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Old 02-28-2018, 12:14 PM   #1
whiplash willy
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Default 2016 WRX Gloss Coat Round 2 (1.5 Years Later)

In June of 2016, about 2 weeks after I picked up my 2016 Subaru WRX Limited, I did a New Car Prep/Optimum Gloss Coat Application.

Here is a link to my thread:

https://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...tml?highlight=

After about 1.5 years, and 20k miles of Daily Driving, it was time to go through a full detail again, and re-apply Gloss Coat.

For the most part, the Original application of Gloss Coat held up pretty well. My Hood, Roof, Trunk and Front Fenders still retained the beading properties, however the lower Sides and Rear had completely lost their beading properties. Pretty much any part of the car that gets hit with Road Spray had lost its beading properties. I canít remember when exactly it happened, but it was sometime after the initial winter/rainy season. I had tried several things to restore the beading, but ultimately, nothing restored them:

-Several Washes with Carpro Reset (Had been using CG Mr Pink initially)
-Cleaned with OPC @ 1:3
-Optimum Ferrex, Carpro Ironx & Tarx
-Medium Clay
-Optimum Paint Prep
-Carpro Water Spot Remover & Optimum MDR

I was never able to determine if just the properties of the coating were gone, or if the coating was completely gone. The paint in those areas did still seem protected though. I am not sure if the problem was an issue with my prep/application, or if it stopped beading from normal use/road spray. It does seem to be a common issue with Ceramic Coatings, where the lower side and rear panels stop beading after winter time, and I am interested in finding out why.
This time around, I am hoping the entire car will retain its coating properties for atleast 1 Ė 1.5 years.
Here are the details on my prep/application:

1. I did a light engine bay cleaning with a garden hose and OPC 1:3.

2. Removed all 4 wheels, and cleaned the Fronts and backs of the wheels and tires with OPC 1:3. I also cleaned the wheel wells, Shocks & Calipers with OPC 1:3 and some brushes.

3. Did a Carpro Reset wash of the entire car. On the Side and Rear panels, that see the most road spray, I sprayed the panels first with OPC 1:3 let it dwell for a few min, then washed those areas.

4. I used Optimumís Ferrex on all painted surfaces, to make sure all iron particles were removed. I sprayed a section at a time, waited 2 min, then agitated it with a yellow foam sponge, let it set another min, then rinsed well. Surprisingly, I didnít see much purple bleeding, so there must have not been much iron on my paint.

5. I then followed it up with another Carpro Reset wash, to ensure I got any dirt/grime I may have missed, and to make sure none of the Ferrex remained on my paint. (Probably not necessary but I rather be safe)

6. I clayed the car with a Medium Grade Nanoskin Synthetic Clay Bar, using ONR at 1:64 as a Clay Lube

7. My paint was in pretty good condition still, so for most of the car I polished using my PC 7424, an Orange LC CCS Foam Pad, and Optimum Hyper Polish. This was for minor correction, and to remove the first Gloss Coat application. For some of the areas that needed more correction (light scratches) I used either an Orange or Yellow LC CCS Foam Pad, and Menzerna PO 91E, followed up with Hyper Polish on a LC White CCS foam pad. I removed the polish residue using microfiber rags that were soaking in ONR at 1:256. I rung them out, and removed the residue with one light wipe, then followed it up with a dry microfiber to remove the ONR. This process works really well!

8. I then used Optimum Paint Prep to make sure the surface was ready for the coating.

9. I applied the first Coat of Gloss Coat using the included Blue Sponge Applicator. Because my car is silver, and my lighting isnít the best, I canít see the coating going on, and it is very difficult to see it flashing. I use a slightly different application process then most, which wastes product, but to me that isnít an issue since I believe it insures coverage. I basically do a heavy application of the coating to the sponge, and add more product to the sponge in more frequent intervals. I waited about 3-5min for the section to flash (My garage temp was 40-50*F), then wiped the entire section lightly with a microfiber, to ensure there were no high spots. I have to apply it that way because I am basically applying it blind.

10. The next day, I used the same process to apply a 2[SUP]nd[/SUP] coat of Gloss Coat over the entire car.

11. About 1.5 days after I finished that 2[SUP]nd[/SUP] coat of GC, I had to start driving my car to work again. I knew the weather would be rainy, and the week I had off to do this detail, it had snowed so I knew there would be a lot of gravel, Mag Chloride and Salt on the roads (Yay Portland Or now uses salt on the roads, thanks ODOT and PBOT!) I want to wait 2-3 weeks before the first wash, to ensure the GC fully cures properly, so I applied a sacrificial coat of Opti-Seal to protect the Gloss Coat during this time.

