The NASIOC Oil Selection Guide

[EngineHacker]

Originally Posted by saikitjk

would you please recommend some 5w30 options other than Liqui Moly 5w40? 18 STI completely stock and having hard time decide between amsoil and liquid moly.

Its really just preference man. People will make this very scientific but the bottom line is as long as it meets the build spec it really doesn't matter one bit. If you want to keep it safe, just stick with Mobile 1 and step up to M1 5W40 if you want to beat on it. I've seen an 700hp eagle talon running on nothing but Valvoline 10W-30 conventional. The owner even admitted to sometimes just buying what ever he could find on sale in a 30-40 weight.

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[EngineHacker]

Originally Posted by Bowl-O-Chilli

Amsoil

Kind of expensive and unavailable.

[Bowl-O-Chilli]

Originally Posted by EngineHacker

Kind of expensive and unavailable.

It's actually reasonably priced & their Signature Series protects 4-5x better than most synthetic oils not to mention all of it's other great qualities. Everything they sell is the best you can find. All you have 2do is sign up as a distributor/dealer & you get a much better price.

[EngineHacker]

Originally Posted by Bowl-O-Chilli

It's actually reasonably priced & their Signature Series protects 4-5x better than most synthetic oils not to mention all of it's other great qualities. Everything they sell is the best you can find. All you have 2do is sign up as a distributor/dealer & you get a much better price.

I was also on that bandwagon a few years ago. Enjoy the brainwashing.

[Bowl-O-Chilli]

I'm not sure what you're getting at.

[tramp]

Originally Posted by Bowl-O-Chilli

It's actually reasonably priced & their Signature Series protects 4-5x better than most synthetic oils not to mention all of it's other great qualities. Everything they sell is the best you can find. All you have 2do is sign up as a distributor/dealer & you get a much better price.

Got any independent proof of that? I didn't think so.

[08SpecB_DE]

I didn't feel like sifting through 11 pages but has anyone used Pentosin in their car? It's a European spec oil but I'm curious to try it. My co-worker has an Audi and he sweats by it. We stock it at the shop so I'm thinking about giving it a shot. I've been using gtx high mileage and can't say I'm burning oil any quicker than I normally do and with 110k on the clock, I dont know if I want to switch over to full synthetic now.

[EngineHacker]

Originally Posted by Bowl-O-Chilli

I'm not sure what you're getting at.

Amsoil has a habbit of claiming their oil is special because you can run it for 25k or what ever. What they don't mention is that you can only do that in a vehicle that doesn't burn any oil (most vehicles do). You can probably run any A3/B4 synthetic for 25k miles if none of it gets burned.

[Bowl-O-Chilli]

Honestly, I burn a whole lot less oil using Amsoil not to mention it holds up to whatever I throw at it. In my 500hp diesel running an oil bypass system I've gone 50K+ miles with many more miles to go.

[bluesubie]

Originally Posted by 08SpecB_DE

I didn't feel like sifting through 11 pages but has anyone used Pentosin in their car? It's a European spec oil but I'm curious to try it. My co-worker has an Audi and he sweats by it. We stock it at the shop so I'm thinking about giving it a shot. I've been using gtx high mileage and can't say I'm burning oil any quicker than I normally do and with 110k on the clock, I dont know if I want to switch over to full synthetic now.

Brand doesn't matter. Just look for oil with good specs. Hard to beat Porsche and MB specs and most Wal-Marts carry three 0W40's for $25-$30 for 5 qts. that meet all of the Euro specs (except that M1 no longer meets BMW LL). Go for the Pentosin if you can get it that cheap.

Although you might want to go with a High Mileage synthetic like Mobil 1 10W30 since you've used conventional for so long. A typical Euro oil may start cleaning up some sludge and you may get leaks from your gaskets/seals. There's also a lot to be said for sticking with what you've been doing since you don't have any issues.

[bluesubie]

Originally Posted by Bowl-O-Chilli

Honestly, I burn a whole lot less oil using Amsoil not to mention it holds up to whatever I throw at it.

As a user of a LOT of brands, including Amsoil as a PC, the benefit of running Amsoil isn't the same today as it was only 5 years ago due to huge improvements in base oils and additives and other oils closing the performance gap.

I used Signature Series and it wasn't a good fit for my application. It had decent amounts of anti-wear additives, and boatloads of calcium for extended drains, but still a so-so HTHS and KV like any typical GF5 5W30. If I ran SS today, I would use the 0W40 but it doesn't make much sense to me if I have to pay an annual fee to get a discount and can get 0W40 from Wal-Mart or Amazon for <$30.

As current oil manufacturers/blenders are scrambling to reformulate their oils due to LSPI and intake valve deposits, Amsoil has followed suit and reformulated their Signature Series:

https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ub...ew_formulation

Lower calcium, ZDDP, and TBN, but at least a nice dose of the multi-functional additives moly and boron.

[fuelMuncher]

Originally Posted by bluesubie

Brand doesn't matter. Just look for oil with good specs. Hard to beat Porsche and MB specs and most Wal-Marts carry three 0W40's for $25-$30 for 5 qts. that meet all of the Euro specs (except that M1 no longer meets BMW LL). Go for the Pentosin if you can get it that cheap.

Although you might want to go with a High Mileage synthetic like Mobil 1 10W30 since you've used conventional for so long. A typical Euro oil may start cleaning up some sludge and you may get leaks from your gaskets/seals. There's also a lot to be said for sticking with what you've been doing since you don't have any issues.

I’ve read a lot of oil advice over the years on NASIOC, and this is the most succinct and lucid example I have ever encountered.

