The NASIOC Oil Selection Guide

[bluesubie]

Could be something to do with Pennzoil moving to the updated SN+ spec.

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Pennzoil-...-5-qt/55291206

https://www.amazon.com/Pennzoil-Plat.../dp/B000ETXX2O

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[_ryuujin_]

oh damn i forgot the ultras still existed, havent seen them in while

[bluesubie]

Originally Posted by _ryuujin_

oh damn i forgot the ultras still existed, havent seen them in while

Shell rebrands so much it’s hard to keep track. This is for the API SN+ I mentioned:

https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forum..._SN_Plus_&_0W-

[cerbomark]

Been reading so many links I hope this is a valid question for this post.
2.0 turbo FA DIT engine oil. Seems that an oil with a ACEN of c3 or c4 would be best as far as carbon buildup. (all other thing s aside like weights).
If this is so what brand that is readily available? The Mobile 1 I currently use does not fit the c3/c4 category.
Edit/ or I see an A5 or B5 might help with less sulfur to lower buildup?? Don t know , I m asking.

[bluesubie]

Originally Posted by cerbomark

Been reading so many links I hope this is a valid question for this post.
2.0 turbo FA DIT engine oil. Seems that an oil with a ACEN of c3 or c4 would be best as far as carbon buildup. (all other thing s aside like weights).
If this is so what brand that is readily available? The Mobile 1 I currently use does not fit the c3/c4 category.
Edit/ or I see an A5 or B5 might help with less sulfur to lower buildup?? Don t know , I m asking.

It depends what you mean by readily available? I can get Motul X-clean from my buddy’s Subaru shop which is 20 minutes away so that’s readily available for me. I’m also an Amazon Prime member so two day delivery on Prime items. A5/B5 is good although it’s still a GF5 oil that has a lower HTHS than C3.

The new Rotella T6 5W-30 MV has reduced ZDDP and an additive pack similar to C3 oils and can currently be ordered from NAPA or O’reilly’s.

[slow.wagon]

Oil experts, what's your take on M1 15-50 ? I've always wondered what a decent alternative would be. Sometimes M1 15-50 gets kind of expensive or unavailable. Before you scream at me for running a 15W-50, please understand I don't drive my car in in cold temps. Its literally never seen a real cold start and probably never will.

[Gallaticus]

Does anyone have any positive or negative experiences using Amsoil in the 09 WRXs? I've always used Amsoil in all my vehicles and am a loyalist to the brand so I'd like to use it in the WRX but wanted to get some input on other people's experiences with it first. Thanks!

[bluesubie]

Originally Posted by slow.wagon

Oil experts, what's your take on M1 15-50 ? I've always wondered what a decent alternative would be. Sometimes M1 15-50 gets kind of expensive or unavailable. Before you scream at me for running a 15W-50, please understand I don't drive my car in in cold temps. Its literally never seen a real cold start and probably never will.

IMO, it isn’t needed unless you have bearing clearances that call for a 50 grade.

Originally Posted by Gallaticus

Does anyone have any positive or negative experiences using Amsoil in the 09 WRXs? I've always used Amsoil in all my vehicles and am a loyalist to the brand so I'd like to use it in the WRX but wanted to get some input on other people's experiences with it first. Thanks!

Use any Amsoil with an HTHS of 3.5 or higher.

[slow.wagon]

Originally Posted by bluesubie

IMO, it isn't needed unless you have bearing clearances that call for a 50 grade.

Yeah, I do need 50 for wedge stability, probably even a 60. When I assembled my motor I wanted the maximum safe clearances to increase oil leakage out of the bearings (yes, I did say leakage).

I've found that this approach keeps the oil temps lower when you put your foot into it for prolonged periods. The only trade off seems to be that you have to run a silly high viscosity and a better oil pump.

Anyhow, the HTHS of Mobile 1 15w-50 is 4.5. I guess that means its decent ? Anyone running this oil let me know if you know of any reasonable alternatives. Sometimes it is hard to get it locally.

