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Old 08-28-2017, 08:08 PM   #251
KillerBMotorsport
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Originally Posted by mrsaturn7085 View Post
Maybe the design was just changed to prevent crushing during shipping?
I think it had more to do with making a part to fill the 'global platform' than anything else. Previous to 2006, they were changed every couple of years and at some points in time several variants existed. Around 2006, the same part number starts being used in virtually ever model car coming off the production lines. The economies of scale likely provided a lower cost to Subaru. Subaru also doesn't make their oil pickup, they source it from an OEM supplier that has agreed to meet a form, fit, and function. The failures are not a result of design, but poor process.
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Old 08-28-2017, 10:33 PM   #252
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The fact they added multiple manufacturing steps to cut and weld the boxed end leads me to believe it was done to fix something rather than save cost. They still stamping the same leg - just modifying it.

Are you sure these parts are outsourced? The part number coding doesn't match usual non-FHI manufacture parts.
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Old 08-29-2017, 07:02 AM   #253
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Originally Posted by mrsaturn7085 View Post
The fact they added multiple manufacturing steps to cut and weld the boxed end leads me to believe it was done to fix something rather than save cost.
I can get a close up later, but the boxed end is completely formed. There is no additional welding or process there. I've been out of the loop on stamping tool/die work for some time, but I'd wager a beer that both (and all pickup leg) version are made on a two-hit single die set.

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Are you sure these parts are outsourced?
Yes, absolutely.
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Old 08-29-2017, 02:52 PM   #254
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You're right - I tracked down one of the spares I've got and it is one-piece! I totally remembered it as a cut and weld job the last time I replaced the pan.

Not mine, but here's a reference shot:



I'm still doubtful that it is outsourced (outside of FHI). The part numbers for this often have an additional suffix. Given FHI owns a considerable portion of industry in Japan, it doesn't necessarily need to say Subaru to be manufactured by Subaru.
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Old 08-29-2017, 03:26 PM   #255
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You're right
I don't believe you

Quote:
Originally Posted by mrsaturn7085 View Post
I'm still doubtful that it is outsourced (outside of FHI).
OK, I will give you one hint... If you believe in conspiracy theories, it would lead you to believe why WIX oil filters have specs similar to OEM.
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Old 08-29-2017, 04:06 PM   #256
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Part number for the oil filter is 15208AA12A



Alternator = 23700AA5418A
Water Pump = X2111AA240
Radiator = X4511FE102
Subaru Cooling System Conditioner = Holt's RADweld

Most outsourced and private label parts I've come across have really weird part numbers before 2008. I don't often see this applied to electrical parts. After 2008, it's hit or miss. The RS&SP rally parts are a good example - they ended up with 'ZR' two letter coding after the competition parts were inserted into the standard part numbering system. My guess is there was a global harmonization effort around that time.

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I don't believe you
Better buy some lotto tickets today.

Last edited by mrsaturn7085; 08-29-2017 at 04:12 PM.
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Old 08-29-2017, 08:37 PM   #257
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I'm really considering the killer b oil pickup for my 2010 WRX with 30k miles.Do I need to purchase the killer b windage tray also?or will the killer b pickup fit just fine with whatever is in there already(oem)?could you post pictures of the oem style vs killer b windage?
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Old 08-29-2017, 08:58 PM   #258
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Just had the entire kit installed at 68k. Noticeable difference in Oil Pressure Consistency.

Saved my motor because stock pickup was forming a hairline crack when it was pulled.



Now time to run a oil temperature line to that second NPT fitting on the pan. I believe I will see reduced oil temps with the added volume in the pan.

Kudos to Killer B for the excellent Made in USA products. Dem welds

Last edited by Improbus; 08-29-2017 at 09:03 PM.
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Old 08-29-2017, 11:58 PM   #259
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blue sedan View Post
I'm really considering the killer b oil pickup for my 2010 WRX with 30k miles.Do I need to purchase the killer b windage tray also?or will the killer b pickup fit just fine with whatever is in there already(oem)?could you post pictures of the oem style vs killer b windage?
I have the killer b pickup, but left the stock tray. 2008 wrx.

On my new built motor, I stayed with the stock tray also...(daily driver-I don't track the car, otherwise I'd have the killer b tray)
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Old 08-30-2017, 12:55 PM   #260
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Did this recently on my 06STi along with a HKS el header while I was there.
I found a piece of metal in the pickup! Between screen and outer lip. It was about 1/2" X 1/4" in size. Looked at the stock pickup and baffle but couldn't find where it came from. Stock engine since new. Scary since I don't have a an oil pressure gauge but without a doubt when I upgrade the turbo it would have caused a problem.

This pickup saved my engine in more ways than one!!
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Old 08-30-2017, 01:25 PM   #261
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Default Installed Killer B Oil Pickup tube today... Thank god!