So far, everything is looking good. I believe I got complete coverage of GC. I didnít get any high spots, and the brief rain it has seen, the water seems to bead properly. The true test/confirmation will be with my first wash, to see how the water reacts. I will post a follow up post to update how it goes, and try to get a water beading/sheeting video.

On a side note, I will never get a silver car again! I chose silver, because it is low-key, and doesnít draw a lot of attention. Also, I figured as a Daily Driver, that I only have time to wash every other week, it would appear to be clean longer then any other color. What really sucks about this color is that is very hard to see any kind of defects in the paint. They can only be seen in very specific lighting, and even then only at certain angles. This sucks when it comes to correcting, because it is very easy to miss defects, and hard to tell if you have removed them. It also makes you have to apply coatings ďBlindĒ since you canít see the coating going on or flashing. Also, no matter what you do, it will only just look OK, and never have the depth that any other color will have. You wonít see the defects, but you will know they are there, which I donít like.









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Old 02-28-2018, 12:40 PM   #2
That_Boosted_Life
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I've had a similar issue with my lower doors, rear quarters, and entire trunk and rear bumper stop beading. I applied my first coat in late august but noticed those areas starting to not bead as well and decided to coat the entire car again in early october as I had bought the 20cc syringe. The road salt around me seems to affect it most. I did hand wash two weeks ago and was able to get the water to sheet off the lower doors and rear of the car, but it no longer beads. Car must still be protected as it still looks glossy and was easy to wash the layered road salt on the car.

I did work on a 1'x1' section of lower door for a few minutes. Washing the spot 3 times. The first just to ensure it was clean, then the second and third time with added pressure. I was able to get it so somewhat bead when misting it with the hose, but it doesn't run off like it did when the coating was initially applied.
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Old 02-28-2018, 01:47 PM   #3
whiplash willy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by That_Boosted_Life View Post
I've had a similar issue with my lower doors, rear quarters, and entire trunk and rear bumper stop beading. I applied my first coat in late august but noticed those areas starting to not bead as well and decided to coat the entire car again in early october as I had bought the 20cc syringe. The road salt around me seems to affect it most. I did hand wash two weeks ago and was able to get the water to sheet off the lower doors and rear of the car, but it no longer beads. Car must still be protected as it still looks glossy and was easy to wash the layered road salt on the car.

I did work on a 1'x1' section of lower door for a few minutes. Washing the spot 3 times. The first just to ensure it was clean, then the second and third time with added pressure. I was able to get it so somewhat bead when misting it with the hose, but it doesn't run off like it did when the coating was initially applied.
My uneducated guess of what is happening is that "Road Film" is building up on these lower areas that see alot of road spray, and embedding into the coating. The coating is still there but the water properties/reactions are changed by the Road Film Coatings are supposed to resit contaminants, but aren't 100% immune. The problem with Road Film, is that washing and chemicals won't remove it all. It has to be removed by polishing, but that also will remove the coating.

Read this article on Road Film:

https://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...road-film.html

I know people are able to get multiple years out of their consumer grade and pro grade coatings, but I am not sure what techniques they use to maintain them, or maybe they don't experience as much road film as we do.
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Old 02-28-2018, 02:41 PM   #4
CGM_WRX
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Thanks for taking the time to do a detailed write up to share with us and linking to your original coating thread. I've been back and forth between one of the Gyeon products and Gloss Coat and think I am settled on Gloss Coat when it warms up a bit and I have a few days in a row to dedicate to the whole process.
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Old 02-28-2018, 04:02 PM   #5
whiplash willy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CGM_WRX View Post
Thanks for taking the time to do a detailed write up to share with us and linking to your original coating thread. I've been back and forth between one of the Gyeon products and Gloss Coat and think I am settled on Gloss Coat when it warms up a bit and I have a few days in a row to dedicate to the whole process.
No problem! That is great to hear you are looking into ceramic coatings. This is my 4th car with a coating, and ever since the first car I coated, I swore I would never own another car without a coating! They offer great protection against chemicals and micro/light scratches. It is nice to know you have a sacrificial top layer on your car that can be easily removed and reapplied if something bad happens to it. Plus, they make washing and maintenance so easy. Bugs, tar, bird poop come off so easy with just a couple of swipes with a towel and a quick detailer/waterless wash!

I think alot of people are turned off by coatings because they are afraid the application process is too difficult. Honestly, anyone who has basic polishing skills and understanding of detailing basics, should have no problems applying it. And once you have the process down, it isn't any harder then applying a wax or sealant. A little more prep is needed, but not much, and the longevity is way longer then any sealant or wax.