[bluesubie]

Originally Posted by slow.wagon

Yeah, I do need 50 for wedge stability, probably even a 60. When I assembled my motor I wanted the maximum safe clearances to increase oil leakage out of the bearings (yes, I did say leakage).

I've found that this approach keeps the oil temps lower when you put your foot into it for prolonged periods. The only trade off seems to be that you have to run a silly high viscosity and a better oil pump.

Anyhow, the HTHS of Mobile 1 15w-50 is 4.5. I guess that means its decent ? Anyone running this oil let me know if you know of any reasonable alternatives. Sometimes it is hard to get it locally.

There was a guy back in the day at bobistheoilguy that ran M1 15W-50 in a stock Legacy GT. IIRC, the uoa was good but he reported some sluggishness. Maybe check the Built Motor forum for more experiences?

You might need to look into ordering Motul if you can’t find M1. Doesn’t IAG carry Motul? 300V 15W-50 has an HTHS of 5.3 so you should have slightly higher op with it. RL 15W-50 has an HTHS of 5.8 so even a bit higher op with that. Amsoil Dominator 15W-50 is 5.7 but it has less detergents than Red Line and 300V so you’d need to keep the intervals shorter.

[slow.wagon]

Originally Posted by bluesubie

There was a guy back in the day at bobistheoilguy that ran M1 15W-50 in a stock Legacy GT. IIRC, the uoa was good but he reported some sluggishness. Maybe check the Built Motor forum for more experiences?

You might need to look into ordering Motul if you can’t find M1. Doesn’t IAG carry Motul? 300V 15W-50 has an HTHS of 5.3 so you should have slightly higher op with it. RL 15W-50 has an HTHS of 5.8 so even a bit higher op with that. Amsoil Dominator 15W-50 is 5.7 but it has less detergents than Red Line and 300V so you’d need to keep the intervals shorter.

Wow, RL looks amazing! I've never bothered with that one because its online order only and it isn't cheap. Another person on a BMW forum recommended "LiquiMoly Synthoil Race Tech GT1 10W-60", but to be perfectly honest, I have never heard of that brand. There is mention of LiquiMoly in this thread but it looks the like guy that was talking about it was trolling so...gotta take his word with a grain of salt.

[bluesubie]

Liqui Moly is actually good oil and is popular in the German car world since it’s from Germany.

Castrol has a 10W-60 as well.

[slow.wagon]

Originally Posted by bluesubie

Liqui Moly is actually good oil and is popular in the German car world since it’s from Germany.

Castrol has a 10W-60 as well.

Ok, good to know. The LiquiMoly is at Napa so...perhaps we have a winner. Thanks a lot bluesubie, this might work out well for me.

[EngineHacker]

Originally Posted by slow.wagon

Ok, good to know. The LiquiMoly is at Napa so...perhaps we have a winner. Thanks a lot bluesubie, this might work out well for me.

Another convert. . And for the record, I wasn't trolling (assuming you were referring to me in your prior comment).

[fredrik94087]

Originally Posted by slow.wagon

Oil experts, what's your take on M1 15-50 ? I've always wondered what a decent alternative would be. Sometimes M1 15-50 gets kind of expensive or unavailable. Before you scream at me for running a 15W-50, please understand I don't drive my car in in cold temps. Its literally never seen a real cold start and probably never will.

I used redline 10w40 and Mobil1 15w50 in my 2015 wrx before I went with a built motor...and built motor was only for more power. Factory motor did not fail. Oil temps were only a few degrees warmer than 5w30 while cruising.

I started using RL and M1 once I hit stg2 with factory motor.

Currently using VR1 20w50 in built motor.

[open1your1eyes0]

It seems to be the general consensus from most places that Pennzoil Ultra Platinum is the best overall oil for daily use for most. But I'm highly concerned about carbon build-up and would like to do everything I can to help slow the process as much as possible.

