wrong one was reinstalled it was over tightened. That was another mistake, luckily The crack only leaked at really high pressure and was just a dribble so that JB Weld is currently working. Probably another issue later down the line but for now it works.


I don't plan on uninstalling ever. The plan is to keep modding until I need to rebuild the motor and to lower the comp. Ratio to run more boost. The kit is well built and there is much more headroom left on the turbo.


One day it'll be a real nice car but yesterday I just needed to vent and hopefully if someone reads this and is considering it, hopeful,y they can learn from my mistakes.
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Old 02-24-2012, 03:45 AM   #4
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so wait... prior to the install you had 180whp...? That's an astounding amount...

typically a stock 2.5i will see around 120whp depending on the dyno... Your car at 200whp should be right between wrx and sti power levels.

You should post some pictures of the finished installation and your dyno plot if you have it. Curious to see.
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Old 02-24-2012, 09:59 AM   #5
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The 2008 2.5i is 170bhp stock, the WRX 265bhp.
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Old 02-24-2012, 11:20 AM   #6
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Yeah but something is wrong if you only gained "15-20 whp". Like Zefy said, 2.5i's have around 120 WHP stock and now you're probably around 200 WHP, so that's a gain of about 80 WHP.
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Old 02-24-2012, 11:28 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tafkars View Post

15-20 Total gained whp
There is no way you only gained 15-20 whp. Your car had, at most, 120whp before the turbo kit. I believe you're confusing the power to the wheels and crank. 170 at the crank is significantly more than what is put to the wheels. I'm guessing you gained about 80whp with this setup if you're at 200whp now. Which is definitely sweet.
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Old 02-24-2012, 11:59 AM   #8
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You could be absolutely correct. I was getting my "whp" via a Cobb AP. Didn't sound right to me either however, I had done many bushings and mounts so I may have over justified the AP for being correct. Plus a cold air intake and a custom exhaust prior to the turbo.
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Old 02-24-2012, 12:55 PM   #9
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Yeah post kit a 2.5i will have stock LGT/WRX power numbers to the CRANK and put down 195-200 to the wheels.

Well good you plan to stick it out and you'll learn the best tweaks as you drive and tune.

As far as knock over 4psi AVO's test car (still running strong) is a OB with 180K miles on the original motor @ 7 psi no meth. I would skip the meth and get a insanely GOOD tune. The min boost is 5psi if it knocks to the point where it isn't safe/reliable AVO may not have produced it. And the FMIC should combat knock under 10 psi no problem.

Good luck and post pics
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Old 02-24-2012, 01:31 PM   #10
Tafkars
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GEE-OTTO
Yeah post kit a 2.5i will have stock LGT/WRX power numbers to the CRANK and put down 195-200 to the wheels.

Well good you plan to stick it out and you'll learn the best tweaks as you drive and tune.

As far as knock over 4psi AVO's test car (still running strong) is a OB with 180K miles on the original motor @ 7 psi no meth. I would skip the meth and get a insanely GOOD tune. The min boost is 5psi if it knocks to the point where it isn't safe/reliable AVO may not have produced it. And the FMIC should combat knock under 10 psi no problem.

Good luck and post pics


I'm starting to wonder if it has anything to do with a possible exhaust leak... I know my friend was getting slight knock when he had an exhaust leak.
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Old 02-24-2012, 01:52 PM   #11
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$500 blow off valve! what!
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Old 02-24-2012, 02:19 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vicious_fishes
$500 blow off valve! what!


$299 actually.. Sorry
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Old 02-24-2012, 03:10 PM   #13
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got any pics?? I was thinking bout doing the same to my 2.5i
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Old 02-24-2012, 03:43 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JB Subie
got any pics?? I was thinking bout doing the same to my 2.5i


I'll post them Monday night.
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Old 02-24-2012, 04:03 PM   #15
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so you didn't get a pro tune on a dyno it sounds like. It would be a very good idea to go to a good tuner and get a plot. 450 bucks for a road tune is expencive...

Like everyone said, whp vs. chp... chp doesn't take into account the drivetrain losses. Hence, most 2.5i's will actually only see about 120whp on a dyno...

looking forward to some pics!
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Old 02-24-2012, 04:31 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zefy
so you didn't get a pro tune on a dyno it sounds like. It would be a very good idea to go to a good tuner and get a plot. 450 bucks for a road tune is expencive...

Like everyone said, whp vs. chp... chp doesn't take into account the drivetrain losses. Hence, most 2.5i's will actually only see about 120whp on a dyno...

looking forward to some pics!