Here is a link to one of the only videos that clearly shows the process of applying Gloss Coat, and does a good job of showing how the product goes on, and flashes:


Here are a few tips I have learned over the last few years applying and maintaining my coatings:

1. Polishing is a very important step, even if your paint is free of defects, as it will remove stuff you can't see like road film and ect, that wasn't removed in the washing and decontaminating steps, that impact how your coating adheres to your clearcoat. It is important you use a polish that doesn't have any fillers, and doesn't leave anything behind, that could also impact how your coating adhears. I would recommend Optimums Hyper Compound/Hyper Polish as a 2 step polish, or Optimum's Intensive Polish as a 1 step.

2. Don't skimp on prep, and spend the $15 extra on Optimum's Paint Prep, as this is one of the most important steps.

3. Multiple Coats of Gloss Coat won't offer a thicker coating, and thus more protection. However applying 2 coats will ensure complete coverage, as the 2nd coat will fill in any spots you missed.

4. Try not to get the coating wet until atleast 2 days after you apply your gloss coat. You shouldn't wash it, or use harsh chemicals on it, for 2-3 weeks after application, to ensure it completely cures.

5. When washing, use a soap that doesn't have any wax or gloss enhancers, as they can effect the beading properties of the coatings. I use Carpro Reset on every wash, as it is designed for coatings, leaves nothing behind, and has good suds and deep cleaning properties. Optimum also just released a similar soap, designed specifically for their coatings. I haven't heard much about it, but I have been a fan of everything of theirs I have used, so I can't imagine it being at least as good as reset, if not better for their coatings.

http://opti-coat.net/opts/Opti-Coat%20maintenance/wash

6. Once the coating is fully cured, the only way to remove it is through polishing. Even a light polishing can remove it. If you have defects in the coating, you always want to try to remove them with chemicals first, otherwise, you will have to polish the entire panel, and re-apply it.

7. Waterspots can be a problem with coatings. At one point, my car got hit by a sprinkler and sat in the sun all day. It had bad waterspots allover the front and side of the car. I figured I would have to completely redo the coating on those panels. APC, Vinegar, and Claying didn't do anything against them. However I was able to remove them completely and easily without effecting the coating with Carpro Water Spot Remover. There are a few different chemical water spot removers out there. Some work on better on certain types of water spots then others. For Example, Optimum's MDR had no effect on them, where Carpro's completely removed them.

Here is a pic of my waterspots:


Anyways, I am not going to pretend like I am an expert, but have a decent hobbiest level of experience with Optimum's coatings, and have done a ton of internet research. If you have any questions, feel free to PM me and I would be happy to answer them if I can, or try and point you in the right direction. Good luck!
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Old 02-28-2018, 05:16 PM   #6
CGM_WRX
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Thanks for posting the video and sharing some tips you have learned along the way. I have watched almost all their videos. Another reason for me deciding on Gloss Coat is that I am luck enough to live literally right across the street from The Rag Company's HQ and they have all the OPT stuff in stock.
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Old 02-28-2018, 05:49 PM   #7
whiplash willy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CGM_WRX View Post
Thanks for posting the video and sharing some tips you have learned along the way. I have watched almost all their videos. Another reason for me deciding on Gloss Coat is that I am luck enough to live literally right across the street from The Rag Company's HQ and they have all the OPT stuff in stock.
No problem. Thats nice living by Rag Company! I ordered my last round of Optimum Stuff and Microfibers from them! Im a fan!
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Old 02-28-2018, 05:50 PM   #8
whiplash willy
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It has been raining all day today, so I snapped a few quick pics of the water beading. Also, when driving on the freeway this morning, pretty much every spec of water was removed from the car from the wind resistance! The hydrophobic properties of these coatings are the best!



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Old 03-02-2018, 11:03 AM   #9
cknowlen
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I spy a kegerator in the garage...someone is doin it right
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Old 03-02-2018, 12:00 PM   #10
whiplash willy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cknowlen View Post
I spy a kegerator in the garage...someone is doin it right
Yep, an old Beverage Air BM23, the thing is a beast! Beer and doing work in the garage always goes hand and hand!


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Old 03-06-2018, 07:58 AM   #11
cknowlen
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^^Love it! I built a bar in my basement (I will have to upload some pics) and it came out really nice. Kegco 199SS with a remote mounted tower (insulated lines with a tower cooler installed). You notice any benefit to having the Co2 stored inside vs outside the cooler? (sorry to take your thread in an opposite direction from detailing)
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Old 03-06-2018, 10:00 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by whiplash willy View Post
On a side note, I will never get a silver car again! I chose silver, because it is low-key, and doesnít draw a lot of attention. Also, I figured as a Daily Driver, that I only have time to wash every other week, it would appear to be clean longer then any other color. What really sucks about this color is that is very hard to see any kind of defects in the paint. They can only be seen in very specific lighting, and even then only at certain angles. This sucks when it comes to correcting, because it is very easy to miss defects, and hard to tell if you have removed them. It also makes you have to apply coatings ďBlindĒ since you canít see the coating going on or flashing. Also, no matter what you do, it will only just look OK, and never have the depth that any other color will have. You wonít see the defects, but you will know they are there, which I donít like.
Your words cut so deep!

