I***8217;m guessing that the diffs on the track don***8217;t mean that much better for STI vs WRX, on a dry track......,,,,wet track or low grip surface like gravel or a dirt road maybe more of a difference.

I agree and that is in the plans as well. My thought is that the coilovers will allow me to run more negative camber (hoping to get close to -3.5) in the front since it is limited by the spring perch hitting the inner fender well on the stock struts. Ill be combining that with a roll center kit as well. I'm still undecided on a fr sway just due to the info on this thread. Almost seems like Subaru got it right the first time, imo, but I haven't tried one myself so who knows for sure. Maybe run a smaller front bar and rely on the roll center kit to help prevent roll?

There's two things going on with coilovers vs "big springs" as far as more negative camber is concerned - spring to tower clearance and lowering. I think we need to separate them. This is mainly a MacPherson/Chapman strut matter.

That coilovers give you more room for negative camber is not only good from a static camber point of view; it also puts the geometry such that camber gain in bump / camber recovery in roll improves slightly.

But whether with coilovers or "lowering springs", lowering works the other way, with camber gain in bump (from the new static ride height) decreasing. I have a feeling that so many people whose cars have strut suspensions run such large negative camber values is at least partly tied to this effect as well as to a lack of roll center correction.

OE bumpsteer tends to get hosed with roll center correction, so RC correction is reason in and of itself to plan on doing bumpsteer correction as well.


Norm

Whiteline sells a roll center and bump steer correction kit. Would you recommend that? Or another brand?

And at what did height drop would you recommend these corrections?

Those correction kits are not legal until SM, and once in SM there are much better ways to adjust the geometry FWIW

Oh OK I didn't know that it wasn't SP legal, guess I won't be going that route. I assume by better you also mean much more expensive?

Doing my first AutoX event this weekend in my 2017 WRX. Can't wait to see how it handles. Was great to see some feedback from others

Does anyone know if the 2020 wrx requires tire pressure sensors to allow you to turn off the nannies?

Maybe 2020 is too new and unknown. So how about the 2018+ last refresh? Are tire pressure sensors needed to turn off the nannies? I'm guessing you can only have one set programmed to the car at a time?

All I can find in the 2019 Owner Manual is this.

While it doesn't say anything about TPMS, as far as I've been able to determine turning VDC off can still be accomplished even with a set of non TPMS-equipped wheels/tires.


Norm

I run Autocross a lot with a 2018 WRX. I run aftermarket wheels without tpms sensors...there's no issue turning off traction control and vector control. (Anti-lock cannot be disabled)


One time (out of dozens) when I reinstalled the OEM wheels with tpms sensors the car forgot...dealer reset was covered under warranty.

Thanks so much for the info, very helpful!

Well, I finally finished reading this entire thread. Very informative.

Does anyone have suggestions for modifying the suspension on a 2019 WRX? Mine is bone stock and I want to start taking my car to the local road course (black hawk farms). My cars a daily driver so slamming it to the floor isn’t an option right now. The car seems to understeer a bit right now on the stock set up which i suspect is Subaru’s intent.

For really cheap you could try running the tire pressure stagger the other way around . . . say, a couple more psi out back than up front instead of Subaru's 33/32. Feels like that takes out some of the on-throttle understeer on corner exit. It's a mild enough change that you can try it out on the street.


Norm

This is a fun kit, if you're looking for good bang for your buck:
https://www.rallysportdirect.com/par...kit-w-endlinks

I'm on those, plus Swift springs and the Whiteline antilift kit. Bilstein shocks at some point next year. My car is setup as a DD, too.

That being said. You want most bang for your buck, i think most folks will say to start with good tires. Michelin PS4's are pretty darn fantastic.

I too was looking at whitelines or superpro's roll center kit for my 2020 Wrx. What are these better ways to adjust the geometry that you speak of? Especially if a roll center kit pushes you into sm.

If you care about SCCA DS rules or just want to keep it simpler, Bilstein GTWorx shocks are awesome. My 16 WRX finished 4th at SCCA Solo Nationals with these shocks and stock springs, sway bars, etc. The shocks are also designed for use with RCE springs if you want to lower or aren***8217;t interested in a stock class.
I just sold my car and happen to have a set FS $550.

Thanks for the help. That white line set up looks good. The local track by me hosts all kinds of clubs and events. But I was just looking at doing what they call track days. It’s basically a non race type deal where you just try to beat your own times. I’ll check out those tires too. I’m still on the stock ones for now and they’ve got some life left.

I’m not planning on getting too crazy with it just yet. Wanna try a track day to see if I enjoy it. My car is a daily so I’m not gonna lower it just yet. I’m working on a plan to get a new daily so the WRX can become more of a Sunday driver then I can go nuts with mods lol. This is the track by me. https://blackhawkfarms.com/shop-on-line/11831-2/

There's absolutely no reason you must lower your car when you swap the OE shocks and struts out for dampers with higher performance intent. Not even for HPDE. Just the improved composure coming from better damping will be worth more in the beginning than either lowering or increased spring stiffnesses, anyway. Dampers, and maybe a bit more wheel and tire, is easily enough to see you up to at least Intermediate level. HPDE is really about the driver anyway.

The time to start considering stiffer springs should maybe be after you've gained enough experience to where you can spare enough mental energy to start paying attention to things like nose dive under braking clearly becoming an annoyance. Without it getting in the way of your driving at speed and timing. And even then, you don't have to lower your car any more than minimally. Especially if it's even trying to remain a "dual-purpose" kind of car.

It won't look as "racy", but factory suspension geometries really aren't all that bad. My occasional-track-day Mustang is only lowered half an inch up front and maybe half that out back. But here's a screenshot from a track day video when it was still on its OE springs showing that OE springs aren't nearly as limiting as many people seem to think (in fairness, I had done Koni yellow dampers, wider tires on wider wheels and a couple other things, though).




Norm

My car wasn’t lowered. All stock except shocks an alignment with 200 TW tires. Definitely nothing crazy.
SCCA and Tristate Sports car club have great track events at the Autobahn in Joliet, Il. They really take care of rookies in a safe track environ.

I may have to check out the SCCA then. You’re not the first person I’ve known to say to say good things about them. Thanks.