The $450 was a dyno tune
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Old 02-25-2012, 02:01 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tafkars View Post
The $450 was a dyno tune
oh my bad. Sounded like you only had the AP for getting your HP ratings... Did you get a plot of your dyno runs? If not you should ask your tuner for one and post them up. Really curious to see how the bolt on turbo kit looks on the graph.
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Old 02-25-2012, 10:44 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zefy

oh my bad. Sounded like you only had the AP for getting your HP ratings... Did you get a plot of your dyno runs? If not you should ask your tuner for one and post them up. Really curious to see how the bolt on turbo kit looks on the graph.


I have it here somewhere, I'll post it as a before and after meth inj. Of course I'll include some pics of the car too.
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Old 02-26-2012, 12:34 PM   #19
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what kind of exhaust r u running?
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Old 02-26-2012, 02:16 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JB Subie
what kind of exhaust r u running?
3" from the DP back with a high flow muffler
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Old 02-26-2012, 04:40 PM   #21
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Hey great job man i plan on doing this kit to my 2.5i in a month or two i have a couple questions

First how does the fmic mount to the car? Does it just bolt on?

Second how are the oil lines hooked into the oil supply?

Thanks.

Mark
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Old 02-26-2012, 06:36 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by grimace09
Hey great job man i plan on doing this kit to my 2.5i in a month or two i have a couple questions

First how does the fmic mount to the car? Does it just bolt on?

Second how are the oil lines hooked into the oil supply?

Thanks.

Mark

FMIC: if you look under your car you'll see to plastic rails that are bolted to your bumper skin and on a frame rail the crosses right behind the radiator. You remove these and it bolts to the two spots behind the radiator, there is one more bolt on the rail that the horn connects to. Also, there is a sensor that you just have to turn around underneath the horn but the FMIC was easy as pie. All weld nuts so it bolts right on.

Oil supply: there is an oil sensor that is located underneath your alternator that's threaded into the block. There is a T adapter that comes with the kit that goes back into the threads, the sensor threads back into the T and the third part of the T is your supply line to the turbo that routes underneath your intake manifold. It's a steel braided line. I removed my alternator to put it on, but you might be able to do it without removing it.

Oil return: there is another line that goes from the bottom of your turbo to the upper-side of your oil pan. I removed the headers to better get to this. There is a flat part that faces towards the back pass. Side of the car that you have to punch a hole in. Start small and continue enlarging by using bigger punches until you get just under 5/8". It requires a 5/8" tapering tap to thread this hole. Then you put the heat sleeve over the return oil line and connect the return oil line to the already tightened adapter. Reconnect the headers then the oil lines are done. The tapping and punching part took the longest time to due out of the whole project (not to mention nerve racking).

If you would like I will take pictures of these when I get my car back tomorrow. Also, if you run into a snag when you do this PM me and I can walk you through it.

Happy Subbying!
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Old 02-28-2012, 05:59 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tafkars

FMIC: if you look under your car you'll see to plastic rails that are bolted to your bumper skin and on a frame rail the crosses right behind the radiator. You remove these and it bolts to the two spots behind the radiator, there is one more bolt on the rail that the horn connects to. Also, there is a sensor that you just have to turn around underneath the horn but the FMIC was easy as pie. All weld nuts so it bolts right on.

Oil supply: there is an oil sensor that is located underneath your alternator that's threaded into the block. There is a T adapter that comes with the kit that goes back into the threads, the sensor threads back into the T and the third part of the T is your supply line to the turbo that routes underneath your intake manifold. It's a steel braided line. I removed my alternator to put it on, but you might be able to do it without removing it.

Oil return: there is another line that goes from the bottom of your turbo to the upper-side of your oil pan. I removed the headers to better get to this. There is a flat part that faces towards the back pass. Side of the car that you have to punch a hole in. Start small and continue enlarging by using bigger punches until you get just under 5/8". It requires a 5/8" tapering tap to thread this hole. Then you put the heat sleeve over the return oil line and connect the return oil line to the already tightened adapter. Reconnect the headers then the oil lines are done. The tapping and punching part took the longest time to due out of the whole project (not to mention nerve racking).

If you would like I will take pictures of these when I get my car back tomorrow. Also, if you run into a snag when you do this PM me and I can walk you through it.

Happy Subbying!
Thanks i appreicate it doesnt sound so hard abynore thanks again
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Old 03-16-2012, 02:23 PM   #24
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Last edited by Tafkars; 03-16-2012 at 02:36 PM.
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Old 03-16-2012, 02:38 PM   #25
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