[EngineHacker]

Originally Posted by Bowl-O-Chilli

Honestly, I burn a whole lot less oil using Amsoil not to mention it holds up to whatever I throw at it. In my 500hp diesel running an oil bypass system I've gone 50K+ miles with many more miles to go.

Well, if that works for you so be it. Also, your Diesel probably has a huge sump, I am willing to bet any cheap synthetic would last just as long. One day this debate will be moot. We'll be arguing about which LiPo cells are the best for our electric vehicles and why the dielectric material in brand x produces less voltage spikes on discharge.

[I.Wrench.4.A.Living]

Originally Posted by EngineHacker

Well, if that works for you so be it. Also, your Diesel probably has a huge sump, I am willing to bet any cheap synthetic would last just as long. One day this debate will be moot. We'll be arguing about which LiPo cells are the best for our electric vehicles and why the dielectric material in brand x produces less voltage spikes on discharge.

I await that day.

[Rowrx11]

I'm currently using motul x-cess 5w40 in my 2017 sti. Now I can not find this oil .. So i'm between redline 5w40, valvoline, fush or liquimoly.

what do you recomend me ? I only have borla catback and rce yellows.

[ayau]

With all this talk about low speed pre ignition (LSPI), how do the HD oils compare, e.g., T6, etc.?

Does low level of calcium indicate that the oil reduces LSPI?

The mainstream 5w30 oils are all approved for LSPI and SN Plus, but the HD oils don't have the same approval.

[fredrik94087]

Originally Posted by ayau

With all this talk about low speed pre ignition (LSPI), how do the HD oils compare, e.g., T6, etc.?

Does low level of calcium indicate that the oil reduces LSPI?

The mainstream 5w30 oils are all approved for LSPI and SN Plus, but the HD oils don't have the same approval.

I ran T6 in my WRX. I ran RL 10w40. I ran Mobil1 15w50. Never had an issue.

However, I kept a 2500 mile OCI.

[bluesubie]

Originally Posted by ayau

With all this talk about low speed pre ignition (LSPI), how do the HD oils compare, e.g., T6, etc.?

Does low level of calcium indicate that the oil reduces LSPI?

The mainstream 5w30 oils are all approved for LSPI and SN Plus, but the HD oils don't have the same approval.

The Subaru 5W-30 still has high calcium. If they reformulate it, don’t expect it for another 6-12 months. They were also late to the API SN party as well. And FWIW, Subaru Japan still allows high SAPS 0W-30 and 5W-40 in DIT’s.

An alternative for those that want a robust lower SAPS oil is Motul X-clean 5W-40. And while it’s technically still high SAPS, Castrol 0W-40 has less calcium and ZDDP than most other 40 grade oils.

I expect other reduced SAPS 40 grades to be popping up in 2018. I think there is an ACEA C3 M1 0W-40 ESP in Europe now.

[ayau]

Originally Posted by bluesubie

The Subaru 5W-30 still has high calcium. If they reformulate it, don’t expect it for another 6-12 months. They were also late to the API SN party as well. And FWIW, Subaru Japan still allows high SAPS 0W-30 and 5W-40 in DIT’s.

An alternative for those that want a robust lower SAPS oil is Motul X-clean 5W-40. And while it’s technically still high SAPS, Castrol 0W-40 has less calcium and ZDDP than most other 40 grade oils.

I expect other reduced SAPS 40 grades to be popping up in 2018. I think there is an ACEA C3 M1 0W-40 ESP in Europe now.

Here's the recently reformulated T6.

https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ub..._5W40_CJ-4/SM_

Calcium went up to 2,xxx. It appears that's a pretty average level.

For my application (90% street driven), Mobil 1 5W30 Dexos 1 Gen 2 might be the better option, given talks about LSPI.

[bluesubie]

Originally Posted by ayau

Here's the recently reformulated T6.



https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ub..._5W40_CJ-4/SM_



Calcium went up to 2,xxx. It appears that's a pretty average level.



For my application (90% street driven), Mobil 1 5W30 Dexos 1 Gen 2 might be the better option, given talks about LSPI.

Or RT6 5W-30 MV if you don’t want to run a oil that shears to a 20 grade.

[ayau]

Originally Posted by bluesubie

Or RT6 5W-30 MV if you don't want to run a oil that shears to a 20 grade.

What's the availability like for the T6 5w30? I haven't seen any Walmart's carry them. I'm assuming they have lower calcium levels?

Edit:
Looks like the 5w30 has slightly lower calcium.

https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ub..._Multi-Vehicle

Looks like this is the oil to have if you want a less shearing 5w30 oil.

[bluesubie]

Winner winner chicken dinner! You can order RT6 5W-30 MV from NAPA and O’Reilly’s.

[_ryuujin_]

I'm not sure if this is right place to ask, has any noticed that pennzoil plat doesn't make a 5w30 anymore. The only pennzoil plat that is in 5w30 is the Euro L or high mileage ver. There are still 5w30 out there but at crazy prices.

[bluesubie]

Originally Posted by _ryuujin_

I'm not sure if this is right place to ask, has any noticed that pennzoil plat doesn't make a 5w30 anymore. The only pennzoil plat that is in 5w30 is the Euro L or high mileage ver. There are still 5w30 out there but at crazy prices.

Try google.

[_ryuujin_]

i have. i usually try to google and search before i post. maybe i suck at searching this particular topic. Just trying to see if anyone else is seeing the same thing or not in their area. cause i've looked been 3 walmarts here and nothing but euro L in 5w30