Since Pennzoil Platinum is mentioned to have a lower NOACK rating over Pennzoil Ultra Platinum (however Ultra Platinum has increased levels of cleaning additives and higher TBN), I was considering preferring just the regular Platinum over the Ultra Platinum for the lower NOACK but maybe the extra cleaning additives and higher TBN would help even more so not so sure now.

What would you guys recommend is better for avoiding as much carbon as possible in this case (at least from simply choosing the right oil perspective)?

[Bigfx]

Hey everyone currently using Motul 5w30 x-clean efe about to change my oil but caught in a dilemma I have a 2018 sti and I live in dfw (summer temps typically in the 100's) so I know there has been a million threads about what to use but should I bump up to Motul 5w40 for the summer or maybe try Mobil 1 esp 5w30. The summers here are brutal and turbo charged engines take a beating out here and I'm looking to prolong the life of this car for a while (dream car) what would y'all suggest would a stout 5w30 work like Mobil 1 or should I for the summer bump up to 5w40. No controversy just opinions the car has 3000 miles culled factory fill @ 1000 looking to change this weekend

[Neebs]

Originally Posted by Bigfx

Hey everyone currently using Motul 5w30 x-clean efe about to change my oil but caught in a dilemma I have a 2018 sti and I live in dfw (summer temps typically in the 100's) so I know there has been a million threads about what to use but should I bump up to Motul 5w40 for the summer or maybe try Mobil 1 esp 5w30. The summers here are brutal and turbo charged engines take a beating out here and I'm looking to prolong the life of this car for a while (dream car) what would y'all suggest would a stout 5w30 work like Mobil 1 or should I for the summer bump up to 5w40. No controversy just opinions the car has 3000 miles culled factory fill @ 1000 looking to change this weekend

I'm in the same boat, but live in Arizona. My first oil change for my '18 and contemplating on switching from 5w-30 to 5w40 sticking with Motel 8100 X-cess, maybe Liqui Moly.

After reading oil threads and looking at the manual, it seems that running running 5w-40 can deny any warranty claims should something happen (don't know if they can test what grade oil you're using and depending on your dealer), yet they say to run a higher viscosity in hotter climate, which is a gray area in the manual.

If you're not worried about the warranty, then 5w-40, if you want to be compliant with Subaru then 5w-30, but I plan on running 5w-40 for the weather here and see how the car likes it. Also, you would want to focus more on specs rather than oil brand, which I narrowed down my choices with the exception of the grade used.

[bluesubie]

Motul X-clean meets similar specs as Mobil 1 ESP. Thicker viscosity at operating temp, minimum 3.5 HTHS, but low ZDDP.

I’d definitely move up to Motul X-cess 5W-40. There is also a X-clean 5W-40 but EJ’s do well with the higher ZDDP in X-cess.

As to the warranty, note that the manual has language that thicker viscosity is required in high temps. See page 11-15:

NOTE
Engine oil viscosity (thickness) affects fuel economy. Oils of lower viscosity provide better fuel economy. However, in hot weather, oil of higher viscosity is required to properly lubricate the engine.

https://stis.subaru.com/proxy/158683...05BSTIS_16.pdf

[gaz16]

This thread was very useful, thank you for taking the time to put the knowledge together and for sharing.

I just did an oil change to 5W-40 Castrol Edge in my 2016 WRX (iAG built block, KillerB GTX-3076R turbo kit, and a bunch of other stuff). I'll be changing at 3k miles and maybe I'll send a sample in.

With all this oil crap all over the web it's good to have a standard posted.

-A WRX Newbie

[get_schwifty]

This thread is amazing. I am going to have to read it several times over.

Based on what I've read here, in my area and for my driving style (plus how I do not need long drain intervals) it seems like a HD 30 grade makes sense when I change out the FF at perhaps around 3k miles, and Motul 8100 X-Clean 5w-30 seems like the best choice for a combination of protection + preservation of the warranty.

But it appears that there are multiple new X-Cleans (EFE, FE, +) and that the original X-Clean (C3) is being phased out. Motul's own website does not have a comparison tool for the four where different specs can be cross-compared side-by-side. Is there a website that would have this to help a noob like myself better compare the differences?