I'm sitting here with my 3rd black car saying I'll never get it again because no matter how hard you try, the imperfections are always there and always visible.

Nice write-up though and great attention to detail with your work!
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Old 03-06-2018, 07:23 PM   #13
whiplash willy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cknowlen View Post
^^Love it! I built a bar in my basement (I will have to upload some pics) and it came out really nice. Kegco 199SS with a remote mounted tower (insulated lines with a tower cooler installed). You notice any benefit to having the Co2 stored inside vs outside the cooler? (sorry to take your thread in an opposite direction from detailing)
Nice! Sounds like a pretty nice setup! For the Co2, I don't think there is any difference between mounting the Co2 inside or outside the kegerator. It just depends if you rather have it take up space inside the kegrator, or rather have it sitting outside the kegerator. I suppose it would be easier to adjust the PSI outside.

In noticed the Kegco 199SS uses a cold plate to cool, which is just a metal plate in the back that gets cold, vs forced air system like my Beverage Air, which continuously circulates air the system. Before I got my BM23, I had converted an Sanyo Mini Fridge to a kegerator. It also used a Cold Plate to cool. I had problems with temperature issues with it, that I was able to overcome with a few mods.

1. I Added A computer fan at the bottom of the kegrator to help circulate air. Before this mod, the air temp at the top of the kegerator vs the bottom varied by 10*F. After that mod, the was only a 1-2*F difference. I am sure you know how important consistent temp is for draft beer, and that even a small variance can cause issues, especially with the first pour!

2. I added a powerful tower cooler, which it sounds like you have already done. Does your cooler keep the entire run to the remote tower cool?

3. I added a precise temperature controller/thermostat. I am not sure how accurate, and what the cycling behavior is in your Kegco, but my Sanyo, which wasn't designed for draft beer, had a terrible thermostat, which would allow for a 5-10*F Swing of temps before triggers the compressor. This gave me all sorts of consistency issues. I ended up adding a Johnson Control A419 temp controller, and installed the temp probe inside a glass of water in the kegerator. I then plugged the Sanyo into the controller, and set my target temp, with a variance of +/- 1*F, that way the temp would only fluctuate 1*F of the target temp.

With those 3 mods, it allowed me to get consistent results on the same level of a Forced Air Commercial Kegerator, using a Cold Plate based one. It wasn't pretty, and limited the internal space, but worked very well.



How is your setup working? I would like to see some pics if you have them!

Quote:
Originally Posted by raisingAnarchy View Post
Your words cut so deep!

I'm sitting here with my 3rd black car saying I'll never get it again because no matter how hard you try, the imperfections are always there and always visible.

Nice write-up though and great attention to detail with your work!
Thanks!
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Old 03-11-2018, 01:22 AM   #14
RexKwonDo
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I feel like my Crystal White Pearl is another color that makes it really challenging to find flaws/imperfections...almost like you have to have the exact right lighting and angle to see them. Luckily I think any flaws in my paint are pretty few and far between, but I feel like I'm going to have the same issues in terms of applying a coating "blind" when I do it in the spring.
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Old 03-13-2018, 04:13 PM   #15
whiplash willy
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So it has been a little over 2 weeks of DDing after finishing my Detail/Coating. I have been holding off on doing a normal/complete wash until after the 3rd week. I ended up doing a light ONR wash after the first week, because of the rain and grime from all of the gravel/sand ODOT and PBOT has put down, that I couldn't handle not removing.

I took a few quick pics of the car today when filling up, it has been raining all day, so I got some good pics of the beading/sheeting, which I am pretty happy with. Finally, my lower sides and rear bead again!






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Old 03-14-2018, 07:15 PM   #16
cknowlen
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Quote:
Originally Posted by whiplash willy View Post
How is your setup working? I would like to see some pics if you have them!
Here ya go!
Shot from the front

Draft tower (mind that head, i didnt run the tower cooler :P)

Behind the bar


Little extra space for those "select beers"
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Old 03-19-2018, 12:08 PM   #17
whiplash willy
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cknowlen, that is a nice setup you have!
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Old 03-19-2018, 12:14 PM   #18
whiplash willy
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I wanted to give an update on my results. I did the first wash on my coating this weekend. This is the 3rd week after I applied my coating. I needed to give it enough time for it to completely be cured before I did my first wash. This was the true test to confirm I had applied my coating properly.

Thankfully, everything looked great. The water sheeting and beading was great in all areas!

Here are a couple of videos that show the water beading/sheeting action:



Here are a couple of pics of the beading as well:









I am very pleased with how it all turned out!
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