Street Mod.

[Homemade WRX]

Yeah, I'm kind of up to speed on his build, from when he bought rods from me.

Congrats on the good showing!

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[Thorium06]

I guess this is going to be my new home, hello there

[subydude]

Originally Posted by Thorium06

I guess this is going to be my new home, hello there

Finally.

[*Ulimited*]

Originally Posted by subydude

Yeah, I was in Ross's car. It has a few of my parts on it and it's getting there, but not the same as mine. My only goal was to trophy in it, so I'm happy that happened. Rain on day 1 made it more of an AWD show with Dallas making the right choice and going to A7's instead of wets. Stainback and I stayed on the wets and it hurt us a bit. Mike and Bill had a good showing as well and I think their car is coming along too. Next year should be a hoot with everyone upping their game. Just hoping for two dry days this time instead of drying conditions with me being first driver

Still kicking myself for not switching the the A7s for my last run. Oh well you live and you learn

[gti_speed]

Originally Posted by Thorium06

I guess this is going to be my new home, hello there

Go on...

[101rs]

Originally Posted by *Ulimited*

Still kicking myself for not switching the the A7s for my last run. Oh well you live and you learn

Was a tough decision at the time, was sort of glad I didn't have to make it by only having a set of A7s with me. I would be happy with a redo of Wednesday, really dropped the ball the second day.

[subydude]

I mean, I was happy to be a tenth in front Wednesday just for the ribbing.

[gti_speed]

I'm absolutely killing the outside shoulders on my A7's, like seeing cords in some spots (where pebbles dug in) after 30runs bad. I was running lower psi like around 33hot which I thought was ok with these. I have -3.5deg of camber with a 295/30/18 on a 18x9.5. Was talking to some SSR guys and they are at like 30psi in the C6GS and can't be that much lighter than me at 3150ish lbs. Going to run 35psi with em flipped and see if that helps, I don't feel like I'm really over-driving them.

[subydude]

Originally Posted by gti_speed

I'm absolutely killing the outside shoulders on my A7's, like seeing cords in some spots (where pebbles dug in) after 30runs bad. I was running lower psi like around 33hot which I thought was ok with these. I have -3.5deg of camber with a 295/30/18 on a 18x9.5. Was talking to some SSR guys and they are at like 30psi in the C6GS and can't be that much lighter than me at 3150ish lbs. Going to run 35psi with em flipped and see if that helps, I don't feel like I'm really over-driving them.

Hoosier will recommend high 30's for a front heavy strut car. The corvette has a SLA suspension so it's gaining camber through the stroke vs yours that's losing camber. Without camber fixes on your car you'd want way into the 4's or even low 5's for camber to actually use the tire correctly.

[Thorium06]

Originally Posted by gti_speed

Go on...

I lost compression in cylinder 4. This will be the fourth motor that has failed while running in STU. Its been a pretty frustrating cycle of breaking things and having to replace them over and over again with the same parts that will also break. I am also quite tired of mixing fuels when I have easy access to E85 all over the state. I bought a fuel system as step one.

[gti_speed]

That sucks man sorry to hear. How long were they lasting in STU trim?

Also, how deep into the pool are you diving?

[Thorium06]

Originally Posted by gti_speed

That sucks man sorry to hear. How long were they lasting in STU trim?

Also, how deep into the pool are you diving?

Not very long unfortunately. I lost two early on from oil starvation. I was not comfortable at all with the octane limits and feared I would lose one this season, and that turned out to be true.

Im not diving in too deeply right of the bat. The plan is to basically do an ASP build, but since nobody actually runs in that class, I will be running SM locally.

[subydude]

Originally Posted by Thorium06

Not very long unfortunately. I lost two early on from oil starvation. I was not comfortable at all with the octane limits and feared I would lose one this season, and that turned out to be true.

Im not diving in too deeply right of the bat. The plan is to basically do an ASP build, but since nobody actually runs in that class, I will be running SM locally.

In all reality the suspension setup you have can be mostly reused, although you'll change spring rates around for the aftermarket diffs (I'd recommend the OSG's) you'll need and whatever wing you choose. Do a 2015 STi steering rack for that sweet 13:1 goodness, and because it's cheaper than the other ones. 18x11 +20 XXR 531's are the droid you're looking for regarding wheels. Cheap, strong, but heavy. A lot of people have used them for years with 315/30/18 A7's without issue.

Things in order of speed:

1. Diffs
2. Big tires
3. Aero
4. Tweak suspension to match
5. Geometry corrections
6. Quick steering rack to keep up
7. Power
8. Gearing fixes
9. Lightness (although most of this is just removing stuff or skinning things)

I've seen a well setup stock turbo STi whip the pants off a much more powerful STi that was missing one of the top 3 items. Granted, power does make a big difference, but without the other pieces to match I wouldn't even worry about it.

[Homemade WRX]

^^^looks like a good and simple recipe to start with.

Holy cow, those XXR's are CHEAP!!! ~$180/corner. I think I'd still rather go Enkei though they only got to 10.5" wide.

[Thorium06]

Originally Posted by subydude

In all reality the suspension setup you have can be mostly reused, although you'll change spring rates around for the aftermarket diffs (I'd recommend the OSG's) you'll need and whatever wing you choose. Do a 2015 STi steering rack for that sweet 13:1 goodness, and because it's cheaper than the other ones. 18x11 +20 XXR 531's are the droid you're looking for regarding wheels. Cheap, strong, but heavy. A lot of people have used them for years with 315/30/18 A7's without issue.

