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Old 07-09-2019, 09:19 PM   #126
motorbykemike
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is the a/c on ?


it's hot in pa today
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Old 07-10-2019, 09:39 AM   #127
Garnet Suss
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Default What to do with my '06 OBXT?

Hey folks! Forst of all, thanks to everyone in this thread for all the amazing info. I've learned a lot.

20 years of backyard wrenching but my knowledge of subie and turbo builds is limited. I would really appreciate any advice and guidance. Use whatever terms and explanations you normally do, I'm trying to learn as much as I can. If something is confusing to me I'll ask for clarification.

PROJECT:
2006 OBXT auto with 2" lift, 225/70/16's K02's, custom tubular off road bumper, Spectre CAI, 3" exhaust.



SITUATION/GOALS:
My car runs well but it's a 150k mile EJ255 with120k miles so it'll **** it's pants any second now. Also, I'd like to build the car to be pushing between 300-350hp.
To avoid many hours of crying on the side of the road, and then crying in my garage and then crying on the shower floor with a bottle of whiskey, I want to have my short block rebuilt prior to bolting on power upgrades.
I'm doing this on a very tight budget, but doing it right is my main goal. That being said, frugality is important unless I want to ruin my marriage and end up selling the car(and probably my ass) to afford child support, rent, and probably alcoholism and therapy.

ENGINE BUILD OPTIONS:
-have my current EJ255 bottom end professionally rebuilt then upgrade the top end myself to hit HP goal.

-buy a complete 80k mile EJ257 for 1500usd, have a shop rebuild the bottom end, buy and bolt on power gains and sell my EJ255 for 1000-1500usd to recoup some funds, then upgrade top end myself to hit HP goal.

-source a JDM engine with strong internals to avoid costly bottom end build, upgrade top end myself to hit HP goal and sell off whatever parts from either engine I don't use.
*just learned of this option last nigut because of this thread

-drop in a 3.0H6 or 3.6, no rebuild, add a turbo, have it tuned and call it done?
*I know virtually nothing about this option.


What would you do to get a very reliable 350-ish horsepower boxer without dropping 6k USD on a crate engine? Pros and cons of each option?

The car is our daily driver so I have to keep it as an automatic. I'll be installing the 2007-2009 LGT paddle shifters to make driving a 350hp auto a bit more fun.

Thanks in advance for any help!

-Garnet
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Old 07-10-2019, 10:04 AM   #128
Turpid Porpoise
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Garnet Suss View Post
ENGINE BUILD OPTIONS:
-have my current EJ255 bottom end professionally rebuilt then upgrade the top end myself to hit HP goal. It is cheaper to buy new case halves than have your existing case halves machined.

-buy a complete 80k mile EJ257 for 1500usd, have a shop rebuild the bottom end, buy and bolt on power gains and sell my EJ255 for 1000-1500usd to recoup some funds, then upgrade top end myself to hit HP goal. Again, It is cheaper to buy new case halves than have your existing case halves machined.

-source a JDM engine with strong internals to avoid costly bottom end build, upgrade top end myself to hit HP goal and sell off whatever parts from either engine I don't use.
*just learned of this option last nigut because of this thread

-drop in a 3.0H6 or 3.6, no rebuild, add a turbo, have it tuned and call it done?
*I know virtually nothing about this option.
Most complicated option you have listed

What would you do to get a very reliable 350-ish horsepower boxer without dropping 6k USD on a crate engine? Pros and cons of each option?

The car is our daily driver so I have to keep it as an automatic. I'll be installing the 2007-2009 LGT paddle shifters to make driving a 350hp auto a bit more fun.

Thanks in advance for any help!

-Garnet

My responses are in bold in your quote. My honest recommendation is to buy an IAG or Outfront Stage 1 shortblock, have your original heads cleaned and resurfaced, buy an FSM and reassemble the longblock yourself to save money. This is probably your cheapest option by far. Buying a core and then building it is more expensive than buying an OTS shortblock from IAG or Outfront. I don't know about your specific chassis but I do know dropping JDM motors into these cars isn't exactly plug and play. Don't even attempt the H6 unless you know how to fabricate and wire.
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Old 07-10-2019, 01:19 PM   #129
SnotNose
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Originally Posted by motorbykemike View Post
is the a/c on ?