[bluesubie]

http://www.iwsti.com/#/topics/299906

https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forum...EF#Post4784224

The old X-clean but some comments about the different specs here:

https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forum...otul_X-Clean_5

[Pilot1226]

So, the new Subaru Ascent will run the 0w20 oil on the FA24DIT. There's a lot of issues around manufacturers using T4's instead of H6/V6/I6's, because apparently the T4's are very prone to LSPI.

What suggestions would you have for the FA24DIT? My gut tells me this will eventually replace the EZ36D in the Outback and Legacy. I don't know if they'll put it in the 'Rex and Foz XT (assuming the Foz has a Turbo option in the future, since it's gone now...)

[bluesubie]

Originally Posted by Pilot1226

So, the new Subaru Ascent will run the 0w20 oil on the FA24DIT. There's a lot of issues around manufacturers using T4's instead of H6/V6/I6's, because apparently the T4's are very prone to LSPI.



What suggestions would you have for the FA24DIT? My gut tells me this will eventually replace the EZ36D in the Outback and Legacy. I don't know if they'll put it in the 'Rex and Foz XT (assuming the Foz has a Turbo option in the future, since it's gone now...)

Whatever I said on bitog.

For someone really concerned about trying to find the right oil for a new engine, I would use the services of Terry Dyson at Dyson Analysis. Back in the day he regularly posted at bitog and gave his opinions about oils that were even sponsors of bitog (and probably why he doesn’t post there anymore).

When the Audi RS4 was shredding Audi spec oils he worked with Renewable Lubricants Inc to develop an oil that could handle that engine and outperform VW 502 oils. He also noticed and flagged high spikes in turbo Subaru bearing wear well before Subaru announced the stop sale back on the ‘08/‘09’s.

He’s expensive but you get what you pay for and RLI now has API certified oils. Not that you’d get anywhere with the question, but drop SoA a line and ask when they intend to reformulate their oils to help with LSPI as all other oil manufacturers are doing.

Keep in mind that Subaru Japan still allows high SAPS oils in DIT’s so they don’t seem to be too concerned. And generally speaking, even though it’s not a specced viscosity in the manual, a 5W-20 will have lower NOACK than a 0W-20. But I wouldn’t focus too much on one data point. Someone on bitog that seems to work for Castrol even mentioned that and he feels that it’s not solely calcium that contributes to LSPI.

[raisingAnarchy]

Originally Posted by bluesubie

Whatever I said on bitog.

For someone really concerned about trying to find the right oil for a new engine, I would use the services of Terry Dyson at Dyson Analysis. Back in the day he regularly posted at bitog and gave his opinions about oils that were even sponsors of bitog (and probably why he doesn’t post there anymore).

When the Audi RS4 was shredding Audi spec oils he worked with Renewable Lubricants Inc to develop an oil that could handle that engine and outperform VW 502 oils. He also noticed and flagged high spikes in turbo Subaru bearing wear well before Subaru announced the stop sale back on the ‘08/‘09’s.

He’s expensive but you get what you pay for and RLI now has API certified oils. Not that you’d get anywhere with the question, but drop SoA a line and ask when they intend to reformulate their oils to help with LSPI as all other oil manufacturers are doing.

Keep in mind that Subaru Japan still allows high SAPS oils in DIT’s so they don’t seem to be too concerned. And generally speaking, even though it’s not a specced viscosity in the manual, a 5W-20 will have lower NOACK than a 0W-20. But I wouldn’t focus too much on one data point. Someone on bitog that seems to work for Castrol even mentioned that and he feels that it’s not solely calcium that contributes to LSPI.

+1 for DysonAnalysis. I switched to RLI due to his recommendation to help combat some wear I was experiencing because of high water levels due to aftermarket CCV (IAG AOS) and a leaky oil pan seal. Just resealed the pan this week and will be getting another sample to him shortly to check how things are doing.