If that piece appears to have been sheet metal, look closely at the slosh panels inside the oil pan. I bet you're missing one of the tabs connecting to the oil Ian wall. I experienced that. Sort of hard to spot on a glance since it's all painted black in there.
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Old 08-30-2017, 04:20 PM   #262
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Quote:
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If that piece appears to have been sheet metal, look closely at the slosh panels inside the oil pan. I bet you're missing one of the tabs connecting to the oil Ian wall. I experienced that. Sort of hard to spot on a glance since it's all painted black in there.
Oh could be! I didn't look that closely at the pan. It is black stamped steel ( the piece).
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Old 08-30-2017, 10:27 PM   #263
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well i got everything off, and honestly after getting the putty knife thru in as many places as you can, i found just beating on the damn thing with a mallet and keeping pressure on one side got it to pop off nice and clean.
all in all easy job and well worth it as my pickup also has what looks to be a hairline crack up at the neck, i was going to pressure test it at work for ****s and giggles.
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Old 09-01-2017, 06:44 PM   #264
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Originally Posted by rubmetoasty View Post
well i got everything off, and honestly after getting the putty knife thru in as many places as you can, i found just beating on the damn thing with a mallet and keeping pressure on one side got it to pop off nice and clean.
all in all easy job and well worth it as my pickup also has what looks to be a hairline crack up at the neck, i was going to pressure test it at work for ****s and giggles.
Good that you got it installed .I just ordered a Killer b pickup and will be installing soon.Hope all goes well...
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Old 09-05-2017, 07:23 AM   #265
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KillerBMotorsport View Post
All EJ Series motors are known to have this failure. The older ones tend to fail with higher mileage vs. the newer style. From 2006 to current year every EJ motor has the exact same pickup; Impreza, Legacy, Forester....
Old thread, not sure how I even found it. I didn't even know this was a possible issue... with all of the ringland talk ALL the time everywhere this surprises me that it's not out there more.

I have an 05' STi. Is 2005 exempt from this since you are saying 2006 to present? I thought 04' and up all used the ej motor but wanted to make sure first.

STi sits in the garage most of it's life now, but has around 84k miles on it. I'm doing work to it now so might be picking this up. I'm wondering though what the condition of the stock unit is...?

Thanks,
-Nigel
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Old 09-05-2017, 12:44 PM   #266
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2006+ still uses a brazed connection that can fail, but chances are very low (as they always have been). That being said, if you've got the oil pan off and are considering it, now would be the time.
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Old 09-05-2017, 12:55 PM   #267
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Quote:
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but chances are very low
I had a customer of mine from many years ago put it well... "The chance of pickup failure is extremely low and insignificant, until it happens to me."
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Old 09-11-2017, 08:38 PM   #268
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I did a a hybrid swap into my 04 WRX and upon pan removal of the tired old 250k mile 2.0l pan I found a hairline crack on the factory pickup tube this is her original motor so some seem to outlive others but man its like a ticking clock of when not if and not one that I want to continue on the new motor fitment was great good price for what you get only down side is you cant look at it once the parts installed I almost want a second just to look at!
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Old 09-13-2017, 07:20 AM   #269
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Installed Killer B pickup over the weekend and found no cracks on OEM tube.
.Thanks Killer B for well built product ..
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Old 09-18-2017, 08:50 PM   #270
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just thought id follow up. I was able to pressure test the pickup today, i didnt put it to excessive pressure, but could see a tiny pinhole leak around the bottom section that houses the screen, right where the neck is it was a small pinhole leak. What i thought was a crack up on the top side was just cosmetic.
Still glad i changed it.
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Old 01-12-2018, 02:23 AM   #271
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I finally got around and finished this along with the killer B baffle. Had so many other projects it just sat. I now feel like I should have replaced the oil pan in the STi for the killer b but it's done and I'm not removing the pan again. Those back 4 bolts are a rotal PITA x10.

My stock oil pickup tube was 100%. No cracks no wear, no stress fractures...etc. I was really hoping that there would be some sort of failure just for the amount of work that was involved for installing the new oil pickup.

I guess my 05' STi's was just lucky. None the less I like now having the knowledge that I won't have to worry about the "what if" on the oem pick up tube.

VERY quality part no doubt. Such a nicely built part that no one will ever see :-(

I do have one question on the design. I noticed that the OEM pick up tube had an extended part that goes up into the pan that bolts into, where as the killer b one only has an oring and then is bolted in. Is there a reason for this?

I used Permatex 51813 Anaerobic Gasket Maker for the pan.

-Nigel
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Old 01-12-2018, 06:15 AM   #272
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I do have one question on the design. I noticed that the OEM pick up tube had an extended part that goes up into the pan that bolts into, where as the killer b one only has an oring and then is bolted in. Is there a reason for this?

-Nigel
Hi Nigel, thanks so much for using our product and the kind words!

The OEM pickup tube's tube is swaged down and pushed through the flange. This height varies significantly along with the height of the OEM pickup in general, but it makes for very fast production, especially with the batch brazing process they use. Since we use a machined flange (OEM is stamped) we can only create a protruding lip so high before it starts to get price prohibitive. There is a lip on the top and it does protrude into the block some, just not nearly to the extent that the OEM does. It does the job just the same, since the o-ring is what provides the actual seal.
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Old 01-29-2018, 06:41 PM   #273
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Awesome! Thanks for the clarity!

One last question the oring that is on the oil pick up tube... will that ever have to be replaced or checked? Again just looking from the stand point that I don't want to do this again..hahah

I replaced all factory orings with new at the dip stikc double) and on the oil pan as well.

Thanks,
-Nigel
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Old 01-30-2018, 06:41 AM   #274
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One last question the oring that is on the oil pick up tube... will that ever have to be replaced or checked?
Hi Nigel, thanks for using our product!

We use MIL-Spec o-rings. They have improved specs (temp range, chemical resistivity, etc...) over the OEM o-rings so I see no reason why you'd ever need to change out that o-ring.
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