it's hot in pa today
No. AC and lights are off.
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Old 07-10-2019, 01:57 PM   #130
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I have a 2009 Forester xt that currently has the ej20x swapped in it. Bought it used unknowing of this swap and have went through and fixed some issues that were not rocket science. Broken wastegate actuator. Spark plugs. Coil on cylinder 4. Boost control solenoid replaced. Deleted secondary air system with blockoffs and took it to a tuner where he turned off codes from secondary air delete, backed off timing one degree and pulled my boost to 14psi since I was getting some intermittent knock and boost spikes around 17psi at full throttle. Everything checked out but now, 3 months later, my reading with btssm from Bluetooth adapter is reading vacuum at -3psi one second and going to -12psi the next. Has noticeable power difference when it reads -12psi at idle. Any idea? Could it be from the swap? Uses no oil and idles a little high when cold. I'm new to this car but I have some mechanical

knowledge and no tuning experience. Thanks in advance.
Intermittent vacuum leak? It's odd that it didn't do it at first after the swap, but does now.
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Old 07-10-2019, 02:02 PM   #131
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Turpid Porpoise View Post
My responses are in bold in your quote. My honest recommendation is to buy an IAG or Outfront Stage 1 shortblock, have your original heads cleaned and resurfaced, buy an FSM and reassemble the longblock yourself to save money. This is probably your cheapest option by far. Buying a core and then building it is more expensive than buying an OTS shortblock from IAG or Outfront. I don't know about your specific chassis but I do know dropping JDM motors into these cars isn't exactly plug and play. Don't even attempt the H6 unless you know how to fabricate and wire.
I agree, especially if you are looking for more power than stock, I'm enjoying the JDM route, but it hasn't always been smooth. And I'm sure a professional tuner could safely get more out of it than I have. But it's ultimately a used motor with unknown service history. So pushing it is a bit of a gamble.
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Old 07-10-2019, 07:57 PM   #132
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Intermittent vacuum leak? It's odd that it didn't do it at first after the swap, but does now.
Sorry, I should have been more clear. It had the motor in it when I bought the car. Someone else did the swap and I was unknowing of any of it when I purchased it. I was thinking more along the line of bad sensor or wiring and not actual vacuum leak. Is it common for a leak to come and go very quickly? It doesn't fade up and down, it jumps from 3 to 10 and so forth. Most of the time it stays around -3.
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Old 07-10-2019, 08:17 PM   #133
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Sorry, I should have been more clear. It had the motor in it when I bought the car. Someone else did the swap and I was unknowing of any of it when I purchased it. I was thinking more along the line of bad sensor or wiring and not actual vacuum leak. Is it common for a leak to come and go very quickly? It doesn't fade up and down, it jumps from 3 to 10 and so forth. Most of the time it stays around -3.
You could try to replace the map sensor and see if the issue resolves. A leak wouldnt show itself with large swings like you are seeing
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Old 07-10-2019, 08:34 PM   #134
Mreed6360
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Originally Posted by SnotNose View Post
Sorry, I should have been more clear. It had the motor in it when I bought the car. Someone else did the swap and I was unknowing of any of it when I purchased it. I was thinking more along the line of bad sensor or wiring and not actual vacuum leak. Is it common for a leak to come and go very quickly? It doesn't fade up and down, it jumps from 3 to 10 and so forth. Most of the time it stays around -3.
So at idle you generally have only 3psi of vacuum?
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Old 07-10-2019, 08:39 PM   #135
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Originally Posted by Turpid Porpoise View Post
You could try to replace the map sensor and see if the issue resolves. A leak wouldnt show itself with large swings like you are seeing
The map sensor sounds like a good thing to check, you should have much more vacuum at idle.
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Old 07-10-2019, 09:36 PM   #136
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Originally Posted by Mreed6360 View Post
The map sensor sounds like a good thing to check, you should have much more vacuum at idle.
Ok. That's where I will begin. Hoping I can find a used one locally and see if my numbers change. Thanks!
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Old 07-10-2019, 09:42 PM   #137
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Originally Posted by Mreed6360 View Post
So at idle you generally have only 3psi of vacuum?
Yes, idle at 180 degrees coolant temp is at -3psi vacuum. On cold start it begins reading as +3 psi boost then slowly falls to -3psi vacuum. Crazy since it should not be boosting on cold start. Car smells really rich on cold start as well.
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Old 07-11-2019, 06:48 AM   #138
George22002
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No, I just went 2 teeth CCW, if I had adjustable cams I would go 2 teeth ccw and rotate adjustable cam cw 2 degrees to make it 53 like the 07 sti.
Here is a pic of the dyno run, I am getting about 240 hp out of the motor, the jdm legacy gt was rated at 275 hp with the quad avcs and twin scroll turbo using the ej20x, I am only off by about 35 hp off considering I am using the small td04 turbo.
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Old 07-11-2019, 07:04 AM   #139
Turpid Porpoise
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Originally Posted by SnotNose View Post
Yes, idle at 180 degrees coolant temp is at -3psi vacuum. On cold start it begins reading as +3 psi boost then slowly falls to -3psi vacuum. Crazy since it should not be boosting on cold start. Car smells really rich on cold start as well.
It probably smells rich because the ECU is being told there is 3 psi of positive pressure in the manifold so the car is dumping fuel to compensate.
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Old 07-11-2019, 10:59 AM   #140
SnotNose
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Originally Posted by Turpid Porpoise View Post
It probably smells rich because the ECU is being told there is 3 psi of positive pressure in the manifold so the car is dumping fuel to compensate.
Great insight. Makes more sense to me now. I will be on the hunt for a sensor. Thanks!
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Old 07-11-2019, 09:49 PM   #141
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Originally Posted by George22002 View Post
Here is a pic of the dyno run, I am getting about 240 hp out of the motor, the jdm legacy gt was rated at 275 hp with the quad avcs and twin scroll turbo using the ej20x, I am only off by about 35 hp off considering I am using the small td04 turbo.