Things in order of speed:

1. Diffs
2. Big tires
3. Aero
4. Tweak suspension to match
5. Geometry corrections
6. Quick steering rack to keep up
7. Power
8. Gearing fixes
9. Lightness (although most of this is just removing stuff or skinning things)

I've seen a well setup stock turbo STi whip the pants off a much more powerful STi that was missing one of the top 3 items. Granted, power does make a big difference, but without the other pieces to match I wouldn't even worry about it.

Thanks, my list was actually pretty similar to this. My plan of attack this off season is essentially:

1. Fuel system (e85, top feed conversion, FPR, Pump, TGV deletes ect)
2. OSG rear diff
3. Fit 285s, mainly because I have lots of them
4. SM legal aero that I can remove if I want to run ASP

I would like to do the rack and some other things, but I am not sure I can fit that into the budget this off season. I put in a brand new OEM rack last year too, so the motivation is low lol

[subydude]

Originally Posted by Homemade WRX

^^^looks like a good and simple recipe to start with.

Holy cow, those XXR's are CHEAP!!! ~$180/corner. I think I'd still rather go Enkei though they only got to 10.5" wide.

The width is worth it IMO and it saves money for other things.

Originally Posted by Thorium06

Thanks, my list was actually pretty similar to this. My plan of attack this off season is essentially:

1. Fuel system (e85, top feed conversion, FPR, Pump, TGV deletes ect)
2. OSG rear diff
3. Fit 285s, mainly because I have lots of them
4. SM legal aero that I can remove if I want to run ASP

I would like to do the rack and some other things, but I am not sure I can fit that into the budget this off season. I put in a brand new OEM rack last year too, so the motivation is low lol

The setup will change again when you do the front diff. The rear diff solves about 80% of the hopping while the front does another 15%. You can't ever fully solve it, but 95% with all the other benefits means it's REALLY good when you do both.

I'd still roll an 18x11 XXR with a 285. You'll like how it feels better than on a 10.

The aero is "easy" if you use push pins for attachment vs bolts. My front splitter goes on in about 1 minute and comes off in 30 seconds, but is strong enough to hold all the weight. The rear I'd suggest having a spare trunk lid as that's the easiest way to swap around.

[Thorium06]

My hopping has actually gone away after the shock change. I really don't want it to come back. Did you do a front diff on yours?

[gti_speed]

Isn't the 285/30/18 Hoosier going to be a little short? Or is there such thing as a 285/35/18 if you order from them direct? I guess with the stock turbo you'd still be in boost when shifting to third.

Also not sure what all is involved with it but you might want to look into a surge tank dealio for fueling instead of a traditional fuel pump upgrade. I get fuel cuts when I'm under a half tank in some high G situations, haven't seen it yet during autox under a half tank, but I definitely get it on the big track which kind of sucks since I have to carry an extra jug or two of ethanol with me. Might save you a couple hundred bucks down the road if you don't need to buy a fuel pump as part of that.

Another thing I've been thinking about trying since I'm avoiding fender hacking for now is to just get 315's up front and run a reverse stagger with the 275's that fit fine in the back. The 315/30/18's match up almost perfectly to the 275/35/18's height wise.

[Homemade WRX]

Originally Posted by subydude

The width is worth it IMO and it saves money for other things.

You must really like that half an inch.
Posting just for those that might not know.

XXR 531
18x11 +20 is 27.3 lbs @ $190/wheel

Enkei NT03+M
18x10.5 +30 is 21.0 lbs @ $350/wheel

Enkei RPF1
18x10.5 +15 is 19.05 lbs @ $385/wheel

[subydude]

Originally Posted by Homemade WRX

You must really like that half an inch.
Posting just for those that might not know.

XXR 531
18x11 +20 is 27.3 lbs @ $190/wheel

Enkei NT03+M
18x10.5 +30 is 21.0 lbs @ $350/wheel

Enkei RPF1
18x10.5 +15 is 19.05 lbs @ $385/wheel

In the grand scheme, it suits the 315 way better and having a happy tire is worth more than 6 lbs per wheel (at autox). On a 285 I'd go for the lighter wheel. Generally, width is a bit more important than weight until you talk about stupid heavy like 35 lbs.

Again, only at autox, and mostly in SM where we can make a **** ton of power. Yes, lighter weight wheels help a bunch of other things, but generally speaking width is king.

Also:

Volk ZE40
18x12 +20 is 20.9 lbs @ $878.75

[Homemade WRX]

Oh, I'm aware you can always spend more. I was just pointing out that 9 lbs for 0.5" is a big unsprung weight trade off, but if the grip and the happy tire is big enough of a trade-off, then it is. You would know.

I'm not even entertaining the thought of an SM build.

[speedyHAM]

I'm rebuilding an engine for my car. I'm thinking of going dry sump. I'm thinking pulling 1.8G sustained through corners might have killed my last setup. Any thoughts? Suggestions? Thanks.

[subydude]

I think it's never a bad idea if you have the scratch and ability. On mine at 1.6-1.7 sustained and peaks in the 2.2 range the bearings look fine on the "standard" killer b sump/pickup/windage tray and an IAG AOS.

Without knowing what setup you're running I can't really comment other than above.

[Homemade WRX]

Sean, are you running an accusump? Which pan and windage tray are you running?

I've always though a good pan and accusump can go a long way for oiling insurance.

[speedyHAM]

Originally Posted by Homemade WRX

Sean, are you running an accusump? Which pan and windage tray are you running?

I've always though a good pan and accusump can go a long way for oiling insurance.

I was just running a stock oil pan. Considering the extent of the destruction I am thinking about other options. I've also heard that a dry sump system can gain ~3% on power. Good investment for power and longevity.