not seeing a pic of the dyno chart

thats 275 at the crank

240 at the tires is in the ballpark with a td04



deets on my rig in this thread somewhere , it made 275-285 awhp , conservatively tuned , with a 40 lb/min tdo5h and some other tweeks and massaging
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Old 07-20-2019, 09:31 PM   #142
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Great insight. Makes more sense to me now. I will be on the hunt for a sensor. Thanks!
I got a used map sensor and it reads exactly the same. I plugged the purge valves to see if it made a difference but it didn't. I pulled the vacuum hose off while running and the map sensor reads +7psi. Confirmed hose is indeed sucking and not boosting. I unplugged the barometric sensor to see the impact when the vacuum line was unhooked from map and it went from +7psi to -7psi. Makes sense since the baro sensor should read around 14psi and be subtracted from the map reading from what I've read. So now I'm not sure what the chances are that I have two bad map sensors or a wiring issue. Anyone experienced this?
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Old 07-23-2019, 04:45 PM   #143
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Are you guys using the 2.5 timing belt and components
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Old 07-23-2019, 06:04 PM   #144
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I did, they are the same as far as I know.
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Old 07-23-2019, 06:38 PM   #145
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I did, they are the same as far as I know.
Ok good because this is the last thing i ha e to order before it goes in the car
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Old 07-27-2019, 04:45 PM   #146
motorbykemike
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same timing belt kit

if you have an ej20y it will have an oil cooler so it uses a 2004 up sti water pump

if its a ej20x they have no oil cooler so use a pump from 2008 wrx? I think ?

but I wont replace a Subaru water pump if its not broken

Last edited by motorbykemike; 08-31-2019 at 08:12 AM.
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Old 07-31-2019, 09:46 PM   #147
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What plugs and gap are you guys using on these ej20 motors?
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Old 08-25-2019, 12:47 PM   #148
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What downpipe are folks using? I'm having issues finding somthing
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Old 08-26-2019, 08:39 AM   #149
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look on ebay for a stubby or a flange to fab a down pipe from
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Old 08-29-2019, 07:25 AM   #150
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What downpipe are folks using? I'm having issues finding somthing

Hereís some legit options for you if your made of money. LOL!
Auto trans:
https://avoturbo.com/exhaust-catted-...s1303h3gbmetj/
Manual Trans:
https://avoturbo.com/exhaust-catted-...s1303g3gbmetj/
Just the flange:
https://avoturbo.com/exhaust-turbo-o...s1303g3la001t/

The rest of us built our own out of the flange that came with the engine and our factory DP, or in my case, my HKS DP.

Now, this is my original setup and Iím rebuilding it soon. The sensor bungs were all wrong. The Wideband is too close to the turbo and reads wrong, so Iím plugging that bung and moving down stream more. The EGT needs the correct bung to seat and seal properly. Both are ready to be installed properly this time around. Also, the gold/orange paint was not strong enough for the heat and burnt a lot off. I grabbed the wrong can by accident. So the whole thing is getting rebuilt, repainted with 1200į paint, and wrapped with header wrap again. Uggh.

Last edited by Zadok; 08-29-2019 at 07:41 AM.
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